It’s been over half of a year, and I haven’t posted anything. I know there probably aren’t many readers out there, but I apologize greatly for this. The truth is that I actually got caught up in life, and even though I love skincare products, I didn’t really purchase any new products until November 2018 (Hello, Black Friday sales).
As per usual, I integrated each product into my skincare routine gradually. This means I tested a product for about 1-2 weeks before adding another new product. I do this to make sure that my skin doesn’t have an adverse reaction, and also to see how it affects my skin initially.
There are at least five new products I hope to post about soon (or you know, next year...).
I mean, I was pretty good in the beginning, but now I’m just not even posting at all. Let’s just say that life took over these past few weeks, and I’ve been filled with exhaustion and a lack of desire to look at a computer screen outside of work. Not to mention, my under-eye circles have gotten worse because I haven’t been sleeping well. I hope I can get back into the groove of things since I’m almost halfway through all of my products, and I’ve developed a good way of using these products on my skin.
Bear with me as I try to get back into the rhythm of things.
The Potato Diaries: How Do I Deal with Overexfoliation?
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide any of these are the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored post, and what is written is my honest opinion.
If you’ve been reading my posts, you know that my struggle with overexfoliation is real. I am constantly learning how to incorporate chemical exfoliators (BHAs) into my skincare routine, and it’s been a difficult battle. At this point, I think I’ve had overexfoliation symptoms at least 3 times since I started using Korean skincare...
What are My Symptoms?
Initially, I had no idea that I was overexfoliating my skin. I thought it was just really dry from the weather. However, with time, I learned that my symptoms are:
Dryness
Raw feeling
Pink
Tiny bumps
Before I experience these symptoms, my skin will be practically glowing. I have learned that if this glowing sort of look disappears and I get more red spots here and there (no change in the texture of my skin!), then I have to stop using whatever is exfoliating my skin.
So What Do I Do When I’ve Overexfoliated?
When you’ve overexfoliated, your skin is very vulnerable and thin. As such, it’s really important to be as gentle with your skin as you possibly can be. These are the steps I take when I have overexfoliated:
Use a gentle cleanser. In general, I use almost all gentle products when I’ve overexfoliated. I have a good amount of products designed for sensitive skin, and I turn to these products when my skin is experiencing anything adverse.
Stop using any exfoliating products. This sounds so obvious, but when I first experienced overexfoliation, I had no idea I was experiencing it. I continued to use one of my products that contained betaine salicylate, which is a form of BHA. This worsened my problem (duh!); if my skin was already thinned out, any exfoliation in my routine would make my skin worse. This also includes any products that speed up cell renewal, such as products with ascorbic acid (vitamin c) and retinoids (okay, I don’t use these anymore, but I think it’s worth a mention).
Hydrate as much as possible. My skin is always excessively dry whenever I’ve overexfoliated. It is so dry that it actually hurts a good amount. If my skin is so parched, it is basically screaming that it needs moisture. I pack on as much moisture as possible, applying a good moisturizing toner as much as 5-7 times at night. I love the Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Toner for this use. It is a toner developed for sensitive skin, and it works well with my skin. I also use a hydrating serum and apply a good amount of moisturizer.
Put on sun protection. I know that when my skin is uncomfortable and feeling raw, the last thing I want to do is put product on it, especially sun protection. However, it is so important!! If my skin is already vulnerable and thin, it is more susceptible to sun damage.
Even when the symptoms start to go away, I try my best to keep this sort of routine for at least 2-3 weeks. The reason for this is because skin cells have a cycle of about 28 days. It takes time to regenerate skin and get a healthy layer of skin cells. In my experience, if I’ve tried to use an exfoliator too early after my symptoms have gone away, then I actually get the symptoms back almost immediately (the next day). It’s just not worth it for me to experience that pain, so I just treat my skin as gently as possible for a few weeks.
Final Thoughts
Overexfoliation is no joke. It can really mess with your skin and lead to serious damage. The main thing is to remember not to panic and be as gentle as possible. Remember, exfoliation shouldn’t be done that often, and everyone’s skin is different (for example, apparently mine just doesn’t tolerate exfoliation more than once a week, and it doesn’t like “daily cleansers” with BHA being used on a daily basis).
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil: What is it?
Melaleuca Alternifolia, also known as Tea Tree, is known for its oil extracts. Tea tree leaf oil has been used as an antiseptic because of its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in present day as a method to treat acne in cosmetic products.
