Couples poses, 2 new ones
These poses will be included in the new “Poses for Artists”, Volume 4, which will drop this weekend.
Only one more day to pre-order at the discounted price.
Info at www.POSEmuse.com

JVL
let's talk about Bridgerton tea, my ask is open
YOU ARE THE REASON

Discoholic 🪩
Stranger Things
he wasn't even looking at me and he found me

Product Placement
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izzy's playlists!
sheepfilms
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DEAR READER
Keni

Andulka

Origami Around

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One Nice Bug Per Day

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Couples poses, 2 new ones
These poses will be included in the new “Poses for Artists”, Volume 4, which will drop this weekend.
Only one more day to pre-order at the discounted price.
Info at www.POSEmuse.com
3 new poses
Original model sheets for Walt Disney’s short, Chicken Little (1943). Via.
Don Towley’s original model sheets for Donald Duck (1937).
Dearest Kisu, the characters you draw are always full of like and dynamic! Do you have any tips to draw more dynamic characters/poses ? I love your art so much, you're such an inspiration to me
1. The action line:
It’s a line that you use when you create the posing that will help you translate a strenght/ an intention and give “a direction” to the body.
2. Perspective
It can help making a posing more dynamic if you vary angles, perspective and directions
3. Don’t be shy, exaggerate!
That’s how you really can translate mouvements through drawings!
4. Try to avoid “mirrorl” stuff.
It works very well when you want to do artistic stuff (like tarot card aesthetics) but not so much when you want it to look lively.
(Making hair and clothes flow help a lot too hahaha)
5. Try to do “one stroke” line so it doesn’t “break” the mouvement
THE SIGNS AS COLOUR PALETTES
Model sheet.
c. 1947.
Model sheet from Gulliver’s Travels (1939)
Model sheets.
(WB, 1940)
DreamWorks veteran Sébastien Wojda provides his expert tips for creating better character animation.
10 killer tips for better character animation
Monday, September 7th, 2015 | Article by Sébastien Wojda
1. Record video reference right
After deciding how to stage your character to maximize appeal and clarity, record video reference of you or a colleague acting out the shot. Make sure the camera angle is the same as in your shot, so that you know if the silhouette of the character will read clearly, and act using clear gestures.
While you’re recording, think about original ways to perform the shot. Do a lot of different takes, choose a few of the best, and use them as guides to film yourself again. This usually helps to get a clearer performance.
When you’re satisfied, import the video reference into your shot and synchronize it with the dialogue or audio.
2. Prepare your shot properly
Once that you have planned your animation, think about the controllers you’re going to use. Place the character’s global control in a position that enables you to use as few controls as possible. It’s better to use only translate Z to get the character to go forwards than to need to use both translate X and translate Z.
It’s also better to get the follow on the head set up in World mode, so whenever the character rotates its body, the head stays in the same position. This avoids the need for counter animation. It’s the same with the arms: set them up in Local mode only for physical shots, when the character is going to move a lot.
Use IK only for contact poses: otherwise stay in FK mode. It might be faster to block out a movement with IK, but it’s painful to deal with the inbetweens later in order to get the result to look believable.
3. Block out using step interpolation.
Based on your reference, block out your shot using step mode for interpolation (in Maya, Constant interpolation). Determine from your video reference which poses are key blocking poses, and try to place those keys on even-numbered frames so that it’s easier to add inbetweens and breakdowns later on.
4. Interpret the video reference: don’t just recreate it.
When posing the main keys, always remember which controls you used, and make sure that you always use the same ones so that you don’t end up with one control counter-animating another.Most of the time you’re going to have to exaggerate the poses to add more energy to your animation. Hide everything that could be distracting, like clothing, to really focus on the motion of the character’s body.
5.Get the order right when switching to spline interpolation
When going from step to spline interpolation (in Maya, Bezier interpolation mode), always start with the body’s translate Y control (up/down) in order to get the weight right. This is the most important requirement for a good animation. If possible, hide the other parts of the character – the head, arms and legs – so that it’s easier to focus on the main movements, then keep working on the body using translate X and Z and rotations.When you get the body moving in a believable way, work on the head with just keep the head and body visible; then the arms; and finally the legs. Depending on the length of your shot, work in small chunks: for example, 24 frames at a time. It’s easier to focus on small portions of the animation, and it looks less overwhelming. Always keep a video of the step-interpolated version of your shot to compare with your spline-interpolated version, and try to keep the same energy in the animation.
6. Use shark fin curves for facial animation
For facial animation, it’s sometimes good to use a type of curve called the ‘shark fin’, which helps to simulate rapid movements, like those of the eyebrows and lips.
If you look at the image above, you can see the movement starts quickly (1) before slowing down, creating a strong attack. This also works well with the eyelids. I also like to stop a movement before continuing it again, as you can see between points (2) and (3), so that the timing of the animation doesn’t look too even.Every part of the face moves really fast, especially the eyes, so try to get their movements to happen in one or two frames; three if the spacing is really big.
