The most fantastical (and creepiest) flower I have ever seen in my life. Singapore Supertrees, at the base of one of the super trees.

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@nehsheh
The most fantastical (and creepiest) flower I have ever seen in my life. Singapore Supertrees, at the base of one of the super trees.
They put me in the middle because I was in a dress. Princess much? I think yes.
Photo cred: K. Luyen.
And now a series I like to call "My Favorite Pictures". A complex name, I know. But now I'm looking through the old photos and loving it just as much as I loved it all the first time. Between the friends I made, the things I learned, and the experiences I had, I feel fulfilled.
Photo cred: W. Poon.
Quick Tips
Helpful things I learned during my travels in southeast Asia:
1. Loose cotton clothing. None of this "leggings" crap. Yes, they're thin and cotton, but anything that is within 3/4" of your skin will feel too tight and make you sweaty.
2. Don't open anything sterile outside the BSC. This is especially important.
3. Keep your EZ Link card topped up. If the value dips below approximately $2.50, you can't ride the MRT. And let me tell you, it's really embarassing to make all your friends wait for you as you top up.
4. If you have a prepaid SIM card and a smart phone, turn off the 3G. Or you will end up buying $18 credits every few days.
5. Don't bring running shoes. Even if you fully intend to work out, A) you probably won't, and B) it's a waste of suitcase space. Bring shoes that you can work out AND do other stuff in. Casual sneakers. Multipurpose.
6. Bring more than one toothbrush. You will drop one on the ground at some point. You know what's on the ground? Fecal matter and E. coli.
7. Neosporin and tweezers are always good to keep around.
8. Learn how to pack 3 days worth of clothes and other travel crap into one backpack. And keep it light. I did and I am HUGELY [insanely, disproportionally] proud of it.
9. Enunciate. Californian accents are one of the more easily understood American accents (news anchors nationally are told to speak with this accent), but it's still an American accent. We truncate a lot of sounds that are important to meaning. Test for my Californian peeps: pronounce "can"/"can't" and "butter". You barely say the /t/ sound in "can't", and you probably say something closer to "budder".
10. Conversely, you will have a hard time understanding other accents. Try to pick up fast, although I'm not sure there's much you can do to speed up the process. I will say that it's really embarassing to be the kid that asks everyone to repeat themselves 6 times.
11. Don't smile around monkeys. Showing teeth is a sign of dominance/aggression in monkeys, and you WILL piss off some primates by doing this.
12. If you wanna travel, take midnight buses. Don't bother with planes. Broke college kids can appreciate the money saved by buses. Make it a midnight bus and you sleep through the ride, which gives you the entire next day to explore your destination.
13. Keep an extra, charged camera battery with you. You don't need to carry the charger that way. Actually, this is good for almost any scenario in which the battery for your electronic device is smaller and lighter than the charger.
14. Make sure your credit and debit cards work abroad. In-store and/or online.
15. Customer service and wifi are not the same as back in the US. You are not the king, and you will be off the grid sometimes.
16. Get familiar with a map that's NOT on your phone, wherever you go. You can't always use a GPS, but you should always know (at least approximately) where you are.
17. Entertaining, fun, even spiritually-fulfilling, once-in-a-lifetime activities don't have to be expensive.
18. Go make friends. Be social. Have adventures. You didn't travel all this way just to sit inside.
Fusion Cuisine
Indian food here isn't just Indian food, desi khana; it's Indo-Singaporean fusion cuisine. If you go to any Indian stall at a hawker center, these are some things you might find:
1. Roti prata - it's one word and it looks nothing like either of its namesakes. It's like a buttery, round ("roti" refers to any round bread-like food here, really), flat pastry with multiple flaky layers. Definitely not a roti or a prata... maybe closest to a bhatura, but slightly sweeter.
2. Roti john - Scrambled egg sandwich. With multicolored ketchup.
3. Puttu mayam - This, I've been told, is a food of the Telegu community, but I've never had it before. Rice noodles served with grated coconut and colored sugar. Dessert, quite good.
