NJG in Spain

Natalie Gray // Seattle, WA // University of Washington Wild Places and Forest Lands in León, Spain // Summer 2015

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Sept. 18: Well, That Was Quick

Current location: 11582 Meters above Kelowna, BC

Vancouver time: 7:20 PM on the day that never ends.

I wrote my last note, the franco-canadian couple next to me moved to an emptier part of the plane, and I transformed seats 39 ABC into a napping space using my renfe train blanket. I promptly fell asleep (after not attempting to the 8-hour flight before). 

Now I only have half an hour to go out of an originally four-hour-long flight! HOORAY!

(Seats 39 ABC are now a party space!)

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Sept. 18: HOME STRETCH

Current location: Gate D41, Toronto Airport, boarding the LAST PLANE OF THE TRIP

Spaniard time: 23:49 (11:49 PM) Toronto time: 5:49 PM Seattle time: 2:49 PM

Run! Run! Run! We just caught the final boarding call for our plane. Whew!

Toronto is strange: they made us pick up our luggage from baggage claim for the previous plane, then re-check it for our current plane. Not normal for a connecting flight, but if that's what it takes to get home, so be it!

The girls and I joked that when people ask in the future, "What was the hardest part of your trip?" We can answer, "Returning home." But not because we weren't comfortable with leaving: it's because, every time we tried, we couldn't get to our gates very easily!

So, as a result, it's been an exhausting day. I'm so ready to get to Vancouver, be greeted by my Ben, and spend the weekend adventuring with him in the city and mountains there! Just four hours to go!

Love, Natalie

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Sept. 18: In Conclusion

Embarcando: Spanish for "Embarking."

I'm not sure if this phrase better suits the beginning or the end of this trip! I chose this title for my blog because of it's obvious tie to travel, and with the hopes it would develop other interesting connotations– which I'm glad to say it did.

For as much as this blog's goal is to capture my first time traveling abroad, it marks, too, a new stage of my life as a "global citizen." It has affirmed my hope that international travel– with the right amount of patience and attitude– can be a comfortable yet thrilling experience, something I will want to do again and again in my life.

In its gerund form (with "ing"), the title Embarcando expresses a dynamic account of life on the cusp of something new.

And I hope this blog has been just that.  

Love, Natalie

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Sept. 18: La Regresa Continuó

Current location: On plane, 2102 miles East of Toronto, 5:47 PM

Let me update my initial estimated guess: if all continues as planned, we will be taking six modes of transportation today in order to get home (List: Car/Train/Subway/Bus/By Foot/Airplane).

It ended up taking us a little longer than we anticipated to get to our gate at the airport in Madrid, for we kept getting pointed in the wrong directions. Happy we had five traveling brains to figure it out. We made it with plenty of time to spare.

We're about three hours in to our 7.5 hour flight, heading due West. I've tried the media thing on the back of the seat in front of me, and while it distracts me from my airplane headache, its content is a little too thematic to comfort me  all that well. Goes to show why I don't usually use it that much.

I'm sitting beside a young woman from the Toronto area and an elder gent from Michigan. They are both returning from a week long stay in Spain; she with her family on vacation, him to pay thanks to a Pueblo that saved his life 40+ years ago when his battle-plane crashed during wartime. Intense. The two enjoyed hearing my stories, too.

What a novelty hearing English is again. Especially after EVERY LECTURE in Spanish and a "no-English-in-my-house" policy with my host mom, Cristina. You'd probably be surprised to hear that I need to practice my English again. My time here has adapted how I structure my English sentences, sometimes.

A lot of the daily Spanish words are currently stuck in my vocabulary, so you'll have to excuse it when they slip from me. But, so that you may understand me when they do, I'll compile a list.

Some of my most frequently used words and phrases are:

Vale ("bah-le"), literally "It has value," used as an affirmative like "Good!"

Está bien, literally "It's well," used like "No problem!"

Perdón, literally "Pardon."

Disculpáme, literally "Excuse me."

Lo siento, literally "I feel it," used like "I'm sorry."

(Yo) Lo tengo/puedo/quiero, literally "I have/can do/want it."

It's strange to change something I thought so inherent to myself, like my English, even a little! I think the biggest surprise insight I've gained during my time away from home is the significance of one's language in culture, communication, and identity. I now appreciate the plight of the "foreign student" in a way I couldn't before, well-summed-up by a quote Dana and I appreciate: "A foreign accent is a sign of bravery." 