Products with Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil
COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser | Review
References
Carson, C. F., Hammer, K. A., Riley, T. V. (2006). Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) oil: a review of antimicrobial and other medicinal properties. Clinical Microbial Reviews, 19(1), 50-62.
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide this is the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored review, and what is written is my honest opinion.
How Did I Come Across This Product?
When I started searching for K-beauty products, I was pretty convinced that my skin type was sensitive. I searched around for different skin care lines that catered to sensitive skin, and the Etude House SoonJung Line was one of the product lines that caught my attention.
Among the products in the line, there is the Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Relief Toner. I actually ended up purchasing this toner with the the line’s 10-Free Moist Emulsion, which is why you’ll see them together in the photos throughout this post.
The SoonJung Toner is on the left and the SoonJung Emulsion is on the right. This is the only side of the product with information in English. It provides all the information you need to know though!
Etude House claims that this non-irritating, fragrance-free toner has a watery consistency that will:
Hydrate the skin, and
Cool the skin.
This is quite a short list, but the main thing to remember is that this is a product developed for sensitive skin types. This is reflected in the minimal ingredient list:
That’s only 14 ingredients, guys! And many wonderful ingredients that are proven to reduce inflammation and hydrate skin appear at the top of the list!
Furthermore, the low pH of this product will rebalance the skin’s pH (which is naturally between 5~6) and improve the skin environment (the skin acid mantle will be able to defend better against irritants and acne).
First Impressions - The First Week
To be honest, I didn’t add this product alone into my routine. I added it with other products from the SoonJung line because I actually managed to find a trial kit on sale. As such, my first impressions are really based on the entire line as a whole, but I’ll try my best to focus on how I felt about the toner when I first began to use it.
The SoonJung toner (and emulsion) arrived in very minimal packaging. I’m actually a fan of simple packaging, and so I loved this look!
Inside the white box was a clear bottle with a twist cap. When you remove the cap you can see that the clear bottle has the typical spout you see on most toner products. In my personal experience, it is very easy to control how much product you pour out of the bottle at any given time.
The spout on the toner (left) came with a seal to cover the opening and prevent leaking when the product is being shipped to its destination.
After cleansing my face, I applied the toner with my hands. I chose to do this because 1. I didn’t have any cotton pads at the time, and 2. when I finally got the cotton pads, I didn’t want to lose product using cotton pads. Go figure. Either way, I put toner in my palm, spread it ever so slightly between my two palms, and gently pressed my hands to my face. After that, I tapped lightly with my fingertips to promote absorption. The toner didn’t absorb immediately, but it did absorb pretty quickly. I could feel my skin drinking up the hydration, and it was definitely a nice feeling. Of course, my skin was left with a slightly sticky feeling, but as I’ve mentioned in my previous posts, I don’t mind that sort of thing. In a way, this told me that I wasn’t just putting water on my face since this product is fragrance-free.
My Thoughts After Long Term Use (2 Months)
I’ve used a few other toners before, but they were not Korean toners. Needless to say, they served different purposes. In the past, the toners I used stripped my skin with alcohol in an attempt to clean out my pores and gently sweep away dead skin. However, this toner does what many Korean toners do: it hydrates and rebalances the skin.
Putting on this toner is one of my favorite steps in my skincare routine because I can feel my skin absorbing the moisture it brings. In the beginning, I would only apply one layer of toner, but within a few weeks I began to apply it two or three times. When my skin is feeling extra dry or it needs a little more love, I apply it five to seven times!
Domo is shocked at the fact that I love this product. How can something that looks like water be so amazing?!
This toner really does do all that it claims it does; it calms and hydrates my skin. I may not have super sensitive skin, but I also haven’t had any adverse reactions to this toner either. Furthermore, when my skin is irritated, I turn to this product to help soothe and heal my skin.
Where Can I Buy This Product?
You can buy this product online through the following retailers:
Etude House
Soko Glam
Beautytap
Style Korean
YesStyle
Amazon
As always, please make sure that the seller best fits your needs and standards. There is also a smaller size of this product (80mL) that is called the “Easy Size.” I do believe that there are kits of products in this size if you’d like to try out other products in the SoonJung line. It would be great for travel or for just testing out the product(s). Finally, there is a trial kit available from certain sellers at times (like the one I purchased from StyleKorean).