4. Nasi goreng/mee goreng - Noodles! I believe some permutation of fried noodles and soup-noodles (if that made sense).
5. Rojak - grilled/fried everything on a plate. And by "everything", I mean mostly a random conglomerate of vegetables.
I would be at fault if I didn't mention some signature Singaporean dishes, so here we go:
1. Ice kachang - Construct this in your head: get a glass bowl. Fill the bottom with sweet corn and red kidney beans. Build a mountain of shaved ice on top. Add grass jelly (literally, jelly made of grass. Lawn Jello...not really. It's not what you think.), various flavored syrups, and maybe tapioca balls. BOOM. Ice kachang.
2. Carrot cake - No carrots, not a cake. It's white turnip-scrambled eggs, but turnips are translated as white carrots from Chinese.
3. Laksa - soup and noodles featuring traditional Peranakan flavors, which refers to Malay-Chinese fusion cuisine and culture.
4. Teh Tarik - "pulled tea" (translated from Malay) and coffee. It's ginger chai cooled down by pouring back and forth between two cups.
5. Kaya toast and ice kopi - I had a whole post about this earlier. Whoever meets me in person will get a full, gushing description again.
I wanted to wait til I had pictures of all of these to accompany this post, but that just didn't happen. Oh well. Have fun using your imagination to visualize most of these. Or Google them.
Also, I just found out there's a Kopitiam (not the same as the one in Singapore, but similar) in Milpitias: http://www.kopi-cafe.com
The Merlion! It's the symbol of Singapore. In Sanskrit, "singa"/"simha" means "lion", so Singapore/Simhapura is literally "Lion City". Legend has it that the grandson of Alexander the Great was on a hunting expedition one day; he chased his game up a hill but dropped everything when he saw an island glimmering in the distance. He set up an expedition to explore it, and the first creature he greeted on the island was a lion. The fish body comes from Singapore's history as a fishing village, known in the native tongue (Old Javanese, not Singlish) as "temasek".
Strangely, the creature our great explorer saw was most likely a tiger, not a lion - lions aren't native to Singapore...Oh, history...
Singapore Supertrees. At at at night.
Back in SJ
Touched down about two hours ago, showered and chillin at home now. It's apparently been such a long time since I've had American things that I've forgotten my traditional Starbucks order. Doesn't matter, because I like Singaporean kopi anyway. That is one thing I'll definitely miss.
More posts to come, because I am not done talking yet. (Doubt I ever will be, but for now, I have some relevant things about SG left to say.)
My Mother is in Town!
Yes she is! She landed last Wednesday, and I’ve been trying to give an express tour of Singapore. I want her to see what I’ve been living for the past eight weeks, but I still had to work in the daytime, so our "express tour" consisted of this:
Wednesday: Little India in the morning with Moushumi Aunty and getting over jetlag in the evening.
Thursday: Little India again with Aunty (a lady’s gotta get her shopping on, right? I mean I benefited from their shopping trips, so no complaints here.) in the morning, and Chinatown in the evening. I showed her the South Indian temple and attempted to show her the Buddhist Tooth Relic temple, but it was closed when we got there. Still beautiful from the outside:
Friday: Orchard St. in the morning with Aunty, and a river cruise with me in the evening. We started in Clarke Quay and went around Marina Bay, so she got to see (at least from a distance) Merlion Park, the Helix Bridge, the Esplanade, Marina Bay Sands, the Art and Science Museum, and the Singapore skyline.
Saturday: I may have signed us up for too much today, because there was a LOT of walking involved. In the morning, we hit up the Botanic Gardens; we had been there 14 years ago, but the passion for botany doesn't die so easily, so I decided to make Amma relive this. Only my mother would be able to recognize and differentiate dendrobiums and cymbidiums and vandas. I just nodded in awe the whole day, really. Then, we hopped, skipped, and jumped over to Orchard St. (actually, we took the bus, but there’s very little room for word play in that). After some good shopping, we took the MRT to the Gardens by the Bay. We toured the Cloud Forest exhibit and saw the Supertrees at night. Beautiful! But again, a LOT of walking. (Hopefully it was worth it, right Mamma?)
