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LED lighting future trends

The luminous efficiency is improved steadily by an average of 15% is expected to reach more than 200lm / W, is estimated to reach from 200lm to / W white led light will be the past two or three years available. View, although the 2011 penetration rate of only 6.6% of the overall LED lighting market, but the future growth potential. Countries in the development of LED lighting have introduced policies and preferential measures, of which 2015, Japan plans to LED accounted for the general lighting market will reach 50% and 30% in South Korea, mainland China for 20 percent, up above the 2015 target, this few years will be up to the first phase of work; In addition, LED technology continues to progress, the U.S. DOE set a target point of view, the 2014 white LED components luminous efficiency will reach 200 lm / W, and the price will drop to about $ 2 / klm manufacturers process will exceed the above values. Second, lower manufacturing costs and sales prices down The price of the LED will be an average annual rate of 30% or higher rate of decline. By then, the led spotlight into millions of households will fall into place. With the enhancement of the LED chip, LED luminous efficiency is increased, the single LED chip, the cost continues to drop. Upstream investment-driven large-scale production can release lead to strong market competition will drive chip prices fell, which effectively promote the decline in the cost of LED lighting products. Mainstream led light products, cost structure in light beads cost accounting for about 40%, the drive power of 30%, 20% mechanical / thermal material, and the remaining costs about 10%. Seen the cost of lamp beads, the drive power, and mechanical / thermal material costs basically about 90% of the total cost is the main factor affecting the cost of LED lighting products. Further under the price of upstream raw material prices in the future, LED lighting products is expected to accelerate an alternative to the traditional incandescent lamp, energy saving lighting products. , High voltage LED will become the future is an important direction High-voltage LEDs (HV LEDs) has two advantages, one effectively reduces the cost and weight of the electronic ballast to significantly reduce the cooling system design requirements, which will solve the lighting market, the biggest technical obstacle. VF voltage, current conditions in the IF completely subvert the traditional low-voltage (LV LED) LED VF low voltage, the IF current requirements. LED lighting due to the HV LEDs SOP may reduce the shape of the heating, lighting structure may tend to be more to save cooling materials, greater than 270 degrees light-emitting, low-cost, light weight. And the high-voltage LED chip group of high-voltage, low current, compared with the general low voltage induction lamp, high current working environment, HVLEDs work fever was significantly reduced; HVLEDs only need high-voltage constant-current source can be a good , the high-voltage constant-current power transformer, electrolytic capacitor to solve the problem of low-voltage LED driver power supply and electrolytic capacitor life.

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How to Install a Corner Shower on Top of a Tile Floor？

You can have a tray design with a fully enclosed shower cubicle or a corner bath with side panels and a shower screen. You can install both on top of a tiled floor. It is best to choose a shower with adjustable legs so it simply sits on top of the tiles. It is up to you whether or not to keep the pipework running to the shower head showing above the tiles, or have it installed inside the wall, before the tiles are laid. If you have had fresh tiling and do not wish to take the tiles back off the wall, select attractive stainless steel pipes and make a feature out of them.

1.Ensure your floor is structurally sound and that the tiles have had enough time to "cure" (harden and fix) into place. A full day since grouting should be sufficient. Lay your shower tray into position. Mark your chosen location for the waste water pipe using a black marker pen.

2.Fit the shower tray on top of the tiles and flush to the wall. Press it gently at each corner, adjusting the legs as you go so it begins to balance. Measure the balance with a spirit level. Try to keep the tray as low to the floor as possible. Reach inside the cavity of the tray and screw the trap to the waste outlet. Support the center of the tray using pieces of ply board or cement board.

3.Apply sealant or tile adhesive to the base of a non-adjustable shower tray using a sealant gun or trowel, respectively. This is not an ideal solution, but is the only way to bed a non-adjustable shower onto completed tile work. Press the shower into place firmly and leave to set for a day or two.

4.Apply bathroom grade silicone sealant around the edges of the new shower using a sealant gun. Pay particular attention to where the tray meets the walls. Smooth lumps out with your thumb. Wash excess off with warm, soapy water and a sponge.

5.Fix the shower to the stud wall if you do not have a fully enclosed cubicle. Make a plan showing the position of the pipes running from the shower tap and shower head. Run pipework across the tiles but behind the shower side panels. Use 15 mm. diameter pipes. Turn off the water at the mains before plumbing the pipes in. Waterproof the piping using a waterproof coating such as chrome casings or waterproof plastic casings that fit around 15-mm pipes.

