Heading into the city centre you hear
More Arabic spoken than you do English.
Schools opening up for the day. Shops
Opening their shutters. Your first destination
Is Grainger Market. Itâs just blinking
Awake when you get there, with the folks
Setting up their stalls. The wealthy greens
of the fruit and veg stalls and the violent
Reds of the local butchers; the open slabs
Of dead animal directly on display.
But this building is made fantastically,
Within the glass conical rooftop that lets
The sunlight down. A feat of architecture
Youâd never be capable of.
Tobacco shops; battery shops; local ale
Shops; soccer stores with the strips when
The side were decent. [And that football
Stadium canât be ignored with its lurking
Giant presence whence in central grounds.]
You head out the market and southward
To the river. And you pass a huge ugly building
With tabloid newspaper logos in the windows.
METRO, Chronicle, Sun; except the windows
Are boarded up with plywood. And thereâs
Nobody inside the building. So, itâs a defunct
Media joint? Who knows. Whatever the case,
The building looks suspended in the early
2000s, if you were to strip away the plywood.
You get to the famous Tyne Bridge. And
Itâs about as un-touristy as possible, with
Refurbishments in place. The Tyne itself is on
Full volume in witchy vomit green far underneath.
You head over that bridge and then cross east to
Go back over the railroad bridge, where you
Can pedestrian underneath the train track.
And this is far prettier, with the shadowy angles
Of the bridge architecture crossing you
Sunlight and dark. And many people have
Stuck padlocks to the bridge. Love padlocks.
Good for them. It is far harder to break a
Padlock than somebody elseâs heart.
At the end of this bridge there is the castle
That the town was named after. Of course,
Itâs bonny in an atavistic manner. And there are
Ancient walls that dip down to the river,
Also wise and nice looking. But theyâre
Also plugged up with graffiti and alcohol.
Empty alcohol cans and bottles under the
Bridges where folks have come to party.
And spray painted initials on the walls
That were built 1000 years earlier.
Why would you spraypaint on a medieval
Building? Itâs fairly scandalous. And,
Seriously, the amount of trash that is
Left right next to the âmain tourist attraction
Of the cityâ is staggering. Youâd think there
Would be some respect for the area. Hey ho.
But not ever city has to be a tourist city.
No problem. Just the way it is. Put it this way:
You wouldnât come back here at night.
Letâs yomp back to the hotel for just now.
Itâs like being in The Shining, walking about
The silent empty corridors. The only resident
In a building of 50 plus rooms. You wake up
Somewhere early morning and forget where
You are and then, needing a pee, head down
To the W/C and youâre half expecting the
Ghosts of two girls to pop out glowing at the
End of the hallway, to chant your name.
The theme of solitude is playing on you in
General; which can happen when you travel
Alone. Nobody around here has a Scottish
Accent. You havenât spoken to anybody in
Days. And the dark history of adolescence
Comes back. The familial bullying.
Everybody else laughing at you around the
Dinner table. Aggressive mockery whenever
You try to say something. And now youâre
In the Northernmost English city, still solitary
And the annals of depression prickle you,
When youâre supposed to be on holiday.
In the morning you hear rain spattering
The window. Thereâs a free art gallery the
Other side of the Tyne and so letâs head there.
Baltic Contemporary Arts. Why itâs called
That is bemusing. Whatâs the Baltic region
Got to do with Newcastle? Inside the gallery
You donate to the donation box. To help
Keep the joint free to access. We definitely
Need things like accessible galleries and
Libraries in the 21st century United Kingdom.
The first floor shows paintings from some
Local artist. Sheâs there, manning the exhibition;
Some senior lady with red hair. The paintings
Are cryptic, interrupted with letters. You donât
Really get the content but itâs worth a mosey.
The second floor grows darker. The instant
You head through the rooms the light
Plunges and thereâs a sign saying:
THE FILMS IN THIS ROOM SHOW
CONTENT INVOLVING VIOLENCE
VIEWERS MAY FIND UPSETTING.
You head into a long room with three
Different films playing around the walls.
One of them is in black and white,
Showing a clip of Vladamir Lenin,
For some reason, followed by subsequent
Clips of disconnected civilian scenes.
And thereâs no dialogue. But thereâs
A nightmarish soundtrack overhead.
The characters seem angsty, embattled;
And you werenât really expecting
Soviet art house cinema when coming
To this city, but, there you go.
[There is no immediate violence in the
20 minutes you spend in the theatre,
Apart from some man with blood
Stains zigzagged down his face, from
Some blow that you didnât see.]
After the gallery you head back into the
City centre and you cross several people
Lying in sleeping bags on the street.
The U.K. has over 350 000 homeless
People struggling to get by, and itâs also
In the top ten richest nations in the world.
On passing the local restaurants and pubs,
None of the restaurants are English.
Vietnamese joints. Vietnam pops up a lot,
And thereâs a Chinatown too. Different
Ethnicities come to the U.K. because of its
Wealth; people can migrate here and earn
A living because of the beneficial value
Of the ÂŁPound; and there are still over three
Hundred thousand people sleeping rough,
The examples of which you can see
A hundred yards down the street.
Aside from everything urban, the U.K.
Trees are glorious in the May weather.
Horse chestnut trees abloom with their
Chariot foliage. And as you return home
The local park is having its grass cut, and the
Smell of cut grass is idiosyncratic,
And British in its own sentient way.