(Click on the link above to see the last four tips!)
Help is here! We've created a list of 10 tips that will get you started on successfully designing great characters easily.
A general list of reminders for those who are new to designing characters.
Borja Montoro
Character Designs by Borja Montoro
Zootopia
The Character Turnaround
What’s a character turnaround?
A character turnaround is a visual reference that shows a character from at least three angles. Turnarounds are essential for mediums that will be showing characters in the round, such as animation and comics. Artists use turnarounds to remind themselves to keep their character consistent and proportional, to pitch characters for projects, and as guides for teams where many people will be drawing the character and need to stay on model.
What does a character turnaround look like?
Above is a simple character turnaround featuring Skip the dog. A lot of turnarounds have lines drawn out that touch the key points on the figure (such as eyes, nose, thoracic arch, pelvis, where clothes hit, or whatever is most important to keep track of), and the corresponding parts at each angle need to match up. Because I put this turnaround together digitally, I used the rulers in photoshop and left the lines off the final. If you’re working by hand, a t-square is always a boon. As I said, Skip’s turnaround is pretty simple– it wouldn’t cut the mustard for, say, handing it out to an animation crew. However, it gives you a better sense of ol’ Skip as a three dimensional character, and is more useful for checking details of the design at different angles than this sketch from a single angle:
Animation turnarounds typically show a character holding one pose, in the key frames of spinning them around as though the camera was panning around them. Designs for games tend to also show one pose, and might do interesting things like pull the arm off in the side views so that the sides of the outfit can be seen more clearly. Studios and companies usually have a particular way of doing things that they like, so that everybody stays on the same page. If you’re making the turnaround for your own reference, you can use whatever method is most useful to you.
A Turnaround In Use
Above is a character turnaround of Jenny’s character Fred, from her upcoming thesis comic Making A Killing. Because she is making a comic, she’s going to have to draw Fred in a consistent way from panel to panel, over and over again– so having a character turnaround is going to be incredibly useful for her.
Jenny is the only artist on her project, so her reference work serves the purpose of being a guidepost and reminding her to keep her drawings tight and on model. If there were other artists who did not have Fred’s design in their head already, the turnarounds would introduce her look and create the standards for them to adhere to.
For comparison, here’s my rendition of Fred that I looked at the turnaround for:
You’ll notice that my version is a bit off model, especially in the proportions– her hair is too long, she is taller, her jacket is shorter and closer fitting. I added some extras to the outfit like her badges and socks. As official art for a franchise, this would be iffy. If this was going to be an animation frame, someone would wonder why Fred’s shoelaces disappeared for a second, and I’d be in trouble. However, if I was doing something like a guest cover for a comic where I was asked to do it in my style, it’d be fine. In this case, I do not work for Jenny and was in fact an actual gift horse, so my use of her turnarounds was for reference rather than as strict guidelines.
Tips and tricks
If you’re picky about heights (some people and mediums are, and some are very much of the ‘Fred is taller than Skip but shorter than Farley, but other than that anything goes’ persuasion), you can even make yourself a digital or hardcopy template with feet and inches marked out on it (useful if you want to put your character designs in a lineup later).
I’m a fan of scribbling notes to myself on my personal-use turnarounds, small reminders like ‘the hearing aid is in the RIGHT EAR’ or ‘three stripes on the tie’, or ‘wedding bands go on the left’. The guiding lines and repetition of pose can push you towards making a stiff, rigid pose– remember to make a flowing, loose gesture before tightening up the details of the sketch.
When choosing a pose for your turnaround, try to figure out what the most useful pose is. A pose that shows their character and typical posture while still being plain enough to observe information like numbers of buttons and length of arms is ideal.
If your character has a standard outfit and looks mostly the same in your work, one turnaround will probably serve just fine. If they have a lot of outfits that need to stay on model, or their appearance changes during the story, you’ll probably want to make turnarounds for those as well.
Further reading
How To Draw A Turnaround
Animation Lessons Part III: Turnarounds
Tutorial: Character Turnarounds
I hope that that gave you a better idea of what a turnaround is, and how it’s used. If you decide to make turnarounds of your characters and post them, feel free to tag FYCD– I’d love to see what you make. All images belong to me or Jenny, please be cool. Have fun working on your designs! -Evvy
Tutorial #7: Character Turnaround Sheet
A turnaround model sheet of your character can be a very useful tool. Animators and comic artists use turnaround model sheets to help them stay on-model as they draw characters from different angles and in varying poses. You can also use your turnaround sheet as a reference to create a maquette of your character.
Materials
pencil
paper
ruler
tracing paper (optional)
scanner/printer (optional)
Photoshop (optional)
Step 1
Once you’ve chosen a character you want to use, draw them in a front, three-quarter and side/profile view. You should choose a pose that conveys your character’s personality. For example, if your character is shy, you could draw them slightly hunched over, with their knees bent and pigeon-toed, as if they’re trying to hide themselves from the outside world.
