FishCare

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Venustus Hap ( Giraffe Cichlid, Giraffe Haplochromis, Kalingo )

The Venustus Nimbochromis venustus (previously Haplochromis venustus) is a popular aquarium cichlid. This is a big fish that can grow close to 10 inches in the aquarium. The impressive size along with its interesting behavior and handsome color pattern make it a favorite among cichlid lovers. This cichlid makes a fabulous display specimen for a large show tank. Wild caught specimens are quite rare, but captive bred specimens are commonly available due to commercial breeding. This fish has a yellow body covered with blotches of brown and males develop an attractive blue face and head as they mature. it is also known as the Venustus Cichlid, Venustus Hap, and Kalingo. But its blotches, resembling the coat pattern of a giraffe, have led to the descriptive common names of Giraffe Cichlid, Giraffe Haplochromis, or simply Giraffe Hap. This is a very clever cichlid, a trait found in all the cichlids in the Nimbochromis genus. These cichlids are different from the Mbuna cichlids, in the way that they prefer open swimming areas where the rocks meet the sand. The members of this genus are all very smart, stealthy predatory fish, but each has its own distinctive technique. The Venustus Cichlid is an ambush predator that will partially bury itself in the sand. It will then hold very still, for up to several minutes, waiting for an unsuspecting small fish to swim by. When an unwary smaller fish comes to "taste" the "dead" fish, the Venustus jumps to life. Once its prey is within reach, it will quickly dart out of the sand to snatch it. It will even lay in wait near a cave where there are young juvenile fish. A slightly different ambushing technique is employed by its close relative, the Livingstoni Cichlid N. livingstonii. This cichlid will actually lie flat on its side on the sand in areas next to rocks where small fish travel. When the prey swims over its head, it will instantly grab it using a sideways motion of its head and mouth. Still another example is the Elephant Nosed Cichlid N. linni which will rest with its chin on the rocks just above a hideout of small fish, remaining motionless waiting for the small prey to venture out. Then he quickly extends his highly protusable mouth and sucks the prey up. The Venustus is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. It is generally easy to care for as long as the aquarist realizes their predatory nature and need for a lot of space. They are not as demanding as far as water quality compared to most cichlids. But they do need to be fed properly to avoid Malawi bloat. A sand substrate will make them feel most at home. Provide some hiding places with rock structures and wood, but its best to place them towards the back of the aquarium, leaving plenty of open space for swimming. Plants can be added as well because even though these fish will burrow, they don't disturb them. These are moderately aggressive cichlids. They will do best in a species specific tank or with other cichlids. Try and keep the different species blood lines pure. Do not mix with these fish with the overactive and aggressive Mbunas. A minimum of 125 gallons is need for one male and several females since spawning males are aggressive. During spawning their color display rivals saltwater fish in its intensity and beauty. If another male from the Nimbochromis genus is also kept in the aquarium, the Venustus will still keep its bright spawning colors. For Information on keeping freshwater fish, see: Freshwater Aquarium Guide: Aquarium Setup and Care

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Cichlidae Genus: Nimbochromis Species: venustus

Quick Aquarium Care

Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) Temperament: Semi-aggressive Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C)

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Venustus Nimbochromis venustus was described by Boulenger in 1908. It was originally called Haplochromis venustus but was reclassified to Nimbochromis venustus in 1989. They occur in the Africa rift lake area and are endemic to Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe. Other common names it is known by include Venustus Cichlid, Venustus Hap, Kalingo, Giraffe Cichlid, Giraffe Haplochromis, and Giraffe Hap. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). It is endemic to Lake Malawi and Lake Malombe and is widespread throughout both lakes. There is a possible population decline in the southern part of Lake Malawi thought to be related to trawl fishing in that area, but there are no other recognized threats at present. Adults are mostly found over areas of sandy substrate at depths depth between 49 - 65 feet (15 - 20 m) . Juveniles are found in shallow waters near rocks and swimming in schools. They feed on small fish and invertebrates. They use an ambush technique of partially burying themselves it the sand to catch unaware small fish prey as they swim near. Scientific Name: Nimbochromis venustus Social Grouping: Groups - As juveniles they are seen in schools. IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

Description

The Venustus is a good sized cichlid with a stocky elongated body and a large mouth. They reach up to about 10 inches (25 cm) in length, and sometimes grow a bit bigger in the aquarium. This fish has a life span of up to 10 years. The male can range from a solid gold with a blue face or be all blue. But all will have the "giraffe" patterning faded in the background and a yellow to tan stripe starting at the nose and running along the top of the dorsal. Females and juveniles are a lighter beige coloring with the brownish "giraffe" spotting being more pronounced. The female has a hint of gold on the head area, an anal fin that is yellow on the bottom half and a tail fin that is clear on top and yellow on the bottom half. Her dorsal fin is tipped in a lighter color too. The juvenile looks the same as the female but their background is a little lighter, almost a silver white color. All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming. Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related. Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) - They grows to a length of 9.84" (25 cm) in the wild, but are sometimes larger in home aquaria. Lifespan: 10 years - They have a lifespan of about 10 years with proper care.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

This is a good fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. It is an fairly aggressive cichlid, and not a community tank specimen. It cannot kept with fish other than cichlids. The aquarists must be willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates. It is susceptible to Malawi bloat as well as the typical diseases that effect all freshwater fish if the tank is not maintained. In the proper setup it will easily adapt to prepared foods, breed readily, and the juveniles are easy to raise as well. Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Foods and Feeding

The Venustus are omnivorous, but in the wild they habitually feed on fish so can be considered a piscivore. In the aquarium they do best with a high protein diet. They can be fed live or frozen food, freeze dried krill, pellets, and other high quality foods for piscivores. Occasionally feed mysis and feeder fish, though feeder fish can initiate hunting instincts and cause more aggression. They need herbivorous foods as well to balance out their diet. Young up to 3 to 4" can be fed flake, but after that flake is too messy and will foul the water. Adults do best when fed frozen foods twice a week. They will eat to the point of their stomach being distended, so be very careful to not overfeed. Diet Type: Omnivore - This fish is a predatory piscivore, meaning it stalks and eats small fish, but it will eat some vegetable foods on occasion too. Flake Food: Occasionally - Flakes work fine for juveniles to about 3-4", but then become too messy for the tank. Tablet / Pellet: Yes Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet Vegetable Food: Some of Diet Meaty Food: Most of Diet Feeding Frequency: Daily - Juveniles can be fed daily, but as adults 2 - 3 feedings a week are fine.

Aquarium Care

Malawi Cichlids will deteriorate under poor water conditions. Water changes of 10% to 20% a week depending on bioload. Malawi bloat is a typical disease especially if over fed and there is a lack of some herbivorous foods that are high quality. Water Changes: Weekly - Water changes of 10-20% weekly are suggested, depending on the bio load.

Aquarium Setup

The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish. Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. A minimum 70 gallon tank will work when small, but because they grow quickly and have an aggressive nature, 125 gallons is suggested. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Poor water quality will ruin their eyes. Keeping the ph above neutral is important. They can tolerate any Ph above neutral, but a ph level of 8 is best. A sand substrate will make them feel most at home. Adding some crushed coral used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up. However if you use a rough substrate, they will be scratched up due to their nature of burying themselves. Crushed coral or aragonite sands do tend to dissolve easier than salts. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish. Open space is a must for the Venustus. There can be some rock work and wood that is placed towards the back of the aquarium to provide a lot of holes for hiding places. Most importantly there needs to be a lot of swimming areas along the middle and bottom of the tank. They like to dig so make sure the rocks sit on the bottom of the aquarium not on the substrate. They will spawn using a pit close to a rock. Plants can be added as well because even though these fish will burrow, they don't disturb them. They will eat the leaves of some freshwater plants, but will not eat the more sturdy plants. They also tend to dig, so the plants need to be anchored. Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) - Juveniles can be kept in a 70 gallon tank, but for adults 125 gallons is suggested. Suitable for Nano Tank: No Substrate Type: Sand Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C) Range ph: 7.7-8.6 - Venustus can tolerate a ph that's just above 7.0, but prefer 8.0 or higher. Hardness Range: 6 - 10 dGH Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. Water Movement: Moderate Water Region: Middle - These fish will swim in the middle and bottom areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors

