By Asian standards, I am obese. Before arriving I was worried that I'd have to keep my shopping in check, but after visiting at least a dozen stores in search of a pair of shorts, it turns out overspending won't be a problem because Big & Tall hasn't reached the oversees market yet, and the only things they sell come in size ‘baby.’ Now I'm ok with 'being obese' by asian standards, but I draw the line at 'morbidly obese.' So after months of living abroad and being mocked by the baby sized clothing, I figured I should probably start some kind of exercise regime. I thought I could do yoga, but it turns out yoga overseas is a) only in heavily touristed places, and b) targeted towards broken white girls who have read "Eat, Pray, Love" too many times and are trying to 'find themselves' or 'heal' at an overpriced retreat owned by Europeans. On principle, I refuse to pay $10 for a one-hour yoga class in a place where the weekly salary of an employee is less than that. So with yoga out of the question, and gyms still being non-existent here, by process of elimination, that left running. Fuuuuck.
I've never been a good runner. I track my progress in minutes versus distance because for me, it's not an achievement of how far I've come, it is a painfully slow countdown until I can stop. But besides being generally bad a running, attempting to run in the remote corners of SE Asia has its own set of problems which I will outline for you here. I should say upfront that most of these are personal problems, which a more competent person could probably easily overcome. So let's get started!
As far as workout clothes go, I packed a single pair of tiny spandex shorts. I guess I was trying to save space or something? Regardless, they look like a homosexual European man's bathing suit, and I'm pretty sure wearing these in my current, very Buddhist location, makes me look like Borat at the beach. I would love to buy a pair of workout leggings, but the Hmong hill tribes don't happen make those, and even if they did, I'm sure they wouldn't make them in size 'obese'. So for now, homo-euro swimwear is my only choice. In an attempt to be culturally sensitive, I actually try and "sprint" past or duck when I see a statue of Buddha, as if this will minimize my chances of going to hell, or whatever the Buddhist version of that is.
Problem #2: Getting Motivated.
Music has always been a big motivator to work out. Usually I'll put on my headphones with an embarrassing Pandora radio station like Deadmau5 or Calvin Harris and just pretend I'm in da club getting fucking PUMPED. Easy right? Except I don't have 3G over here. So instead of getting AGG with streaming rave radio, I'm stuck listening to the Garden State soundtrack because the last time I purchased music was in high school and I was going through a lot of emotional shit ok? Whoever said that jogging is supposed to clear your mind clearly wasn't jogging to Bon Iver because that shit is SAD. Every old man, bird in a cage, or stray dog I pass sends me on an emotional roller coaster and I need to take a break already because I think I have something in my eye.
Problem #3: Explaining to locals that you are not in any immediate danger
When you get into the more remote parts of southeast asia, the concept of exercise becomes more and more foreign. For me, exercise is like a kind of repentance for living a life a leisure. I can't just ride motorbikes and eat out at restaurants and go sightseeing all day. I must temporarily punish myself for having it so easy. For the locals on the other hand, simply getting by is exhausting enough and running is only done out of extreme necessity. My first time jogging in Vietnam I was staying in a jungle town that doesn't see tourists. I'm used to the local people being curious about me, but this time, they weren't just curious, they were worried about me and wanted to help. Within the first few minutes of my jog I was chased down by an elderly man on a bicycle who actually got off and offered it to me because he thought I must have an emergency. None of this of course is in English, but you can get pretty far with hand signals. I tried my best to mime that I was ok, but this only led to more concerned citizens coming to my "rescue" on motorbikes. Someone actually offered me a beer to cool down. Someone else gave me their baby. I don't know what that was about, but it was a cute baby, so I held it anyway. At that point, my jog was over.
Problem #4: The Entourage
I attempted my second jog in a less rural area. This place had a school and a main (dirt) road and some kind of religious facility so I thought I might be able to fly a little more under the radar than my last attempt. Of course I was wrong. The people didn't try to stop me this time per say, they simply ran alongside me. I guess when you see on average less than one white person a year, this isn't something you want to miss. Children in uniforms left their classrooms to trail behind me, yelling, "HELLO MISTER!" (kind of a blow to the ego) along with about a dozen stray dogs. I was like the Forest Gump of Vietnam! Unfortunately, the parade didn't last long because after 15 minutes I was already maxed out. Having an entourage in itself isn't really a problem, its just a lot of pressure to put on a good show. Perhaps it was all in my head, but when I turned back I had the distinct feeling that what I previously thought were words of encouragement might have morphed into something more akin to aggressive heckling. I guess I’d be pissed if I ditched class to watch a white woman run and she didn’t make it three blocks. Better luck next time I guess. And by next time, I mean never.
The moral of the story is, don't exercise in a 3rd world country. It's culturally insensitive, emotionally draining, frightening for locals, and in the end, you will only end up a disappointment. Just accept your fatness for now, and move to somewhere like Kansas when you get back. I've heard that by Kansas standards, I am a super model.