My favorite part about Tanzania was the beautiful smiles on all the children saying hello. They were not looking for anything, just a hello and wave back. 😍
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@limitlessroom
My favorite part about Tanzania was the beautiful smiles on all the children saying hello. They were not looking for anything, just a hello and wave back. 😍
Momella - Flamingo lake..
Mukuru (Ol Doinyo Landaree)
Epic view from the top of Mukuru (Ol Doinyo Landaree)
Remtula at the inflection point of Mukuru (Ol Doinyo Landaree) hike.
This is Africa
Momella nature walk, from Kilimanjaro to Mount Meru.
Quintessential Africa- Momella
Good morning Momella and Mount Meru
Late night arrival journey in Momella, Tanzania. Roads are defined differently by country ;-)
Kilimanjaro - Getting there and pretrip
Well if you can’t figure out how to get to JRO, this probably isn’t the trip for you. Despite an incredibly efficient route, I was still traveling for 20 hours and arrived in the evening, a bit scary in most countries. My friend had arrived earlier than me, and being a gentlemen came back from the lodging to greet me with my pick-up sign. I was introduced to our ambassador, Remtula, and we were off in our 4x4 (of which we needed every ounce) for an hour and half back massage. We arrived at the lovely Hilltop Retreat (Africa Amini Life) in Momella that lived up to its name.
(I figured you deserved the day time glory shot)
We wanted a few days to get rid of our jet lag and decided to make the most of it. A safari is one option, while others acclimate by staying in Arusha or Moshi, I don’t recommend either of those cities as they are not pretty and the safari is a bit sedentary yet exhausting before an 8 day hike.
Momella - Day 1 We awoke to a stunning view of Mount Meru, towering over us, and an African sunrise.
The gracious cook, Peace, prepared for us a hearty breakfast and Remtula whisked us away for our nature walk. We were treated to an up close and personal view of the local giraffes (I believe that they confused Brian with a missing brother.)
(Just hanging in front of Kilimanjaro with a few giraffes, no big deal.)
Remtula provided a brief overview of the many natural remedies around us: stomach ache cure, natural antiseptic, root toothbrush, etc.
We were then taken to see the hospital and school that was founded by Christina (the owner of Africa Amini Life), a German doctor that had a vision of how to help the local people on a trip over 10 years ago. What she has accomplished since then is inspiring.
(Locals that come from far and wide for treatment.)
She has not only brought Western medical and dental care to the area, but remained true to the culture and has a homeopathic clinic and pharmacy on location. While some of the formulas help aches and pains, others are intended to heal even the most un-expected of pains yet perhaps the most common… a broken heart or a cheating husband.
(Take a close look at the tape labels.)
After a quick BBQ lunch (for 3 a total of $12) it was time to secure a car watcher and head for our hike up Mukuru (Ol Doinyo Landaree.) I know who hikes before an 8 day hike? Apparently Brian ;-).
Brian and I looked prepared to climb Kilimanjaro, however Remtula was nonchalant with his Chuck Taylors, black button up shirt, khaki slacks, and organic walking stick.
(We started from the plains and this was the inflection point of the steep climb.)
(And now straight up.)
As we began to ascend this nipple of a mountain, I noticed some local goat herding children running up the mountain in almost nothing. I wanted so badly to run straight up like them, but sadly it would be polé polé (slowly.) Luckily we would catch other beautiful children at the bottom.
When we arrived to the top we were greeted by another local herdsman.
We snapped our photos and began the very steep descent. The panoramic views are amazing and extend all the way to Kenya. (See other photos.)
Remtula assured me that since I could conquer this hike, Kilimanjaro would be in the bag…. I wonder if that phrase was appropriately translated…maybe he meant I would be carried off the mountain in a bag…
Upon returning to the house, Peace had prepared another delicious meal and it was time for rest.
(Take me back to this moment, NOW!! That peak in the distance is what we climbed.)
Momella - Day 2 We said good bye to the Hilltop Retreat with its wonderful hospitality and embarked on a day of driving.
(Peace…. in more ways than one.)
Remtula took us first to Lake Momella to see the flamingos. I won’t downplay this experience, there was a strong odor of flamingo poop.
(Brian loves traveling with me, I mean who wouldn’t!)
We embarked on our long drive to Arusha via King'Ori - Leguruki Road.
We sadly didn’t have time to stop by the Masaii lodge and try our had at spear throwing, I guess that will have to be for another time. The drive took us through countless beautiful areas and just as impressive were the warm people flashing a wave and an open heart.
We also didn’t have time to hit a coffee plantation, so we had to settle for the factory, Kahawa Roastery. This was still a great quick stop to pick up some gifts.
It wasn’t hard to tell when we had entered Arusha, the charm of the countryside was gone and the city hit us like a brick, it is not particularly a pretty one. A quick loop around the Coca Cola clock tower that is marketed as the center of Africa and we headed to the Masaii Market where every vendor basically accosts you, and most sell the same items.
(Center of Africa… “Look kids Big Ben.”
We didn’t negotiate very hard and paid more than we “should have”, but a fair price is what should always be paid. I would also have my money go directly to these vendors than the tourist center which is overpriced and owned by foreigners.
(Proud new owner of Maasai figurines)
Remtula was excited for us to eat at the Ndutu Safari Lodge, where we spent more time getting to know about his 8 month old son, and his wife that stays in Arusha while he works in Momella. It was time to start the Kilimanjaro hike process and head to Moshi for our 5pm orientation at the Stella Maris Lodge. The lodge is basic at best, but again the people are lovely. With orientation out of the way, Brian and I headed for a massage. We forgot to request separate rooms (then again that might not have even been an option under the accommodation circumstances) and walked into a dark candlelit room with two massage tables and Celine Dion The Power of Love blaring. Then again you get real comfortable with someone after Kilimanjaro, no topic or circumstance off limits. After a good chuckle, we were glad to free the knots of Mount Mukuru and prepare (well kinda) for Kilimanjaro!