The Venustus Cichlid is not considered to be a community fish. They are voracious predators, but they are only moderately aggressive accept when spawning. They do best in a species specific tank or with other cichlids. Some aquarists report severe aggressiveness, which could be due to inadequate housing. They should not be kept with Mbunas (smaller rock dwelling cichlids). Some have put them with others of there same genus, though in very large systems to promote the spawning colors. The Venustus is best kept in groups of one male and several females. They will shoal together if there are quite a few (6 to 8 adults in 125 gallons). They will attack and kill any other males of the same species in the tank unless the tank is large. If overstocking is used as a form of aggression reduction, care should be taken to do several partial water changes a week. Do not put this fish with peaceful cichlids. Temperament: Semi-aggressive - Although they are voracious predators, if the tank is large enough they are only moderately aggressive accept when spawning. Compatible with: Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are best kept in groups of 1 male with several females. The male will attack and kill another male unless the tank is very large. If there are 6-8 adults they will shoal together. Peaceful fish (): Threat Semi-Aggressive (): Safe Aggressive (): Monitor Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive Plants: Monitor

Sex: Sexual differences

Male Venustus Males have brighter blue or yellow coloring with muted patterning, and females are blander in color with more pronounced patterning.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Venustus is polygamous in nature with a male attending several females, and they form a matriarchal family. This cichlid has been bred in captivity. It is suggested to get a group of six to eight juveniles and let them grow up together. They like a flat stone or slate to lay their eggs. Make sure this breeding site is not near a strong water flow since the eggs are externally fertilized. Being a mouth brooder the female will pick up the eggs into her mouth for incubation. She will carry 60 to 120 eggs for over a month, and will allow the hatched fry to hide in her mouth for up to 10 days, after which they are on their own. If the tank is very "busy" she may let the eggs go too soon, so you may have to strip her of all eggs a few days after spawning and incubate them for around 13 days. On her own, she will hold them in her mouth for about 2 weeks. This would be a good time to take them out of the tank as the male has no qualms about eating his children! The fry can eat cyclopeeze and finely crushed flake. They will color up like the female in a short time and grow quickly. In a species specific tank, adding a young male is asking for trouble, though in a mixed tank, you can sometimes get away with more than one subordinate male. Ease of Breeding: Easy

Fish Diseases

Malawi bloat is a typical disease for the Venustus Cichlid, especially if their dietary needs are not met with quality foods. They are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. One common problem is Ich. It can be treated with the elevation of the tank temperature to 86° F (30° C) for 3 days. If that does not cure the Ich, then the fish needs to be treated with copper (remove any water conditioners). Several copper based fish medications are available for Ich. Copper use must be kept within the proper levels, so be sure to follow the manufacturers suggestions. A copper test also can be used to keep the proper levels. You can also combine increasing the temperature with an Ich medication treatment. As with most fish they are susceptible to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

Availability

Venustus Cichlids are usually found online and are moderately priced, but prices vary depending on whether they are male, female, or juvenile. They are usually found in fish stores, though may be special ordered if you are willing to wait for them if they are out of season. Read the full article

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Livingstoni Cichlid (Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, Livingstonii)

The Livingstoni Nimbochromis livingstonii (previously Haplochromis livingstonii) is a large handsome cichlid. This fish can reach close to 10 inches (25 cm) in length. Its color pattern is highly contrasting, with prominent dark blotches on a yellow, silver, or bluish background. There is also a "star" pattern to the eye, created by 4 lines dark lines radiating outward. This provides an excellent camouflage for it in its natural habitat, where it swims among plants and preys on smaller fishes. Other names it is known by include Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, and Livingstonii. The impressive size along with its interesting behavior and handsome color pattern make this a very interesting aquarium inhabitant. The German name for the Livingstoni Cichlid is the 'Sleeper'. This term originated from its unusual predatory behavior of 'playing dead'. This cichlid will stay on the bottom of the aquarium, lying flat on its side for long periods of time. When smaller fish approach as if to nibble at the dead carcass, they are captured with a lightning quick lunge. It will instantly grab it using a sideways motion of its head and mouth.

Playing Dead This ambushing tactic is a very clever trait found in all the cichlids in the Nimbochromis genus. These cichlids are different from the Mbuna cichlids in the way that they prefer open swimming areas where the rocks meet the sand. The members of this genus are all very smart, stealthy predatory fish, but each has its own distinctive technique. An interesting example is the Elephant Nosed Cichlid N. linni. It will rest with its chin on the rocks just above a hideout of small fish, remaining motionless waiting for the small prey to venture out. Then he quickly extends his highly protusable mouth and sucks the prey up. A slightly different ambushing technique is employed its close relative, the Venustus Cichlid N. venustus. This cichlid will partially bury itself in the sand. Then it will then hold very still waiting for an unsuspecting small fish to swim by. Once its prey is within reach, it will quickly dart out of the sand to snatch it. The Livingstoni Cichlid is very similar in appearance to the Venustus Cichlid, but is not quite as colorful as it lacks the blue coloration seen on the head of Venustus. It has also often been confused with the Polystigma Cichlid, N. polystigma, which is very similar as it also has the large blotches. However the Polystigma Cichlid has many small dots all over its body as well, which are missing in the Livingstoni. This is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced aquarists. It is not a community fish but makes an impressive display in a large cichlid aquarium. Although it is very aggressive as a predator, it is a fairly peaceful among its own kind. They have a "harem polygyny" nature where males maintain a territory with several females, so it is best to keep one male with at least three females. Do not mix them with the overactive and aggressive Mbunas. This cichlid is generally easy to care for as long as the aquarist realizes their predatory nature and need for a lot of space. A minimum of 70 gallons is okay when small, but because they grow quickly and have a predatory nature, 125 gallons or more is suggested for adults. They are not as demanding as far as water quality compared to most cichlids, but they do need to be fed properly to avoid Malawi bloat. A sand substrate will make them feel most at home. Make sure there are lots of hiding places in rocks and wood. They need some open areas in which to swim so its best to place the decor towards the back of the aquarium. They also like lots of plants, such as Vallisneria, which creates a more natural environment for them. Even though these fish will burrow, they don't disturb them. For Information on keeping freshwater fish, see: Freshwater Aquarium Guide: Aquarium Setup and Care

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Cichlidae Genus: Nimbochromis Species: b

Livingstoni Cichlid - Quick Aquarium Care

Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) Temperament: Semi-aggressive Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C)

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Livingstoni Nimbochromis livingstonii was described by G{uuml}nther in 1894. This is one of the original Haplochromis group and was previously described as Haplochromis livingstonii. It occurs in the Africa rift lake area and is endemic to Lake Malawi, Lake Malombe, and the upper Shire River. Other common names it is known by are Livingston's Cichlid, Livingston's Hap, and Livingstonii. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). It is endemic to Lake Malawi, Lake Malombe, and the upper Shire and is very widespread. There is a possible population decline in the southern part of Lake Malawi thought to be related to trawl fishing in that area, but there are no other recognized threats at present. They are found in all kinds of habitats from shallow lakeshores down to depths of 374 feet (114 m). They are most common in vegetated sheltered bays swimming among Vallisneria plants. They are usually solitary and territorial, and feed on small fish and invertebrates. They use an ambush technique of lying flat on the sand waiting for small fish to swim over it. Then quickly, using a sideways motion of its head and mouth, it will snatch the unaware prey. Scientific Name: Nimbochromis livingstonii Social Grouping: Solitary IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

Description

The Livingstoni is a good sized cichlid with a stocky, elongated body and a large mouth. They reach up to about 10 inches (25 cm) in length. They have an interesting color patterning provides a good camouflage for them in their natural habitat, where they swim among plants and prey on smaller fishes. The body can range from silvery, yellowish or blue, but with a highly contrasting black blotched patterning. The blotches are connected in a random manner both horizontally and vertically. They eye has four dark bold stripes radiating outward. The dorsal fin can have some blue with an orange to red band, and sometimes a white line. There are faint spots on the pectoral fins and the anal fin is usually orange to red. The males have an egg shaped pattern on the anal fin and can have some blue on the forehead. Females are similarly patterned, but less colorful and without the egg spot or the blue forehead. Juveniles have a white and brown spotted patterning. This fish has a life span of up to 10 years. All cichlids share a common feature that some saltwater fish such as wrasses and parrotfish have and that is a well-developed pharyngeal set of teeth that are in the throat, along with their regular teeth. Cichlids have spiny rays in the back parts of the anal, dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins to help discourage predators. The front part of these fins are soft and perfect for precise positions and effortless movements in the water as opposed to fast swimming. Cichlids have one nostril on each side while other fish have 2 sets. To sense "smells" in the water, they suck water in and expel the water right back out after being "sampled" for a short or longer time, depending on how much the cichlid needs to "smell" the water. This feature is shared by saltwater damselfish and cichlids are thought to be closely related. Size of fish - inches: 9.8 inches (24.99 cm) Lifespan: 10 years - They have a lifespan of about 10 years with proper care.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