Food For Thought
I know I’ve mentioned this so many times in my previous posts, but I’ll say it here again: I have a tendency to overexfoliate my skin. I’m still learning how to use BHA in my skin routine, and I’ve played around with the two products I have that actually contain BHA (COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads and COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser). Of course, right when I think I’ve gotten the hang of things, I experience the tell-tale symptoms of overexfoliation again...
When this happens, I am really happy I have this toner because it soothes my skin. I plan to rely on it in the future for when my skin has an adverse reaction to anything because it has worked really well for me these past few months. In a way, I am grateful that I thought I had sensitive skin when I first started looking for skincare products because now I have a regimen that is super gentle on my skin, and I know I can use these products whenever my skin is irritated. Of course, just because a product is marketed for sensitive skin doesn’t mean your skin won’t have an adverse reaction. It’s always a good idea to patch test just in case.
On an entirely different note, there is actually a trend where some people will purchase compacted sheet masks and soak them with their favorite toners to lengthen a product’s absorption time. Some also use thin cotton pads or layered cotton pads (which they then separate into thin layers) to make their own sheet masks. This makes sense since Korean toners are so hydrating! I would love to try this out someday because I really love this toner and I think it would be so fun.
I’ve been gone for about a little while now, but hopefully, I’ll be able to figure out a good schedule to create and post content soon. The main reason I’ve been MIA is because I tend to create my posts over the weekend, and my last weekend was actually quite busy. Although this weekend is sort of busy as well, I’ll try my best to write more posts!
Also, I noticed that COSRX has updated their website! It’s definitely more easier to navigate now. However, with this update, they also changed up the links to their products. I went through all of my posts to update the hyperlinks, and I hope I haven’t missed any! Please let me know if I have.
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide any of these are the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored post, and what is written is my honest opinion.
After you’ve been in the beauty world for a while, you’ll probably hear of something called retinoids. Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that can unclog pores and increase cell turnover. As a result, they are used for anti-aging and treatment of acne. If you’d like to read more about the different types of retinods, here is a link to a scientific journal article.
Now, I’m not really at that place in my life where I am legitimately concerned about fine lines and wrinkles. Instead, my journey with retinoids - specifically tretinoin - began because of acne.
I will post more in detail about my acne story later on, but the gist of it is that I broke out pretty uncontrollably, and I finally went to a dermatologist who prescribed me several medications, among which was tretinoin.
I received specific instructions for the tretinoin because of the different side effects I would experience as I began using it:
Even though the dermatologist prescribed the lowest concentration, it was important that I ease into using the tretinoin because it could cause a lot of irritation if I applied it every night right off the bat. As such, I was supposed to apply it every other night until my skin adjusted to it, at which point I could increase to every night.
Tretinoin degrades under sunlight, so it was important I only use it in the evening before going to bed.
With tretinoin use, my skin would become thinner and therefore photosensitive; in order to prevent sun damage, I should wear sunscreen.
I had to stay consistent with my use. Results with tretinoin take at least 2-3 months, and my skin would get worse before it got better.
So, What Happened?
Of all the medications the dermatologist prescribed to me, tretinoin was the only one I ever stuck with since the beginning. I’m not going to lie, it was a rollercoaster at first... However, I had faith it would get better.
I used tretinoin every other night for several weeks. Initially, the whole regimen the dermatologist gave me dried out my skin really badly. It was pretty frustrating (and painful!) because I was lacking so much information that I felt I should have known before I started using the medication. I had to learn with time, looking up others’ experiences on online forums and consulting the dermatologist when I had issues or questions.
In the end, I managed to figure out how to change my routine so my skin wasn’t in pain anymore (more on this towards the end of this post), but it was the beginning of a long road. I knew from all of my research that I would experience something called “purging” - all the acne that was forming in the lower layers of my skin would eventually get brought to the surface (remember, retinoinds increase cell turnover). That’s what the dermatologist meant by it’s going to get worse before it gets better.
So, that’s what happened. I did get more breakouts. My skin was flaking because the dead skin cells and surface skin cells were getting replaced by new skin cells, and it was always in a constant state of dryness. Let’s just say it wasn’t so pleasant during those first few months...
After I got through the purging, most of my acne stopped. I was left with hyperpigmentation and more acne scars. Actually, it’s quite ironic now that I think about it; although some of my smaller scars were gone, they were replaced with a new set of scars from the time I was purging. Well, at least the acne was gone, though, right?
I continued with tretinoin for at least another year. I kept the same concentration, and I figured I would just keep using it until my hyperpigmentation and my acne scars faded as much as possible.