6.Fit isolating valves to the ends of the pipes to ensure the water does not escape. Apply PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) tape around new joints to create waterproof seals. Use a female screw thread adaptor to connect the pipes to the shower controls. Mount the controls beside the pipes on the wall. Silicone sealant seal the edges carefully before reconnecting the water supply.

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How to Remove a Corner Shower？

An unused corner shower can be taking up a great deal of space in a bathroom. Removing the shower can free additional space along two walls, making room for additional storage, or for installation of laundry appliances. Fortunately for homeowners, removing a corner shower enclosure is a simple job that requires just a little time and know-how to complete.

1.Shut off the water to the bathroom at the main water valve, located near the hot water heater. Then drain any remaining water in the pipes by turning on the shower and letting any water run out.

2.Unscrew the hardware in the shower. This will involve removing the shower valve face plate, the shower head, the shower drain and any brackets holding a shower door in place.

3.Remove the shower surround and floor. If the surround is made of tile, use a hammer and either a utility knife or a chisel held at a 45-degree angle to the tile and break away the tile from its backer. If the surround is made of acrylic or fiberglass, use a utility knife to loosen the adhesive behind around the edges and pull the surround free with a crow bar. If the adhesive is extremely strong, a heat gun or hair dryer can be used to soften and loosen it.

4.Remove the shower valve from the pipes and cap the pipes off. Any remaining pipes leading to the shower head, and from the shower drain should be capped or filled as well.

5.Remove any tile backerboard on the walls and replace it with sheet rock. Screw the sheet rock directly into the studs, being careful not to tighten the screws down too far, cracking the sheet rock.

6.Level off the floor where the shower pitched to the drain by creating a floor mortar bed. This will leave a clean, flat surface ready for tiling or finishing with another wooden flooring material. Create the mortar bed by mixing 1 part Portland cement, or common cement, to 5 parts damp sand. Slowly add a small amount of water to this mixture until the mortar clumps together when squeezed in the hand.

7.Trowel the floor mortar evenly across the area where the new tile will be laid. Check with a level to determine that the area is completely leveled off and is ready to accept new tile. The floor at this section will need to match evenly with the floor in the rest of the bathroom once the new tile or finished floor is installed. Take into account the thickness of the tile when laying the mortar bed.

8.Plaster the sheet rock on the walls and prepare the walls to receive paint, wallpaper or tile; whichever will match the rest of the bathroom. Keep in mind that the entire room may need to be repainted to ensure a perfect match in color from one section to the next.

9.Finish the floor by continuing the bathroom tile or flooring into the area that once held the shower. Be sure to match the tile and the grout color for a seamless job.

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How to Make a Ring From a Hex Nut？

Jewelry does not require expensive metals or gemstones to create an unusual, eye-catching accessory. You can find many inexpensive yet alluring materials to use as components in your jewelry-making at your local hardware store. It is easy to fashion a hex nut into a ring using only a file and sandpaper. Measure your finger or the finger of the person who will wear the hex nut ring. You can measure ring size using a standard finger gauge or you can take a ring that fits and slide it onto a ring mandrel to determine the ring size needed for your project. Select a hex bolt with a larger outer rim and a slightly smaller inner rim than the ring size you need. File away the threads on the inside of the hex nut using the file. Continue to file until the inside of the hex nut is smooth and the size needed for your ring. Check the hex nut as you work by sliding the heavy hex nut on a ring mandrel. Take care not to file too much or the ring will be too big. It is easy to enlarge a ring, but if you make the hex nut ring too large, you will need to start filing over again with a new hex nut. Use (220 grit) wet/dry sandpaper to sand the inside of the hex nut so that the inside of the ring is quite smooth. Switch to 400, 600 and 800 sandpaper as you work until you create a high polish. Test the hex nut ring for comfort. Slide the hex nut ring onto the finger of the person who will wear the ring. Make any needed adjustments.

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How to Make a Windmill From Glass Bottles？

To make a windmill from a glass bottle, cut off the bottom of a bottle, cut out holes in strategic places, and nail it to a stake to place in the ground. Create a homemade windmill with tips from an experienced craftsman in this free video on recycled craft projects.