Sunday: This was another day for reliving memories. My mom has already seen the Botanic Gardens and Sentosa, but that was 14 years ago. Today, we took the cable car to Sentosa with the Das family and relived the scenery. Or whatever tiny bit of it remained intact since then. Apparently, the island has changed drastically (not that I’d remember, being about 4 years old at the time and all.) We toured the Merlion and had some snappy snaps (pictures) taken. We concluded the day with a nice drive around Marina Bay.
Monday: Actual last day in SG! We did the one thing that was left on my personal bucketlist and something Amma had wanted to do as well – the Singapore Flyer. And it was pretty cool! This way, my mom got to see the bay during the daytime, and it was still an epic view (in my opinion. Amma has to start her own tumblr to tell you what she thinks.) Singapore being very good at constructing tourist traps, there was a shopping and entertainment complex at the base of the flyer. We were magnetically pulled towards a spa that offered the latest in Asian spa treatments: doctor fish. Basically, you dip your feet into a tub of fish whose diet is primarily (if not entirely) dead skin cells. EW! Jk. Oh biology, you never cease to amaze me. Apparently these little critters were discovered in Turkey and became a huge hit here in SE Asia. The verdict? IT TICKLES! It’s not the most vigorous spa treatment in the world, but I guess my feet feel softer… Anyway, worth the experience.
My mom and I hit up Chinatown one last time for souvenirs and to see the Buddhist temple. Done and done!
We had finished most of our packing yesterday, so we had lunch and headed off to the airport with Aunty (she is so sweet! She came all the way to the airport to see us off.)
Neither my mom nor I really ever imagined that I would one day intern in Singapore and that she would join me. It's interesting to ponder how far we’ve come from where we began...
And thus begins our voyage home (yes, quite abrupt. Because this post is late. And brought to you by Hong Kong Aiport wifi).
Week of Lasts
Last week was a week of lasts for me (woah...weird wordplay...).
It was the last time I'll take the MRT to Chinese garden, part ways with my new best friend Iva, and walk the Jurong Canal to my nondescript hostel.
Last time I'll order "ice kopi, kaya toast, takeaway" and slap down exactly $3.10 on the counter at the Jurong East MRT.
Last time I'll board the private bus to the high-security island, scan my pass, and fingerprint for entry.
Last time I’ll tap in and out of the ICES building, see my labmates, and play pool badly with my colleagues and temporary supervisor.
Last time I’ll roam the shopping Mecca that is Orchard St., getting lost on that long, colorful stretch of wonderfully interpolated shops - luxury and bourgeois, Oriental and Western, international superchains and local boutiques.
But lists are boring. And I must qualify here: the future is uncertain, and I don't have a crystal ball. I can't call all of these absolute "lasts", because who knows? Life may bring me back here to do all these things again.
Flags along Jurong East Ave 1 on National Day
Buddhist Tooth Relic Temple. It felt a little sacrilegious taking a picture of the inner sanctum, so I thought a picture some of the more peripheral decorations would be okay. It is quite a beautiful place.
Another Singlish Quirk
That's the name of the "local dialect" - Singlish. One more thing about it: brevity is key. And by that, I mean important words only.
When you order something from a Starbucks in America, your interaction with the cashier is generally prefaced by, "Hi. How are you doing? I'd like to have a...[whatever overpriced Italian-sounding drink your heart desires]". Here, there is no such preamble to your order. Just walk up to the counter and say, "Ice kopi, kaya toast. Take away." (This is, as many of you know and most of you can guess, my daily order. The cashiers at Jurong East MRT Kopitiam even recognize me and prepare my order as I walk up to the counter. LIFE GOAL ACHIEVED!).
When you decide the plastic bag that comes with your order is extraneous, don't say, "Oh, no thank you. I don't need the bag; you can keep it." Instead, say, "No need."
I don't know if it's because my accent is strange and my speech too quick or because language is actually like that here, but there's Singlish sentence construction for you.
Bus Struggles and Jet Ski Doubles
I suck at catching buses. No, really. I suck with buses in general. Listen to the story of my weekend:
Friday morning: Jurong East MRT à Work On Friday morning, I barely made it to work on time - it was raining cats and dogs, and I was running like a cheetah wearing stilettos and carrying pumpkins (a.k.a. I was trying but not succeeding). The 8 AM bus was just pulling away from the curb as I scrambled up to it and tapped the window for the driver to stop. I was drenched and fairly sure all my superiors inside the bus were laughing at me, but hey, I made it.