What Was My Skin Routine?
As I mentioned earlier, my skin was really dry after I first used tretinoin. Well, no surprise there: tretinoin dries out your skin. I had a generic cream type, but it still had a good amount of alcohol content. When I was prescribed tretinoin, the directions that came with my medication stated that I had to wait 10-20 minutes after washing my face before applying the retinoid because if my skin was still wet, it could lead to more irritation.
That’s what I did at first; I washed my face with a "bland” cleanser, patted my face dry, and waited 20 minutes. Then I applied the tretinoin to my face and went to bed.
Needless to say, I had no idea how dry my skin would feel the next morning. After research, I learned to “buffer” the absorption: wash my face, wait 20 minutes, apply a layer of moisturizer (I chose Aveeno), apply the tretinoin, apply another layer of moisturizer (I chose Vaseline).
In the mornings, I would wash with a “bland” cleanser, moisturize and apply sunscreen. I would always wear a hat no matter where I went as well.
Even though this routine kept my skin in a better state, I still had some side effects:
My cheeks were usually a light pink. The dryness affected this area the most, and so they were the most sensitive to weather changes. They also flushed quite easily if I was nervous or excited about anything.
My skin was quite thin, so scarring could happen quite easily if I had any large inflammatory acne.
Another side effect that didn’t really affect me (but I feel I should state) is that tretinoin can lead to adverse birth defects, and as such, you shouldn’t use it if you are pregnant or trying to get pregnant. Your dermatologist and pharmacist should tell you this.
Why Did I Stop Using Tretinoin?
Despite the adverse effects of using such a drying medication on my face, I continued using tretinoin because in my case I saw results. I’m not saying that tretinoin is a holy grail product or that it miraculously made my skin flawless. What I am saying is that it did reduce the appearance of some scars and helped get my acne under control.
Another reason I stayed on tretinoin was because I was afraid. I was really scared of the acne coming back if I stopped using the medication, so I just kept using it. This paranoia stuck with me all the time, and every time I considered getting off of tretinoin, I would worry that the acne would return again.
What finally pushed me to stop using tretinoin was a combination of circumstances:
My medical insurance no longer covered prescription medications, even if they were a generic brand. I would be paying the full price, which was too large of a price jump for me budget-wise.
The pharmacy changed the generic brand they dispensed, and this new brand was much more irritating to my skin. After some digging, I learned that the previous generic brand I used was no longer being produced.
These two things occurred at the same time, and I realized that I was tired (and so was my skin). I needed to find a long-term solution that would benefit my skin more than harm it. So I came to the decision to stop using tretinoin.
Final Thoughts
I have never regretted my decision to use retinoids, and I never will. However, I wish I was more informed of how to use tretinoin, and I don’t know if I would recommend it to anyone right away. I know there are many benefits to using retinoids, but after a half year for me, the cons began to outweigh the pros, and I began to feel as though my skin was suffering. Even so, I hope what I’ve written here will help somehow (even though this was a really long post!).
What I can say for sure is that if you do consider using retinoids, please make sure you are well-informed and you consult with a professional before you decide whether or not it is the right path for you.
Propolis is actually a product from bees. As bees travel from different plants to collect pollen, they also accumulate a resinous substance from plants; this substance is propolis, and it is sometimes referred to as “bee glue.”
In nature, propolis is an integral part of constructing beehives. Among many other things, it is used to seal holes and cracks, smooth the interior and regulate the temperature of the beehive.
In cosmetic products, propolis and its extracts are utilized because of its anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Furthermore, it is also used in the treatment of various diseases because of these and other properties.
Products with Propolis Extract
COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads | Review
References
Pasupuleti, V. R., Sammugam, L., Ramesh, N., Gan, S. H. (2017). Honey, propolis, and royal jelly: a comprehensive review of their biological actions and health benefits. Oxidative Medicine and Cellular Longevity. https://doi.org/10.1155/2017/1259510
Crytomeria Japonica Leaf Extract comes from Japanese Cedar. This natural extract has already been proven to have many medicinal properties, such as anti-fungal and anti-microbial activity against several microorganisms. However, in cosmetics, it inhibits the growth of bacteria that can cause acne, while also reducing inflammation.
