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@jeremylyonsmusic
Big Dreams of Small Stages
There was nothing up till then, and nothing since, like that feeling. Going out to the spot, whether in the morning with your guitar and chair, anticipating the show, the thrill of drawing a crowd, of the first fresh set, wondering if it'll be a good day, a Ben Franklin day, or if the cops will give you trouble, or if it'll rain, or something; or even if it's midnight, or 2, three, or four in the morning, and you’re going out there to claim your spot, or spell your friend and take the next shift... And the goddamn drunks from Bourbon who wandered a little off the beaten path by taking the path of least resistance and scratch their heads and you try to look invisible or they'll start asking you where they are, and is that a guitar in that case? Do you play guitar? Play us something, man. Play us something really...You know!... Or the homeless Vietnamese lady, the crazy one, or is she just scared and desperate?... crouched in a corner. The smell of piss and cigarettes and stale beer and puked up hurricanes and shrimp étouffée. The smell of the disinfectant they pour on the sidewalk; the mule dung in the middle of the street. The beautiful, ugly smells of blossoms putrefying in the heat; night blooming jessamine, rotting magnolia, mixed with cigars and marijuana, blackened food and human bodies baked in the sun. The place smells of decay and sin and flowers.
You're walking through this and right into the heart of it and sitting out there by yourself for a couple hours and claiming that spot in time and space as yours, waiting for the band. In the heart of the most frighteningly alive goddamn city in North America. And I am an anonymous contributor. A mote, riding a breeze. In a few years, I will be dust and gone and someone else will be playing out here.
I have never been braver in my life.
Knowing that on this spot, you are on the greatest stage, on the unknown stage of the human thoroughfare, where it's not what your name is, or how your record is doing; not about selling tickets or beer or pleasing the management by putting up flyers and punching a clock, for a few beers and a few bucks. Christ, these people aren't there to see you. They come to see what the city has to offer, so you get on that spot where 80% of visitors pass through, and you get to be part of the magic. And you make that money.
Channeling, chiming, on this spot; listening to and singing along with the ones who came before. Reiterating, restating, altering a little; having the audacity to try and figure out how to do it your own way, to find your voice from singing the songs thousands have sung before you, and again by singing the songs that no one else is singing- The Not Standards: the ones that fell between the cracks, that got left behind at the bar. To be a champion of a forgotten song, and bring a song back life...
You are one solid being on this spot, at this moment, in a space occupied by spirits: beings who existed here in another time, and perhaps are still here in a different dimension. This spot, this piece of real estate, this cubic yard of space where I sit and wait to sing was inhabited before all of you songsters, buglers, marchers, writers, shouters, street vendors... This very spot still inhabited by the vibrations/mojo - whatever - of every saint and sinner that once walked these streets. This spot looks much as it did 30, 50, 100... 300 years ago. And before that, this spot may have been the home of some Choctaw or Chitimacha; and the bugler, the songster, the saint who tread here 300 years ago may have been listening to the humming and chiming of that Indian that came 100 years before that. Maybe it's my destiny to sit on the spot. (Please, let it be my destiny.)
How can you not play against that backdrop? You want to sing it, sketch it, paint it, draw it, play it.
But all that is just in the back of your mind. You are out there to play and to watch those dollars fall into the case. If they don't fall there, you are free to go or stay as you like. There are no bosses other than Necessity, and Desire. $$$
And the cops.
Tuba Fats
Tuba Fats was the king of Traditional Jazz on the street. Not that there were many other bands doing it out there at the time (for much of the '90s, brass bands were not permitted to play on the streets in the French Quarter, for “noise complaints”), but even if there had been he still would have reigned supreme. Everyone treated him with respect, at least everyone who counted. Having worked the street for decades he knew and was on good terms with the old cops on the Quarter beat, at any rate – even mean old Sergeant Alesich and Asa, his peer on the force – my knowledge at the time hardly extended beyond the Quarter, but if the size of his second line funeral procession is any gauge, Tuba was one of the most loved musicians in town. Augie thought the world of Fats, and of his wife Linda, whom Augie adored.
