Senior Numismatic Analyst

I’m a numismatist and data science expert passionate about uncovering the stories and value behind historical coins through advanced analytics. With a Bachelor’s degree in Archaeology and a Master’s in Data Science from Harvard University, I combine a deep understanding of cultural heritage with modern computational methods. https://coin-identifier.com/

[laurabennett]

Your Coin is Garbage. How to Identify Aluminum, Tin, and Lead "Coins."

Found a coin that feels too light, looks too crude, or has a strange, grainy texture? Congratulations—you might not have a coin at all. You might have garbage.

Well, historical garbage. Let's talk about tokens, store cards, and private issue pieces—the "coins" that aren't official government issue but circulated anyway.

Why Garbage? Before the U.S. Mint fully satisfied the need for small change, especially in the 19th century, private businesses, towns, and even individuals filled the gap by striking their own money. They used whatever cheap metal was handy.

Are They Valuable?Absolutely—sometimes! While not "U.S. Mint" coins, many private tokens are highly collectible. A rare Civil War store card or an 18th-century hop token (used to pay farm laborers) can be worth serious money to the right collector . Their value lies in their historical context and rarity, not their metal content.Your Move:Don't toss that weird, ugly "coin"! It might be a piece of forgotten Americana. Use the coin value checker to identify it first. Our database includes thousands of tokens and private issues. That "garbage" could be a treasure in disguise.

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Why Is There a B on This Nickel? The Mystery of the 'Westward Journey' Series

Flip through some early 2000s nickels and you might do a double-take. What's with the giant "B" on the back of some? And why does one have a canoe?

You've stumbled upon the Westward Journey Nickel Series (2004-2005)—a brief, fascinating detour in Jefferson Nickel history commemorating the Lewis & Clark expedition's bicentennial .

The Four Designs:

Why It Matters:These are circulating commemoratives—special designs released into your pocket change. While common (hundreds of millions minted), they're a fun, affordable way to collect American history . The 2005 Bison nickel with the "B" is a favorite among collectors for its striking, modern design.The Takeaway:That "B" isn't an error or a mystery mark—it's the artist's signature. But the real magic is in the stories these coins tell. Want to track which ones you've found? Use the coin appraisal to catalog your Westward Journey collection and explore each design's full history.

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The 1972 "No S" Proof Roosevelt Dime: The Mint Mark That Vanished

We've talked about the legendary 1975 "No S" Roosevelt Dime. But collectors know there's another ghost in the proof set closet: the 1972 "No S" Proof Roosevelt Dime.The Backstory:From 1968 onward, the San Francisco Mint ("S" mint mark) has been the exclusive producer of U.S. proof coins for collectors. So every proof Roosevelt Dime from 1968 to today should have a tiny "S" below Roosevelt's neck on the obverse

But in 1972, a handful of proof dimes slipped through without it. The mint mark was simply... missing. These "No S" proofs are exceedingly rare—far rarer than their 1975 counterparts—and highly sought after by modern error collectors.

How to Know If You Have One:

It Must Be a Proof: Look for that mirror-like field and frosted, sharp design. This error only exists in official government-issued proof sets, not circulation strikes .

Check the Date: It must be 1972.

Look Below Roosevelt's Neck: Is there an "S"? If not—and the coin is clearly a proof—you may have a major rarity.

Why It Happened: Proof dies are prepared with extreme care, but human error occurs. A die without the mint mark punch was likely installed by mistake during a production run . The mint caught it quickly, but a few sets escaped.

The Value: While the 1975 "No S" dime is the undisputed king, a 1972 "No S" proof dime in top condition (PR65 or higher) is still a five-figure coin—easily worth $10,000-$20,000+.

Think you've spotted one? Don't rely on memory. Use the coin identifier app to confirm you're looking at a genuine proof, then zoom in on that mint mark area. You might be holding a modern mint ghost.

[laurabennett]

🔍 Is This a DDO? How to Spot a Doubled Die Coin Without a Loupe

You've heard the term. You know they can be valuable. But how do you actually spot a Doubled Die Obverse (DDO) without fancy equipment? The secret is knowing where to look and what "real" doubling looks like.