Friday: Theoretically, Singapore (SG) à Johor Bahru (JB), JB à Penang I was responsible for booking a bus from Johor Bahru, the district in Malaysia closest to Singapore, to Penang in the north, and I failed twice with two different cards. I blame Visa's security restrictions (the thought of international ID theft prevention is nice, but it really worked against me here). My friend had to book it for me, and I'm very grateful that he did, otherwise none of us would have made it to our vacation destination.
Friday evening: Work à Jurong East MRT, Kranji à JB As if hanging in limbo for several hours, running between lab and computer room trying to make plans and purify proteins at the same time, wasn't stressful enough, I missed the normal 5 PM bus from work back to mainland (mainisland?) Singapore, so I had to wait for the 6:40 PM bus. I couldn't officially do any lab work (and unofficially, I had packed away all my stuff in the -80 and couldn't timely thaw out anything), but my favorite PhD student let me stick around lab and ask questions about his project.
Luckily, I had brought all my luggage (ONE BACKPACK FOR THE LONG WEEKEND. WHO'S A PACKING BOSS NOW?!) with me to work, so I grabbed 6:40 bus, some dinner, and the MRT to Kranji. I just made it to the 170, which then took us across the border. We couldn’t get JB to Penang, so the plan was JB to KL and then KL to Penang. JB-KL was a midnight bus, so the plan was to sleep there (thus saving on lodging costs) and take our next bus early the next morning. Our JB-KL bus was TWO. HOURS. LATE. I’m sure there are worse things, but waiting 2 hours for a bus when you want nothing more than to pass out on the ground was pretty irritating in that moment. A little good company makes everything better, so we killed time until our bus arrived.
Saturday morning: KLà Penang We arrived in KL around 6 AM, ate breakfast in front of a Hindu temple (and what a beautiful sound the temple bells are!), wandered around the city a little, then took our 9 AM KL-Penang bus. Unfortunately, the traffic was HORRIBLE, and instead of arriving in Penang mid-morning, we arrived at 4 PM.
That really killed our plans for the day, since every attraction was closed by the time we picked and settled into a hostel. We decided a walk around the city would be a good use of our time, so we walked around Little India towards the coast. We saw the outside of a blue mansion and a colonial fort (sadly, both were closed), then found a park to view the coastline. Georgetown is a port city, so there was no skyline except the one created by trading ships. Unique view. Then we made our way through Medan Lebuh Campell, or Cambell St. Mall. And let me just say - Malaysian street food is SO GOOD. We ate freshly cut guava and juicy watermelon off the back of a fruit truck; sweet corn and boiled peanuts from a street vendor; and Chinese herbal tea and almond/jelly wobbly from a tiny tea stall nestled into a side street. The last two weren't a huge hit for me, but overall, everything was delicious. We wandered towards a mall with Hritik Roshan's face on it, then back towards our hostel for the night. One of my friends was telling me, and I am inclined to agree, that Asian cities tend not to have a lot of grafitti or murals, but I did find this little interesting bit:
Sunday morning: Hostel à National Park The next day, we got up early and went via the 101 bus to a national park. We took an awesome (easy!) hiking trail to Monkey Beach. Of the hiking trail, I must say - I felt like I was in Disney's "A Jungle Book" the whole time. Lots of dense greenery and vines. My friends call me "Princess" because I'm delicate or high-maintenance or something to that effect, but I managed to hike and keep up, so score 1 for Princess!
When we reached Monkey Beach, we had lunch and frolicked in the warm Malaysian water. I can't say enough about the beaches in Southeast Asia. They are beautiful and by far the most pleasant I've ever been to; I would go so far as to say they're magical. This one didn't have the clearest water, but it was perfectly clean and the perfect temperature. There is nothing I love more than just floating in the water and soaking up the sun.
We also tried – drumroll please- jetskiing! Or "Skidoo", as my Canadian friend calls it. I wish I had a picture of us on our aquatic vehicles, but we didn't think to capture those epic 15 minutes photographically. I’d rank that as one of the best experiences of the weekend.