Products with Crytomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser | Review
References
Yoon, W. J., Kim S. S., Oh, T. H., Lee, N. H., Hyun, C. G. (2009). Cryptomeria japonica essential oil inhibits the growth of drug-resistant skin pathogens and LPS-induced nitric oxide and pro-inflammatory cytokine production. Polish Journal of Microbiology, 58 (1), 61-68.
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide this is the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored review, and what is written is my honest opinion.
How Did I Come Across This Product?
When I researched the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, I saw this product quite often. This was probably because it is actually one of the most raved-about products from COSRX! Do you know which product I’m talking about? If you don’t you’ll probably come across it in the K-beauty world eventually - the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser.
As per usual, I researched the product very thoroughly - reading reviews, looking up ingredients, and comparing those ingredients to what COSRX claims the product would do:
Gently cleanses the face of excess sebum and dead skin cells (aka flakiness) with Betaine Salicylate (BHA),
Leaves skin with hydration that lasts all day, and
Improves the skin environment and protects the skin’s barrier.
If we consider the product as a whole, it could really live up to these claims...
Gel cleansers are already quite mild and gentle on the skin, but at times, some can say that this type of cleanser can dry out skin. I suppose this is really based on each individual experience.
Our skin actually has a slight acidic environment; this is why mildly acidic products tend to advertise that they are “low pH.” This product claims that it is a pH of 5~6, which falls in line with our skin’s natural pH. If the product does have a “matching” pH, then our skin can actually thrive because the skin mantle can defend itself from irritants and acne.
Furthermore, the ingredients list reveals a good amount of wonderful ingredients that can nourish your skin:
Key ingredients that many K-beauty fans would recognize are betaine salicylate (BHA), tea tree leaf oil, allantoin, and saccharomyces ferment. As we know, COSRX caters to acne-prone skin, and tea tree leaf oil will definitely combat acne. Betaine salicylate will clean out pores, while allantoin and saccharomyces ferment will hydrate and nourish the skin. I also noted crytomeria japonica leaf extract because it has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects!
First Impressions - The First Week
There were so many positive reviews for the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser that I couldn’t help but be excited to try it out. At the time I received the product, I was using the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads and getting great results, too!
Now, I know that this product is meant to be used in the morning (I mean, it says so on the tube...), but I used it exclusively at night, and I followed with the Moisture Up Pads.
When I finally used the cleanser, I opened up the tube (sealed nicely) and squeezed a small amount into my palm. I massaged the cleanser in my hands until it was a nice lather, and then I massaged it onto my wet face. Now, I should tell you all now that I never used a product with tea tree leaf oil before, and the scent of this cleanser was pretty potent. I was shocked and confused by the medicinal piney scent, but I pushed forward and finished cleansing. Fortunately, the smell washed away with the rest of the product when I rinsed my face.
My skin definitely felt smoother after I rinsed off my face. However, within 24 hours, my skin had 3 or 4 small red bumps on my left cheek. While these these bumps were soothed and smoothed away when I applied the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, new ones would take their place every time I used the cleanser. By the third day, I was experiencing slight itchiness in the area, and my skin stung when I applied the Moisture Up Pads. It was at this point that I stopped using the cleanser, and the bumps cleared away completely.
My Thoughts After Long Term [Consistent] Use (1 Month)
My first impression seems pretty bleak. I was having some sort of adverse reaction to the product, right? Honestly, I don’t know for sure, but I believe that my skin was experiencing overexfoliation at the time (read my COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads review for a more detail on this).
After a few weeks, I decided to try out the cleanser again since I had a more established routine. I used it specifically where I was having stubborn acne instead of on my entire face, and these areas improved quickly. When I noticed there were no adverse effects in the areas I used the cleanser, I switched to cleansing the outer parts of my face (I was afraid of overexfoliating the areas that had just started getting better). When my skin had healed completely, I began to use the cleanser on my entire face.
The one thing I really want to point out is that when I began to reuse the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, the medicinal piney scent was not as potent as it was when I first tried out the product. I don’t know if this is because I expected the scent or if it just faded after I opened the product. Either way, I like scent at this point.
I am very confident that the cleanser keeps my the majority of my acne at bay. It leaves my skin smooth and supple, and the small dosage of BHA clears the stubborn blackheads I had on my nose since my teenage years. In terms of keeping my skin hydrated, I don’t believe it really does enough for my combination skin. However, I always follow up with many hydrating products, so that isn’t a big issue for me.
To see how I have incorporated it into my current routine (as of June 1, 2018), please click here!
Where Can I Buy This Product?
