Nina Sees the World

Travel blog. Where I've been, where I'm going. Follow me around the world. 21 years. 3 continents. 10 countries. 18 US states.

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Petit déjouner

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Sacre Coeur et Montmartre

Guess who’s back in Paris? This girl!!

Last year on my flight home from my month in France I realized that I had never gotten to Sacre Coeur, one of Paris’ most iconic landmarks and scenic overlooks!

This year, for graduation my parents gifted me with a week in my favorite city in the world. Naturally Sacre Coeur was my first stop. The walk (hike) to the top was long but worth it. I found a bench about halfway up in front of the fountain and rested with a baguette sandwich I had picked up on the way. I lunched and caught my breath before going up to the cathedral.

After snapping a couple pics I went inside (where they don’t allow photography) and explored for a little while. It definitely had a flow of tourists, so I felt rushed, but that didn’t stop me from lighting a candle in memory of my Nana who was catholic and I knew would have wanted me to.

I debated whether to go to the top or not. After standing on line for a few minutes I decided I would benefit more from strolling around the area for a bit. Montmartre is located in the 18e Arr. and overlooks basically all of Paris. The streets leading to Sacre Coeur are packed to the gills with souvenir shops, crêperies, and other tourist traps. Beyond the perimeter, however, I found what I was looking for. The apartment buildings that line the streets are stacked with window boxes and laundry airing in the wind, shutter windows opened to let the beautiful 73F (22C) air in. I watched some preteens walking home from school, gabbing and giggling as school kids do.

On my way back down the hill I took a different road and caught a quick glimpse of the Tour Eiffel. Perhaps I’ll go visit her tonight. My carte navigo is loaded, so pourquoi pas?

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Beach day. Mansion beach, RI

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South Light, Block Island

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La Vierge et L’Enfant: A Truth or Lie?

           Originally, I planned the theme of my photo essay to be the representation of mother and child in art, but when I was exploring various churches throughout France, it became apparent what direction I wanted to go in: The Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus. Being raised as a Christian but having a very complicated relationship with religion has caused me to question the Bible and God himself. I have always been fascinated with blind faith and trust, as it has always been difficult for me to believe in things I cannot see or have no proof of. Considering this, I tend to question different aspects of the Bible in some of my academic work, this photo essay being one of them.

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Musée de Cluny 

           I went on sight to various churches and museums to find the representation of the Virgin Mary and her child and was intrigued by what I found. To obtain a deeper understanding of their relationship and what is being signified, it is necessary to grasp what Mary symbolizes and what Jesus symbolizes separately.

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Saint Gervais and Saint Protais Church 

Vierge et L’Enfant found in the Louvre 

La Vierge et L’Enfant by Barnaba Da Modena found in the Louvre

           God allegedly chose a poor, virgin girl named Mary to carry his son, Jesus. Her life after becoming pregnant was full of struggle and suffering but came with honor as well. With this virginal conception, she became God’s unrelenting servant, eventually earning herself the title of Saint. This is interesting, though, because while Mary might be one of the most famous characters in the Bible, she is still not given much of a voice, perhaps because she is female and mainly serves as a vessel for God’s child to be born through. Mary’s sole purpose in the Bible is to carry God’s Son via miracle. Through a modern feminist lens, Mary’s life is one that requires probing. If God actually did send the angel Gabriel to speak to Mary, was it truly Mary’s love and faith in God that furthered her servitude, or was it because of expected gender roles? Was she forced to carry this miracle child? Was she given the option to refuse? Was she really a virgin, or was it all a cover? Did she get pregnant and needed to save her maidenhead by lying? Or worse, was the Virgin Mary raped? Unable to speak up about what actually happened to her because of ancient customs? Claiming to be the chosen mother, but was she perhaps chosen for something else?

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Musée de Cluny 

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis Church 

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in the Louvre 

            Baby Jesus has been portrayed in art for several centuries for obvious reasons. The Son of God has long been a sought-after figure to recreate through art because of his significance in religion. Baby Jesus represents the forgiveness of sins, and often in portraits and sculptures, he is intended to look older and wiser than a typical baby. This is in part to show that his existence is divine rather than him being depicted as just another baby. The future of mankind depended on this child to save them from their sins, so the child emulating the face of an old man is an accurate representation in this regard. This baby carries the weight of the world on his tiny shoulders, forcing him to grow up too soon.

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Église Saint-Eustache 

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in the Louvre

A close up of La Vierge et L’Enfant from Jacob Jordaens’ L’Adoration des bergers found in the Louvre 

             In each of these works of art, Mother Mary and Baby Jesus are each designed with European features rather than their true Israeli selves. This is a common practice called “whitewashing” where white Westerners tend to change the appearance or characteristics of an entity to better match themselves and their backgrounds. The artists who created the pair’s whitewashed look are taking away part of their identity, creating a feeling of shame for those who happen to identify with the living Israelis. They are arguably being shown that their culture and race is not adequate for Westerners because of artists’ intentions of depicting a white mother and child with European features to appeal to their own audience. This creates a sense of “us” to those who look similar to the represented, but in turn, must create a “them” for those who do not.