There was a lighthouse at the top of a hill that supposedly takes 45 minutes of hiking to reach. We only had 30 minutes until it closed, so we raced up the hill. My friend made it up in 10 minutes, and a few more of us joined him 8 minutes after that. The view was worth the workout (I couldn't photographically capture that either, but pictures are floating around somewhere...). We then hiked back to watch the sunset from a pier in the national park:
Sunday evening: National Park à Hostel We caught the bus back to our hostel (the bus actually overshot, and I caught this and led us back. Big moment for the Princess who once overshot a highway exit by 22 miles.), took the shortest showers of our lives, then caught a free bus to our ferry terminal. Then, for the first time in my life, I rode a ferry! We were awkwardly placed with cars though, which made me feel like cargo rather than a passenger…
Sunday night: Penang à KL Anyway, we caught our midnight Penang-KL bus. This was uneventful, as most bus rides should be. We arrived in KL at 4 AM, so we ordered various varieties of roti pratas at a 24-hour restaurant and played cards til sunrise. The Petronas Towers were calling our names, so we trekked across the city to it. Pretty easy, since you can see the towers from anywhere in the city. And finally, I can partially cross this off my list:
Unfortunately, since it was Hari Raya when we visited, the towers were closed, so no view from the top. Even if it hadn’t been a national holiday, tickets aren’t sold on Monday, so there was really no way we would’ve climbed to the top that day. Still, the towers are impressive and the shopping was good, so I walked away a happy camper.
Chinatown called out to us next, so we picked up some souvenirs there and made our way back to the KL-JB bus.
Monday afternoon: KL à JB, JB à Kranji This 3:30 KL-JB bus had a little more interesting ride in mind for us: it broke down shortly after our first snack break, so all the guys had to get out and push the bus. It spluttered to life again after that, so - good job, manly men! J We made it back to JB (and consequently, SG) later than intended but were still able to catch the MRT home.
Alright, so out of all the buses I took this weekend, I only missed one. Eight out of nine isn’t such a bad success rate.
Again, good company makes everything better, and I will definitely miss these people. I like to think we’ve become a tight crew over the last few weeks, so for those of you reading – hit me up when you’re in California, son!
P.S. This post brought to you by Neha missing the 5:30 PM bus again. So 8/10. Still good…
The "Local Dialect"
Singapore's official languages are English, Tamil, Malay, and Chinese. English being my primary language, I float around just fine here. Still, there are some phrases unique to the Singaporean variety of English that haven't entered the American lexicon [yet]:
1. La/Lah (interjection) - Used at the end of sentences for emphasis (I used to think it was analogous to the Tamil "da", used as a vague term of affection, but I stand corrected).
2. Can can (adjective) - When you ask if a task is possible, the response is either "can" or "can not." The more "can"'s you get in a reply, the more enthuiastic the person is to be doing whatever you asked (or the more possible a task is). The word "can" doesn't have to be in the original question at all.
3. Top up (verb)(- To refill to maximum capacity.
Ex: "The ethanol is running low. Can you top up?"
"Can, la."
4. Aircon (adjective) - Airconditioned (more commonly known in the States as "AC").
5. Alight (verb) - To dismount (eg. from a bus or the MRT). There is some serious debate among my American friends as to whether or not this is a real word, so let me put that debate to rest via dictionary.com: http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/alight?s=t
6. Gentle reminder (noun) - Something that no one issues in America. All our reminders are more aggressive.
7. Take away (adjective) - To go. Use when ordering food. Antonym: Having here.
Things that Nobody Says:
1. “Whatever floats your boat” - This is a distinctly American phrase. Expect weird looks and a few chuckles.
2. “Bless you” - I say this in response to sneezes; I get a stunned look, a pregnant/shocked pause, and a timid, “Thank you.”
