preview version of May 2016 pants vs skirts tutorial. full version will be available here later.
sheepfilms
Misplaced Lens Cap

Kaledo Art
PUT YOUR BEARD IN MY MOUTH
Cosimo Galluzzi

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#extradirty
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Love Begins

izzy's playlists!

❣ Chile in a Photography ❣
official daine visual archive

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roma★
Peter Solarz
Monterey Bay Aquarium
Aqua Utopia|海の底で記憶を紡ぐ

shark vs the universe
Claire Keane
Sweet Seals For You, Always
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@fyeah-artreferences-blog
preview version of May 2016 pants vs skirts tutorial. full version will be available here later.
Gesture Studies, by Ben Li
Heather Theurer - http://disneyfineart.com/artists.php?aID=575theurer&p=3 - https://es-es.facebook.com/HeatherTheurerArtist - http://www.art.co.uk/gallery/id–a80098/heather-theurer-prints.htm
Comparative Spine Analysis
Feet + shoes reference by http://kitasite.net/
Dragon Heads Row 1 Row 2: Left, Right Row 3: Left, Middle, Right Row 4 Row 5 and 6
’What is hair and how i can render it?’
I got this question and I really wanted to show on very simple examples how to render hair. Because it really is… simple! Following this guide you will be able to paint hair in few minutes.
This is called the ribbon technique.
It is used by many artists out there. I just wanted to show you a couple of examples. As you can see I picked Adam Hughes and J. C. Leyendecker. Look at it and see how they paint the hair. It doesn’t look like a mop. It looks more like big, overlapping shapes organized in some fashion.
Try to imagine a string of hair like a ribbon. Ribbon symbolize a large portion of hair. Don’t focus on every single hair string, instead of this imagine it as bigger shape. It will catch light in highest point and it will have core shadows.
Establish where light is hitting the hair and where it turns dark. Start with big shapes. big brushes to get the lights and volumes right. Then You can go into details and paint small brush strokes to add details like single hair strings.
I attached two examples. First is very simple where you can clearly see and understand the similarity between hair and ribbon. Second example is theory put into practice. But it’s basically doing the same things as shown in simple example.
Let me know what you think about this?
I based my knowledge on James Gurney blog (author of Dinotopia and Light and Color book)
And for the example I used Faestock (from deviantart) photo.
A master post of Thomas Romain’s art tutorials.
There’s not enough space to post all of them, SO here’s links to everything he has posted (on twitter) so far : 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12.
Now that new semesters have started, I thought people might need these. Enjoy your lessons!
snowotter
How to repair Wacom Intuos 4 USB port
The wacom Intuos 4 is known for having issues with poorly attached mini-USB ports, and my tablet (Intuos 4 Large) finally broke down completely, as explained here wacom wanted hundreds of dollars to fix it.
Being a total newbie and never having soldered anything in my life I still managed to fix it for free. Instead of using the USB-connector I chose to bypass it completely and instead hard-wire the USB cables directly to the circuit board. This is a small guide for how to do that:
What you need: Soldering iron and solder. Tiny screw driver Plastic card (like a credit card) Wire cutter. (or anything to cut an USB wire) Glue.
How to do it: - Screw open the wacom tablet. Remember the screws under the rubber feet. - There are internal plastic clips located by the buttons. Use your plastic card to disengage them. Be careful not to snag any wires.
- Remove the back cover of the tablet. Find the broken USB port you want to bypass. - Cut the USB connector off your USB cable, we won’t be needing it. - Strip the wire to expose 4 smaller wires inside it. One red, green, black and white. - Strip a tiny bit of the smaller wires to expose the metal inside them. I melted away the plastic - Put some solder on the end of each wire and then solder them exactly like this diagram shows.
The circuit board of course have a lot of different stuff on it, chips, transistors and whatnot. But in this image I just drew the important ones that we will work with. Make sure you do not short circuit by using too much solder or having exposed metal from the wires touching each other.
- Glue the large USB wire to the plastic of the wacom tablet. - Screw it back together.
Done and done!
Update: Do you have a Medium or Small tablet? In that case solder like this:
in case any of you guys have this problem too
Please support me so I may continue making tutorials and guides for everyone!
https://www.patreon.com/doxydoo?ty=h
HEAD’S UP ARTISTS THAT RESIZE IN PHOTOSHOP. This really saved my life. I’d noticed that gross halo around art whenever I resized something but never knew how to get rid of it til Onta showed me and ahhhhh. I’m just so happy there was a solution to it so I really hope this helps others out too!! (also look at more cute bear faces I drew~)