First: What DDO Is (And Isn't)A true doubled die happens during die creation—not striking. The hub imprints the design twice, slightly misaligned, creating a permanent "doubled" image on every coin from that die . The key? Both images are the same height and sharply defined .Your No-Loupe Spotting Guide:Use the Tilt Test: Hold the coin under a bright desk lamp. Tilt it slowly. True doubling will catch light on both the primary design AND the secondary "ghost" image. It won't disappear as you tilt .Check the Date & LIBERTY First: On Lincoln cents, these are prime real estate. Look for notches—little extra curves where letters should meet. For example, a notch at the lower left of the "L" in LIBERTY is a classic diagnostic .Look for "Split Serifs": Those little feet on letters like "R" and "E"? If they look split or have extra thickness, you're onto something.Beware the Imposters: Machine doubling (or "ejection doubling") looks flat and shelf-like. If the "doubling" looks smeared and is lower than the main design, it's not DDO .Pro Tip: The 1955 DDO cent is the king—so valuable that fakes abound. One telltale fake diagnostic? A depression at the tip of the right wheat stalk on the reverse. Genuine coins don't have this .The best part? You don't need to memorize every diagnostic. Just scan a clear photo with our coin value checker . It compares your coin against known varieties, including major DDOs, and helps you separate a $5 curiosity from a $40,000 treasure .

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Why You Should NEVER "Dip" Your Silver Coins

You found an old silver coin. It's dark, a little dull, maybe with some colorful blotches. The temptation is real: let's just give it a quick "dip" in a chemical cleaning solution to make it bright and shiny again.STOP. Put down the solution. Back away slowly.What you're about to destroy is not dirt—it's history. And once it's gone, it's gone forever.

What Is "Dipping"? "Dipping" refers to using a mild acid solution (like commercial coin cleaner) to remove tarnish and oxidation from a silver coin's surface. It's a chemical peel for your coin.

The Permanent Damage: Here's what dipping actually does to a coin's value:

Destroys Natural Toning: That "dark blotchiness" you see is often natural toning—a thin, stable layer of sulfur compounds that builds up over decades. On many coins, this toning develops into stunning, iridescent rainbow colors that collectors prize. Dipping strips all of that away, leaving a coin that looks unnaturally bright and "flat."

Creates an Unnatural "Matte" Finish: Dipped silver coins often have a washed-out, lifeless appearance. They lack the original mint luster that makes a coin sparkle under light.

Alters Surface Forever: The acid slightly etches the metal's surface. A dipped coin will retone quickly and ugly, often in uneven, splotchy yellows and browns.

Destroys Value: To a collector, a dipped coin is a damaged coin. It can reduce a coin's value by 50% or more, regardless of its original rarity. A $1,000 coin can become a $400 coin in seconds.

What You Should Do Instead: If you must remove surface debris (not tarnish!), a gentle soak in pure acetone (not nail polish remover) can dissolve organic gunk without attacking the metal. But for 99% of coins, the best preservation is simply to leave them alone.

The Golden Rule: Never clean a coin you suspect might have collectible value.

Before you even think about dipping, do your research. Get a proper coin appraisal first with the app. Understand what you actually have. That "ugly" old silver dollar might be a rare, toned beauty that's worth far more because of its color, not in spite of it. Preserve the history.

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The "Spitting Horse" Delaware Quarter: A State Quarter Myth or Fact?

In 1999, Delaware became the first state in the series, featuring Caesar Rodney on his famous midnight ride to Philadelphia. On the reverse, Rodney is depicted on horseback. Shortly after release, collectors noticed something odd: on some quarters, a small, raised line appeared to extend from the horse's mouth, as if it were... spitting.The Reality: A "Die Break" ErrorThis isn't damage or wear. It's a genuine, though minor, mint error called a "die break." Here's how it happens:Over time, the intense pressure of striking thousands of coins causes a tiny crack to form in the coin die.That crack fills with metal during the striking process.The result? A thin, raised line of metal on every subsequent coin struck by that cracked die.In this case, the crack ran from the horse's mouth area, creating the "spitting" illusion. It's a small, quirky error that captured collectors' imaginations.Is Yours a Spitter?The line is subtle and requires a close look. It's not a rare, high-value error (circulated examples are common and worth little premium), but it's a fun piece of numismatic folklore and a great introduction to the world of die varieties.Fact or Fiction?It's fact—a real, documented die break. But its value is more about coolness than cash. The real thrill is in the discovery.Think you've found a spitter? Don't rely on memory. Use the coin identifier app to get a definitive ID on your quarter. Then, use the zoom feature to examine that horse's mouth. Happy hunting!

