Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (Weeks 4 - 5) PART 2

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Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (Weeks 4 - 5) PART 2
Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (Weeks 4 - 5) PART 1
Eastern Cape Province, South Africa (Weeks 4 - 5)
Ah, the Eastern Cape! John became a pro beekeeper… or at least he was a good lackey. John’s uncle keeps bees as a hobby and it was harvesting time while we were there, so we got a little taste of what it is like to be a beekeeper. Debra (and the media) calls them “killer bees” because they are not nice and polite like Canadian bees (though some would disagree with using the terms “nice” and “polite” for any type of stinging creature). The African bees were actually dive bombing John and his uncle when they were collecting the honey, and they fought bravely for home and honey. Unfortunately, they lost, and we gained some 10 kilograms of golden deliciousness out of the six productive hives. Conveniently, there were only two beekeeping suits, so Debra did not get close, but she did take some great pics with her zoom lens. We also spent a lot of time visiting, and just driving around the area on the 4x4, enjoying the beautiful scenic routes of South Africa.
After a few days’ visit we went to see John’s cousins near East London. Here we went on a few hikes and took in the scenes of untamed greenery. It is so beautiful to be far in the woods where all you can hear is birds, rustling leaves, and various small critters scurrying around. Many ticks hitchhiked on our clothes, but luckily none found nice warm skin to burrow in.
Our last stop in the Eastern Cape was in Jeffreys Bay to visit John’s other grandma, Ouma Betsy. What a wonderful lady. She is blessed to live right along the coast in one of the best surfing spots in the world. Not only that, J-Bay’s beaches are big and beautiful, and if you are into scouring for seashells, then this is the place for you. We loved taking Ouma to the beach to go get some sun and really enjoyed the relaxed vibe of this small town. Also, the shopping is quite good; in fact, J-Bay has a Billabong factory outlet, so we got some great deals on otherwise pricey swag). We got a few traditional recipes from Ouma, and you should have heard the debate over what a proper tablespoon is (apparently, the correct term is “dessert spoon” in SA; the so-called table spoon is what Canadians/Americans would call a serving spoon). Needless to say, translating the recipes was a comedy of errors, and we hope that the finished products will taste like they are supposed to. Even if one doesn’t have family in this cozy coast town it is definitely a must-do for any trip to SA.
Destination #9: South Africa (KwaZulu-Natal Province)
Kwa-Zulu Natal Province, South Africa (Week 3)
We decided to leave the heat of Elisras for cooler temperatures, so we headed inland to the metropolis of Newcastle. Similar to its UK counterpart, South Africa’s Newcastle is also a hub of steel manufacturing. More importantly, though, it is also the home of John’s great-grandmother, Ouma Marie. What an amazing woman! Currently 95, Ouma Marie is 100% blind, and has been so for almost 40 years. However, we are convinced that her mind is sharper than ours (she still remembers what she was doing in 1943). Her favourite hobby is crocheting, having completed 11 full-size tablecloths for her grandchildren and great-grandchildren. This was the hardest good-bye, as one knows that at that age, and being so far away, each visit is a blessing! We spent each day laughing and telling stories. Our favorite was trying to explain to her how Skype works – Ouma was scandalized by the sophistication of technology, especially that we could see our family through the computer even though they were thousands of miles away.
Leaving Newcastle, we travelled down to Pietermaritzburg to visit John’s great-uncle and great-aunt. They are such an amazing and incredibly talented couple! We were able to check out his hatchery, where twice every week thousands of chicks hatch all at the same time, and they are sorted and sent to a chicken farm. Such cute little things… too bad we like chicken so much =)
In one of the photos, you will notice that we are in the kitchen, doing some cooking. What we are making is a South African delicacy known as koeksisters. It is a delicious, twisted piece of baking, saturated in syrup that tastes like heaven in your mouth. What a treat to make and eat!
DESTINATION #9: South Africa (Limpopo Province)
To our loyal followers: we apologize for the long gaps in between postings--the internet in this beautiful country does leave something to be desired. We will be doing a mass uploading in the next couple of days. Thanks, and enjoy!
DESTINATION #9: Limpopo Province, South Africa (Weeks 1 - 2)
Welcome to the final destination of our hundred-day journey: the wild land of South Africa. Not necessarily known for its political stability, yet also revered for its ability to adapt and change, the Rainbow Nation was on our must-do list of travel spots.
Because John’s family has lived in South Africa since 1665, this portion of our journey was about rekindling familial bonds and exploring the land of his birth. Because of this, some of the stories shared may not make for excellent commentary on travelling through SA, but will help to give you a glimpse of the diversity of this land.