You can buy this product online through the following retailers:
Sokoglam
Wishtrend
Urban Outfitters
Beautytap
Amazon
Style Korean
Yesstyle
As always, please make sure that the seller best fits your needs and standards.
Food For Thought
The COSRX Low pH Good Morning Cleanser really opened my eyes to the world of low pH products. I never considered that my skincare could be too alkaline or too acidic for my skin before. Now, it is actually one of the first things I research when I am looking into a new product. In fact, I contacted customer service representatives in the past to get the pH of products! Why do I go so far for this information? I think it’s really important to have a healthy skin mantle in order to defend against anything that could cause irritation/acne, and as a consumer, I have the right to know how acidic/alkaline a product is before purchasing it.
As I mentioned in my COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads review, this cleanser and those pads were my first products with betaine salicylate (although I did use a cleanser with 2% salicylic acid in my teenage years). It definitely took some time for me to figure out how to incorporate these two products into my skincare routine, but after I’ve established the best way to use them on my skin, I’ve seen improvements. As such, I really want to reiterate and caution you all to take your time if you are new to chemical exfoliators.
The Potato Diaries: How did I Build my Current Skincare Routine?
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide any of these are the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored post, and what is written is my honest opinion.
Hello, readers!
I wanted to post my current skincare routine and how I built it. Of course, it is still a work in progress, but I’ve seen a lot of wonderful improvements after I switched to K-beauty products.
Just so you (and I) have a point of reference, I’m going to fill out the following form:
Current skin type: combination
Main skin concerns:
Dryness/redness localized at inner cheeks
Acne scarring (hyperpigmentation and indentation)
Acne (blackheads and inflammatory)
Large pores
What is my Current Skincare Routine?
For the morning, my routine is as follows:
Oil-based cleanser/make-up remover: N/A
Water-based cleanser: Dove White Beauty Bar
Exfoliator: I don’t exfoliate in the morning
Toner: Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Relief Toner (applied 2x with hands)
Eye cream: Innisfree Orchid Eye Cream
Essence: N/A
Treatment: Innisfree Jeju Lava Seawater Essence (only applied to U-zone)*
Sheet mask: I don’t use sheet masks in the morning
Moisturizer: Etude House SoonJung 10 Free Moist Emulsion (only applied to U-zone), A’PIEU Madecassoside Cream (only applied to cheeks)
Sun Protection: AVON Anew Vitale Day Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 25
For the evening, my routine is pretty similar:
Oil-based cleanser/make-up remover: N/A
Water-based cleanser: Dove White Beauty Bar, then COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser | Review (EDIT: I don’t use the COSRX Gel Cleanser every evening anymore. I use it when my skin feels rough or is dull. This is probably only 1-2 times a week)
Exfoliator: COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads (1-2 times a week) | Review
Toner: Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Relief Toner (applied 2x with hands, but if using the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, I apply only once with hands)
Eye cream: Innisfree Orchid Eye Cream
Essence: N/A
Treatment: Innisfree Jeju Lava Seawater Essence*
Sheet mask: I don’t use sheet masks every night. Actually, I haven’t used any since I started building my routine!
Moisturizer: Etude House SoonJung 10 Free Moist Emulsion, A’PIEU Madecassoside Cream (only applied to cheeks)
Sun Protection: I don’t use sun protection at night
This is technically a treatment, but I apply at the end: Etude House SoonJung 5-Panthensoside Cica Balm (spot treatment for acne and hyperpigmentation)
*Yes, I know that the Innisfree Jeju Lava Seawater Essence seems like it belongs in the “Essence” step, but it is actually a serum! The Innisfree U.S.A. calls it the “Moisture-Volumizing Serum with Lava Seawater.”
How Did I Build My Skincare Routine?
As you can see above, I use quite a lot of products (at least ten!), and I did not list some of the other little things I do, such as my wash-off aloe mask after I shower. However, don’t let the amount of products overwhelm you! Here are my main tips on building a skincare routine:
Take your time. It’s easy to get excited about using a new product you’ve just received in the mail, especially when it could be a potential solution to your skin problems! I’m here to warn you that you should really take your time testing products before you jump into using a new product. When I began building my routine, I only added one product at a time to my existing routine, and I used it for at least a week before I added another one. This really gave me time to assess whether the product had any adverse effects for my skin or not. It also let me know if the product really helped my skin or if it did nothing at all.