Growing up in the US, my childhood and paradigms have always been influenced by the fact that I'm ethnically (and to a large extent, culturally) Indian - a little different from the norm, something that makes me unique, and, in some ways, exotic. Coming here, I've become acutely aware of my "Americanness". My accent, dress, views of happiness, attitude - my "swagger" - are all distinctly American. Not to say that is a good or bad thing, but I have learned what some large cultural differences are between Americans, Singaporeans, and others. It is quite eye-opening and makes me reassess my self-image/identity as an Indian-American [interning in Singapore, chilling with international kids].
Orchid Breeder
That's a career, right? I can make a living out of that, right? Well after experiencing the National Orchid Garden of Singapore in the Botanic Gardens, that's what I want to be. We didn't get to see the room that hosts thousands and thousands of 500 mL flasks full of agriculturally-manipulated orchid stalks, but I walked past it and it looked like bioengineering heaven. (Amma, you are definitely coming with me to see this!)
The fascination was tempered by the fact that my mom used to grow most of these (which also means major props to my mom for being on the same level as the world's most extensive orchid garden), but I was particularly taken with the horned variety:
They're like antelopes. Or narwhals. Or dragons with moustaches. I'm sure these things are not called horns, since they are more likely petals, but hey, glad my imagination hasn't died on the journey into adulthood (some will argue that I'm not there yet, and I will not disagree).
Anyway, a lot of orchids of this variety were displayed in the "Celebrity Garden", where hybrid orchids are created and named after various global dignitaries. That's Singapore for you - fostering international relations in the most weirdly creative ways possible.
And backtracking chronologically a little bit, some of my UC friends and I went hiking at the MacRitchie Resevoir on National Day. It was a good chance to see (and apparently freak out) the local wildlife:
Two good experiences just from walking around. Even something so mundane as walking becomes awesome in the scenery Singapore has created (at times, manufactured, but still). Imagine that.
Happy 47th Birthday, Singapore! Fireworks by the bay :)
Protein Purification, Like a Beast
The entirety of my last week was protein purification. The whole time, we've been transforming and growing cells. We harvested them, lysed them, and then finally got to the real goal - isolating heterologous proteins (that means the proteins we seek were originally from a different organism than the host that expressed them).
Let me break it down fo ya, homes:
Basically, the protein we seek is encoded by commercially-manufactured DNA. I got to see the software we use to construct this DNA before we order it; it's SO COOL! Literally, you just type in the bases you want - G/C/A/T - and construct the gene. If you already know what the code is, you can copy/paste it to another gene, link different codes together, and BOOM! You have a plasmid vector. You can toggle restriction sites, copy sites, antibiotic resistant, and everything! I WILL MAKE A BABY DINOSAUR SOMEDAY! (Jurassic Park reference. Childhood dream waiting to be fulfilled. Making progress!).
Our proteins have been engineered with a special tag of amino acids at the end (which I assume does not disrupt protein functionality). That tag allows the protein to bind to metal ions. What we do is take a special tube, fill it with metal ions, and run our cell lysate through it (which has all the proteins, not just the one we want). Only the protein of interest sticks to the metal ions, and the rest are washed out of the tube. Then we wash the proteins out of the tube and save those for later use and testing.
When my supervisor was explaining this to my co-intern and me, he had us write out the chemical structures of the compounds we were using. And I honestly have never been more grateful in my life for those two quarters of Ochem I took. THANK GOD. I actually got [most of] the answer, so I considered it a good day.
The process is very well-conceived in theory, but the implementation involved a LOT of pushing things through syringes. Carpal tunnel and thumb sores to the max. Okay, I exaggerate, but my thumbs were red by the time we were done with five days of this. At least we had the proteins we sought.
Unfortunately, we centrifuged one of the samples until too intense conditions, and one of the proteins lost its biological activity :( WE KILLED IT! (Or "killed", more accurately, since I don't think proteins themselves count as living.) That meant we had to start over: grow those same cells, take care of them like babies, harvest them, lyse them, and purify their proteins. I wasn't super upset about this, because doing the process once more from the beginning really helped me understand what I did the first time. No complaints about that here.
So this week, we grew 10 colonies of the desired cells and harvested them for lysing and purification on Friday. Not doing anything today because ... yesterday was a half-day, and today is a day off in honor of - National Day! Happy birthday, Singapore!
Finna go hiking and see the fireworks later today :)