swan and other songs

Réginald-Jérôme de Mans at large. My book Swan Songs: Souvenirs of Paris Elegance is available now at amzn.to/2Xi5T3p! Posts on topics I write about in my book are tagged #swansongsRJDM or #swansongs

[obeyfeline]

David Hemmings and the Turnbull Turtle

The Blow-Up actor loved this surprisingly controversial turtleneck

Magnificent history of the silk turtleneck formal shirt.

[obeyfeline]

I wanted to be Anthony Bourdain—until I met him.

CW: suicide, suicidal ideation, addiction

[obeyfeline]

Permanent Style

Groupthink: A tale of noughties nostalgia

That’s right, I’m writing again. Check out my latest piece for the inimitable Permanent Style.

[obeyfeline]

Smalto relaunches under aegis of new owners

After a decade of decline, the luxury tailor, acquired by a group of French investors, is back in the spotlight at Pitti Uomo. The company r

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[obeyfeline]

"I'm not owned! I'm not owned!"

1958 ads by Sulka protesting that it is not out of touch, narrow-minded and conservative:

For sale at:

1957 A. Sulka Fashion Advertisement - The ties that blind | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Shirts Ad - Some people think Sulka sells stuffedshirts | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Fashion Ad - Some people think Sulk Old-Fashioned | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Fashion Ad - Some people think Sulka is Allergic to Fashion | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Fashion Ad - Some People Think That Sulka Sells Ties.. Only | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Fashion Ad - Some people think Sulka is a man's store exclusively | eBay

1958 A. Sulka Fashion Ad - Some think Sulka never has store-wide clearance | eBay

1957 A. Sulka Fashion Advertisement - The man who has everything | eBay

1957 A. Sulka Fashion Advertisement - Shopping without hopping | eBay

[obeyfeline]

Olivier Creed, le pionnier de la parfumerie de niche est mort

Cet héritier d’une dynastie fondée en 1760, a fait d’un tailleur confidentiel, un acteur majeur de la parfumerie de luxe depuis quarante ans

RIP Olivier Creed, who turned a Paris custom tailor into an ersatz perfume house.

[obeyfeline]

The Profession That Does Not Exist | Baffler Symposium

A partial history of the hidden labor that makes possible the poems, stories, essays, and books you read.

[ellewantsrevenge]

aadam jacobs's archive

[obeyfeline]

Sulka peacock woven silk dressing gown

Recently sold on the internet (not by me). From their last good period, an example of what Sulka did best - sumptuous dressing gowns in ridiculously ornate patterns. A smoking jacket of theirs in this exact pattern is on the cover of my book (link in bio).

[obeyfeline]

New to me Sulka ties from their last good period 1980s-early 1990s. For more about why, my book is available at the link in my bio.

[obeyfeline]

An Evening with Stan Bush, featuring the music of Bloodsport

[obeyfeline]

A samsara of searches.

[obeyfeline]

André Bardot, tailleur de Jean Marais et Jean Cocteau, à Bois-le-Roi

La maison d’André Bardot à Bois-le-RoiLe groupe des CinqCocteau, poète publicitaireVoir aussi La maison d’André Bardot à Bois-le-Roi LA MAIS

The house of Andre Bardot, founder member of the Groupe des Cinq Paris tailors and tailor to Jean Cocteau and Jean Marais.

[thesixthduke]

King Charles was recently photographed wearing a 60+ year old coat that belonged to his father.

[artexpertsinc]

Crazy Jane, by Richard Dadd; 1885

[obeyfeline]

Diatoms constrain forensic burial timelines: case study with DB Cooper money - Scientific Reports

Diatoms are found universally in waters around the world. Some diatom species such as Asterionella formosa have a broad variation in seasona

[obeyfeline]

Sulka vintage

Some interesting Sulka vintage that passed through the internets recently:

Sulka Paris tie woven with words and images from the fable of the Crow and the Fox by 17th-century poet La Fontaine:

A lovely 1980s alpaca pile "teddy bear" coat, in a lighter shade of alpaca than usual - the alpaca pile used was usually the same used on Steiff teddy bears.