Which reminds me of an anecdote.

On our first day of class, we recieved small notebooks from the University of León, with a saying in Spanish across the cover. "If you speak languages, the world is not too big." As an intensely Anglo-centric speaker all of my life, I was hesitant to adopt the phrase at first, but the concept proved itself relevant as I let myself perform a culture I wouldn't have called my own on a normal day. I have found an identity in being flexible, which suits me well.

So maybe so, notebook, maybe so. And if that is the case, I want to learn more!

(Care to teach me some Japanese, Geoby?)

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Sept. 18: La Regresa

Current location: Renfe train to Madrid, 8:07 AM

Despite being sick yesterday, I ended up having an awesome day. Tea with Irene was fun: I introduced to her the concept of school clubs, we talked about our hopes for the year, and relaxed in our black tea with milk and sugar- all beneath the glow of the León Catedral. It was a gorgeous evening. We walked home together, and departed before the San Marcos Catedral with big hugs and an "hasta luego."

In fact, "hasta luego"- meaning "until later"- is the primary send-off in Spain, and much more so in León. Makes me feel as if it's not the last time I'll be back... Apart from the many invitations I've received to come back and visit in the future, hehe!

Spain has very much felt like a home away from home. Clearly not on a superficial level, for it was all brand new, but if I can make a new place feel like home in this month alone, it leads me to believe I can make anywhere in the world feel like home. That's promising.

I returned to Condesa de Sagasta 42 right on time for dinner. I took off my boots, scarf, and coat, and walked into the kitchen only to be told that I had to turn around and put my boots on again: "We're all going to eat out for your last night!"  Hooray! Finally!

So where do you go for a special night out in León? First, tapas, of course. Entreé? An Italian restaurant, owned by your host mom's cousin. Sounds legit.

Kary and I split a large vegetable calzone, and we both remarked at the familiar flavors that reminded us of our parent's home-made cooking: her mom's empañadas, my dad's pizzas. We marveled at Kary's and my abilities to down the strong flavors that made our host mom Cristina's throat burn. Perhaps the Spanish palette is more gentle than the North American. We booked it home to prepare for the next morning's early departure. Kary was kind enough to get up early to give me a hug. "Be safe," she said, "And let me know when you get home. I'll miss you." I had bought her a scarf in Barcelona. She gave me a hat to remember her by.

It's of no use to ask me if I have "a favorite place in Spain." Every city has its own flavor, its own character, its own landscape, its own demands, its own memories of mine, its own people.

And Spain is beautiful, yes, as many say. But it is beautiful in a way I didn't expect it to be. It's easy to be entranced by the cultural "flamboyance" most attach to the name, but there's something about seeing the landscape, hearing the endearingly aggressive language of the folk, walking in places established with the pride of historical craft, that makes the experience different. It makes it real.

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Sept. 17th: Last Day!

Hi, everyone! I'm feeling a little sick today. Headache and occasional nausea. Could be weird food, could be wariness of a long travel day ahead, could be recuperation from two train overnighters. Feels like a bit of all three. Just finished a big lunch with Cristina. I'm going to go grab some tea with Irene, finish packing, do dinner, and call it a night. Love, Nat

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Sept. 17th: WE DID IT!

Rachel, Yoselyn, and I just completed a "day-trip" to Barcelona (including two 8-hour train rides) within 30 hours! Woo! And it's lovely! The best way to describe the way Barcelona feels is "if you took Seattle, dunked it in California, flattened it, and broadened the streets and sidewalks." Or at least that's what we determined in our stupor- after sleeping on trains and walking over 11 miles. It was great fun. A good way to squish three days into one. Now I get a day to pack and I'm traveling home tomorrow! I'm going to go pass out!!! See you! -Natalie

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September 11th, 2015: Presentation Day and Final Day of the Program.

Excerpts from our EU Presentation, designed by yours truly. Went first and knocked their socks off. Profesora Anabelen couldn’t stay in her seat! Yosleyn and I treated ourselves to our favorite dulce-de-leche coffee after all was said and done. We made our Professors and ourselves very happy that day.

Cheers!

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Sept. 15: Prep for Pres

Thursday, September 10th, was a day entirely filled with brainstorming, Powerpoint making, and group work in León. Our presentations were scheduled to be the next day, after all!