This is a great fish for both the intermediate and experienced cichlid keeper. Although it is highly predatory in nature, it is one of the more peaceful cichlids with its own kind. It needs a good sized aquarium and the aquarists must be willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates, In the proper setup it will easily adapt and readily accept prepared foods. Aquarium Hardiness: Moderately hardy Aquarist Experience Level: Intermediate

Foods and Feeding

The Livingstoni are omnivorous, but in the wild they habitually feed on fish so can be considered a piscivore. In the aquarium they do best with a high protein diet, so can be fed live or frozen food, freeze dried krill, pellets, and other high quality foods for piscivores. Occasionally feed mysis shrimps and feeder fish, though feeder fish can initiate hunting instincts and cause more aggression. They need some herbivorous foods as well to balance out their diet. Young up to 3 to 4" can be fed flake, but after that flake is too messy and will foul the water. Adults do best when fed frozen foods twice a week. They will eat to the point of their stomach being distended, so be very careful to not overfeed. Diet Type: Omnivore - This fish is primarily a predatory piscivore, though it will eat some vegetable foods on occasion. Flake Food: Yes - Flakes work fine for juveniles until they reach about 3-4", but then they become too messy for the tank. Tablet / Pellet: Yes Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet Vegetable Food: Some of Diet Meaty Food: Most of Diet Feeding Frequency: Daily - Juveniles can be fed daily, but as adults 2 - 3 feedings a week are fine.

Aquarium Care

Malawi Cichlids will deteriorate under poor water conditions. Water changes of 10% to 20% a week depending on bioload. Malawi bloat is a typical disease especially if over fed and there is a lack of some herbivorous foods that are high quality Water Changes: Weekly - Water changes of 10-20% weekly are suggested, depending on the bio load.

Aquarium Setup

The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish. Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. A minimum 70 gallon tank will work when small, but because they grow quickly and have an aggressive nature, 125 gallons is suggested. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. Poor water quality will ruin their eyes. Keeping the ph above neutral is important. They can tolerate any Ph above neutral, but a ph level of 8 is best. Sand for substrate will make them feel most at home. Sand used for saltwater fish or freshwater can be used. If keeping them with a higher ph, the saltwater sand can help keep the ph up. Crushed coral or aragonite sand can also increase the water's carbonate hardness, and tend to dissolves easier than salts. However if you use a rough substrate, they will be scratched up due to their nature of burying themselves. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish. They like a lot of hiding places in rocks and wood, but place the decor towards the back of the aquarium. Most importantly there needs to be a lot of swimming areas along the middle and bottom of the tank. They also like lots of plants such as Vallisneria, which creates a more natural environment for them. They will burrow but pose no threat to plants. Minimum Tank Size: 125 gal (473 L) - When small they can be kept in a minimum 70 gallon tank, but for adults 125 gallons is suggested. Suitable for Nano Tank: No Substrate Type: Sand Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0° F (22.8 to 27.8° C) Range ph: 7.7-8.6 Hardness Range: 6 - 10 dGH Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. Water Movement: Moderate Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors

The Livingstoni Cichlids are not community fish. Though only moderately aggressive, they are predaceous and will eat anything small. They are best kept in a species tank or with other cichlids. They are relatively peaceful among themselves, but get very territorial when spawning. They should not be kept with Mbunas (smaller rock dwelling cichlids). Also don't put this fish with peaceful cichlids. Since they are polygamist breeders they are best kept in groups of one male and several females l (three or more). During spawning they will attack and kill any other males of the same species in the tank unless the tank is large. If overstocking is used as a form of aggression reduction, care should be taken to do several partial water changes a week. Temperament: Semi-aggressive - Although they are voracious predators, they are only moderately aggressive as long as the tank is large enough. Compatible with: Same species - conspecifics: Yes - They are best kept in groups of 1 male with 3 or more females. The male will attack and kill another male. Peaceful fish (): Threat Semi-Aggressive (): Safe Aggressive (): Monitor Large Semi-Aggressive (): Monitor Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Threat Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive Plants: Monitor

Sex: Sexual differences

The male has egg shaped patterns on its' anal fins. He is also larger than the female and can have a blue hue on his forehead.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Livingstoni Cichlids are egg layers and form matriarchal families. They are polygamous in nature with a male attending several females. This cichlid has been bred in captivity. It is best to place one male with at least three females. Unlike others in this genus, they do not dig a spawning pit. They like a flat stone or slate to lay the eggs on. The female will lay up to 100 eggs. Being a mouth brooder she will then pick up the eggs into her mouth for incubation. She will care for the larvae and eggs and when they become fry, she will take them into her mouth at night or anytime she percieves danger. The fry can eat cyclopeeze and finely crushed flake. Ease of Breeding: Easy

Fish Diseases

Malawi bloat is a typical disease for the Livingstoni Cichlid, especially if their dietary needs are not met with quality foods. They are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. One common problem is Ich. Follow this link for Ick treatment and other information. As with most fish they are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. are prone to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

Availability

The Livingstonii Cichlid is usually found online and are moderately priced, but prices vary depending on whether they are male, female, or juvenile. They are also found in fish stores, though may be special ordered if you are willing to wait for them if they are out of season. Read the full article

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Salt in Freshwater Aquarium

Next time your fish is sick, the remedy might not be farther away than your kitchen table. Ordinary salt is a useful remedy for the prevention and treatment of several freshwater fish diseases. It assists in the healing of injuries, promotes the formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the uptake of nitrate, and is effective against some parasites. Before you go overboard using salt, be aware that some of the same benefits can be achieved by using a stress coat product. Furthermore, some plants and species fish cannot tolerate salt, so it must be used with care. In other words, salt is a double-edged sword. When to Use Salt Nitrite Poisoning: The addition of a one-half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrate poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much if any, salt. Parasites: Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations. When Not to Use Salt Live plants: If you live plants in your aquarium, avoid using salt. Plants can be damaged with a relatively low dosage of salt, which is one reason it's best to treat sick fish in a hospital tank rather than your regular tank. Scaleless fish: Scaleless fish, particularly Corydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt. Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water conditions. Type and Quantity of Salt Common table salt is suitable; however, it should be non-iodized and contain no additives. Rock or Kosher salt are excellent choices, as they are straight sodium chloride with nothing else added. The quantity will depend on how and what it is used for. A dip is a short exposure that is useful for the eradication of parasites. For dips, a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour. Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for the treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks. Performing a Dip When treating parasites, a dip is the method of choice. Place four teaspoons of salt in a clean bucket, then slowly add one gallon of water from the aquarium, swirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is completely dissolved, place the fish in the bucket for five to thirty minutes. Observe the fish closely, and if any signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the original aquarium immediately. Performing a Bath A bath is ideal when treating an entire tank for prevention of nitrite poisoning, or for reduction of stress. For stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the to the tank. For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out three teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the tank. When using bath treatments, weekly water changes of 25% should begin one week after initial treatment. Do not add additional salt once bath treatments have begun. Read the full article

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Dropsy/Bloat in Aquarium Fish, Diagnosis and Treatment

Dropsy or Bloat is an old medical term that was once used to describe swelling due to an accumulation of fluids in the tissues or body cavities, such as the abdomen. Fish suffering from Dropsy often have a hugely swollen belly, hence the origination of the disease name. The disease is actually an infection caused by bacteria that are commonly present in all aquariums. Consequently, any species of fish can be stricken with Dropsy, but healthy fish rarely fall prey to the disease. Fish are only susceptible when their immune system has been compromised by some stress factor. If all the fish in the tank are under stress, it’s quite common for the entire tank to become infected. It is also possible for only one or two fish to fall ill, especially when prompt action is taken to prevent the spread of the disease. As the infection progresses, skin lesions may appear, the belly fills with fluids and becomes swollen, internal organs are damaged, and ultimately the fish will die. Even with prompt treatment, the mortality rate is high. Only fish that are diagnosed in the early stages of the infection are likely to respond to treatment.