La Vierge et L’Enfant found in Saint Gervais and Saint Protais Church

            In each of these depictions of the Virgin Mary and Baby Jesus, Mary is always holding Jesus in a loving way, but it almost feels distant. Could this be because she lied about this baby’s identity and she cannot swallow her guilt? Was this child the product of rape or premarital sex in a time where one was accepted but the other was punishable by death of the woman? Is the Virgin Mary who carried the child of God all a hoax? Is there even a way to find out? 

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In Paris, France, art culture is alive and well. Home to some of the most renowned museums in the world, such as the Musée du Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, and Centre Pompidou, it seems as though the largest celebrities are the collections of art throughout the city. Visitors from all over the world flock each day to the Louvre to view classics like the Mona Lisa, Victory Angel, and Venus de Milo. In 2016 alone, the Musée du Louvre saw approximately 7.3 million people. (Source) Each person, upon entry, is immediately bombarded with reminders of the most popular works in the entire 38,000+ piece museum. Placards usher visitors through the corridors, promising to guide them to La Jaconde, and in turn leading them to the visitor dumping ground, piling them onto the sweaty heap of selfie-stick-wielding tourists, bloodthirsty for a peek at Mona Lisa herself.

Have you ever asked yourself why the Mona Lisa is so famous? It isn’t the epitome of fine art by a long shot. Like a Kardashian, La Jaconde is most likely famous because of scandal. In 1911, the painting was stolen from the museum after hours. The theft made international news as the entire world tuned in to find out what happened to the da Vinci original. After it was found, replaced, and vandalized a few times, it got new digs behind bulletproof glass and a partition, and thus the crowd formed. Suddenly, visitors were turning their backs on the other priceless works in the museum to make a bee-line for the swarm around the drama-magnet painting.

The public continues to drink in what the Louvre PR staff pumps out throughout the museum, collecting in pools around the Victory Angel and Venus de Milo. When they are finally through, they ring out their consumerist drool in the gift shop, emptying their wallets over anything and everything with the Mona Lisa on it. Shelves are coated in the iconic smile and captivating eyes adjacent to staggering Euro signs. Pop art models of Venus de Milo are arranged artfully at the entrance, hypnotizing passersby to drop their cash at the feet of the museum staff without even checking the price tag. Why? Because I’ve seen the real thing, and the countless pictures I took from every possible angle is not enough to commemorate that time I saw the most famous pieces of art ever.

The crowd around the Mona Lisa on a standard Monday afternoon. Note how few people are actually looking at the painting itself instead of through their camera.

Looking back at the sea of Mona Lisa visitors which nearly fills the small gallery room. The other works in the room are commonly neglected by the thousands of people who cycle through every day.

A smaller, but still congested crowd around Venus de Milo. This piece, like La Jaconde, is placed in the middle of the room, perhaps for ease of access.

With the Victory Angel at the top of the stairs, mobs pose a problem for the traffic flow of the museum. Some people will retreat to the balcony opposite the sculpture, creating their own sky box of viewers.

A new 21st century dimension to this phenomenon is the selfie culture. It is no longer enough to simply take a picture of the art. The amount of people with their backs to the piece in order to get in a picture with it seems counterproductive. Tweeting that you saw the Victory Angel is inaccurate, unless you have eyes in the back of your head.

Visitors commonly have to squeeze and elbow through the ravenous crowd outside the Mona Lisa at the Louvre. If you didn’t have claustrophobia before...

A fraction of the amount of visitors to the Louvre every day. Tour groups create waves in traffic throughout the museum, and have a tendency to linger at our favorite 3 pieces.

Gift shop display of Venus de Milo figurines in various colors. It’s almost refreshing to see something that isn’t the Mona Lisa, but these colorful little ladies are like chum for gift shop customers. At the end of the day, you’re going home with Lisa.

One of the many Mona Lisa displays in the Louvre gift shop. There’s a famous controversy about what her smile means. I cracked the code. It says, “BUY ME”.

The consumerism of the Mona Lisa extends outside the museum as a motif in advertisement. This ad is in a Paris metro station, but La Jaconde can even be found on billboards off I-84 in the United States.

Worldwide, in France, the US and beyond, the popularity of art is defined not by its quality, but rather by its value as a product to sell to an ususpecting, unquestioning, consumerist public.

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Art Nouveau Architecture

This week, I visited 2 buildings in the Art Nouveau style. This style was popular in the late 1800s to early 1900s. It can be identified by the curving lines, ornate decoration, natural forms, and asymmetrical facades. In France, the style was a protest against the strict requirements for building facades under Haussmann.