We spent our first two weeks in the Limpopo Province, known for its heat and road construction. The first week we spent at a retirement village with Ouma & Oupa Myburgh, and we had such a good time. The wonderful thing about being in a retirement village is that nap time is almost mandatory – or at least noise is forbidden during that time – a unwritten law, but clearly understood, and boy did we love it! John also spent his 27th birthday here: significant because it has been at least 19 years since he had spent his birthday with his grandparents, and 19 years since he has had a braai (barbeque) on it, making it extra special. Oupa and Ouma took us for a wonderful visit to Klein Kariba, a wonderful resort with 3 heated pools and lots of beauty. Although we must say that a heated pool in Africa seems like a bit of overkill, one gets used to it. We hope that heated pools will maybe cross the Atlantic to Canada sometime soon…
After our restful introduction to Limpopo, we spent our second week in Elisras (recently renamed Lephalale) (close to the Botswana border) and although we did not get a picture of it, the temperature fluctuated from 40 to 50 ˚C—pretty freakin’ hot! When we were able to catch a bit of a breeze it felt like someone was holding a hair dryer to your face. At least it did cool down at night time… to about 30˚. Other than the heat, we had so much fun here. We were visiting John’s auntie and her family here. Each morning we slept in, and spent the rest of the afternoon and evening visiting and laughing. A definite highlight: Aunt W’s automated espresso machine. Just one more thing to buy when we have real jobs again…
Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain (Days 1 - 4)
DESTINATION #8: Barcelona, Spain (Days 1 - 4)
Barcelona was the unexpected gem along our travels. Initially we were only planning on passing through, but at the recommendation of our travel agent, we switched our plans to stay for a few days, and were we ever glad! Other than the fact that our brains were incredibly confused by having a different language and culture every 4 days, we had a blast! The great thing about Barcelona is that it is very laid back, and has an incredible efficient public transportation system which takes a lot of frustration out of travelling.
If you ever go to Barcelona you will quickly realize the influence that Antoni Gaudi had on this city. His practice of modernista art revolutionized the architecture of Barcelona. An engineer and designer, Gaudi was truly a man before his time. Sagrada Familia, a cathedral that he designed in 1883, is by far Gaudi’s most magnificent achievement. After travelling all over the world we think we could say this is the most beautiful church we have ever seen. They are still constructing it according to his plans from 1883, and it is not scheduled to be completed until 2030, due to the complexity and intricacy of his designs for it. Gaudi planned each aspect of the building—from the colors, to where the light shines in, to its location in the city—all with a symbolic purpose. Large donations have been made to continue this project, but after seeing many churches full of gold and expensive artifacts, it would seem that the money spent on Sagrada Familia has not been merely for extravagance, but rather for the glory of God. Whether you consider yourself a believer or not, at the very least this building will awe you\
The beaches beautiful aspect of Barcelona; however, we have very few pictures due to the fact that women go topless here. We will give you an important hint though – it is often not the young and pretty who show their wares, so don’t get too excited!
Barcelona is also great for shopping and night life. It is such a vibrant university city with friendly people and many excellent attractions, making it a great tourist destination and an excellent place to unwind and experience Catalonian culture. Another important hint: Barcelona is in a region called Catalonia, which considers itself to be an independent state from Spain. Spanish is second to Catalan there, so don’t make the mistake of thinking that Spanish will get you in the locals’ good books. Many Catalonian are very passionate about their independence from the so-called “Spanish invaders.” That being said, Barcelona should be a must-do on your list of places to visit.
Paris, France (Days 1 - 4)
DESTINATION #7: Paris, France (Days 1 - 4)
We spent four days in Paris, the City of Love (as well as the City of Light, though we think New York holds that title) and enjoyed our time there very much. It rained a few times each day, but that did not stop us from exploring this majestic city. The name “Paris” carries mystique with it, making it somewhere you just have to visit to fully experience. Here is a little taste of our experiences there.
Of course, one of our first stops was the Eiffel Tower, a structure built for the World Fair and later used for the transmission of radio. Now, the so-called “metal asparagus” is a beloved Parisian landmark for locals and tourists alike. It was raining while we stood in line for an hour to make our way to the top of the tower, but the sun came out just before our elevator took us up, just in time for perfect pictures and a beautiful view of the city.