Overview

Names: Bloat, Dropsy Disease Type: Bacterial (gram-negative organism) Cause / Organism: Multiple causes

Symptoms

Symptoms vary widely. Some fish will have the classic swollen belly, others display skin lesions, while still others show few symptoms at all. This variability is what makes diagnosis difficult. In most cases, a number of symptoms are observed, both physical and behavioral. Those include: Grossly swollen belly Scales stand out (pinecone appearance) Eyes bulge Gills become pale Anus becomes red and swollen Feces pale and stringy Ulcers form on the body along the lateral line Spine may become curved Fish clamps fins Fish becomes lethargic Fish stop eating Fish hangs near the surface These symptoms are the result of the progression of the infection. Internal organs are affected, most notably the liver and kidneys. Anemia occurs, causing the gills to lose their normal red color. As the abdomen fills with fluid, organs are pushed aside, sometimes causing the spine to curve. Scales protrude from the body, giving the appearance of a pine cone. This symptom is a classic indication of a severe infection. Cause The bacterial agent that causes Dropsy is one of the several gram-negative bacteria commonly present in aquarium habitats. The underlying cause of fish becoming infected in the first place is a compromised immune system that leaves the fish susceptible to infection. This can happen as the result of stress from a number of factors, such as the following: Poor water quality Ammonia or nitrite spikes Large drop in water temperature Stress from transportation Improper nutrition Aggressive tankmates Other diseases Generally a single or short-term exposure to stress will not compromise the ability of the fish to fight infection. In most cases of lowered immunity, the stress exposure has happened for an extended period of time, or several stress factors have occurred in rapid succession.

Treatment

Dropsy is not easily cured. Some recommend that all affected fish be euthanized to prevent the spread of the infection to healthy fish. However, if detected early it is possible to save affected fish. Treatment is geared towards correcting the underlying problem and providing supportive care to the sick fish. Move sick fish to a hospital tank Add salt to hospital tank, 1 tsp per gallon Feed fresh high-quality foods Treat with antibiotics It is important to move the infected fish to another tank to separate them from the healthy fish. Meanwhile, perform a water change on the original tank and monitor the fish closely for appearance of symptoms. Salt should be added to the hospital tank, at the ratio of one teaspoon per gallon of water. Keep the tank scrupulously clean, and perform weekly partial water changes. Provide a variety of fresh, high-quality food. Often this is enough to resolve the infection in cases that are not advanced. Keep the fish under observation for several weeks after symptoms disappear. An effective treatment is to add an antibiotic to the food. With flake food, use about 1% of antibiotic and carefully mix it in. If you keep the fish hungry they should eagerly eat the mixture before the antibiotic dissipates. Antibiotics usually come in 250 mg capsules. If added to 25 grams of flake food, one capsule should be enough to treat dozens of fish. A good antibiotic is chloromycetin (chloramphenicol). Or use tetracycline. If you feed your fish frozen foods or chopped foods, try to use the same ratio with mixing. As a last resort add at most 10 mg per liter of water. Also, if unkempt conditions are the suspected cause, correct it.

Prevention

As in many diseases, prevention is the best cure. Almost all the factors that stress fish enough to cause them to be susceptible to infection can be prevented; because poor water quality is the most common root cause of stress, tank maintenance is critical. Other factors to keep in mind include: Perform regular water changes Keep the tank clean Clean the filter regularly Avoid overcrowding the tank Do not overfeed Use flake foods within one month of opening Vary the diet If the tank is well maintained, and the fish fed a healthy diet, outbreaks of Dropsy are unlikely.   For more info on Fish diseases and their treatment, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments. Read the full article

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Electric Yellow Lab Cichlid

The Electric Yellow Lab Cichlid Labidochromis caeruleus is one of the most popular African cichlids because of the beautiful yellow coloring. It is usually seen in its golden phase, thus its common names also include Yellow Lab Cichlid, Electric Yellow Lab, Yellow Labido, Lemon Yellow Lab, Banana Cichlid and Lemon drop Cichlid. This strikingly yellow morph is only one variety of this fish however, there are actually about a dozen naturally occurring color morphs. As a group this species is known as the Blue Streak Hap as well as Labidochromis Yellow, Labidochromis White, Pearl Labidochromis, and Blue-White Labido. Blue morphs as well as white varieties are occasionally available to the hobbyist. Blue Streak Haps are widespread throughout Lake Malawi, but the yellow variety is found only in the Nkhata Bay between the Islands of Charo and Mbowe. Author Marc Elieson gives a fascinating overview of the the discovery and introduction of this color morph to the hobby in his article entitled "Labidochromis caeruleus". He describes how this color morph was first found and collected by Stuart Grant and his divers around 1980. They were then bred in large quantities by Pierre Brichard in his fish facility in Burundi, Africa, located on Lake Tanganyika. Brichard began offering the offspring for sale in 1986, which caused a great deal of confusion because he initially called them "Labidochromis tanganicae". Fortunately has all been sorted out as they are not Tanganyika cichlids, but rather a xanthic variation of L. caeruleus. These fish are members of the Mbuna group. Mbunas are small, dynamic rock-dwelling cichlids from Lake Malawi, Africa. There are 13 genera full of very active and aggressive personalities of Mbuna cichlids. The African word "mbuna" comes from the Tonga people of Malawi and means "rockfish" or "rock-dwelling". This name aptly describes the environment these fish live in as opposed to the open water swimmers like the Utaka cichlids and other "haps". The Electric Yellow Labs are a most interesting African cichlid. They stand out with their brilliant coloration but also because they are one of the most peaceful of the Mbuna species. As an omnivore and being somewhat shy, they are very versatile and adaptable to all sorts of cichlid setups. They can live singly or in pairs. They are not territorial but they will be aggressive towards other fish that are similar in body shape or color. Other peaceful Mbunas as well as Peacock Cichlids, Featherfins, and Lamprologus species can make good tankmates. These truly attractive fish are ideal for the beginning cichlid keeper. They can be maintained in an aquarium as small as 30 gallons, though 50 gallons or so is ideal, and they are generally easy to care for. They are most comfortable in an aquarium with lots of rocks and caves that provide hiding places for it to dart in and out of. They like a sandy bottom and if you provide plants they will not burrow or in any other way disturb them. They are very durable and less susceptible to Malawi Bloat, which is an affliction that many African cichlids are prone to if the herbivore aspect of their dietary needs are not closely managed.

Scientific Classification

Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Chordata Class: Actinopterygii Order: Perciformes Family: Cichlidae Genus: Labidochromis Species: caeruleus For Information on keeping freshwater fish, see: Freshwater Aquarium Guide: Aquarium Setup and Care

Electric Yellow Cichlid - Quick Aquarium Care

Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner Size of fish - inches: 3.2 inches (8.10 cm) Minimum Tank Size: 30 gal (114 L) Temperament: Semi-aggressive Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy Temperature: 75.0 to 79.0° F (23.9 to 26.1° C)

Habitat: Distribution / Background

The Blue Streak Hap Labidochromis caeruleus was described by Fryer in 1956. They are endemic to the rocky shoreline of Lake Malawi, Africa. Their distribution within Lake Malawi is on the west coast between Ruarwe and Nkhata Bays and on the east coast from the waters of southern Tanzania to northern Mozambique. This distribution contributes to a diversity of color, mostly in variations of whites and yellows. Electric Yellow Cichlid has a much more restricted location. They are found only on the western side in Nkhata Bay between the Islands of Charo and Lion’s Cove. This species is listed on the IUCN Red List as Lease Concern (LC). It is endemic to Lake Malawi but is widespread with no recognized threats at present. Other common names it is known by are Labidochromis Yellow, Labidochromis White, Pearl Labidochromis, Blue-White Labido, Labido Cichlid, and Utaka (even though it is a Mbuna). The Electric Yellow Cichlid described here is also known as the Yellow Lab Cichlid, Electric Yellow Lab, Electric Yellow Labido, Lemon Yellow Lab, Yellow Labido Cichlid, Banana Cichlid, Lemon drop Cichlid, and Yellow Prince. This Mbuna cichlid occurs above rocky areas as well as in sections vegetated with Vallisneria aethiopica. They occur at the greatest depth of all the species in the Labidochromis genus, found at depths between 35 - 100 feet (10 - 30 m). They are rarely found at depths less this. The Electric Yellow Cichlid is generally found at a depth of 70 feet (20 m). In the wild they live either singly or in pairs and are a mouthbrooder species that forms a matriarchal family. Depending on their individual habitats, they feed primarily on lithophile (stone loving) invertebrates, mollusks and snails, but also eat fish and insects. Scientific Name: Labidochromis caeruleus Social Grouping: Varies - In nature they are found either singly or in pairs. IUCN Red List: LC - Least Concern

Description

The body of the Labido Cichlid is stocky and rather elongated. This cichlid grows a bit over 3 inches (8.1 cm) in length in the wild, but can grow larger in the aquarium, up to a length of almost 4" (10 cm). Lake Malawi fish live an average of 6 to 10 years. There are about a dozen color morphs found in this species, depending on where they originate from. The normal coloration is white with a vivid black stripe running along the dorsal fin just inset from the edge. Males grow a bit larger than females and during breeding time develop a bluish coloration.