Anthony “Tuba Fats” Lacen was a very well respected member of the music community. He, along with future members of the Dirty Dozen and Hurricane Brass Bands, and Wynton and Branford Marsalis, had been a member of the legendary Fairview Baptist Church Marching Band, organized by the great guitar player and Jazz Historian Danny Barker. “Tuba” and many of his fellow alumni periodically worked at Preservation Hall. (The first time I saw him was at the Hall, possibly when I saw the Willie Humphrey play with Wendell Brunius on my first visit the weekend of NYE 1989, possibly in '92.) Tuba played with a bunch of bands, as did many brass players – Olympia Brass Band, Doc Paulin, Trémé, and so on.
Tuba Fat's group was officially known as “The Chosen Few Brass Band” (or sometimes “...Jazz Band”). He always had a great group of players. At the time I started seeing them they were an interesting mix, if a bit ragged: regular members were of varying age ilk – old and young; white, black, Creole and Japanese. Trad players would generally leave the street for a paid gig indoors or in one of the open-air tourist traps on Decatur, so there was a lot of turnover.
Tuba Fats typically set up on the opposite side of the square from us. At the time I arrived they were restoring the Cabildo – one of the two historic buildings, along with the Presbeteyre, that flank the Saint Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square – so there was a lot of construction noise on that side. Often Tuba found it very difficult to play because of the noise but also because they had erected a wooden wall around the area of the steps in front of the building where people would typically sit and watch the band. The Big Mess liked to set up in a “U” formation using the benches opposite each other, and a light post between them as center stage, facing the opposite side of the square (“Uptown”); Tuba’s band typically set up in a row of one or two benches, facing towards the Cabildo (or the Lake, more or less).
The first time I played on the square I was on that side, in front of the Cabildo, with Mickey “Slewfoot” McLaughlin. Before I joined the Mess I often played that spot with Mickey and his crew; Mickey’s band that year was almost a farm team for the Big Mess – younger players like myself would play with Mickey while we were hoping to pick up sets with some of the members of the Big Mess, or after we had been banished once Augie and the other senior Mess members arrived. Or if Lissa and Scotty were doing an early set of Ragtime, Johnny and I would go to the other side for a little while. Or vice versa. That spot was harder to work as a string band, with all that construction din; it’s easier for horns to cut through. But Tuba found it very frustrating that year, and often didn't bother to come out, or you'd see his battered horn holding down the spot on the benches, while he waited for a pause in the construction work, or for his band to arrive.
Some weekends Tuba did not come out and his band would play without him. They didn’t have as much clout without the big man, – it was Tuba's spot, but if he wasn't there it was up for grabs – so often they’d have to wait for him to appear to get their turn, or for the string band to get tired. Tuba did a fair bit of international touring, especially in the summer, and took indoor jobs when they came his way. But when Tuba showed up on the Square, you gave him the spot. Everyone knew it was Tuba's spot. Seniority meant something.
In the first band I saw him with he had a couple of really great Japanese players. I don’t recall her name, but a young woman used to roll a little spinet piano out there. I believe she still lives and plays in New Orleans. And Hiro, also from Japan, played really great tenor banjo. He was out there all the time. His clothes got ragged and his skin was baked a dark rust color by the end of the season. The almost inseparable duo of Bear and Banjo Mike were playing with Tuba in the beginning of my tenure out there. That was Bear on cornet (and pills) and Banjo Mike, with his red and white candy striped shirt, overalls and tattered straw hat, on tenor banjo (and vodka); also Scotty Hill on trombone and Jerry “Flipper” Meldrum on tenor. Scotty and Flip were a couple of middle aged, apparently hard drinking white guys that had been playing in the quarters since the 70s. Sometimes Tuba had Jerry “Barbarin” Anderson (who also played with the Big Mess) on drums, or a couple guys on snare and bass drum duty.
After a couple years Tuba’s band had a bit of a turnover. Mike died from the drink, Bear (who could barely hang with Tuba's crew) no longer found a place in the band and eventually OD’d; Scotty and Flipper worked a lot on Decatur Street. When Andy had lost the bass job with the Big Mess after taking an inside gig for about a year, he joined Tuba Fats’ band. Tuba often had a string bass or a sousaphone play with him because he did a lot of singing. He was a very melodic, creative player and would be able to weave around them and solo. I've heard it said that he wrote the book on modern New Orleans tuba stylings. (I'm certainly no expert, and Kirk Joseph's role cannot be ignored either.)