I prefer to use relatively simple poses that will allow me to see the character’s body from all angles. You’re free to draw them in as dynamic a pose as you want. Just remember that you’ll be drawing this pose from various angles!
I started by loosely drawing the front, three-quarter and side/profile view free hand.
Tom Bancroft, author of Creating Characters With Personality, suggests you draw these three poses free hand, without restricting them to fit within a certain height. You can make adjustments later, to make your lineup cohesive. Avoiding restrictions at this point will allow you to experiment freely to find the strongest poses to use.
However, for the sake of cohesion, I suggest you try to keep the proportions relatively close to each other. For example, try to keep the eyes, nose, and mouth at around the same height within the face in each pose, the hands and clothes at about the same length, the hair within the same size, etc.
Step 2
Tighten your sketches a little bit more, taking into consideration the structure of your character and their geometric build up. This will help you maintain the shapes cohesive as they turn in space. (i.e. oval head, cylindrical legs and arms, cone torso, etc.)
I focused on strengthening the structure of the character and tried to keep it cohesive throughout by basing my second round of sketches on geometric structures (you can omit the character’s arm in profile view to allow a better view of the torso).
I used tracing paper over my original sketches to define the geometric buildup. I then tightened my sketches basing the form on the geometric structures I defined. Note that at this point I added more detail to the outline and structure of the face in particular.
It’s important to keep human anatomy in mind when you begin to define your character’s silhouette in three-quarter and profile view. You might want to look up references as you work, use a mirror or ask a friend to pose for you.
Keep in mind that foreheads, noses and chins often protrude noticeably, as well as the back of the head. These are key in creating an appealing and believable head shape. Eyes rest within eye sockets, which will make them much less visible in profile view. Try to visualize your character’s form in three dimensional space as you draw. Think of the volume of the shapes and how they would look from a particular angle.
Flat shapes are boring and do little to create the illusion of volume in a drawing. Take care to create variation within your character’s silhouette. Even if your character is skinny, their body will have mass and volume. Use this opportunity to really try to understand the way your design would work in three dimensional space.
Step 3
To create the back and back three-quarter views, take your front and three-quarter views and flip them horizontally to use as a reference. I scanned mine and flipped them in Photoshop. If you don’t have access to these, you could use tracing paper or a light box or draw them free hand.
Tracing paper: trace your sketches, then turn the sheet upside down for the flipped version.
Light box: place your sketch upside down on the light box to get the flipped version.
Place tracing paper over your flipped sketches and draw the back view of each pose.
I flipped the sketches on the left and referenced them, using tracing paper, to create the back and three-quarter back views to the right.
The purpose of the flipped sketch is to provide a silhouette you can base yourself on, but don’t get stuck on trying to keep the silhouette perfect. Make adjustments as you see fit to accurately portray the pose from the angle you’re looking at it. Use geometric structures to help you visualize the shapes as you would see them from behind.
When you see the face in your flipped sketch, imagine what the back of the head would look like. Is the character wearing a hat? What kind of hairstyle do they have?
When you see the torso, picture what the back of it would look like. Is the character standing up straight or hunched over? Would the torso be pointing toward the viewer or away from him? (in my case it’s pointing away).
When you see the feet and hands, picture how much of the toes and fingers you would see from behind. Would you see them at all?
Step 4
Tighten your lineup and make necessary adjustments to make the figures align properly. Photoshop can be very useful in this instance, since it allows you to select specific areas and realign, stretch and rotate them however you want.
If you don’t have access to Photoshop, you can use a ruler to create guides for yourself.
I put all my sketches together in Photoshop, added guides, and made all necessary adjustments to the sketch before finalizing the turnaround sheet.
More Examples
Turnaround model sheets for my characters Luther and Sloan.
The Sumatran Golden Lion (also called the Cigau - pronounced chee-ghow) is a supposed golden colored medium-sized feline. Eye witnesses claim that this cat resides around the town of Bangko and Mount Kerinci. It has a very short tail and is said to be shorter and stronger than a tiger. It is an aggressive animal and has attacked humans in the past.
This beast reportedly killed someone in the 1960s as cryptozoologist Richard Freeman described:
“In the dead of night the Cigau came from the forest to claim him. It stalked right into their camp and dragged him off into the darkness. It was smaller but stockier than a tiger. It had a silvery lion like mane and golden fur. Its forelegs were longer than its back legs like the build of a hyena. It had a short, tufted, cow like tail. The men searched the jungle frantically for their lost comrade but when they found him he was minus a stomach, disemboweled by the Cigau.”
Tumblr makes it look really low quality, but they’re fine if you click on them~ :)
Tutorial time! Here’s a quick hair tip tutorial for eat-my-shxrts (I’m working on the eyes/facial features one, but since I finished this one I thought I’d post it :) Hope this is helpful, I wish I was better at explaining how I draw XD
I also included a process gif! Featuring some of my faves with varying hairstyles~ :) <3