The Electric Yellow Cichlid, as its name suggests, has a bright yellow body also with a black stripe on its dorsal as well as black on the anal fins, though it will often not show this vivid black striping until it is mature. This is the most popular in the hobby but there are other color variations, especially blue, that are occasionally available. Some of these varieties are: Yellow with a blue dorsal: The color morph is from Kakusa Yellow with a whitish belly: This is another color morph from Lion's Cove White: The white color morph is from Lundu Island White with blue fins: This is a color morph that is becoming very popular and is from Nkhata bay. White with a dark blue stripe on the dorsal fin: This is a color morph from Undu Point. Size of fish - inches: 3.2 inches (8.10 cm) - These fish reach a length of about 3" (8.1 cm) in the wild, but can grow up to almost 4" (10 cm) in the aquarium. Lifespan: 6 years - The average lifespan for this fish is about 6 to 10 years with proper care.

Fish Keeping Difficulty

They are are generally easy to care for and are excellent cichlids for the beginner. They are moderately aggressive so not a community tank specimen that can be kept with fish other than cichlids. The aquarists must be willing to do frequent water changes and provide appropriate tank mates. In the proper setup they will easily adapt to prepared foods, breed readily, and the juveniles are easy to raise as well. Aquarium Hardiness: Very Hardy Aquarist Experience Level: Beginner

Foods and Feeding

Although its diet is primarily carnivorous in the wild, the Electric Yellow Cichlid is an omnivore. In the aquarium it is not picky about its fare and will generally eat all kinds of live, fresh, and flake foods. To keep a good balance provide them with both plant and animal foods in about equal proportions. They do need some vegetable matter to help prevent Malawi bloat, but they are not as susceptible to this disease as other African cichlids. They will accept most prepared foods such as high quality flake foods, pellets, and freeze dried foods as well as natural proteins like brine shrimp and blood worms (either live or frozen). A carotene based food is also suggested to keep their colors bright, color enhancing commercial foods are readily available. Vary their diet and they will reward you with beautiful coloring. It is always better to feed them small amounts several times a day instead of one large feeding. This keeps the water quality higher for a longer period of time. Of course, all fish benefit from added vitamins and supplements to their foods. Diet Type: Omnivore Flake Food: Yes Tablet / Pellet: Yes Live foods (fishes, shrimps, worms): Some of Diet Vegetable Food: Half of Diet Meaty Food: Half of Diet Feeding Frequency: Several feedings per day - Offer several small feedings a day, what they can eat in about 3 minutes or less, rather than a single large feeding.

Aquarium Care

Malawi Cichlids will deteriorate under poor water conditions. Have an established filtration system along with water changes of 10% to 20% a week depending on the bio load. Water Changes: Weekly - Water changes of 10-20% weekly are suggested, depending on the bio load.

Aquarium Setup

The streams that flow into Lake Malawi have a high mineral content. This along with evaporation has resulted in alkaline water that is highly mineralized. Lake Malawi is known for its clarity and stability as far as pH and other water chemistries. It is easy to see why it is important to watch tank parameters with all Lake Malawi fish. Rift lake cichlids need hard alkaline water but are not found in brackish waters. Salt is sometimes used as a buffering agent to increase the water's carbonate hardness. This cichlid has some salt tolerance so can be kept in slightly brackish water conditions. However it not suited to a full brackish water tank. It can tolerate a salinity that is about 10% of a normal saltwater tank, a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. They can be maintained in a minimum 30 gallon aquarium, though 50 gallons or so is ideal. They do fine in either freshwater or brackish freshwater but need good water movement along with very strong and efficient filtration. They can tolerate any ph above neutral, but a ph level of 8 is best. A substrate of crushed coral or sand used for salt water tanks can help keep the pH up. Crushed coral or aragonite sands also tend to dissolves easier than salts. Keeping a higher pH however, means that ammonia is more lethal, so regular water changes are a must for these fish. A very slow acclimation to different pH levels can sometimes be achieved. They are most comfortable in an aquarium with lots of rocks and caves that provide hiding places to dart in and out of along with some open swimming space. They spend the day moving around the rocky inclines looking at the ceilings, cracks and crevices for small food tidbits. If you provide plants they will not burrow or in any other way disturb them. Minimum Tank Size: 30 gal (114 L) - A minimum of 30 gallons is the suggested, with 50 gallons being ideal. Suitable for Nano Tank: No Substrate Type: Sand/Gravel Mix Lighting Needs: Moderate - normal lighting Temperature: 75.0 to 79.0° F (23.9 to 26.1° C) Range ph: 7.2-8.8 Hardness Range: 10 - 20 dGH Brackish: Sometimes - Salt is not found in their natural environment, but they do have a slight tolerance, keep levels below 10% - a specific gravity of less than 1.0002. Water Movement: Moderate Water Region: All - These fish will swim in all areas of the aquarium.

Social Behaviors

The Electric Yellow Cichlid is not considered to be a community fish. They are not a territorial cichlid and they are among the most peaceful Mbuna found on Lake Malawi. They are very versatile and adaptable to all sorts of cichlid setups. They can live singly or in pairs. They are not territorial but they will be aggressive towards other fish that are similar in body shape or color. Other peaceful Mbunas as well as Peacock Cichlids, Featherfins, and Lamprologus species can make good tankmates. Temperament: Semi-aggressive Compatible with: Same species - conspecifics: Yes - As adults they can be kept singly or in pairs. Peaceful fish (): Monitor Semi-Aggressive (): Safe Aggressive (): Threat Large Semi-Aggressive (): Threat Large Aggressive, Predatory (): Threat Slow Swimmers & Eaters (): Monitor Shrimps, Crabs, Snails: Threat - is aggressive Plants: Safe

Sex: Sexual differences

The male Labido Cichlid is slightly larger than the female. At breeding time they are more colorful and will develop a bluish color.

Breeding / Reproduction

The Electric Yellow Cichlids are egg layers. They are ovophile mouth brooders and form matriarchal families. This is one of the easiest mouthbrooders to breed. It is suggested to obtain 5-6 young fry and raise them together. Sexual maturity is reached at 6 months when they are about 1 1/2 " in length. Feed 2 times a day to condition them to breed. Typical of Mbuna breeding, they like a like a flat tone or slate to inspire them to spawn. Depending on the size of the female, she will lay between about 10 to 30 eggs and then immediately take them into their mouths before they are fertilized. The male displays by flaring out his anal fin, which showcases the "egg spot patterning" on the fin. the female mistaken the eggs spots on the male's anal fin as her own eggs and tries to take them in her mouth as well. In doing so, she then stimulates the male to discharge sperm (milt cloud) and inhales of cloud of "milt" which then fertilize the eggs in her mouth. Females are generally good "holders" and will refuse food for up to 4 weeks while holding the young. According to a report by Scheuermann (1974) in Das Aquarium 8, 439-441: the young leave the mouth of the mother after 25 days at 27-28° C (81-82° F) or after 40 days at 23-24° C (73-75° F). The mother continues to care for the young for about a week after they leave her mouth. The released fry can eat finely powdered dry foods and brine shrimp nauplii. Provide plenty of hiding places so the young will have a easier time surviving until they are too big to eat. Ease of Breeding: Easy

Fish Diseases

The Electric Yellow Cichlids are very durable and less susceptible to Malawi Bloat, which is an affliction that many African cichlids are prone to if the herbivore aspect of their dietary needs are not closely managed. They are susceptible to typical fish ailments, especially if water is stale and of poor quality and oxygenation. One common problem is Ich. Follow this link for Ick treatment and other information. Although Malawi bloat is a typical disease for many African cichlids when their dietary needs do not include enough vegetable matter, but fortunately this cichlid is much less prone to it. As with most fish however, they are susceptible to skin flukes and other parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.), fungal infections, and bacterial infections. It is recommended to read up on the common tank diseases. Knowing the signs and catching and treating them early makes a huge difference. For information about freshwater fish diseases and illnesses, see Aquarium Fish Diseases and Treatments.