Next on our journey was the Louvre Museum where we saw the original copy of the Mona Lisa, and thousands of other exhibits. We just scratched the surface of this incredible museum, for one could spend weeks exploring it to fully see each wing. After the Louvre, we spent the day at Versailles, enjoying Louis XIV’s majestic palace. We had an audio guide walk us though each corridor of the palace. Our highlights at Versailles were the Hall of Mirrors, the desk used for the signing of WWII’s armistice, the countless amount of gold used for decorations, and the secret passageways between the rooms.
We enjoyed the food, and of course the delicious French wine (especially the Bordeaux!). And we were so thankful that our food products are all bilingual in Canada because it helped us recognise the names when we had to order our meals in French!
We even made it to the Galleries Lafayette, a huge shopping mall (actually, three separate buildings chock-full of clothing and accessories), where we looked at a lot of stuff and bought nothing, mainly due to France using the euro, and the shops being filled with designer labels such as Gucci and Prada. John even held a pair of high heels that were priced at €1200 or about $2000. The real shock of these high heels was not the price, however. It was the fact that they looked like a little kid had Bedazzled them with rhinestones in a very unpleasing manner, somehow making Prada not seem so elegant.
One of our last stops was to visit Notre Dame Cathedral, and walk alone the river and through the streets of Paris.
We don’t know exactly what it is about this city, but it is truly romantic, mysterious and worthwhile. We will be going back.
Rome, Italy (Days 1 - 4)
DESTINATION #6: Rome, Italy (Days 1 - 4)
The Eternal City, the starting point for the study of Western history, and a city of legendary proportions: one can only be talking about Rome. Our visit to this monumental city lasted for several days, but we will give you the highlights so that you can traverse the whole with us without getting bored.
We started off our tour where everyone probably does: at the Colosseum, Rome’s most famous monument. Because we were visiting it on the weekend and because we arrived relatively early, we were able to get in within twenty minutes (many people wait as long as two hours!). The Colosseum was definitely a wonder of ancient architecture. It was designed in such a fashion as to be able to seat 50,000 spectators within 10 minutes! Even cooler was the fact that it was designed with a retractable sun covering, powered by 1,000 Roman naval soldiers.
We also took a walk through the Roman Forum, the area beside the Colosseum where life in ancient Rome took place. It was here where the majority of temples were, as well as the Senate, the marketplace and in later times, the palaces of the emperors. Because of the amount of restoration going on, many of the sites were closed to the public.
Kind of by accident we stumbled across the Mamertine prison, Rome’s first maximum security prison. It was a subterranean prison that prisoners were lowered into. It also happened to be a well, so many prisoners did not stay long (sleeping is a bit difficult in water, unless you’re a fish, I guess). The Mamertine held some of Rome’s most notorious enemies, namely Vercigentorix, king of the Gauls, and the apostles Peter and Paul. It was a neat tour.
Rome can be summed up as consisting of three things: restaurants, plazas and churches. We visited all three because they exist there in abundance. Two churches stick out from our visit there. The first was the Jesuit mother church called Il Gesu. If anything is apparent about the Jesuit order it is that their members came from wealthy families. Il Gesu is probably the most lavish church we have seen, decorated in the Baroque style and laden with jewels and precious metals (the Jesuit emblem above the altar is made out of one solid piece of lapis lazuli).The ceiling is also incredible, adorned with a painting entitled, “Triumph of the Name of Jesus,” by Giovanni Battista Gaulli. It tells the story of the Last Judgment as recorded in the Bible, with the faithful ascending to heaven and the wicked being cast down into hell. The painting has a 3-D effect, making one feel that they can see the bodies being hurtled to the ground. Though the painting is perhaps unsettling, it is still beautiful.
The second church was home to a strange emblem, the Bocca della Verita (literally, “the mouth of truth”), a round stone face on an exterior wall of the church (you may know of its existence because of Audrey Hepburn’s movie, Roman Holiday or a Robert Downey Jr. movie Only You). A legend began in the Middle Ages that if one lied while having one’s hand in the sculpture’s mouth, they would be struck dead. To further propagate this legend, the parish priest of the time kept a live scorpion in the mouth of the sculpture. Debra and I did however find one loophole to this form of a lie detector test: simply lie to someone without your hand in the Bocca’s mouth.
No visit to Rome can be complete without a visit to the Fontana di Trevi, a lovely fountain in a lovely shopping district. This is the legendary fountain where one is supposed to throw in coins in order to come back to Rome sooner. However, with the conversion cost of the Euro, we figured we’d best hasten our return by not throwing our money in the water. We did however capture a few pics before heading on our way.