Consider your skin goals; what concerns do you want to address? When you really narrow down what you want to improve, you immediately have direction on what type of products you should be searching for. As I listed in the beginning of the post, I have numerous skin concerns. However, when I set off researching skincare products, I kept in mind the main things I wanted to address as soon as possible - dry and dehydrated skin and acne. Knowing these were my concerns, I searched for products/ingredients that would hydrate/calm my skin and prevent acne.
Listen to your skin. You will know if the product just doesn’t work with your skin by seeing how your skin reacts. You will also know if a product is too heavy or too light if you listen to your skin. For example, When I began using the Etude House SoonJung line, I noticed my skin was not getting enough hydration because my skin felt dry in specific areas when I woke up in the morning. I learned that I needed to supplement these areas with an extra layer of moisturizer until I could get my hands on a different product that would offer more hydration.
Know your skin type. There are many products out there, but most of the time they are designed for a specific skin type. If you know what skin type you are, it can really help you figure out which products are best for you, and where you should concentrate certain products. Initially, I believed I had dry, sensitive skin, so I applied products over my entire face evenly. However, within a week, I began to get small comedones on my forehead and my T-zone was very shiny by the end of the day. After I stopped adding these extra hydrating steps to my T-zone in the morning, my acne cleared up within a few days. This just solidified the fact that I have combination skin.
I hope these tips are helpful for you! Please keep in mind that it really takes a lot of time to see results when you begin using new products. In fact, it can take at least a month or two to really see changes/improvements, so give your products a chance to work their magic.
Allantoin is a product from the oxidation of uric acid. It can be isolated from animal urine (okay, don’t freak out - it’s safe for use!) and plants, or be produced synthetically. Research has proven that allantoin promotes wound-healing, alleviates skin irritation, and stimulates healthy tissue growth.
Products with Allantoin
COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads | Review
COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser | Review
References
Araújo, L. U., Grabe-Guimarães, A., Mosqueira, V. C., Carneiro, C. M., Silva-Barcellos, N. M. (2010). Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin. Acta Cirurgica Brasileira, 25 (5). http://dx.doi.org/10.1590/S0102-86502010000500014
Becker, L. C., Bergfield, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Klaassen, C. D., Marks, J. G., Jr., Shank, R. C., . . ., Anderson, F. A. (2010). Final report of the safety assessment of allantoin and its related complexes. International Journal of Toxicology, 29, 84S-97S.
National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Database; CID=204, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/204 (accessed May 27, 2018).
Disclaimer: I am not a licensed esthetician or dermatologist, and as such, all thoughts disclosed on this blog are not prescriptive. Each person’s skin is different, so please patch test if you decide this is the right product for you.
This is also not a sponsored review, and what is written is my honest opinion.
How Did I Come Across This Product?
When I first began my skincare journey, I had no idea where I was going. There was a sea of brands and products, and I was pretty much lost and kind of drowning. I was feeling pressure to purchase something since I stopped using tretinoin to treat my acne, and the paranoia of my acne returning was causing stress.
I turned to my friend who had more experience with K-beauty products, and she recommended the brand COSRX to me. COSRX? I’d never heard of it before!
COSRX is a brand focused on treating acne-prone skin with chemical exfoliators (AHA, BHA, and now, PHA), while also using minimal ingredient lists and providing good value at a decent cost.
She recommended the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, a product she herself had just started using. I researched the product, and this is what COSRX claims it would do:
Treat (Hydrate) dehydrated and delicate skin with Propolis Extract and Hyaluronic Acid, and
Gently exfoliate and smooth skin with Betaine Salicylate (BHA).
This sounded like a good fit for what my skin goals were; my acne was caused by a lack of exfoliation, and it was dry from my medicine. I looked over the ingredient list:
The active ingredients are obviously there, but there are also some other great ingredients that are quite underrated in my opinion - Panthenol and Allantoin. Both of these ingredients definitely contribute to the idea that these Moisture Up Pads are indeed hydrating.
First Impressions - The First Week
When I first received the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads in the mail, I was pretty excited. This was my first official K-beauty product, and I was sure it was going to be great. After all, I had done a significant amount of research and read a ton of reviews from different sources.
The packaging is charming in that it is simple and clean. Inside the box is the plastic jar, which when opened reveals the product is sealed. Remove the seal, and there is a beautiful stack of the pads, 70 in all.
The pads are neatly stacked and soaked thoroughly with essence! You can still see a small bit of the seal on the left that I didn’t bother to remove.