Availability

The Electric Yellow Cichlid is readily available in pet stores and they are moderate in cost. Read the full article

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Part 8: Learning Some Fun Facts About Betta Fish

Enjoy some facts about betta fish Betta fish are members of the Anabantoid family (gouramis are also in this family), also called labyrinthian fish. They have a back-up breathing system that allows them to breathe surface air; however, they still require a filtration system in their tanks. Female betta fish are typically smaller than male betta fish. They usually lack the long finnage that males possess. However, they can still be equally as beautiful in their own way—–and feisty! Don't keep them together though, as females still tend to be as aggressive as the males. Bubble nests (foamy bubbles on the surface of the water) mean that they are getting ready to spawn. It does not automatically mean that they are happy or healthy. If a male likes a female, he flares his gills, twists his body, and spreads his fins. If a female likes a male, she wriggles back and front. "Betta" is actually a genus of fish. The typical betta found at pet stores is the Betta splendens species. There are actually many more species mainly found in the wild, and they can look like a totally different type of fish! If you want a more technical detail on Betta fish, you can visit Betta Fish Page. Part 7: Have Fun Read the full article

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Part 7: Have Fun

Have fun with your new friend Betta fish come to recognize their owners. They will actually learn faces and even simple games. Keep your betta company and say "hi" once in a while, so he learns who you are! Betta fish are very curious and often develop a strong bond with their caretaker. They can "beg" for food by swimming up and down in the front of the tank when you come near. Play with your betta fish Betta fish are enjoyable to watch and spend time with. You can play with your fish by moving your finger back and forth along the tank edge (never bang the tank or poke the water). Watch your betta follow you. And above all, don't forget to name your fish! Never tap the glass of the tank. This action easily agitates the fish and can cause the fish to go into shock. To interact through movement, simply slowly rest your finger on the glass and slide it along to see if your betta will follow it. If he/she backs away and seems frightened, then stop immediately. You can eventually try again once you the betta is more accustomed and less afraid of you. Avoid having a mirror as a permanent fixture in the tank, as it will make your betta believe there is another betta constantly in their territory and can cause stress. Using a mirror in moderation (once in a while for less than five minutes), however, can help a constipated betta defecate. Tank walls can sometimes be naturally mirrored as well, so consider purchasing underwater "wallpaper" to cover this up. Read the full article

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How to Treat Ich (Ichthyophthirius Multifilis) in Aquarium Fish

The name Ichthyophthirius multifilis translates to "fish louse with many children", a title that fits well, as each parasite may produce more than a thousand offspring. Although the disease is the equivalent of a skin infection, ich can easily be fatal to a fish stressed by poor diet or habitat. Symptoms Small white spots resembling sand Fish scratch against rocks and gravel In advanced stages fish become lethargic Redness or bloody streaks in advanced stages Infected fish are covered to various degrees with small white spots. Severe infestations are easy to spot, but small occurrences often go unnoticed. However, ich won't remain unnoticed for long. Like a bad penny, it will be back with a vengeance. The adult parasite burrows into the skin of its victim, feeding on blood and dead epithelial cells. The irritation caused by the burrowing parasite causes the skin of the fish to swell and produce white cysts seen as ​a small spots. The fish feels as if it's been bitten by a mosquito. It's not unusual to see infected fish scratching against rocks and gravel in an effort to get relief. After several days of feasting, the engorged parasite develops into a trophozoite, burrows out of the fish and sinks bottom of the tank. Secreting a soft jellylike substance, it forms a protective membrane inside of which it divides into hundreds of baby parasites, known as tomites. The hungry tomites soon leave their home in search of a fresh fish to dine upon. It is during the free-swimming stage, which lasts a mere three days, that the parasite is vulnerable to medication. Once it has burrowed into a new host fish it is safely protected from chemicals in the water. Treatment Raise water temperature Medicate for 10-14 days Reduce medication when treating scaleless fish Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment Perform water changes between treatments The entire cycle takes about two weeks from start to finish. Higher temperatures will shorten the cycle, while low temperatures lengthen it. Therefore, raising the water temperature shortens the time it takes for the parasite to reach the stage in which it is susceptible to medication. Treatments must be given for a long enough period to assure that all parasites are gone. Watch carefully for other infections, as secondary infections often occur where the skin has been damaged by the parasite. Although nothing kills the parasite once it has checked into its fish "hotel", several chemicals kill ich once it has left the fish. Malachite green, methylene blue, quinine hydrochloride and mepracrine hydrochloride are all effective and are available under several brand names. Dose based on the package instructions; however, cut dosages in half when treating scaleless catfish and tetras. Regardless of the medication used, treatment should be given continuously for 10-14 days to ensure all parasites are killed. Between treatments, a partial water change is recommended. Keep water temperatures higher than usual to speed up the life cycle of the parasite. Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment, as it will remove the chemicals. Another Treatment Option: Total Fish Removal Tomites, the motile and fish-infecting stage of the ich life cycle, exit from the trophonts that burst from affected fish and fall to the bottom of the tank. Without fish to re-attach to, however, tomites will die within 48 hours of exiting their trophonts. Thus, an effective way to clear a tank from ich is to remove all of the fish for a certain amount of time. At 80 degrees Fahrenheit, ich tomites will die at 2 days in the absence of fish, and just to be absolutely sure, some recommend keeping the tank empty of fish and at 80 degrees for 4 days (96 hours). This solution may be helpful when there are either very few fish in the tank or when tank capacity is too large to easily treat the volume of water. Prevention Quarantine new fish for two weeks Treat plants before adding to tank Maintain high water quality Provide fish with a nutritionally balanced diet The best way to avoid ich is to quarantine all new fish in a separate tank for two weeks before moving them to the regular tank. When quarantine is not possible, a prophylactic treatment may be used. Either methylene blue or malachite green when new fish are introduced and again four days later will help reduce the incidence of infection. New plants should also be treated, as they can carry ich cysts. Maintaining high water quality, avoiding temperature fluctuations,and providing a robust diet is the best preventative for ich and other diseases. Read the full article

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Part 6: Keeping Your Betta's Tank Clean

Ensure your betta is properly acclimate Betta fish are only hardy to a particular water type, such as a certain water hardness and pH. It takes them a while to acclimate to a new environment and this process is stressful for the betta, Allow your betta to fully acclimate before making any changes to their new home. Clean your Betta's tank

Betta's thrive best in an already cycled tank with a filter, unless you are doing extremely frequent large water changes (but this can be stressful for the betta). Slow flow or sponge filters are recommended due to the betta's fragile fins. Vacuum the bottom of the filtered tank gently when doing routine small water changes. There are many symptoms of dirty water, such as, fin rot. Not to worry, the problem is easily treatable. Be sure to always add a dechlorinator when adding new water. Be sure that the water you are changing is the same temperature as the old water the betta was in to avoid temperature shock. Use an in-tank thermometer to check the water temperatures. Test the water weekly

In order to test water parameters each week, you will need a master freshwater test kit. This will allow you to monitor your aquarium and take readings. Follow the instructions for testing provided by the manufacturer. Place notes in your calendar or diary to remind yourself that it's time to test and change the water. Part 5: Feeding Your Betta Part 7: Have Fun Read the full article

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Common Beginner Mistakes When Starting a New Aquarium

Beginning hobbyist fish keepers can make some common beginner mistakes when starting a new aquarium. Here are some pitfalls to avoid. Starting Too Small

With the availability of mini-aquarium packages, it's become appealing to go small. However, for beginners, choosing a small aquarium is courting failure. Why? Because when the water volume is small, key water parameters change very quickly, leaving no room for error. Even experienced aquarists are challenged by a small aquarium. Newcomers to the hobby should stay away from tanks under 20 gallons until they've gotten some experience under their belt. Remember, the bigger the tank, the less impact a mistake will have on the fish. Adding Fish Too Soon New aquarium owners are eager to add fish, often the same day they set up the tank. Some are lucky but many will quickly lose some, or all, of their fish. What went wrong? The water in a new tank hasn't stabilized yet. Gases are dissolved in the water as well as minerals, heavy metals, and chemicals added to local water treatment facilities. Without going into lengthy detail about water chemistry, suffice it to say that dissolved constituents in the water can harm the fish. Aquarium water should be treated to neutralize harmful materials and allowed to stand for a day or so to allow dissolved gases to escape and the pH to stabilize. It is then safe to introduce fish to the aquarium. Adding Too Many Fish at Once What fish owner isn't eager to fill the tank with fish? Unfortunately adding too many fish all at once is another common mistake of new owners. Until the bacterial colonies have fully established, the aquarium cannot safely support a full load of fish. Only add a couple of small hardy fish initially. Wait until both the ammonia and nitrite levels have risen and then fallen to zero, before adding more fish. Overstocking