YOU HAVE SAVED MY LIFE, I do some contract work often and I need to transform objects and layers all the time and I noticed this the other day that the quality of each element was going fuzzy and gross and It made me a bit like “oh crap wtf”
thank you!!
For those artist nerds.
Top Image Row 2 Row 3 Row 4 Row 5 Row 6, 7, & Bottom Image
For anyone who wants a free pose-able human reference for drawing
The other day I came across this awesome program by accident (I don’t even remember what I was actually searching for, but on the several times I’ve looked for a program like this I’ve had no luck). It’s cool enough that I wanted to share it.
It’s called DesignDoll (website here) and it’s a program that lets you shape and pose a human figure pretty much however you want.
There’s a trial version with no expiration date that can be downloaded for free, as well as the “pro license” version priced at $79. I’ve only had the free version for two days so far, so I’m not an expert and I haven’t figured out all of the features yet, but I’ve got the basics down. The website’s tutorials are actually pretty helpful for the basics, as well.
Here’s the page for download, which has a list of the features available in both versions.
There are three features the free version doesn’t have:
Can’t save OBJ files for export
Can’t download models and poses from Doll Atelier (a sharing site for users; note that the site is in Japanese, though)
It can’t load saved files
The third one means that if you make a pose, save it, and close the program, you can’t load that pose/modified model later. You have to start with the default model. I found that out when I tried to load a file from the day before (this is why reading is important…). Whether saving your modifications (and downloading models and poses) is worth $80 is up to you.
But, the default model is pretty nice and honestly if all you’re looking for is a basic pose reference it should work fairly well as it is. Here’s what it looks like:
There’s a pose tag that lets you drag each joint into place and rotate body parts. The torso and waist can be twisted separately, and it seems like everything pretty much follows the range of movement it would have on an actual human.
Even the entire shoulder area is actually movable along with the joint! See, like how the scapular area of the back raises with the arm:
The morphing tag is one of the coolest features, in my opinion. It lets you pick and choose from a library of pre-set forms for the head, chest, arms, legs, etc. It has some more realistic body shapes in addition to more anime-like ones. Don’t like the options there? Mix a few to get what you want! Each option has a slider that lets you blend as much or as little as you want into the design.
So you, too, can create beautiful things like kawaii Muscle-chan!!
The scale tag lets you mess with the proportions and connection points of different joints. This feature combined with the morphing feature not only allows more body shape variations, but it also means that you can do things like make a more digitigrade model if you want. (The feet only have an ankle joint, but for regular human poses that’s all that you really need, so whatever.)
Or you can make a weird chubby alien-like thing with giant hands and balloon tiddies if that’s more your thing.
The ability to pose hands to the extent it allows is far more than I could have hoped for from a free program. Seriously, you can change the position of each finger joint individually, as well as how spread out the fingers are from each other. Each crease on the diagram below is a point of movement, and the circles are for spread between fingers.
And to make it a bit more convenient, there’s a library of pre-set hand poses you can pick from as well, and then change the pose from that if you like.
In both versions, you can also import OBJ files from other places for the model to hold, like if you wanted to have them hold a sword or something.
Basically, this program is awesome and free and you should totally check it out if you want a good program for creating pose references.
fuckyeahcabbages
re-reblogging because YESS
Lighting tutorial (ENGLISH) by sadiek
The Psychology of Colour -
A Guide for Designers.
Haha pink!!
Trying to draw buildings
yo here’s a useful tip from your fellow art ho cynellis… use google sketchup to create a model of the room/building/town you’re trying to draw… then take a screenshot & use it as a reference! It’s simple & fun!
Sketchup is incredibly helpful. I can’t recommend it enough.
There’s a 3D model warehouse where you can download all kinds of stuff so you don’t have to build everything from scratch.
Introducing the new 2014.9 version of Armature Nine (A9)! Now available at www.armaturenine.com
Another Panel from David Petersen’s Legends of the Guard Vol 3 #4 out in June. This time I did a little walk through. Hope you enjoy it.