Keeping Burberry in check
 Between 1997 and 2003, the iconic Burberry check underwent a radical branding shift. The change was not to replace any of Burberryâs long-held brand icons, of the check or the trench, but rather, to re-orient the brand identity behind the iconography, and re-center it back on its original identity. Over the past few decades, the brand had been damaged by significant dilution, from the licensing of the check to miscellaneous check-branded novelty goods, to the proliferation of counterfeit items mimicking the iconic trench coat and handbags. CEO Rose Marie Bravoâs approach to re-positioning the brand was to âprune and growâ in two broad stages:Â
First, pruning unwanted diluters and focusing the brand through:
Establishing clear boundaries: Burberry was defined as functional and aspirational; Bravo described this specific position in relation to other competitors (âbetween Polo Ralph Lauren and Giorgio Armani for apparel; between Coach and Gucci for accessoriesâ) to clarify the boundaries of the brand and to set guardrails for the brand turnaround
Culling brand diluters: Bravo simplified the product line from 100,000 to 24,000 SKUs, removing many of the miscellaneous novelty items, such as chocolates, which threatened the main product line. Similarly, by curbing licensing agreements, and taking back control over design and distribution, Burberry re-assumed tighter control over a consistent core business
Increasing the price: Burberryâs prices were increased to be in line with its new brand positioning
Hiding the check: While highly recognizable, items which loudly displayed Burberryâs iconic check pattern were quickly becoming associated with cheap counterfeit products. Instead, by moving to âhideâ the check under collars or in the lining of items, Burberry sought to maintain the power of the check while dissociating from the mass-produced imitations.
Then, extending the brand in the new, desired direction through:Â
Introducing a higher-end: Prorsum, as the high-profile, high-end line, helped to cement Burberry with its luxury competitors as a true player in modern fashion
Developing personas: Through advertisements featuring Stella Tenant and Kate Moss, Burberryâs brand and target customer were personified by not one, but two iconic personas. However, while the personas were positioned as being different (âgood girl, bad girlâ), both personas communicated style, luxury, and âBritish cool girlâ mythology which further reinforced the new brand direction
The control exhibited by this strategy highlights that brand strategy is not always about gaining mass appeal and diffusion. For Burberry, mass diffusion had led to brand dilution, so efforts to 'fixâ the brand actually meant alienating customers who were not Burberryâs target market. Once they did this, they could then focus on re-energizing the core customer base. However, once that customer base was activated, so too would have been the demand for counterfeit goods. This describes an inevitable cycle that many similarly recognizable luxury brands face. As long as a brand is iconic, desirable, but out of reach, there will be a market for counterfeits, and it will be hard to stamp these out without compromising the core brand itself.Â










