Retiring in Treviso - tranquillity and Italian lifestyle just around the corner from Venice
Treviso is undoubtedly a hidden gem of the northeastern Italian region - Veneto. The city, also known as a little Venice due to its charming Buranelli Canals, stayed in the shadow of its world-famous neighbour for years. However, in the last 20 years, the capital of the Marca Trevigiana, as the locals often call the province, moved up from the 43rd to the 8th position on the list of the best Italian cities to live in by the national journal Il Sole 24ore. Meanwhile, Treviso has been discovered by tourists and expats looking for a spot where to enjoy a quiet glass of wine while gazing over one of the canals crossing through the historical centre. Therefore, when choosing the city as my new home, I was enchanted by its beauty but also attracted by its perfect location - it is positioned half an hour by train from Venice, in proximity to the breathtaking landscapes of the Italian Alps and a short car ride from one of the longest sandy coasts in North Italy.
Pros and Cons of living in Treviso.
Treviso has a lot of pros for someone looking for a place to enjoy a good life, cherish quality food and take advantage of good weather. Still, despite its charm, it can seem too small or provincial for someone looking to settle in a place with a cosmopolitan city vibe. The historical centre inside the city walls can be seen on foot in about a couple of hours. At the same time, its size can be considered an advantage. The city of around 85000 inhabitants has been regularly included in the top 10 on many lists of Italy’s safest places to live. The low level of crime makes it a perfect place for families and those looking to retire in a calm and peaceful environment.
Despite being small, Treviso is very well connected, with its own international airport and a large Venetian airport just half an hour away. Although Veneto is not the cheapest region of Italy, Treviso, being so close to Venice, makes it a bit more economical, free of tourist traps and overpriced coffee bars. Nowadays, when being environmentally conscious is a must, to its advantage, Treviso is known for its highly efficient waste management company - Contarina. It famously recycles twice the European average and produces five times less waste. Furthermore, northern Italy offers one of the best healthcare systems globally. The country also has the second-highest life expectancy at birth in Europe.
The best area in Treviso where to live.
For those with a substantial budget, the city’s historical centre makes a perfect location where to retire. The area near the Duomo, with classical architecture and lovely villas overlooking the canal surrounding the centre, small coffee shops and trendy bars, create a tranquil but never dull environment. However, if you are on a tighter budget, you should look for a place outside the city walls, which does not mean worse quality. The residential area of San Lazzaro, located just outside of the city centre, offers good services and an excellent selection of new constructions and buildings to be restored, which gives an opportunity to those who want to create their own space. San Zeno, Fiera or Sant’Antonino also offer attractive residential areas well connected to the city centre.
What is the culture like in Treviso?
Italians love to spend time sitting out, drinking coffee or sipping a glass of local, excellent wine, and the inhabitants of Treviso are by all means no different. You will see them spending an afternoon chatting or reading a daily newspaper while enjoying a glass of Prosecco, world-famous sparkling wine originally from Valdobbiadene, in the province of Treviso. You should, however, not confuse this ability to enjoy life’s pleasures with negligence. Treviso is also where many international businesses originated, such as Benetton, Sisley, Stefanel, Geox and De Longhi, to name just a few. In addition, small and medium company owners keep their businesses local, ensuring unemployment stays low,
and the economy is steadily growing.
What languages are spoken and can you get by with English only?
Although you would be surprised to hear an English-speaking person on the streets of Treviso just a few years ago, the number of tourists and expats has increased greatly since then. You will also be able to get about using English at local restaurants and shops. Still, Italians will always look at you with a favourable eye if you can say a few other words than just Spritz or Ciao.
What is the climate like?
The Italian climate is supposedly one of the most pleasant in the world. Indeed, in Treviso, you cannot complain about the weather too much. The summers are hot, but most inhabitants spend the blazing days in rented or owned apartments in Jesolo, relaxing by the pool. The nearby Alps and the Dolomites also offer a refreshing holiday destination. Spring and autumn offer many sunny days and perfect temperatures, with November being probably the only rainy month during the year. Winters are sunny and moderately cold,
giving an opportunity to take advantage of many ski resorts, such as the famous Cortina d’Ampezzo or Asiago.
How to get around the city? Do you need a car?
A big part of the city’s culture is cycling. Being relatively small, Treviso allows for the city’s centre to be easily visited on two wheels. Many nearby locations make a perfect cyclist destination, such as Restera, a pleasant path alongside the river Sile which takes you from the city’s centre to nearby Silea. If you are up for an extended cycle, Asolo, a charming mediaeval town popular amongst retired American expats, is an excellent destination for a day trip. Treviso is also home to Pinarello - a famous bicycle manufacturer whose bikes can be spotted used by winners of the Tour de France or Giro d’Italia.
Nonetheless, you may need a car if you want to go outside the city centre. Italians do not go anywhere without a car, and it is common for a family to have two or more vehicles. You can still manage just fine using public transport, but consider that the buses are not very frequent outside of popular routes. That said, Treviso is a great starting point if you want to travel more extensively around Italy - trains to all parts of the country depart daily from nearby Mestre.
Popular activities in Treviso.
Treviso is a historical city with narrow streets and ancient buildings, but there is much more to it than just captivating Italian architecture. There are some world-class museums for those who enjoy a bit of art. Well-curated Museo Civico di Santa Caterina, located beautifully in an old monastery, presents a rich collection of local art ranging from the Bronze Age to Rennesaince. Worth mentioning are also the newly renovated Museo Luigi Bailo, showing
the city’s artists of the XX century, and Gallerie delle Prigioni, founded by the Fundazione Benetton in a former prison opposite the cathedral. The rich cultural offer is enhanced by Centro Carlo Scarpa, which proposes a wide range of activities related to the creations of the acclaimed architect. Treviso is also home to several festivals taking place throughout the year. There is a well-known Treviso Comic Book Festival in September, the literature festival CartaCarbone. Festival Letterario, the film festival Sole Luna Sguari Doc, and the Treviso Photography Festival. Each summer, by the city walls, the music festival Suoni di Marca takes place, which features famous Italian musicians from the region but not only. Additionally, fans of the sport will not be disappointed - Treviso has strong basketball and rugby teams, both supported by the Benetton Group.
What are popular local food dishes?
You cannot talk about Italian culture without mentioning the food. Of course, northern Italian regions are famous for wine, but almost every city has its speciality. The province of Treviso is home to perhaps one of the most famous wines in the world - prosecco. This sparkling white wine is exquisitely produced in the hills between the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and the area of the nearby town of Asolo. Treviso is also famous for radicchio, also known as Italian chicory. This leaf vegetable is commonly used in Italian cuisine. Still, it is most popular in the area of Treviso, where in-season radicchio can be found everywhere, with many restaurants serving unique dishes with this dark red, bitter vegetable. Besides, Treviso is where tiramisu, one of the Italian national
desserts, originated. The traditional recipe was created in the 1960s by Ado Campeol - the owner of the historical restaurant “At the Beccherie”. Apart from local specialities, in Treviso, you can enjoy famous Italian dishes at their best. Before you head out for dinner, a glass of Spritz, the popular aperitif made with sparkling wine and Aperol or Campari, served with ‘cicchetti’ or just a bowl of crisps, is not to be missed.
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