When the band got big they would typically spread out over a couple of benches, making for a really enjoyable stereo experience if you were seated on the steps in front of the Cabildo (after they had finished construction). Keith “Wolf” Anderson (a founding member of Rebirth and a fun showman) played on the Square a lot from about my second year on. He was in Tuba’s large band of the mid-90s, which besides Hiro, Andy, Tuba and Wolf often included Jack Fine on trumpet (Jack was a real old and crusty fuck who is a hell of a player), Joe Braun on alto sax, John Rodley on guitar, Dwayne Paulin on trombone, occasionally his brother Ricky on clarinet, sometimes Glen David Andrews or other trombone players. (Later a kid named Seva moved to town and bought Augie's ;ast real National guitar Norman had found cheap in Kentucky.) Tuba’d often end up with sections: two or three guys on banjo and/or guitar, Andy and Tuba on string bass and horn, a snare and bass drum, two trombones, tenor and alto sax, trumpet and cornet. Or something like that.
By that time the Big Mess had been back on Royal Street for a couple of years, since construction in the Quarter had prevented the street from being closed off during the day, and we were stuck on the Square. And Tuba's band then was incredible. There was nothing like it to be found anywhere else in town – it was not technically a brass band, at least not in the traditional sense, and it was bigger than most jazz bands that were playing at the time. “Commie” Paul Kemnitz (I believe Bobby Lewis came up with the moniker, due to the Milwaukeean's propensity to spout revolutionary platitudes between songs) played in Tuba’s band quite a bit when he had moved to town and was a floater, sometimes playing with us, sometimes solo, until he got a steady gig with us. And just before our band completely disintegrated in '97 he quit and started playing with Tuba again, and later Doreen and Lawrence Ketchens. Paul is a brilliant multi-instrumentalist.
Tuba’s wonderful wife Linda Young sang with him in the old days, sometimes just a few songs, until she tragically fell ill and died of cancer. Linda was as sweet as her man, and they were very much in love. She was big and beautiful and had a wonderful voice. Wikipedia has her as a “blues shouter,” which I suppose she was, but what I remember is the Gospel. When she died, a few years after I joined the street scene, some said Tuba was never the same again.
Tuba Fats was a gracious man. He was really one of the sweetest people I’ve ever met. He always remembered you and he always had a smile and a laugh, even if he was sweating bullets out there in the heat (he must have weighed three hundred pounds, but never seemed to me to be grossly overweight – he was genuinely a giant) and not making much money. One time he had no band and wandered across the Square to say hey to Augie. We had no bass player and Augie invited him to play. That was fun and very different. When I was starting to get into some traditional jazz stuff around '94/'95, after I got my first banjo uke, I always wanted to try playing with him again, but never screwed up the courage to do it. I’m sure I would have been welcome, and shepherded along. I was still pretty shaky on my jazz keys – Bb, Eb, F, etc. – and I was timid.
After my daughter Luciana was born in '99 (two years after I quit the street) I brought her down to listen to Tuba and the other bands on a regular basis. I would sit and listen and smile; she would dance and I would give her a dollar to throw in the case. While playing, Tuba would extend a hand to her; hers looked like a tiny china doll’s hand compared to his. One of the last times I saw him we were on the bus together down Esplanade. He had just picked up some sausages from the Italian deli across the street from the old Whole Foods.
Tuba died early in 2004. His second line funeral was epic. I have no idea how long it stretched, but I believe I counted eight brass bands. They had a Big Red Tuba on top of his coffin. I was proud, and sad, to march in that parade. That may have been the only Jazz Funeral I ever turned out for, because he was a New Orleans jazz legend, and I felt honored to know the man.
Tuba Fat’s obituary by Keith Spera in the Times-Picayune.
me, Scott Kirby (piano), Kenny Holladay (guitar), Bobby Lewis (harmonica), Norman Lee Shepperd (washboard), 1993 (photo: Margaret Steinman?)
Kenny Holladay (Scott Kirby in background) on Jackson Square, by Margaret Steinman, circa 1993.