Yoselyn, Silvia, and I were fortunate to have already started a working draft of our EU Mandates Presentation in Posada. And a good thing too, because it was probably the most complex and all-encompassing prompt that was given. 

We were solid, and we knew it. I took home the draft and tailored it late into the night with my own photos and graphic design prowess. I am getting cocky talking about it, but I don’t care: it felt awesome.

I’m running short on time before I’m out and about again. So I’ll post my presentation excerpt, celebrate that we’re all caught up (thanks for your patience), and head out for dinner and my train to Barcelona. Until next time. 

–Natalie

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“Yearbook” Entries

I picked up my Valdeón tourist guide and a pen from by pack, and gestured, “Te toca a ti. Pásalo cuando quieras.” It began to travel between hands along the table, scrawling in between. Here’s what I read when it returned (in English, for my audience).

“Natalie– Don’t lose your smile and the desire to travel. We’ll wait for you here, until you return.” –Irene de Lamo Velado

“For being who you are, and in hopes you will not change. We’ll miss you, Natalie!” –Lidia Garcia Martin

“Sorry for not letting you sleep. God willing you’ll return and we can pass the time well, like this time.” –Antonio García Dominguez

“Always greeting everyone with a smile. I hope that you’ll return to find us. MISS YOU!!” –Carla Ares García

“Hope this book will remind you that paradise does exist… All the best!” –Pablo Caldevilla Dominguez

“Thanks for being so cuddly. You’re so cute! See you Natalie. XXX” –Irene Pacho Zunzunegui

“It makes me happy to know you! I hope to coincidentally reunite with you, either in Spain or the USA. Kisses.” –Paula Rodrigues Moldes

“I have enjoyed traveling with you and hopefully we have an ESRM class together before we graduate.” –Dana Chapman

“I have really been enjoying traveling with you! I can’t wait to have more adventures together.” –Rachel Yonemura

“Natalie– You are so cool man! Super groovy! I feel very honored to have had the opportunity to know you AND to get to work with you on the Spain project with you. We need to go on hikes and camping together when we get back to the States. <3″ –Yoselyn Leos

“HAGS! I had lots of fun this trip. Keep in touch! See you around UW! You’re awesome :)” –Alan Guo

“Natalie, I really enjoyed our talks and getting to know you better over this trip! I’m happy we will have a class together next quarter so we will keep in touch!” –Alejandra “Allie” Andrade

“Dear Natalie, thank you so much for your energy, for your enthusiasm, and for that great smile that kept us going and thinking we were on the right track!” –Anabelén “Ana” Casares 

“What a delight this time has been. Thanks so much for all you have done to make it so.” –Greg Hicks

I didn’t expect it to get passed around the entire table, but I’m glad that it did. I love yearbook signings.

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Sept. 15: Group Dynamics

Current location: Condesa de Sagasta 42, Manuel’s room (ie. Marathon Updates.)

The key Spanish personality trait is nothing less than “intense.” And in the case of our seven Spaniard friends, this was very true. They spoke intensely, socialized intensely, partied intensely, and expressed their love intensely. Every morning from Irene came hugs and kisses and “BUENOS DIAS, GUAPAAA”– and every evening a living room full of friends, most with beers and some with smokes in hand, cheering “HASTA MAÑANA” above the playlist of the night.

It was beyond me and my North American friends how our new friends were able to socialize until a couple hours past midnight every night and not be totally exhausted for the next morning’s class. (We were already falling over by the time our lengthy, late dinners were completed, y’know.) Not only that, but when our Spaniards actually did go out, they were not home until a few hours after midnight, and were up and at it the next day.

Perhaps that’s why coffee is so popular here. Who knows? Maybe Spaniards’ energy levels are magical. Or maybe it’s a certain degree of “Carpe Diem.”

Nonetheless, “intense” is a good way to describe it.

We enjoyed a weird evening of live-music dancing on Sunday. And another evening, we got a kick out of a night of cider and the Spanish translation of “Cards Against Humanity” (Hey, Contra-Gang). 

There wasn’t much in terms of drama, which I was grateful for– but let’s just say that my conflict management skills and Spanish did come in handy when it was time to hash out key communication issues. I’ll keep it vague for posterity’s sake.