The first building I visited was the Lavirotte building in the 7th Arr. I was most impressed by the decorative aspects of this building, namely the statues and busts that adorned the facade. The building was surrounded by “normal” buildings, making it that much more notable.

Next, I hopped over to the 16th Arr to visit Castel Beranger. After seeing the first building, I must admit to being slightly underwhelmed by this one. I did enjoy the design of the entrance gate. The curving, fluid forms were whimsical and intriguing in contrast with the stone siding. The Art Nouveau-ness was subtle, but definitely present in the door, pillars, and railings.

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Markets

In Paris, grocery shopping is an event. Whether it is an open air market, a small Franprix, or a hugely extravagant supermarket, it is a much different experience than the United States.

Yesterday, my friends and I tried two different types of markets. We started at the Marché Beauveau-Marché d’Aligre, one of the most famous semi-permanent markets in Paris. The building was an industrial pavilion that stretched nearly the length of the block. We entered to an eerily vacant market, surrounded by fish, meats, fruits, veggies, and cheese. It was not at all what I was expecting. I was anticipating the hustle and bustle of people all round, barking at cheese vendors and carefully selecting grapefruit. Instead, the aisles were quiet, and the shopkeepers sat patiently watching my friends and me awkwardly gaze over the baskets of tomatoes and avoid eye contact with the dead fish. Strangely, it left me with a similar feeling to being in a private art gallery; it wasn’t strictly forbidden to speak, but the atmosphere was such that silence felt most appropriate. While it wasn’t what I expected, I was intrigued by the selection and watching out fellow shopper order meat.

Afterwards, we headed over to Grande épicerie du Bon Marché, possibly the most extravagant supermarkets I have ever seen. Aisle after aisle is stocked with the most decadent produce, desserts, jams, condiments, pastas, and more. The quality of the food was palpable simply by looking at it. As the floors ascended, there was furniture, kitchen appliances, dishes, and more inedible but relevant products. I was overwhelmed and impressed, but indulged myself in a macaron from the bakery, which was just as delicious as it looked. I was without a doubt more dazzled by this market than the other.

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Musee d’Orsay

In the year 1840, the Palais d’Orsay was complete, a new meeting place for the council of state. By 1871 the Paris Commune took power. They emptied the Palais, moving all books, archives, and art to Versailles. That year, on May 23rd, the vacant d’Orsay was vandalized and burned by soldier arsonists in protest of Napoleon III. 

The site was purchased by Compagnie Paris-Orleans. They demolished the burned buildings and built a train station and hotel, the building which still stands today. The building is of a Beaux-Arts style, as evidenced by the flat roof, arched windows and doorways, pilasters, and symmetry. The train station was opened for the 1900 World Expo in Paris. 

In 1939, new trains circulated through Paris which were too long for the platforms in d’Orsay. It was commissioned to become a museum in 1974, and was completed in 1986. Over 2000 works of art were installed over the course of 6 months from the Galerie Nationale du Jeu de Paume.

Today, Musee d’Orsay houses work from the 19th and 20th century. It boasts the largest collection of impressionist and post-impressionist art in the world, showcasing work by Monet, Degas, Manet, Van Gogh, and more.

This week, we visited the Musee d’Orsay. It was a unique museum and was definitely lots of fun. I inspired a scavenger hunt to find 5 specific paintings, which urged everyone to explore the entire building and visit every exhibit. It was definitely a one-of-a-kind museum and experience!

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Giverny

If there’s one thing I have learned through taking art history, it is that you can never rule out an artistic movement. As a young artist, I would always say that I did not like impressionism. I thought it was disorganized and rushed, unappealing to the viewer, and I could not understand why people liked it so much. Upon studying it, I began to understand it a little bit better. Impressionism was a groundbreaking movement in art. There was nothing like it when it came to be, and it was one of the most controversial movements in art history. The movement focuses on light, color, and the fleeting moments of everyday life.

This week, I got the opportunity to visit Giverny, the hometown of Claude Monet. Prior to my visit, I was not a fan of Monet’s work. Being the art snob that I know I am, I thought to like Monet was too “mainstream”. The waterlilies didn’t impress me, and his haystacks could put me to sleep.

My, how things have changed

Walking through the home and gardens of Claude Monet was surreal, and nearly moved me to tears. Not only was his house my dream house, I immediately understood why he was so inspired by this property. The pond and gardens feel like a fairytale, and weaving through the paths and bridges felt like instant therapy, enough so to distract me from the throngs of tourists pushing me along.

In my mind, it was just me, Monet, and the lilies. The colors began to decompose and separate like whole milk, and I could see the water like Monet had, bright and whimsical, strung together by confident brushstrokes. I was in awe. I finally got impressionism.

