Wardrobe & Styling: Risika PT2
As always, I’ll keep using original names if I’m talking specifically about the original iteration and in quotations and stuff, but I’ll be referring to everyone by their new names in all other situations.
So, uh, sorry for taking so long on this 😅 I didn't realize how many different outfit possibilities there would be!
While part 1 was an overview of her general fashion sense and style trajectory, this one will delve into Roksana's specific outfits. I'm going to kick things off with her ‘Meet’ outfit to set the tone and then skip back to go over the historical outfits before circling back around in part 3 (because I guess this is going to be a 3 parter now) to go over her modern-day outfits.
Also, the scenes with the asterisks are original scenes that I (potentially) want to add to my version.
Opening scene ‘meet’ outfit (NIGHT 2)
Black square-neck crop top that's got a fitted bodice and flowy sleeves that gather at the wrist
Wide leg high waisted black jeans
Chunky black leather platform combat boots with lots of buckles
No accessories except her silver garnet ring
Minimal makeup—just some eyeliner, brown eyeshadow, and dark red lips
She wears her hair loose and wavy
Since this is the first time we're seeing her, I wanted this to be a very typical outfit of hers, something she would just throw on and not think much about. Like in the OG, she's kind of meant to look like a ‘stereotypical’ vampire here, which I like because at the same time, she's telling us all the ways that vampires aren't actually the way that popular media portrays them. She even insists that she's only wearing all black because it suits her mood. I see this as representative of how she's constantly trying to convince herself that she's not really like a vampire even as she's behaving in ways that are very vampiric. At this point, she's denying her own lived experience in favor of an ideal.
I wanted her to wear all black with little to no accessories here because right now she's still a mystery to us, she's only giving us broad strokes, no real details for us to latch onto.
I also wanted there to be some interplay between fitted/structured and sheer/opaque to reference her internal contradictions (her desire for freedom vs her need for comfort) and the slight mismatch between what she tells us and what we're seeing.
I'm still not qualified to speak on working class women's fashion in early 18th century Mexico, but I think Remedios needs a ‘meet’ outfit as well so I'm just going to make my best guess and update once I get more information.
This scene doesn't exist in ITFOTN, so I'm referencing Chapter 19 of DSTF, in which Rachel goes with her dad to look for her mother's family members.
She's in a city she's never been to before and expecting to meet relatives whom she's never met before, so she's wearing her best clothes (but not so nice as to draw unwanted attention) along with her mother's rebozo.
Her skirt is a solid dark red orange, kind of a rust color, and her bodice is matching. She's wearing very practical shoes because she's traveling, but she made extra effort to clean them and keep them clean during the journey.
She’s wearing her hair in a single neat french braid, with maybe a bit of volume at the crown (which is how I imagine a more practical working class interpretation of the tall hairstyle that was popular for western women in the 1690s would look like), tied off with a blue ribbon (to match the rebozo) and with the tail draped over her shoulder (as opposed to hanging down her back).
I want her dressed in warm earthy and reddish colors here as a reference to her human-ness and to hint at her subconscious recognition of/connection to her fire/witch heritage. That said, I wanted the rebozo (that belonged to her mother) to be blue so that it would stand out from her other clothing items and also to symbolize a touch of the supernatural.
I also imagine that most of the clothes she owned were her mother's old clothes (and because of the ~20-year trend cycle, they wouldn't have even had to be altered all that much to fit the current fashion).
So this is actually going to be what she's wearing after her first feeding when Ather takes her through New Mayhem. I imagine Ather taking Roksana to her first feeding still in her night dress because she knows it has the potential to get messy.
Ather has her servants dress Roksana up in some of her old clothes. These clothes are much finer than anything Roksana’s worn up until then.
The dress Ather chooses for her is a mantua gown (which was fashionable in the 1690s going into the 1700s) made of black silk with some silver embroidered details. She also wears a pair of very impractical heeled shoes that match the gown perfectly. Even though it's a beautiful dress, it looks awkward on her because Ather is a little bit taller than her and not as curvy, so the fit is weird.