[laurabennett]

What's With the Roman Numerals on This Half Dollar?

Spot a half dollar with the date written in Roman numerals on the back? You're not looking at an ancient artifact—you're looking at a Walking Liberty Half Dollar, one of the most beautiful coins the U.S. has ever minted.From 1916 to 1947, this iconic design by Adolph A. Weinman graced our half dollars. While the front (obverse) shows a stunning, full-figure Lady Liberty striding toward the dawn, the back (reverse) features a majestic eagle perched on a mountain crag.

And underneath that eagle? The date, written in elegant Roman numerals.Why Roman Numerals?It was an artistic choice, pure and simple. The early 20th century was a golden age of American coin design (the "Renaissance of American Coinage"), and artists like Weinman often used classical elements to enhance the beauty and timelessness of their work. The Roman numerals fit the coin's classical, artistic theme perfectly.How to Read Them:They follow standard Roman numeral rules:M = 1000CM = 900X = 10L = 50V = 5I = 1So, "MCMXLVII" = 1000 + (1000-100) + (50-10) + 5 + 1 + 1 = 1947.Why It Matters Today:These half dollars are 90% silver, making them valuable for their melt value alone. But their artistic merit and historical significance add a substantial premium for collectors, especially in higher grades.Found one in an old collection or coin jar? Don't just admire it—scan it. Use our coin value checker to see its current silver melt value and get a sense of its collectible worth based on its condition. That Roman numeral date isn't just classy—it's a gateway to understanding a true American masterpiece.

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The Morgan Dollar's Secret: What the "CC" Mint Mark Really Means.

A "CC" mint mark on a Morgan Silver Dollar is more than just a letter—it’s a stamp of the Wild West. It stands for the Carson City Mint in Nevada.

Born from a Silver Boom: The Carson City Mint was built in 1870 specifically to coin the massive amounts of silver coming from the nearby Comstock Lode, one of the richest silver strikes in history. For 23 years, it turned raw Nevada silver into iconic American coins.

Why "CC" Morgans Are Special:

Frontier Authenticity: They were literally made at the source of the silver rush.

Shorter Production: The mint only operated from 1870-1893, and its Morgan dollar production was sporadic. Some years, like 1885-CC, had mintages under 300,000, making them key dates.

The GSA Hoard: In the 1970s, the U.S. government sold millions of last-surviving Carson City dollars from Treasury vaults in special holders. This famous sale introduced a generation of collectors to these coins.

While not every CC Morgan is rare, each one carries the rugged story of America’s expansion. They are tangible pieces of the mining frontier. If you’re lucky enough to have one, scan it with coin value checker to pinpoint its specific year and understand its place in this legendary series.

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The 2004-D Wisconsin Quarter Extra Leaf: A State Quarter Superstar.

The Wisconsin state quarter is wholesome—a cow, cheese, corn. But some have a secret: an extra leaf on the corn stalk. This wasn't in the design! It's one of the most famous and collectible errors in the entire State Quarter series.

There are two distinct varieties:

Extra Leaf Low: The extra leaf points downward, curving under the main husk. It's more subtle.

Extra Leaf High: The extra leaf points upward, thicker and more prominent. This variety is generally rarer and commands a higher price.

Is Yours the One? Here's How to Know:

Check the Mint Mark: It must be a 2004-D (Denver). Philadelphia ("P") or San Francisco ("S") proofs don't have this error.

Get a Closer Look: Use a magnifying glass or your phone's camera zoom. Look to the left of the ear of corn, near the base of the stalk.

Verify the Value: An authentic Extra Leaf quarter is worth a serious premium over 25 cents. In circulated condition, they can range from $50 to $200 or more, with certified, mint-state examples reaching into the $400-$1,000+ range.

Don't just spend that Wisconsin quarter! Give it a second glance. And when you're checking your change, scan it with coin value checker. Our database includes major errors like this, so you'll never accidentally spend a small fortune on a gallon of milk.

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Why Does This Nickel Have a Big Mint Mark on the Back?

Spot a nickel from 1942-1945 with a huge mint mark (P, D, or S) on the reverse, above Monticello? You’ve not just found any nickel—you’ve found a "War Nickel" made with silver!

During World War II, nickel was a critical metal for armor and artillery. The U.S. Mint removed it from the five-cent coin to conserve it for the war effort. From mid-1942 through 1945, the composition changed to: 56% copper, 35% silver, and 9% manganese.