Kilimanjaro - Packing, training and company selection
I have once again left you all without a cure for insomnia, so it is time for a bit of a catch-up! I wanted to conquer Kilimanjaro during my first trip to Africa, but unfortunately the timing did not work out. So when a friend asked if I wanted to join the hike, I was 100% certain and completely unsure. I am officially at the highest weight of my life, although far from bad shape. However, I was assured by another friend, who had completed Kilimanjaro 10 years ago (big difference in 30 vs. 40,) that I could do it. My training consisted of approximately 7 - 5k walks on the sand, a few hot yoga sessions, one 5k+ hike in Mammoth and a few bottles of wine as I stressed over the packing list.
If you are in fairly decent shape, stubborn and take Diamox, you will find the gear to be the biggest hurdle of your climb. Ultimate Kilimanjaro our tour company (selected by my friend, so no real diligence on my part) provides an excellent packing list. I would not consider “optional” items optional, they are all mandatory, like the pee bottle for the tent, yep… etc. The list also tries to cut short the number of underwear and socks for the hike, don’t do this. These items don’t take up much weight and should be changed every day, obviously. I also packed a few (72) extra baby wipes, a comprehensive medicine kit, and rented my sleeping bag and poles on location. After some traumatic online orders, I ended up having to do a very expensive last minute trip to REI (please don’t give me the party line about being a co-op and receiving the immaterial dividend, it’s still ridiculous) and I was packed! This was just for the hike, the safari and rest of the trip was another ordeal. I won’t bore you with those details, just remember to check weight limitations as extra baggage gets very expensive. I did plan for the worst and made sure that I wore my boots on the plane and my gear bag was my carry on.
(Extra bars, candy and frisbee went to the guides and porters, which they greatly appreciate.)
A guest room for staging is crucial... I wish that my gear was not all new because I literally wanted to leave everything for the porters as a donation.
Cuba Wrap-up
As I noted in my overview, Cuba is a lovely place. However, if you are trying to get there before it “changes...” just stop. It is not like you are missing the evolution from loin clothes to computers. Tourism is there, but the updated infrastructure is not, so Cuba will only get better with time. I don’t believe the old cars or colonial architecture will go away, as those have become as much a part of the identity as the iconic Che photos, Hemingway spots, cigars and revolutionary history. When your identity brings in dollars, it usually only increases rather than disappears.
Cuba is a wonderful country with tremendous architecture, natural countryside beauty, clear waters, and most importantly a very interesting history. If you do go, take the time to learn the history from both sides of the story.
The emerging art scene is so important to the next generation and very impressive, so another item to be explored fully. Art is their speech, their freedom of expression, and their vision for the future.
Now is Cuba better than Corsica? Even ignoring the Trinidad cleanse, no. Corsica’s natural diversity and history still tops this one, and the good news is that you get to eat well on my island.
Trinidad, Cuba. Around town.
Because old vehicles never get old...
Cuba - The Mojito Review
It seems only appropriate that I detail the Mojitos of Cuba, after all the Mojito was invented there! Note this tasting was completed over a week, please do not attempt this in one evening. :-)
Hotel Saratoga - Havana -This may be an option for hotel guests only. While the mezzanine bar atmosphere leaves something to be desired, the Mojitos were acceptable. I appreciated the fact that sugar was barely noticeable, then again so was the alcohol. (8) Now the roof top scene of this hotel is completely different, while the ambiance is fantastic the Mojito is beyond disappointing. (4)
Hotel Nacional - Havana - We gave this hotel 2 chances. The first time, we were brought a sugary mess, even after requesting without sugar and with some kick :-). The second order was placed directly with the barman, and came more appropriately concocted. However, this was too much effort for a decent drink. While it is great to visit the Godfather hotel or sit and look at the view with the grand hotel in the background, there are better mojitos to be had. (6)
Hotel Ambos Mundos - The subtle breeze on the roof top with a view of the city is almost enough to drown out the chatter of tourists. I positioned myself over looking a factory with billowing smoke, but all other spots were very charming. The barman had the mojitos lined up for assembly line composition. Poor guy probably assumes hell is an endless Mojito factory. The taste was good, but there was definitely some thing a little bit unique in the flavor which I like, however again a tad bit over sweetened as it was the first time I forgot to request easy on the sugar. (8.5)
La Bodeguita Del Medio - Havana - Reportedly the birth place of the Mojito, and again where the bartender employes an assembly line production before the orders are even placed. While I love the atmosphere of this jovial and musical place, the Mojito was just a “meh.” So Meh, that I did not even bother with a second. (6)
Dona Eutimia - Havana - The owners may have cheated here by adding blending to the recipe, but this Mojito was perfection: amazing flavor, perfect sweetness and not overly strong or light. Since this is a blended Mojito, I don't feel that a 10 would be fair, so 9.9+ it is!
Restaurant Floridita - I could not bring myself to order a Mojito in the birthplace of the Daquiri!
El Cocodrilio - To be fair, this place is in the middle of nowhere on the way to Trinidad. Despite the hospitable staff, the Mojito was simply terrible and I believe made with limonade, blasphemy! (2)
Cohiba - Trinidad - The was a solid made to order Mojito, and while the flowery flavor from Ambos was not present, this was still a sold Mojito. (8)
Trinidad walking tour highlights.