Ather is not so keen on lending out her jewels, though, so no jewelry for Roksana this time around.
The servants combed out her hair and put it up in a half updo with some face framing curls.
I chose this because it's so different from what she would've been wearing as a human. It's luxurious, fashionable, and more expensive than anything she ever could've afforded in her entire mortal lifetime. The color black symbolizes vampirism (kind of playing on her Meet outfit) and back in the day (around this time period, maybe a little earlier), it was the color of the Spanish royal court, so it also implies that she's now part of vampire royalty (as a member of one of the most powerful bloodlines). And the silver embroidery is to represent, well, Silver. The awkward fit, of course, shows that she's not at all comfortable with her new role. She's probably stumbling over her own feet because the shoes are so impractical and she hasn't gotten the hang of controlling her new vampire physicality yet (unlike her meet outfit, where she's also wearing impractical shoes but by now she can move in them just fine).
As for Ather's intentions, it's noted in the canon that she relies on the strength and reputation of her fledglings to protect herself, so of course, this is going to come through in this outfit that she's showing her newest fledgling off in. She'd want to present Roksana as an extension of herself, so she wants Roksana to be fashionable and dressed in a way that shows off her (Ather's) power and status but she's not actually fully invested (hence, no jewels), which reflects how she was as a blood mother.
So this is an entirely original scene that I wanted to add so we could see Roksana interacting more with the vampire world before she goes rogue. The setup is that Ather wants to throw a party to show off her new fledgling and get everyone’s mind off of how Malvada has just burned to the ground (but mostly, she just wants to have a party).
I'm setting this a few days to a week after Roksana was changed. By this point, the newness has worn off a bit and Ather's more interested in the party than she is in Roksana, so she just allows Roksana to choose whatever for herself from among her old dresses. Roksana chooses a dark red gown with gold embroidery. It has a long bodice, full skirt, an off the shoulder neckline, and long sleeves that puff out close to the wrist—a style that was popular in the ~1660s Spanish Baroque era. And she's wearing matching gold slippers. Ather also lets Roksana have a pair of rather simple gold earrings and a matching gold pendant necklace that she wouldn't mind losing.
She's wearing a little more makeup—rouge on her cheeks and lips, some kohl lining her eyes.
Her hair is worn loose, in her natural waves, maybe with some red ribbons on the sides of her head (which also seemed to be a popular Spanish Baroque style).
I chose these colors because obviously, the red is for blood, but I also wanted her to shimmer and glow in the candle light, alluding to her connection to the Tlahuilli (Light) line. The gold embroidery details also symbolizes how the opulence of the new world she's in is starting to infect her.
These clothes fit her better this time around (because Ather's servants had time to tailor them), which is supposed to represent how disturbingly well she seems to fit in with vampire society.
The style of the dress and her hair is a little outdated to show that even early on, Roksana still wants to hold onto the past/something more familiar (I'm not sure if the timeline works out, but maybe the dress was a similar style to the fancier dresses her mom left behind).
I wanted Roksana to be the one to dress herself here because I wanted to put her in a weird position where she's tempted by all the opulence around her and at this point, she's willingly trying it on rather than having it forced upon her. I wanted to see her deal with the guilt of not rejecting this stuff outright the way she imagines her brother would've. The intention is that in this scene she becomes disgusted with herself and how easily she fell into all this decadence, which is what causes her to run away.
So like I said above, in my version, Roksana runs away from Ather during her debut party (Ather's not all that invested, so she doesn't even realize the girl's gone until a few days later). She runs away still dressed in her party outfit, which is not only not very practical for life on the run, but she also doesn't like how it reminds her of how she seemed to enjoy all the vampire luxury she experienced, so she gets rid of it the first chance she can. Being from a working/lower class family though, she wasn't going to just dump it and let it go to waste.