The Girl on the Bike
I used to wait on Jackson Square at night in the summer. We would play. She would sometimes bike down after work. I pretended I was just there to play, but I was really waiting to see her. When she didn’t come I would worry. I didn’t know why. She could take care of herself. What I didn’t realize is that I was worrying for myself. I was afraid she wouldn’t come to see me anymore, and she would go with someone else, if she got a better offer. I may have been right; I was, after all, a poor street musician.
When the streets got dark and the night settled in, the shadows of wrought iron fences on darkened balconies would linger on the mist. Waves of alternating warm and cold air would come up off the river, carpets of fog swooping towards you like low-flying clouds. The streets would turn dark and shiny with condensation- there was more than air in the air. In the day it made the colors brighter, if it was cloudy and gray it made you think you were in a dream, at night it did the same, like black and white movies - light on film, smoke in the spotlight. Shadows in the fog.
Bunny in a Box
One night in early 93 – probably late winter or early spring, after I had been in the band for at least a couple of months -- Johnny and I were hanging at Checkpoints. Drinking, burgers, and so on. We were standing outside on the sidewalk with our beers, chatting with Valery and a couple of her friends. I was still living with my girlfriend, but she stayed in that night, as she often did. She never seemed to want to hang around with the band; instinctively she could see that I was drifting away from her.
Johnny and I were feeling quite jolly. The girls helped. And Johnny knew how I felt about Valery. He was putting on a bit of a show.
Somehow in conversation a comparison of stature was raised – he at around 6'1” and me grasping for 5 foot and a half. I countered that my small size could come in handy.
“I may not be big and strong, buddy, but I can hide easily. For instance if someone were after me right now I could run in the back and hide in a clothes dryer.”
“Come on. You cannot,” challenged Johnny. So, we went into the laundromat in the back of the bar and I actually climbed inside.
“Don’t turn it on,” I cautioned, before he closed the door, grinning malevolently, cigarette between his teeth.
Next we were back outside. There was a small group of kids – gutter punks maybe – sitting next to the entrance to the bar. A young woman had a cardboard shoebox with a rabbit inside. I didn’t know yet that Johnny had a soft spot for animals; he was incensed. Plastic beer cup in hand, he confronted the kids.
“What the hell are you doing with a rabbit in a shoebox?? Take the bunny out of the box. TAKE THE BUNNY OUT OF THE BOX.”
He went on like that for some time.
l-r: John Duff, Norman Lee Shepperd (rear), me, Corey Harris, Jackson Square, early 1993. Photographer unknown.
Greenhorn
December, 1992
I was watching the street band on Jackson Square, in New Orleans, Louisiana, yards from the Mississippi, at the Center of the World. Holding my guitar case. I had been introduced, but I was on the wrong side of the equation. I was a greenhorn. I was nobody.
I had once seen the Big Mess Blues Band (albeit an earlier incarnation) around New Years Day, 1989, on my first visit to New Orleans. This was the quintessential street band. They were “characters” -- as my mother would say -- and “characters” flocked to them. An entourage of hobos and homeless people seemed to follow them at all times, lingering at the edge of the action. Many of the members and hangers-on looked and acted like they had stumbled out of a casting call for the latest Charles Bukowski biopic: slovenly yet stylish, and shockingly profane.
The Big Mess worked on the street because they were pirates, interested in cash, not careers. They would not be told when and where to play by some middleman who’s just trying to sell booze. They played really good blues, out in the New Orleans heat all day long, or until they were satisfied. (Or discouraged, which was rare.)
Like the hoboes, some of the players had obviously lived full lives before ending up here, and to this then-22-year-old, some seemed so completely a part of the Quarter that it was hard to imagine them existing anywhere else, or the Vieux Carré existing without them. And like the French Quarter, this rag tag ensemble seemed to live on the very edge of the real world, a no man’s land between the past and the present. Yet to me their life seemed more real than anything else I had yet encountered; the vitality and immediacy of their music and lifestyle was undeniable.
Kenny Holladay (1957-2011)
This piece originally ran in OffBeat Magazine on Dec 1, 2011; it has been slightly modified for print here. (Despite the blog title, “Death of Street Singer,” this post will not be entirely characteristic of my blog; i.e.: I will not be writing exclusively about death and dead people. I share it first as it is possibly my only[?] published piece to date.)
I was sitting on one of the benches on Jackson Square, playing with Mickey “Slewfoot” when Kenny Holladay ambled up with his gig bag and said hi to Mickey, all the while eyeing my 1930s wooden-body National.