How to Identify One:

Check the Date: 1942 (part-year), 1943, 1944, or 1945.

Find the Giant Mint Mark: Look on the reverse (back) of the coin, high above the dome of Monticello. This large, prominent mint mark is the dead giveaway. (Some 1942 nickels were made in the early, pre-war composition and have the small mint mark on the front).

Why It Matters: Each of these nickels contains roughly 0.056 troy ounces of silver. While that’s a small amount, it’s a fascinating piece of home-front history. They’re a direct, touchable link to the national effort of WWII.

Check your jar of old nickels! That weird one with the big letter on the back is a silver treasure. Scan it with Coin ID Scanner to confirm its composition and see its current melt value.

[laurabennett]

What's a "Mule" Coin? (And No, It's Not From the Animal)

Forget hybrids in nature—the most exciting hybrids are in your pocket. A "mule" coin is a numismatic oddity where the front (obverse) of one coin is accidentally married to the back (reverse) of another. Think of it as a minting factory's weirdest blind date.

The name comes from the mule, the hybrid offspring of a horse and a donkey, because the coin has "parents" of two different designs. These happen when mismatched dies—the metal stamps that imprint a coin's design—are paired together by mistake at the mint.

The Ultimate Mule Story: The $155,250 Quarter-Dollar The king of all modern U.S. mules is the legendary 2000 Sacagawea Dollar-Washington Quarter mule. In a crazy mix-up, a cracked Sacagawea dollar die was replaced with a Washington state quarter die, creating a coin with a quarter's front and a dollar's back on a golden dollar planchet. The mint caught it fast, destroyed most, but a few escaped. Only about 19 are known to exist. One sold in 2012 for $155,250. Talk about a happy accident!

Mules are the unicorns of coin collecting—incredibly rare and highly prized. Finding one in circulation is the ultimate dream. While you're hunting, scan everything with Coin ID Scanner. You never know when two wrong dies might make a right... and incredibly valuable... coin.

[laurabennett]

What's a "Proof" Coin, and Why Do They Look So Different?

Proof coins aren't currency; they're numismatic art. They are struck for collectors using a specialized, slow process that results in their iconic, jaw-dropping appearance.

The Proof Process (Why They Shine):

Special Materials: Specially prepared blank planchets and highly polished dies are used.

Multiple Strikes: The coin is struck at least twice with immense pressure, forcing the metal into every detail of the die.

The "Cameo" Effect: This creates the signature look: deeply mirrored fields (backgrounds) and frosted, textured devices (the raised design elements like a portrait or lettering).

How to Spot a Proof:

Mirror Finish: The flat surfaces look like black glass.

Frosted Details: The raised parts have a distinct, grainy matte finish.

Razor-Sharp Detail: Every line is crisp and defined.

Modern "S" Mint Mark: Since 1968, U.S. proofs are struck at San Francisco and bear an "S."

Proofs are sold in sets by the U.S. Mint. Finding one in change is a special event—someone spent a collectible! If you find a coin with a mirror finish, scan it with Coin ID Scanner. It will confirm its proof status and help identify rare proof-specific errors, like the famed "No S" proof dimes.

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Beyond "Good" and "Fine": What "AU" and "BU" Really Mean for Your Coins

You know "Good" means worn and "Fine" means decent detail. But when you step into "AU" and "BU" territory, you're talking about coins that never really circulated.AU (About Uncirculated): This coin has minimal wear on only the highest points from brief handling or contact with other coins. It may have lost some of its original mint luster in spots, but most of it remains. You might see slight rubbing on Lincoln's cheek on a cent, or on the wheat heads.BU (Brilliant Uncirculated) / MS (Mint State): This coin has zero wear from circulation. It left the mint and went straight into a collection. The key feature is its full, original mint luster—that cartwheel sheen that rolls across the surface when you tilt it under a light. "Brilliant" refers to the white, frosty luster on a coin with no toning.Why the Distinction is a Big Deal: The jump in value from an AU coin to a true BU/MS coin can be exponential, especially for key dates. An AU 1909-S VDB cent is valuable; a BU example is a five-figure treasure.Grading the subtle differences between AU and BU takes practice. For a consistent, AI-powered second opinion on a coin's condition, a good coin value checker can be an invaluable tool in your collecting kit.

