Smokestak
It’s always cool to visit a place that has an interesting backstory. Once a front-of-house manager at Gordon Ramsay’s and Roka, Smokestak’s David Carter first made his success on the streets of London, producing barbecued meats for hordes of hungry carnivores; since then, he’s found a new home for the monster of a smoker he brought back from Texas. Minutes away from Shoreditch High Street (Overground), Smokestak sits discreetly on the corner of the street with its minimalist exterior decor. On the inside, its industrial-ish design gives off a real steampunk tavern vibe, especially so with the smoker looming in the shadows overlooking patrons. It’s both rough and elegant at the same time, with the smell of barbecue permeating the air and constantly tickling the back of your throat.
I guess this is what it’s like to walk into a giant smoker.
The doors at the entrance really foreshadow the kind of food that’s made here; it’s heavy. Much of the menu emphasizes smoky, dark flavors, with a few, lighter and brighter options to balance that out. It’s split into five sections - snacks, starters, mains, sides, and desserts. Of the snacks that were offered, the Pigtails (4.5) were perhaps the most satisfactory, essentially chunks of tail with crisp outer shells protecting soft flesh within, soaked in a dark, honey-based sauce, and it comes in a decent serving size. The other snacks we got weren’t as memorable, with the Cured Pigs Jowl (2.5) as pretty much a few small slices of crispy bacon (to be fair, it was really, really crispy bacon...), and the Padron Tempura (3.5) really feels like an excuse to put any form of vegetable on the menu (The tempura option uses varying vegetables, check the menu before visiting!). Unfortunately, we skipped the Crispy Ox Cheek (4.5), which may have been a game-changing item.
Coming at a fiver each, the Beef Brisket Bun offers a taste of one of Smokestak’s famous brisket. It comes as a rolled slice of brisket and pickled chillis between a crisp, buttery bun. In terms of texture, the meat reminds me very much of salt beef, except it comes with pockets of amazing, glistening pockets of flavorful fat along the edge that melt in your mouth to coat your bite. Another starter that I thoroughly enjoyed was the Wild Mushrooms with Beef Dripping Toast (7.5). You can’t go wrong with a pile of sautéed, fleshy mushrooms that take on the intense taste of charred beef, sitting on a bed of thick toast.
In all honesty, I preferred the Thick-Cut Pork Ribs (9) more so than the Beef Brisket (9.5), which was fairly small. The ribs come lathered with a thick coat of sauce, yet it’s not really too overpowering, instead bridging the flavors of char on its surface and the meat itself, which comes through clearly. It’s not melt-in-your-mouth levels of soft, as it does have a bite to it, but it’s good enough. Like the beef brisket, the Monkfish Tail (11.5) is small, but it’s still good, succulent fried fish as an option for non-meat customers. Sides are a decent size, although the Celery, Almond and Preserved Lemon Slaw (4) was perhaps a bit too drippy for my liking, even if it did bring that citrus balance to cut through the smokiness. The Jacket Potato with Smoked Rarebit (5) was huge, though, and goes a long way in filling up the remaining space in one’s stomach. Potato pottage in a half shell of baked skin, with an airy cheese layer on top; what more do you need?
This.
Once upon a time, back home, I had the most amazing slice of cake that came DRENCHED in a butterscotch sauce - one of the most indulgent desserts I’ve ever had. Since then, this is the closest thing that has replicated that experience. Even so, at 6.5 pounds, the Sticky Toffee Pudding with Burnt Butter Ice Cream is a bit pricy, perhaps better suited for special occasions. It’s rich and moist, with a toffee glaze that has a well-rounded and deep flavor, yet isn’t too sweet.
I know I like this place because I’ve woken up the next morning wishing I had another plate of meat in front of me, and I know I will make that a reality without feeling too hard of pinch on food funds; it’s a nice place to hang out with a bunch of friends, order a bunch of different meats for a taste of decent American-style barbecue, maybe grab some drinks at the bar and hopefully leave without spending more than about 15 pounds.