I used the product as a toner as instructed, gently swiping the product from the central to the outer parts of my face with the embossed side, and then repeating with the smooth side. Then I took my fingertips and gently tapped around my face to promote absorption. There was no pilling or anything with the pads, and the scent is a light citrusy fragrance (most likely from the lemon peel oil).
There was a small amount of tingling in various areas after I applied the product, and my skin was also a little tacky (sticky). I waited about 10-15 minutes before applying my moisturizer, and then I went to bed.
Here are my reports from the first few days:
Day 1: Skin is more moist, but there is no other major change.
Day 2: Acne I had developed (while I was off tretinoin and not using any exfoliating products) have shrunk a considerable amount and are less red.
Day 3: Skin is more evenly toned and brighter.
From my progress in the first week, I felt that the product was definitely combating my acne while exfoliating.
My Thoughts After Long Term Use (3 Months)
I’ll be honest, it’s been tricky figuring out how to integrate any chemical exfoliator (namely, BHA in my case) into my skincare routine. Although my results from the first week of using the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads were wonderful, I ran into a little problem called overexfoliation.
You see, my skin was already thin from using tretinoin for so long, and it wasn’t used to using a different type of exfoliator on a daily basis. So after using the pads for a week and a half, I had the tell-tale signs of overexfoliation all over my inner cheeks - redness, raw feeling and dryness. It probably didn’t help that I got overeager and used another COSRX product with BHA (COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser) after my premature first week “success,” but I digress..
I discovered after a few weeks of testing that I could tolerate using the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads once a week, and this was only after I let my skin heal from overexfoliation (about 3-4 weeks for me). Now, I can use it twice a week if I’d like, but I still tend to only use it once a week since my cleanser has BHA (yes, this cleanser is the same one mentioned above!).
When I do use the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, I noticed that my skin consistently feels more hydrated and brighter the next day. It also reduces any acne I may have had, whether it be small little clogged pores or inflammatory acne. As such, in my experience it really does do what it’s supposed to do.
Where Can I Buy This Product?
You can buy this product online through the following retailers:
Sokoglam
Wishtrend
Urban Outfitters
Beautytap
Amazon
Style Korean
Yesstyle
As always, please make sure that the seller best fits your needs and standards. I also believe there is a newer product that is called the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Kit, which will let you test out the product on a smaller scale.
Food For Thought
I really believe that this is a good product when used correctly. I would really ease into it and just be careful if you are new to any chemical exfoliator.
Betaine salicylate is a more gentle form of BHAs (say, when compared to salicylic acid), but it is still a chemical exfoliator. Actually, in my teenage years, I used a cleanser with 2% salicylic acid, but even so, I experienced overexfoliation. After using the COSRX Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser, I’ve come to realize that perhaps another possible contributing factor is that with the COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads, the BHA was left on my face overnight, whereas with a cleanser, it is partially washed off. That would mean with the pads, my skin received a larger dose of BHA for a longer period of time compared to a cleanser. Of course, this is just speculation.
Panthenol is the alcohol form of pantothenic acid, which is also known as Vitamin B5. It is sometimes called “provitamin B5,″ and it has been proven to bring moisture to skin and hold it there.
Products with Panthenol
COSRX One Step Moisture Up Pads | Review
Etude House SoonJung pH 5.5 Relief Toner | Review
References
Camargo, F. B., Jr., Gaspar, L. R., & Campos, P. M. (2011). Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 62, 361-369.
National Center for Biotechnology Information. PubChem Compound Database; CID=4678, https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/4678 (accessed May 27, 2018).
This tumblr hasn’t gone live yet, but some posts will be coming out soon! I’m still deciding on a theme that I’d like, and I really like the look of this one right now!
As you can see, there is a side bar that lists the different parts of the Korean 10-step skincare routine. I condensed it to only eight sections at the moment, mainly because I haven’t tried products from all ten steps yet. However, the list is in the order I would typically apply my products! Furthermore, the links will lead to tagged posts that are associated with each step so you’ll be able to navigate the blog more easily.
I’m trying my best to build a new blog dedicated to my experiences with Korean beauty products. However, I’m still working out the small little issues I come across, so please forgive me. I hope that I’ll be able to iron out the small details as I go on.
I’m not sure if tumblr is the best platform for me to use, but let’s just give this a go!
Happy Pretty Potatoes @happyprettypotatoes - Tumblr Blog | Tumgag