Even getting through the initial startup, it's very common for new owners to overstock the aquarium. Although an experienced person may successfully keep a school of 20 small fish in a ten-gallon aquarium, it would be disastrous for a beginner to attempt it. Debate exists over the inch per gallon rule, but it provides a good basic yardstick from which to start. We recommend taking 80 percent of the net gallons of water in the tank as the maximum number of inches of fish to keep in the tank. The net gallons of water is the amount of water actually placed in the aquarium after the gravel and decorations are in it. For example, let's say an aquarium holds 16 gallons of water after the decorations and gravel have been added. Multiplying 16 by 80 percent yields a result of 12.8 or about 13 inches of fish as a maximum number. It is always wise to go under the maximum to rather than all over. Keeping Incompatible Fish New aquarium owners often choose fish that look appealing to them without knowing the environmental needs of the fish. Some fish may fight with one another or require widely different water conditions. Either way, they should not be kept together. Always research each species before choosing tank mates. Select peaceful fish that thrive in similar water conditions. Overfeeding

The number one mistake made by fish owners is overfeeding their fish. Fish are opportunistic and will seek food at all times. Just because they appear hungry doesn't mean they need to be fed all the time. Feed them no more than they completely consume in five minutes. During startup, feed fish no more than once per day; during critical times when ammonia or nitrite levels are high, withhold feeding for a day or two to reduce the wastes being produced. Fish can easily go several days without food and not suffer ill effects. Insufficient Filtration An aquarium filter should filter all the water in the tank through it at least three times per hour. If it doesn't, it is too small. If in doubt about filter size, move to the next size up. You can't over-filter, but you can definitely under-filter, and the results can be harmful to your fish. Not Testing the Water New owners don't magically have full knowledge of the nitrogen cycle and the need to monitor the water chemistry in their aquarium. As a result, they often are unaware of the need to test their water and fail to take steps to deal with harmful toxins. When the tank is first set up, allow it to run for a day or two. Before adding the fish, test the pH, hardness, ammonia and nitrite levels for a baseline record. During the startup cycle, it is important to test the ammonia and nitrites often (see Nitrogen Cycle for details). Once the tank is well established, test the water monthly to be aware of unseen problems that may be brewing. If fish suddenly die, test the water to see if anything has changed. Not Changing the Water New owners aren't always educated about aquarium maintenance which includes changing part of the water on a regular basis. Wastes build up in the tank that can only be removed by vacuuming the gravel and removing some water and replacing it with fresh water. Although your fish may not die if you fail at maintenance and regular water changes, they will be stressed by substandard water conditions. As a result, they will be more susceptible to disease and often will have a shorter lifespan than they should have. Read the full article

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Aquarium Substrate - Purpose and Type

Aquariums are usually set up with some sort of substrate covering the tank bottom. The substrate is available in a variety of color and materials that give aquarium owners a wide range of options when setting up an aquarium. It is wise to spend some time choosing the type and color of the substrate before setting up the tank because the substrate isn't as easy to change as other decors in the aquarium. Purpose of Substrate The substrate serves several purposes; some are key to a healthy habitat, while others are merely aesthetic. 1.  First and foremost, the substrate serves a role in the nitrogen cycle by acting as a medium in which beneficial bacteria colonize and grow. Although the substrate is not the only host for these important bacteria, it is where a significant number of them reside. In addition to supporting bacterial colonies, the substrate is also a medium for live plants to take root and draw nutrients. Special substrates are available that provide key nutrients for live plants. 2.  Substrate creates a more natural habitat for the fish, and it's particularly important for fish that like to burrow. Bottom-dwelling species enjoy rooting in the substrate for tidbits of food that have fallen there. The substrate can also make fish feel safer, as it does not reflect images of the other fish in the tank as glass can. The mottled color of the substrate adds to the feeling of being safe. Some species of fish scatter their eggs on the bottom of the tank. If the tank bottom is bare, the eggs are clearly visible and more likely to be consumed by adult fish. A mottled substrate will help make the eggs less noticeable. If the substrate is large enough, some eggs will fall in between the open spaces and be protected. 3.  Last, but not least, substrate contributes to the overall aesthetic appeal of the aquarium. When combined with plants, rocks, driftwood, and other decors, it creates a visual landscape that is pleasant to the eye and has a calming effect overall. A well-crafted aquarium is known to have a positive health benefit with those who gaze at it. Choosing a hue of the substrate that compliments your fish can serve to noticeably showcase their colors. Substrate Material

Sand Substrate The substrate is available in a wide range of materials. However, the majority of aquarium owners choose standard gravel that is readily available at pet shops. Gravel comes in a variety of sizes, colors, and even shape. Any gravel that is marked for aquarium use is treated. Next to gravel, Sand is one of the other choices often considered. Fish that enjoy burrowing are particularly fond of sand substrate. Another commonly used substrate is crushed coral, which has the effect of raising the pH and increasing the buffering capacity of the water. This is particularly helpful when keeping certain species of cichlids that prefer harder alkaline water.

Crushed Corals as substrate Large river rock is sometimes used by itself or with gravel beneath it. The rock is attractive and makes for a natural setting. Marbles, on the other hand, are far from natural. However, they are often used when breeding egg scattering species of fish. The eggs will fall between the marbles and out of reach of the adult fish, who enjoy eating the tasty freshly laid eggs. Marbles are also used in fish bowls, allowing for ease of maintenance. If live plants are kept in the tank, it is common to use laterite or vermiculite as substrate. These materials can store and release important nutrients for the live plants. They are usually used as a lower layer of the substrate and covered with a layer of gravel. Substrate Quantity The substrate is generally filled to a depth of approximately one and a half to two inches. Additional depth may be warranted if keeping live plants that produce a robust root system, and need the depth. When using sand, the depth is a bit less, in the range of an inch to an inch and a half. More than that can cause anaerobic zones that are problematical. This is also true of gravel substrate that is filled too deep. Substrate Color

Color is a topic that often gives rise to heated discussions. Some feel strongly that substrate color should mimic natural habitats, while others choose a substrate color based on personal preference -- bright pink, neon blue, fire engine red or a host of other colors. Clearly, those are not natural colors that fish experience in nature, but it isn't going to directly harm the aquarium inhabitants. If you do a good job of caring for the fish, the color of the substrate is a minor issue. Most fish are quite adaptable, and if kept in a well-maintained tank with proper water conditions and good food, they will do fine regardless of the substrate color. Read the full article

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Part 5: Feeding Your Betta

Betta fish are an excellent option for a home or office aquarium. They’re easy to take care of, they’re more active than most pet fish species, and they’re beautiful. Betta fish are carnivorous so they must be fed meat-based foods. They shouldn’t be fed the dry, vegetable-based pellets that are fed to most tropical fish. By understanding the betta fish’s diet and learning how to feed it properly, you can keep your fish alive for a long time. Pick the proper diet for your betta Bettas are carnivores. Your betta's diet should consist of pellets specifically made for feeding betta, as well as a variety of other carnivorous foods. Frozen brine shrimp or blood worms are good options. Check the ingredients of betta specific pellets and flakes. The first three should be protein based. Experts say that protein in the pellets should be no less than 40%. Feed your betta regularly Betta fish vary in eating habits from each other, so experiment to see how much food your Betta eats. Set up routine feeding times, for example, once in the morning and once at night. If you stick to this routine, you may even find that your betta waiting for you when it's time to eat! Take care not to overfeed the fish. A betta's stomach is only about the size of their eye. Overfeeding can be a problem in some betta fish, as some fish will eat as long as you feed them (which can be fatal). A good feeding schedule is 3 pellets in the morning, and 3 at night. Soaking the pellets in water for a few minutes before feeding is recommended since the pellets will otherwise expand inside your betta's stomach, which can cause unhealthy bloating and digestive blockage. Overfeeding can cause bloating and bladder problems which can be fatal, although this is not as serious as a similar condition referred to as dropsy Clean up any extra food that your betta does not eat Similarly, watch your betta to see if he/she spits up any food. This could be a sign that your betta is a picky eater, or it could also mean that the pellets are too big for the betta's mouth. Ironically, most big fish food companies don't realize that Betta fish have smaller mouths than, say, goldfish or others. You can cut the pellets in half with a small razor blade or such to allow it to fit in the betta's mouth easier. If it still refuses to eat, try another brand of pellets or dried food. Turn feeding time into a little enrichment exercise Put a straw in the tank and watch your betta to see if he/she gets used to it. If he/she does, and you have leftover betta food he/she won't eat, place one of the leftover pellets in the tank. Place the straw over it so that it is inside the straw. Hold the straw over the fish and wait for him/her to find it. After your betta finds it, he/she will follow it. You can then slowly lift the straw up to the top of the tank until the food pops out and your betta will eat it. Part 4: Adding Your Betta Part 6: Keeping Your Betta's Tank Clean(Coming Soon) Read the full article

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Part 4: Adding Your Betta

Add your betta

First, slowly and carefully add some of your tank water to the container in which you received your betta. Allowing the new water and old water to mix will make the water easier for your fish to adjust to––if the habitat water is much colder or warmer than the previous water, mixing waters will help allay any shock for the fish. Next, tip the cup into your new aquarium, but try to add as little water as possible from the container to the new home, since sometimes water from the pet store can carry diseases and other things that you don't want in your new tank. Be gentle as you tip in the betta. Avoid netting a betta if possible, as this can damage the delicate fins. If you need to pick up a betta, try to use a small cup to scoop him/her up with care.   Part 3: Preparing and Adding Water to the Tank Part 5: Feeding your Betta(Coming Soon) Click to Post

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Part 3: Preparing and Adding Water to the Tank

Preparing and Adding Water to the Tank

After finding suitable tank for your betta, now its time to add water to the tank.