I'm thinking she comes across a home where there's laundry hung out to dry and some livestock. By that time, Roksana's probably hungry, so she drinks from one of the large animals, steals some clothes from the line (without much care for what they were or how they fit), and then leaves the dress behind as ‘payment’, keeping the jewels on her just in case.
She probably keeps these stolen clothes for a while (since vampires probably don't sweat or secrete oils) and trades them whenever she comes across something more fitting.
I think out of habit, she probably wears women's clothes for a while, but then switches to men's clothes not too long after both for mobility and because she didn't want to be seen as a target for being a woman traveling in the wilderness alone. Her switch to men's clothes could also indicate that she doesn't intend to return to human society any time soon (I'm not sure about what the norms were for gendered clothing in that time and place specifically, but I'm thinking that it would at least attract more attention than she'd be comfortable with).
So I have two different ideas of how I want this scene to go and I would style her differently depending on which one I go with.
In the canon, when she comes back home to check on her family, she's wearing men’s clothes because getting around in skirts was annoying and her hair is a mess because she hasn't bothered to maintain it, which probably speaks to her distressed and hopeless state of mind at the time. I think this sort of unkemptness also signals that she didn't have any intention of interacting with or being seen by her family and she just wanted to torture herself by watching them move on without her. I think this is a really compelling angle and if I'm sticking with it, I'll keep her in men's clothes and messy hair. The clothes, she probably would've stolen from a clothesline (at this point, she's not even willing to feed regularly so I don't think she'd have it in her to steal from her meals) so they wouldn't be the type of thing she'd pick out based on style, but I do think she'd try to alter them to fit her better since the whole reason for wearing them instead of women's clothes was for mobility (and in my headcanon, she and her sister did some work mending clothes on the side to help support the family). In contrast to how messy her hair is, I think she'd actually take pretty good care of her clothes because she wouldn't want to have to go through the trouble of stealing new ones all the time.
The second idea is to change it so that she's in denial about her vampirism and she actually does return home with the intention of going back to her human life (which is kinda tragic in its own way). If I go with this one, I would have her wearing the same type of clothes that she used to wear when she was human, styling her hair the same way she used to style it, and I would even have her putting on some makeup so that her complexion isn't dull as death and she can mimic that lively human glow.
So in my version, I thought it would make more sense to have this interaction happen after the whole stepmother thing. idk, the order of those two scenes in the og text never really made sense to me, but that's a discussion for a different post.
I'm not sure why, but I kind of pictured her wearing a green dress here. Like she's camouflaged in the trees that she's hanging out on. If I do decide to go with putting her in menswear in the stepmother scene, I think having her wear a dress here might be a good way to show that in addition to begrudgingly accepting the fact that she needs to feed on people regularly in order to survive, she's also getting used to being a vampire and having vampire powers/vampire physicality that make it much easier for her to get around regardless of what she's wearing. I think it would also show that she's becoming more of a hunter (rather than a scavenger) because a reason for why she would wear women's clothes would be to blend in with humans so she can better hunt them (or maybe even, in contrast to one of her motives for initially switching to men’s clothing, she's using it to lure in men who would intend to harm a lone woman, which would fit in with the canon that at this point she's cool with eating people as long as they're bad people). And then it also raises the question of where she got this dress—did she steal it off of one of her victims? Let's make it a nice fancy dress (like this one (featured in Jan Abel Wassenbergh's Portrait of Louise Christina Trip) but green) because I like to think of her eating the rich!
As for her hair, I want it to be big! It wouldn't be unkempt like the last time we saw her, but it also wouldn't be necessarily styled or neatly contained in a french braid like it was when she was human.
She wears shoes whenever she has to go into town, but otherwise, she prefers to go barefoot.
It's like being away from human society has allowed her/forced her to connect more with nature and with the earth, which isn't exactly a bad thing for her.
So that's it for now! Hopefully the next post doesn't take as long!