We are now going to learn how to make a windmill out of a plastic whisky glass bottle. This requires a little bit of physics which is going to be fun. I’m just taking an old Talking Rain bottle. You can see by the bottom of it the, there, there’s these bumps here. We’re going to be, we’re going, we’re just going to take that bottom part off and we’ll make a windmill out of that. Here it goes; see I’m cutting with the serrated edge of the knife toward the table so that I don’t cut myself. Alright, now there’s one. Okay, so what I have created now is this windmill; this little windmill turbine. If you try to hammer this through, it will just crack the plastic. So we’re going to drill a hole out and then you, and then use the nail to go through. So we’ll be drilling right in the center, right here. The more on the center, the better. Now where to work; you want to round the hole out so that the nail doesn’t catch. Let’s try this nail in here. Oh that’s a nice spin, it’s going to spin very easily. Okay, let’s try this out. Now we’re going to take a stick, just like this so that we can pound it on the ground acting as the windmill tower. Now the next thing we need to do is go back into the recycle bin and pull out the stainless steel bottle that we just cut up and going to use the scissors just to cut this label off here and using the scissors, I’m going to create this clear of back weight for the windmill. You want to build a slide smoothly on our windmill tower. Here we go, just a little piece of plastic there. We got a windmill tower right here and we’re going to want to just; we want to secure this onto the windmill tower so that none of this little small little hang ups on the plastic will catch so that it’ll spin smoothly. So I’ll, I will use this tiny little tacks right here to secure this plastic shield and use a hammer. Make sure it’s very flat. Okay; maybe clean it up a little bit with the scissors and then we’re going to insert the windmill. Put it back, put it in the tack through this little hole here and we’ll just put it right in the center of the shield and tack it in.

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How to Make a Portable Outdoor Shower Room？

One of the main bugaboos of outdoor activities like camping, hiking and hunting is the inability to have a hot shower to soothe your muscles and get the dirt off. However, it is possible to build a portable shower that can provide a wonderful shower experience. Your portable shower aspirations are only limited by your capacity to carry. The easiest to carry would be a solar bag shower. A lightweight and collapsible enclosure will add some measure of privacy without sacrificing portability.

1.Fill the shower bag with water and place in a sunny area. This will ensure that your shower will be pleasantly warm.

2.Lay out four of the 4-foot lengths of PVC to form a square. Connect the sides of the square by inserting the ends of the lengths of PVC panel into the openings of four of the 3-way connectors. The PVC lengths should be inserted as far as they can go into the connectors to ensure stability without using adhesive. Once the square is completed, each 3-way connector should have one empty opening pointing upwards. Repeat with the remaining 4-foot lengths and connectors. You should have two equal squares at the end of this step.

3.Insert a 6-foot length of PVC into each of the remaining connector openings of one of the squares. Insert the opposite ends of the PVC lengths into the remaining connector openings of the second square. Ensure that the pipes are seated as far into the connectors as they can go. You now have a framework for your outdoor shower.

4.Attach the shower curtain to the PVC along the perimeter of the 4-foot square using the shower rings. Ensure that the rings are evenly distributed on all four sides for even coverage.

5.Place shower framework on a level surface. If necessary you can add stability by placing heavy pieces of driftwood or rock on the bottom of the shower enclosure.

6.Attach the filled shower bag to one of the sides of the top square. The attached shower head and hose can now be used to take a warm and private shower.

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How to Glue a Shower Cabin Glass Door to a Glass Tail？

Shower cabins are complete shower units that are sold ready to install. These units typically have walls with multiple shower heads and fittings, water jets, speakers, LED lights, a shower pan and a glass door surround. Everything has been done for you, except the installation. The cabins may arrive partially finished and only need minor assembly, while others may require additional work. Frequently, you will need to glue portions of the cabin, such as the glass wall and door pieces, together during assembly.

1.Open and assemble your shower cabin as recommended by the manufacturer. Push the cabin into the corner of the wall after connecting the plumbing and aligning the sewer drain correctly.

2.Attach the cabin to the wall studs exactly as recommended by the manufacturer. Most cabins have one or more fixed glass panels or tails that are attached to the cabin. Movable glass doors operate adjacent to the fixed panels.

3.Glue the glass guide rail using clear silicone adhesive and a close-cut tip. Place painter’s tape along either side of the rail before installation. This will control the silicone from smearing on the acrylic shower surfaces.

4.Apply a bead of silicone between your strips of painter’s tape and insert the rail into the silicone sealant. Some models will instruct you to secure the strips with screws. Typically, you will add silicone at the corners and near any fasteners to prevent leaks.