Prepare the water

Use a water conditioner such as Prime before putting fresh tap water in the tank. The chlorine and chloramines in standard tap water can harm bettas, as well as kill off all that beneficial bacteria housed in the filter. Older sources may suggest aging the water (standing it for a time) but it's best to use a water conditioner, as aged water removes chlorine but not chloramine and heavy metals. Use a master freshwater test kit to ensure that your tank is completely cycled before adding your betta! It is a not a good idea to use bottled water because this deprives your betta of necessary minerals and is not fish 'safe'. Treated tap water is both a cheaper and better alternative.

Fill the betta's tank

If the tank is without a top cover, fill it about 80% high to ensure your fish won't leap out. Bettas are very active and can jump over 3 inches/7.5cm when motivated! However, bettas usually won't be trying to escape if they're happy in their Part 2: Prepare Your Betta's Home Part 4(Coming Soon) Click to Post

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Part 2: Prepare Your Betta's Home

Prepare your Betta's home

After proper research, now you need to prepare your betta's home. Have a proper set up ready before bringing home your new pet home. This prevents possible mishaps. Don't place a male Betta fish with another male, but females do fine together only if they have a docile personality and if you have five or more female bettas in an optimum tank size of 15-20 gallons, though 10 gallons will suffice (as long as an efficient amount of hiding spaces have been provided). This is called a betta sorority and is very hard to set up sometimes. If you only want two bettas, don't put them together just to be safe. If you want another fish with your Betta, choose a fish that doesn't have long fins (do not get a guppy) and is roughly about the same size as the betta. Bigger fish will eat the betta, and the betta might eat any fish smaller than its mouth. A few good suggestions for tank mates are Red Cherry Shrimp and White Cloud Mountain Minnows.

Choose a suitable home

In the wild, bettas inhabit Thai rice paddies. Hence, they are suited to living in relatively shallow, but spacious environments. To meet the spacious need, consider giving your betta a decently sized tank to help prolong its life. Pick a tank of 5 gallons (19 liters) or more for your betta to thrive. It may seem like a lot, but it's what your fish

Add the necessary equipment

Various equipment is required for the successful keeping of Betta fish: Purchase a heater with a thermostat––Betta fish like water temperatures between 78-82ºF/24-27ºC. Bettas need a heater in all cases (they are tropical fish)––for example, if you live in a cold country or if you have an aquarium below room temperature, then a heater is required. Mini-heaters are available for betta tanks between 1-3 gallons (4-11 liters). During the winter, you may want to add a mini heater or place your aquarium close to a radiator (1 meter/3.2 feet away), to prevent your Betta from becoming too cold. Filters are always necessary but make sure the current is not too strong for your betta. Bear in mind that the long-finned varieties do best with as little current as possible. Some experts recommend the use of sponge filters, to protect the fins. Avoid jagged rocks or decorations. Such decorations can easily tear betta fins. It's recommended that you check once a day that there are no tears in the betta's fins. If there are tears, first check the water quality, as tears are typically caused by poor water maintenance. Avoid adding any hard plastic plants. Again, these can be rough on the fins. Use the 'pantyhose test': If a plastic plant will snag a pair of pantyhose when rubbed against it, then it will damage your betta's fins. Be safe and buy silk plants instead. Live plants are a great idea. They're prettier than fake ones, and betta fish love lounging on the leaves and hiding in them to sleep. Live plants also help to oxygenate the water and keep the water cleaner for longer periods of time by absorbing ammonia which can be fatal to your fish.

If you're considering adding tank-mates, do your research

Betta fish tend to prefer being alone and may kill other fish and even snails if added to the tank. Some betta fish are fine with tank-mates such as snails, ghost or cherry shrimp and catfish, and consider that as long as the fish sharing the tank is not bigger, more colorful or fin nipping, it should be okay. Before adding any sort of tank-mate, do thorough research by asking questions of the retailer, reading in books about betta fish or checking online sites dedicated to betta fish. The article Betta Social Behavior can assist with choosing a tank-mate for your betta. If in doubt, leave the tank-mate out. Male betta fish cannot live with other male betta fish. They are named Siamese fighting fish for a reason! In an aquarium setting, they will fight to the death in order to protect their living space, regardless of the size of the tank. If your tank does not have a partition, do not risk losing one or both of your betta fish by allowing them to live together. Keep female betta fish either singly or in groups of at least five, to lessen any aggression. The tank must be at least 10 gallons (38 liters) and have several hiding spots if keeping multiple females. All females must be added at the same time. Don't place only two female betta fish in your tank. They establish a "pecking order" and having only two female fish means that the less dominant one gets picked on exclusively. Female betta fish will fight males and vice versa. Don't put them in together. Remember that breeding bettas is a huge commitment, and not something to be taken lightly. Putting a mirror up to the side of the tank can cause a betta to flare because he/she thinks that there is a rival in his/her territory. This can stress out the fish, so avoid mirrors.   Part 1: Learn About Betta Fish Part 3: Adding Water to the Tank(Coming Soon) Click to Post

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Part 1: Learn About Betta Fish

First thing you need to do is learn about Betta fish. Their requirements, do's and dont's. Following are some points that you need to take into consideration.

Please be aware of what you are getting into before you buy a Betta fish.

Know that these fish can live up to 10 years under the proper care, so do your research before buying. The minimum size tank for a Betta fish is 2.5 gallons with a heater and filter. Please do not keep a Betta fish in a bowl; it is terrible for their health and is very small! Your Betta fish will not be happy or live as long.  

Do a lot of initial background research

There is a good deal to know about Betta fish, even beyond the basics outlined below. In general, large box stores aren't concerned in providing detailed information, unless you happen to strike a Betta enthusiast salesperson. As well as having the basic understanding of Betta outlined below, you might consider researching more details about Betta fish at our Betta Page. The information provided there will remain useful for you after purchase too.

Picking out your Betta fish

Here are few things to look for. Look at the color. Is the Betta's color bright and vivid, or is it very dull? Even if the Betta's color is a little pale, it should shine nicely. Bettas come in a variety of colors, but blues and reds (dark colors in general) are most common, although sometimes they can be white with a pink or blue tint. Does the Betta react to your movement at all? Does it swim around quickly when seeing you, or does it merely sit at the bottom and sulk? Don't repeatedly tap the container, as doing so agitates the fish. Instead, try moving your finger back and forth in front of the Betta without aggravating it. Don't be afraid to buy a somewhat docile Betta though; they generally have many encounters with other people during their day, and may simply be resting. The average Betta bought in a pet store has been bred to withstand a lot of the hassles of a pet's lifestyle. Are its fins in good status, or are they torn or otherwise damaged? Keep in mind that some breeds have intricate fins, so they might look slightly torn. Are the Betta's eyes in good shape? Do you see any odd lumps (parasites) on its body? If you see anything highly out of the ordinary, consider another Betta. (it would also be helpful to talk to a store employee) Sometimes, the fish will choose you, not the other way around. If there is one Betta that you look at, set down, move on from it, but are drawn back to it repeatedly, consider buying it. Even if it is not completely healthy, buy the fish you feel connected to, rather than the healthiest one there. He will likely heal up once out of the tiny cup and gets a fresh start in warm, clean water. Part 2: Prepare Your Betta's Home (Coming Soon) Click to Post

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How to take care of Betta fish

Bettas, also well-known as "Siamese fighting fish", are popular pets recognized for their aggressiveness, interactivity, low cost for care and maintenance and hardiness. If taken really good care of , Betta fish can prove to be your best friend for up to three to four years. This eight part series will guide you to make sure your new pal has a great, happy and healthy life. Part 1: Learn About Betta Fish Part 2: Prepare Your Betta's Home Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 3) Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 4) Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 5) Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 6) Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 7) Coming Soon How to take care of Betta fish (Part 8) Coming Soon If you want a more technical detail on Betta fish, you can visit Betta Fish. Click to Post