Monet’s home is covered with art. His studio is filled floor to ceiling with original pieces in various states of finish and refinement. The painting above was my favorite, and I bought a print of it on the way out.

The interior of the home is beautiful, with bright yellows, blues, and greens. The natural streamed in through lace curtains, casting perfectly abstract sunbeams on the floor and furniture. I danced around the home, dreaming about what life must have been within these walls, constantly surrounded by inspiration.

I’ve said it before, but I think I really mean it this time: this was the highlight of my trip so far. It was absolutely surreal, and I left with a much higher appreciation for impressionism and art as a whole. I hope to someday achieve the level of inspiration that Monet had access to literally in his own backyard. I feel so fortunate to have seen it myself.

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Number 9

Cheerio! Had to snap the classic London pic

This weekend I made it to my 9th country!! I took a day trip to London, England and I was absolutely blown away. It was gorgeous and I can’t wait to go back for a longer period of time! 

Big Ben

I can’t believe I have been to 9 countries so far. It seems like just yesterday that I was afraid to fly. Now I’m afraid to not fly. Later this week I’m hitting #10 on a weekend getaway to Amsterdam. 10 countries before the age of 21 isn’t too shabby, huh?

My friend Alex and I candidly posing outside Westminster Abbey.

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Palais Garnier

Today we visited Palais Garnier, also known as the Paris Opera. The opera house was built in the 1800s by architect Charles Garnier. The building is absolutely breathtaking, with a mix of baroque and classical styles. The interior is, in my opinion, even more beautiful than Versailles. We got the unique opportunity to take an after-hours tour, and got to see the grand staircase, grand foyer, auditorium, and even some sections which were never completed. This site was definitely a highlight of my trip so far.

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Versailles

This week I went to Versailles! I was unsure of what to expect, as I had heard mixed reviews. Many of my friends have deemed Versailles as an overrated, overcrowded tourist trap. I was prepared to feel the same way, but let my mind open, especially to the history throughout the halls.

Versailles was built as the royal palace that we all know in the 17th century by Louis XIV. The chateau was home to the king himself, as well as his family and his entire cabinet. Each day, the rooms would bustle with activity. Residents and visitors alike watched the king’s every move, and were painfully aware that they too were being watched. Outside the chateau stretches the expansive gardens and grounds designed by Andre le Notre. The gardens were and continue to be one of the most magnificent examples of jardin a la francaise in Paris. Each fountain was personally tested by the king himself upon installation.

Around the time of the French Revolution, the king moved out, and the chateau and gardens of Versailles began to atrophy. The war took its toll, and what wasn’t in disrepair was damaged by vandals and battle. Restoration projects have been most successful, with only a select few features of the grounds still damaged. 

With this knowledge, my visit to Versailles was much more meaningful. Through the steadily controlled wave of visitors, I coasted like a member of the king’s royal cabinet, looking for each subtle clue of history, such as the wear on the wood floors, or the cracks in the faded ceilings. The famous Hall of Mirrors was absolutely breathtaking, and as predictable as it may be, it was my favorite part of the interior. Upon our exit, we got lunch as a group, and then a few of us rented a boat to row along the Grand Canal, an experience which made us feel like nobles and reminded me of Morisot’s Summer’s Day.

After our row down the canal, we continued to wander the grounds and visit the Jardin du Roi, where we sat for a while and reflected on the day. My visit to Versailles was surreal and meaningful, and one I won’t soon forget.

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Let's be honest, I came to Paris for the food. I made it my goal to try everything I could, from croque monsieurs to macarons and I have loved every bite. The most surprising food for me was escargot. I have never liked seafood and was nervous for my first snail. My advice? Try the snails. You will not regret it. There is nothing better than that warm, buttery morsel of flavor contained inside an unassuming shell. As far as desserts go, Paris could very well be the pastry capital of the world. I thought I knew what a croissant was. One bite into the lightest, flakiest midday snack I have ever had and I was immediately a croissant snob. I don't know how they do it, but man, do they do it well. Paris has not disappointed me yet, and I don't suspect that it will. Even a simple baguette with brie overlooking the Eiffel Tower with friends far surpasses any chain restaurant or turnpike diner back home.

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Vaux le Vicomte

Yesterday we went to Vaux le Vicomte, a château outside of Paris. It was constructed in the 1600s for Nicolas Fouquet. The lavish interior and deceptively expansive jardins were breathtaking, and a lovely way to spend a hot afternoon. We explored the building and grounds, viewing the property from above, as well as trekking out to the famous Hercules sculpture about a mile into the jardins.

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Went on a walk and found l'Arc de Triomphe

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Last night was surreal. Definitely my "aha" moment, and without a doubt the night I fell in love with the city of Paris.