The final night in Posada was possibly the latest dinner we’d had, self-organized and ending past midnight. A tired group of Americans hustled back in the dark cold, only turning our lights off briefly to stargaze. By the time we got back, I realized I didn’t have the key to the upstairs apartment, where I had been staying, so I crashed on the lower apartment’s couch for a few hours. 

I was awoken by some loud bards traveling up the stairs, and knew it was my time to head to my own bed, if I wanted to. So I did. But I was kept awake by said bards for a couple hours after that, still. Not so fun.

However, in my bard-induced stupor the next day, September 9th, we exchanged stories and notes in a yearbook-like form, most using the nice scenic books we received from the Mayor at our last Posada class that morning. After reading my heartfelt note, Irene cried, apologized for disturbing my sleep, and gave me big hugs.

All was well. We loaded onto the bus, took what felt like a swifter route back to León, and waved goodbye to the mountains as they melted back onto the horizon. We were a bit tired, a bit solemn, but enjoyed some music and dancing on the way. With large bags in tow, a group of us celebrated our return with smoothies in an overcast Plaza Mayor, and mentally prepared ourselves for what would come next: Presentations.

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Sept. 15: Autumn

Today’s a rainy day in León. It’s becoming Fall more and more this week. Time to use the day to pack for the marathon trip to Barcelona and prep for a group dinner with everyone tonight. Feels like the experience in Spain is coming to a close soon. 

Only half a week to get caught up on with regards to Posada and the end of the program. Let’s get to it before we’re on the run again.

Best, Nat

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Sept. 15: La Mesa Redonda

Current location: Condesa de Sagasta 42, Manuel’s room

Week 2 began September 7th with what we ultimately came to Posada for: the “Mesa Redonda” session– otherwise known as the “Round Table”– in which we’d get the chance to ask questions and have conversations with local leadership and stakeholders about what would determine the park’s future. We crafted questions to determine their roles in the amalgam, the reality of their bureaucracy, their personal definitions of conservation and preservation,  their hopes for the future, and what kind of role we, as students, played in the process.

The cast of characters impressively chose their seating to represent their spectrum of beliefs, ranging from “Preserve our culture at all costs!” to “Preserve our ecosystem at all costs!” They were lined up as follows:

Twin Ranchers (“Ganaderos”) Amadeo and Jose Maria – “If it were up to us, only two wolves would be left on this planet. One would be placed in France, the other in Canada. Both male.”

Tomas Perez, leader of the neighborhood rights group Juntas Vecinales – “There are more laws to protect the environment here than there are to protect the people. Over 25 people in Posada are employed by the park. How many doctors work here? Only one. And he’s only here part of the week.”

Tomas Alonso, Mayor of Posada and Famous Cheesemaker – “The economic plan for our park (P.R.U.G.) was annulled because no real conversation has been made with the locals from the national level… We aren’t really sure what to do next.”

“Ex-Lawyer” and Deputy Mayor José – “I think everyone here vies for conservation, but the relationships here are restricted, and there isn’t space for dialogue. The problem we face is an organizational problem. The national directives don’t respond to the reality of the place.”

Julio, Young Forestry Engineer & Ecologist – “The environmental education for local inhabitants is nonexistent. We need to bridge our projects and the public with symposiums: something that brings the science closer to home.”

Isidoro, Extreme Mountaineer – “Communication just hasn’t been that good. It is important that we preserve this region’s geology, ecology… Your kinds of courses are important for Posada. You all give special energy to the topic of management, and enable its discussion.”

Yoselyn and I had spent a free afternoon the past week greeting and interviewing locals from Posada, including Tomas Perez, and another man who had left Posada for Arizona in his youth, affectionately nicknamed “The Texan.” Together with the round table discussion, we were able to piece together an interesting narrative and series of perspectives and solutions for the Valle de Valdeón– to be demonstrated to you in excerpts of our presentation. I was excited to have had such an experience, where all the students contributed a question, and we delved into the heart of the issues.

We are fortunate, too, to have recordings of all our interviews for our future reference, too. Thanks, Yoselyn!

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September 4th, 2015: Lunch in Caín, Post-Ruta del Cares. 

Cain deserves its own post. It’s my favorite. This is where Rachel, Silvia, Paula, and I stopped for a brief lunch after our hike. The sun was such a treat.

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September 6th, 2015: La Ruta del Cares.