5.Cut plastic weatherstripping to fit the dimensions of your fixed glass panels. Slide the weatherstripping over the edges of the glass. Lubricate the plastic ridges on the weatherstripping with soap and slide the glass panel into the metal strip. Complete the installation of the top metal guide, based on the manufacturer’s recommendation. Often you will need to glue two glass tails, one for each side of the door. The actual door assembly must remain mobile to operate.

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How to Wean Your Baby off the Bottle？

When you decide to wean your baby from a stainless steel bottle to a cup, a variety of techniques can make the transition easier on you both. Offer your baby a cup instead of a bottle, and follow his cues. He may seem interested and may drink from it properly; if he has trouble or just refuses, try again in a few days. Make a family policy that your baby can’t walk around with his drink or play with his vacuum bottle. This will make it clear that he needs to eat at regular meal and snack times, rather than always holding on to the bottle. Follow similar rules yourself so you don’t send mixed messages. Substitute other things that will comfort your baby if he seems to be using his bottle as a pacifier. These should include extra attention and affection, as well as special games, toys and books. If your baby gets thirsty at night, keep a spillproof cup of water nearby and offer it to him in lieu of a bottle when he wakes. The nighttime brandy glass bottle is often the most difficult to lose, but doing so is important. Using formula, milk or juice at night harms your baby’s dental health, as the liquid will pool in the mouth, coat the teeth and lead to severe decay. Bottles also pose a choking hazard.

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How to Check for a Bad Load Cell?

Load cells are an important component of digital scale systems. These cells serve as force sensors, measuring the amount of force exerted on them via voltage signals produced from a regulated power source. These signals are converted by the digital indicator into numeric values that can be read with human eyes. A bad load cell that’s physically damaged or adversely affected by corrosion or an out-of-range voltage output will produce a highly inaccurate scale reading, necessitating the cell’s eventual repair or replacement.

Instructions

1.Visually inspect the load cells for any signs of deformation. If the cells are deformed, have them repaired or replaced by a trained service technician.

2.Connect the load cell to the digital indicator. Make sure the terminals are connected properly to the load cell wires. Remove any corrosion and/or moisture from the connectors before performing the checks.

3.Turn the indicator to the "On" position. Allow a few seconds for the readings to stabilize. After the readings have stabilized, press the "Zero" key to drop the reading to "0."

4.Set the multi-meter to the 20 or 30VDC range and read the voltages between the 4 load cell connections. Do not check the shield connection, as it is not connected to any part of the load cell circuit. The red/black electric cable should give a reading of 8.000VDC, while the red/green and red/white wires should give a reading of 4.000VDC. The green/white wires should read 0.000VDC.

5.Set the multi-meter to the "MV" range. Without a load, there should be a small signal between the green/white wires. At full capacity, the wires will give a reading of 24.00 mV. If any of the readings are outside of these tolerances, have the load cells repaired or replaced by a trained service technician.

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What is the vertical cone crusher development advantage?

The cone crusher broken equipment on the basis of absorbing domestic and foreign advanced optimization, design a screen, adjustable grinding equipment, can be widely used in cement raw materials, cement clinker grinding operation can also be used dolomite,fine manipulation in the hardness of flint, lead and zinc, serpentine, blast furnace slag, coal gangue, phosphate and other materials, especially for hard limestone, dolomite, granite, basalt and other artificial aggregate processing, broken or highwayroad. Materials by the machine upper part of the vertical fall into the high-speed rotation of the impeller in the high-speed centrifugal force, and another part of the Umbrella forms of diversion in the impeller vertical composite crusher Around the material to produce high-speed Impact Crusher with crushed material after the impact each other, will in between the impeller and the casing materials form a vortex hit each other many times, friction and grinding, straight from the lower part of the discharge, the formation of the closed-loop recycled many times, by screening device control to the granularity of the requirements of the finished product. Main purposes: Composite Crusher (Compound break) Series applies to building materials, mining, metallurgy, chemical industry, broken limestone, clinker, coal and other ores, the compressive strength of not more than 140 MPa, humidity less than 15% Equipment of the crusher broken than large, jaw crusher rate can reach the size of the flow can be adjusted without board hammer, liner wear; screen settings, broken high moisture content, clay volume, the material is not easy to plug; flexible adjustment of the body, enter the non-feed off automatically discharged without causing damage to the equipment; bearings level layout, long life, you can break the (high-temperature materials such as cement clinker); vertical crusher rotor structure is unique, broken rotor body is almost no wear; posterior body a helical rod or stone crusher opening device, not from the main device, you can easily replace wearing parts.