A lovely little surprise we encountered was an exhibit of Leonardo da Vinci’s inventions. We were actually on our way somewhere else when we found this little gem of a stop. Da Vinci truly was brilliant! Beyond inspiring a Hollywood movie or two, his keen interest in mechanics, robotics, fashion, astronomy, geometry, military science, art and medicine were before his time. It is also beautifully ironic that his works have returned to this city that so long ago rejected him as heretical and forced him to renounce his ideas. If I can only remember the words to that Alanis Morrisette song…
We were fortunate enough to visit many other stops while in Rome, but these are the ones that stick out the most and probably are the most interesting. The reality is that one can’t really see all of Rome in four days. However, we felt that we did a pretty good job at seeing the things that struck us as interesting and worthwhile. So we hope you’ve enjoyed this little update on our time in this amazing city.
Vatican City (Day 1)
DESTINATION #5: Vatican City
After disembarking from the cruise today (sad face) we joined a tour going to Vatican City. This is what we discovered. Firstly, that going on an organized tour to Vatican is probably the smartest choice; when we reached the Vatican Museums at 8:00 am there was already a cue stretching around the entire block towards the museum. At that point in the day people were already looking at a minimum of 2 hours before getting in. Secondly, that Vatican is so huge that in order to really see everything (anything?), you would have to be willing to devote several days to the place. Thirdly, that going with a tour through a place doesn’t actually mean that you see everything (or depending on the speed of the tour guide, anything). So, either you’re hooped by getting in with a group and feeling rushed, or else you’re hooped by spending your entire vacation at Vatican. We opted for the former, mainly because it ended up saving us a lot of time to do other things while in Rome, and time is the traveller’s most precious commodity.
That being said, our tour through the Vatican was breathtaking. The halls and halls of artifacts in the museums are incredible! Many popes, especially the ones that didn’t take the job for spiritual purposes, invested hundreds of millions of dollars into the collection of art and artifacts from nearly every era. In fact, the Roman Catholic Church was for many years the biggest sponsors for archeological finds. However, the museums leave a bittersweet taste in your mouth when you consider that these artifacts were collected with church money. So, while many popes were filling their palaces with these beautiful, expensive masterpieces, some medieval peasant was scraping together their last pennies to fill the church coffers, in hopes that his offerings would free his loved ones from purgatory. Something about that feels a little wrong.
At the same time, walking into the Sistine Chapel and seeing the painstaking detail of Michelangelo’s piece de resistance causes a surge of worship to spring up from within one’s soul. It truly is beautiful, and the story it tells, the story of the Christian narrative, is done in a magnificent way. Because Michelangelo’s work is done in fresco we could not take any pictures (especially because most tourists don’t seem to understand the words, “No flash.” Flash photography in large amounts damages fresco paintings in no time). However, one can find many wonderful professional photographs of this work online, so take the time to check it out.
Our last stop was the crowning glory of the Roman Catholic Church, St. Peter’s Basilica. It is the largest basilica in the world and is the Pope’s main stomping grounds. It also houses the bodies of 95% of the popes as well as other dignitaries and patrons (for instance, some members of the Scottish Stuart royal family are lucky enough to be buried there). One cool thing about St. Peter’s is that they replaced all the original fresco paintings inside it with mosaic tiling so one can take as many photos as one likes. For a basilica, it is pretty impressive, with several chapels and well-known art pieces (such as Michelangelo’s Pieta) to enjoy. One of the weirdest aspects of Catholic worship is the practise of veneration, best seen in how they mummify their popes and place them in glass coffins so that the faithful can lay eyes on them. It was very interesting to watch the faithful stream by the glass coffin of the last pope, John Paul II. It was obviously a very powerful moment for some because they were weeping as they passed it.
I want to take a moment to make it clear that we are not Roman Catholic bashers. We have great respect for the Catholic Church and for the many good things they have done (public education, healthcare and social services, just to name a few); it is just hard to see when the message of religion becomes secondary to materialistic goals, as witnessed by the vast treasuries of the Vatican. It is our sincere hope that the current leaders of the church will remain faithful to the message of the founder of their religion: to feed the hungry, clothe the naked and faithfully live out the compassion of Jesus.
Mykonos, Greece (Day 8)
Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey (Day 7)
We uploaded these pictures separate from the written blog because of size restrictions.
The Celsus Library is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
As you can see, not much remains of St. John's Basilica, but some of the key architectural pieces are still intact. Everything built in red brick is not original but has been done to aid in the viewer's understanding of how it would have looked.
The House of Mary is today a chapel of prayer and pilgrimage, and has been rebuilt over the centuries (hence, the style of it today is not how it would have looked originally).