2024: The Year of the Horse Girl
My roommate and I sat cross legged on the floor of the living room, Old Fashioneds in hand, and imposing on her -- not for the first time - my fascination for fashion shows.
"The fun," I told her, "is figuring out the theme and inspiration as it unfolds."
I flicked through some of the most memorable shows of recent memory as I explained their significance: the Amiri Autumn 2021 Runway Film representing the very best of fashion presentations adapted for global work-from-home mandates. The Anna Sui show in the Rare Books Room of The Strand, fashion's response to the rise in celebrity book clubs.
We stopped on the Hermès Fall/Winter 2023-24 Ready to Wear show and I let her watch without exposition. "Just... look."
Visual poetry unfolded in our living room big screen as a line of sleek, aristocratic models clopped by in brushed coats ranging from chestnut and bay to brindle and grey. Minimalist lines and monochrome ensembles allowed the leather craft to take center stage, with snaffle bit inspired hardware gleaming.
After observing several of these details my impatience got the best of me. "Do you get the theme yet?" I asked her, expectantly. "Horsies!"
My friend, a veterinary doctor was either not convinced, or not impressed, but the impact of this zoomorphic runway show left a memorable impression on me months later. Of all the details, I was most struck by the hair styling choices: gorgeous manes in all colors and lengths, shining and elegant in its simplicity.
Perhaps it struck me because of all the aspirational elements of an Hermes show, this beauty seemed the most achievable. It sometimes takes time for a creative vision to trickle into the consciousness of our daily habits, but I found habits changing. For months, I have been drawn to shiny silk fabrics, slim cut wools, and polished leather accessories, designed to "wear in" not wear out. Instead of a tight curl, fortified with extra hold mousse, I have switched to a brushed curl, reminiscent of the soft glamor of Veronica Lake and other old hollywood beauties. I returned to the cost-saving conditioner of my childhood, Mane N' Tail.
There is something incredibly validating about a high fashion brand appreciation for an achievable, natural beauty standard. With a diverse and inclusive cast, the brand celebrated the beauty and expressive nature of all types of hair. It was tasteful, inclusive without tokenizing, and remarkably cohesive, with each look contributing to the theme of beauty, athleticism, and movement. Each model became zoomorphic, majestic, and a perfect reflection of the brand.
"The horse is our top priority, followed by the rider", said Jean-Louis Dumas, grandson of Emile Hermès.
It's clear that 2024 is the year of the cowgirl, with Cowboy Carter in every millennial's spotify queue and Pharell's reimagining a western wardrobe for a modern audience with Louis Vuitton.
But these romantic allusions to cowboy culture, the freedom of the wild west, and the raw power and skill involved in ranching and riding are vivid metaphors for an audience craving personal agency. At Hermes, however, the line between horse and rider disappeared for nine brief minutes, reminding us we are not the ones that control the power, but that incredible horsepower resides in each of us.
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