The Best Makgeolli to Buy―And a Recipe to Try Making It at Home
Makgeolli may be the most unsung of rice drinks.
Sake and soju are easy to find at this point. But the milky-white, somewhat sweet, and deliciously-light makgeolli is harder to find outside Korean restaurants and markets. And the secret―it’s actually best when made fresh.
Store-bought makgeolli in the U.S. is pasteurized so it can make the long journey from Korea. It’s also sweeter and sometimes flavored. But makgeolli started as a no-frills drink that farmers would make for their workers, not so dissimilar from a saison beer in France or Belgium. All you need is rice, water, sugar, and a special starter enzyme called nuruk. And the best way to drink it is fresh―it’s thicker, less sweet, and more filling than any of the bottled or canned stuff you can buy.
If you’re buying it, we prefer Makku, which is reasonably available in New York City. Also, if you head to Flushing and you look really hard, you can find NY Saeng Mak, an incredible makgeolli made upstate.
It’s tricky to make at home, but the team at Majordōmo has been trying, and failing. Here’s what we’ve learned―with a little help from their favorite food blog, Maangchi.
Ingredients:
5 cups short grain rice, washed and soaked in cold water for at least 2 hours
1½ cups nuruk (starter culture)
1 package of dry yeast
¼ cup sugar (optional)
Step 2 – Dry the rice.
Chances are you’re trying this at home you don’t have an electric dehydrator. Spread the rice in a shallow basket set in breezy, sunny place, or place in the refrigerator, and let it dry for a few hours until each grain is hard on the outside but still moist on the inside.
Step 3 – Begin the ferment.
Place the dried rice, nuruk, yeast, and 8 cups of water in an ongii or any earthenware crock. Our ongii at Majordōmo are made by Adam Field. The importance here is breathability―the vessel needs to be able to breath. When you cover it, place a cotton cloth to further help with air circulation. Then, let it sit. After several hours, stir the thick paste with a wooden spoon, then recover overnight.
Step 4 – Keep on stirring.
When you uncover the next day, you will see a lot of bubbles, and the mixture will be thinner. Stir and cover again. And keep on stirring a few times a day for the next few days. By day 4 or 5, there will be fewer bubbles, and the mixture will have separated: clear liquid on the top, milky and more solid on the bottom. The solution―just keep on stirring for a few more days.
Step 5 – Ready for drinking.
By day 8 or 9, the top liquid will be clear and amber in color. This means it is ready to drink. Strain into a large bowl. Be sure to press solids with your spoon to get as much liquid as possible out of them before discarding. Add 8 cups of water and sugar to taste, if desired.
Strain one more time, then jar, and drink chilled. Homemade makgeolli lasts in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 weeks.