“How you doing? That’s a nice guitar.”
“You want to check it out?”
Kenny’s reputation as one of the hottest slide guitar players in town had proceeded him. I’d seen him fronting the Big Mess Band on the Square. I was in awe of his talent.
Kenny fished a little mandolin pick out of his pocket, sat down in the compact folding chair he carried, and started messing with my axe. Mickey strummed along. After a few bars a dollar fell into Mickey’s case. Then another and another. Kenny looked up.
“Well, uh, I guess maybe I should play my own guitar if we got people paying.” Kenny pulled a battered, silver Dobro out of a tattered leather case and started playing again.
“You know how to play a New Orleans mambo, man?”
“Uh, no.”
My first lesson had begun.
In the following months I pressed Kenny for valuable tidbits, emulating his style and on-stage brand of wit– even his mode of dress, to some extent, as I began collecting Hawaiian shirts. (I, however, eschewed the torn jeans, flip flops and leather jacket.) Later Kenny recommended me for important gigs that influenced my career, many times without my knowledge.
This was more than twenty years ago, when Tuba Fats was still playing the Square. Before retro swing bands were a dime a dozen. Before Bywater was gentrified. Before Frenchmen Street was a big deal. Kenny Holladay helped make that neighborhood a music destination, gigging at Check Point Charlie and the old Dragon’s Den. He played with a lot of bands: Coco Robicheaux, Butch Trivette, Invisible Cowboy, and Andre Williams… too many to list. He was a mentor to scores of young musicians. Generally content to play locally, Holladay only toured occasionally and with reluctance. He is shamefully under-recorded. But his music touched thousands, and not just in New Orleans.
Kenny grew up in California. He was given his first guitar by his grandfather. According to a cousin, dyslexia prevented a traditional music education, so he “invented music from scratch.” (Discussing music theory with Kenny was a mind-bending experience.) Kenny had a love for modifying and tinkering with his guitars. It was also a necessity, as his use of heavy-gauge strings and high-tension tunings led to the premature demise of many an instrument.
During most of the 80s he lived to Cambridge, Massachusetts, moving to New Orleans at the end of the decade. How and when Kenny developed his encyclopedic knowledge of obscure recordings, or his truly unique style (part piano, part pedal steel?) I do not know. Perhaps he started playing ridiculously fast slide guitar merely to keep up the circulation in his hands while playing in Harvard Square on cold winter nights. (As author/musician Elijah Wald put it, “a million notes a minute–but he always swore he knew what he was hitting and if you could tape it and slow it down it would all make sense.”)
Kenny was irreverent. Garish (but authentic!) Hawaiian shirts. Breaking into Black Sabbath’s “War Pigs” or Nancy Sinatra’s “Boots” in the middle of a blues song; literally crying, sobbing, moaning his way through an entire blues song till his audience (and band) would laugh so hard they themselves were in tears. But Kenny could play real slow, and he had soul. His versions of “Sleepwalk” and “Rainy Night in Georgia” were show stoppers; and check youtube for his duet with Andy J. Forest on “As the Years Go Passing By” from their Hogshead Cheese album. Songs like this give you an insight into the man who was more concerned with the welfare of his wife and daughter, and his friends, than his status and his career.
For the last few years of his life Kenny has kept a low profile, taking employment at a woodworking shop, playing mostly at the tiny Apple Barrel, both with his own outfit and as lead guitarist with the Louisiana Hellbenders. He continued gigging throughout his struggle with cancer, which finally cut him down on the afternoon of Monday, October 31, 2011.
One day, long before I met Kenny, a commercial fisherman and musical hobbyist named Robbie Phillips discovered the diminutive guitarist playing outside the old Coop in Harvard Square; Phillips promptly quit his job and moved to town to play washtub bass with Kenny. In early September, 2005, my head reeling, just a few days after evacuating my home in New Orleans, I was answering the phone in my parents’ house in Boston. The voice on the other end was deep, nicotine-inflected, with an alien, Southern Massachusetts accent. “My name is Robbie Phillips. They call me ‘Washtub.’ My friend Kenny Holladay told me to look you up.”
Still looking out for me. Bless you brother. Go in peace.