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Buffalo Nickel Blues: How to Find a Date on a Worn-Out Coin

The Buffalo Nickel (1913-1938) has one of the most iconic designs in U.S. history. It also has the most frustrating flaw: the date is on the highest point of the design, so it wears away almost completely with circulation. Millions of beautiful "dateless" Buffalos sit in jars, their history seemingly lost.

But don't give up! Before you relegate it to the "mystery coin" pile, try these pro tricks to resurrect the date:

The "Pencil Trick": Place the nickel flat on a table. Gently rub the side of a soft graphite pencil lead over the date area. The graphite can settle into the microscopic remnants of the numbers, making them visible.

Angled, "Raking" Light: Shine a bright flashlight or LED at a very low angle across the date area. Shadows in the tiny pits of the numbers might reveal them.

Nickel-Ol Solution: Products like "Nic-A-Date" use a mild acid to etch the worn area. WARNING: This is chemical alteration and will permanently damage the coin's surface, destroying any collector value. Only use this if you value knowing the date more than the coin's numismatic worth.

Remember, a dateless Buffalo Nickel still has value as a type coin or for its silver content (for pre-1938 nickels). If you manage to reveal a key date like a 1913-S Type 2 or a 1926-S, you've hit the jackpot! To check the potential value of a dated or dateless Buffalo, a reliable coin appraisal tool can provide a great reference.

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The 1995-W Proof Silver Eagle: A Modern Classic You Probably Don't Have

The American Silver Eagle is the official silver bullion coin of the United States. But in 1995, the Mint did something extraordinary: it struck proof-quality Silver Eagles at the West Point Mint (the "W" mint mark) and sold them exclusively in a special 10th-anniversary set.This made the 1995-W Proof Eagle an instant classic. Unlike the regular bullion coins struck in Philadelphia, these were the first (and for a long time, only) Silver Eagles to bear the prestigious "W" mint mark. Their mintage was limited to just 30,125 sets, a tiny fraction of the millions of regular Eagles made that year.Today, it's one of the key dates in the entire Silver Eagle series. A perfect, graded example can be worth over $5,000. It's the ultimate modern "sleeper" rarity—a coin that looked like just another beautiful proof at the time but became a legend.If you're sorting through inherited proof sets, keep an eye out for that "W"! To accurately identify mint marks and understand the premium for rare issues like this, using a dedicated coin identifier app is a smart move.

[laurabennett]

Is That a Clipped Planchet or Just a Damaged Coin?

Seeing a chunk missing from a coin’s edge? Don't assume it's just damage! You might have a cool mint error called a clipped planchet.The Clipped Planchet Error: This happens at the mint before the coin is struck. As the long metal sheet (called a "strip") is punched into blank coins (planchets), the strip can advance incorrectly. If the punch overlaps a previously punched hole, it creates a blank that is already incomplete. When this blank is struck, it becomes a coin with a smooth, curved "clip." The metal flow from the strike creates a "bow-tie" effect on the coin's field.Post-Mint Damage: In contrast, damage that happens after the coin leaves the mint (like a bite from machinery or deliberate cutting) will have jagged, rough edges and no evidence of the metal flow from the strike.Why It Matters: A legitimate clipped planchet error has collectible value, especially if the clip is large or on an older coin. Post-mint damage typically has none. When you're trying to tell the difference, a good coin value checker can help you understand the market for genuine errors versus damaged coins.

[laurabennett]

What Makes a "Walking Liberty" Half Dollar So Special?

Ask any classic coin collector to name the most beautiful U.S. coin ever designed, and the Walking Liberty half dollar (1916-1947) will be at the top of the list. Designed by Adolph A. Weinman, it’s more than silver—it's wearable art.Its magic is in the sculptural beauty and symbolism. Lady Liberty strides confidently toward the dawn, draped in the American flag, her arm outstretched with branches of laurel and oak (symbolizing civil and military glory). The sun rises behind her, representing a new era. The reverse features a majestic eagle rising from a mountain crag. The level of detail is breathtaking.It was notoriously difficult to strike perfectly, which is why fully struck details on the skirt lines, head, and hand are so prized. Its legacy lives on: the design was so beloved it was resurrected for the American Silver Eagle bullion coin in 1986.Holding one is holding a masterpiece of American numismatics. To appreciate all the nuances of its design and condition, a detailed coin appraisal is key. You can start that journey with a tool like the Coin ID Scanner.