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Photography tips and things you should remember that I've learned over the years.

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Print Processing

Step 1 -- Set the enlarger for a specified amount of time on the developing paper.

Step 2 -- Stabilize the developer at 68° F (20° C) by pouring about 32 oz (946 mL) into your graduate and placing it into a tray of cool or warm water. Next pour it into a tray labeled Developer to a depth of about 1/2 inch.

Step 3 -- Stabilize the stop bath at 65° to 75° F (18° to 24° C) and pour about 1/2 inch into a tray labeled Stop Bath or Stop.

Step 4 -- Stabilize the fixer at 65° to 75° F (18° to 24° C) and pour about 1/2 inch into a tray labeled Fixer. Note: It's a good idea to rinse your graduate after steps 2, 3 and 4.

Step 5 -- Arrange your trays in front of you so that, from left to right, you have developer, stop bath, and fixer. Then rinse your hands well and dry them thoroughly. Turn off all lights except for the safelight. The safelight should be placed at least 4 feet from your working area.

Step 6 -- Open the package of paper, remove one sheet, and close the package again so that light can't get in. Place your negatives so that their dull side faces the emulsion (usually shiny) side of the paper. The negatives should be near the light source. Cover with glass.

Step 7 -- If you're using a printing frame and a 7-watt bulb to make your proof sheet, hang the bare bulb 2 feet above the frame and turn it on for about 10 seconds. You may have to experiment a bit (see step 12) to get the correct exposure time for your negatives.

Step 8 -- If you're using an enlarger, place the empty negative carrier in the enlarger, and set the lens at f/11. Adjust the enlarger so that the light covers an area just a bit larger than your paper. Expose for about 8 seconds. Again, you may have to experiment to get the correct exposure time.

Step 9 -- Remove the paper from your printing device with your left hand (don't get the right one wet with developer) and slide the paper, emulsion side up, into the developer (left-hand tray). Rock the tray gently for 1 minute by tipping up first one end, then the other.

Step 10 -- Take the paper out of the developer with your left hand, and after letting it drain for a second or two, slide it into the stop bath solution (center tray). Agitate the tray for 5 seconds in the same manner you did in step 9.

Step 11 -- With your right hand, withdraw the paper from the stop bath and slip it into the fixer. Agitate frequently for 2 minutes, and keep it separated from any other prints in the tray. After the print has been in the fixer for 25-30 seconds, you can turn on the room lights.

Step 12 -- Examine your proof sheet and if most of the pictures seem too light, try again with double the exposure time you used at first. If most of the pictures seem too dark, use half the exposure time. It's a good idea to keep notes on your exposure times and the results. You'll soon be able to come up with a good average exposure time to use.

Step 13 -- Using your fourth tray, wash the print for only 4 minutes at 64° to 75° F (18° to 24° C). The KODAK Automatic Tray Siphon provides continuous agitation.

Step 14 -- Sponge or squeegee the surface water from both sides of the print and place it onto a flat surface to dry at room temperature.

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Film Processing Steps (B&W)

Step 1 -- In one of the jars, mix the developer according to the package instructions. Label the jar D-76 Dev (developer).

Step 2 -- In the second jar, mix the stop bath according to the package instructions. Label the jar Stop Bath or Stop.

Step 3 -- In the third jar, mix the fixer according to the package instructions. Label this jar Fixer.

Step 4 -- Stabilize the developer at 68° F (20° C) by placing your graduate (filled with the required amount of solution) in a tray of warm or cool water until the temperature has stabilized. The water level in the tray should be at least equal to the level of solution in the graduate. Pour the required amount into the developing tank.

Step 5 -- In total darkness remove your film from the cartridge. With 126- and 110-size films, break open the cartridge by bending the cylindrical chambers toward the label. If you're using roll film, rip off the exposed sticker and then separate the film and paper backing. Use a bottle cap remover to open 35 mm magazines.

Step 6 -- To remove the film from 126 cartridges, separate the plastic sections surrounding the spool. If you're using 110 film, pull the paper backing out of the broken cartridge in a direction that rubs the paper against the cartridge. The film will come out along with the backing. Handle the film by the edges only.

Step 7 -- The film in 126 cartridges is attached to the paper backing with a strip of tape. Detach the film and discard the paper and tape. Handle the film by the edges only.

Step 8 -- Handling the film by the edges, roll it into the apron or reel according to the tank instructions. Put the reel or apron into the tank, secure the lid, and start timing. You may now turn on the room lights.

Step 9 -- Tap the tank against your working surface to remove any air bubbles. After 30 seconds, agitate the tank by inverting it, rotating it in a circular motion, or rotating the reels. Do this for about 5 seconds at 30-second intervals. At the end of the recommended developer time, pour the solution back into the developer jar. When pouring, tip the tank only slightly at the start.

Step 10 -- With the tank tilted a bit, pour the stop bath solution (stabilized at 65 to 75° F/18 - 24° C) through the opening in the top. Do not open the tank. Agitate gently for about 30 seconds, then pour the liquid back into its original jar. Note: It's a good idea to rinse your graduate after each of the processing steps.

Step 11 -- Add the fixer solution (stabilized at 65 to 75° F/18 to 24° C) and agitate for about 5 seconds at 30-second intervals. At the end of the fixing time (2 to 4 minutes with KODAFIX Solution; 5 to 10 minutes with KODAK Fixer) pour the solution into its jar.

Step 12 -- Remove the tank cover, place the tank under a moderate stream of 65 to 75° F (18 to 24° C) water, and let the film wash for about a half hour. To shorten washing time, rinse the film in KODAK Hypo Clearing Agent. First wash the film for 30 seconds. Next submerge it in a Hypo Clearing Agent solution for 1 to 2 minutes, with moderate agitation. Then you need only wash for 5 minutes.

Step 13 -- Hang up the film with a film clip or clothespin at each end. Dampen a viscose sponge, wring it out, and then gently run it along both sides of the film to remove large droplets of water. (To eliminate the necessity of wiping the film, minimize water marks and drying time, rinse the film with diluted KODAK PHOTO-FLO Solution. Follow the instructions on the bottle.) Let the film dry. Don't forget to rinse out all parts of your film tank.

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Processing Film

Needed:

Processing sinks with hot and cold running water (a single faucet is advisable)

Tanks for roll-film processing

Timers

Thermometers for processing tanks

Film clips or a drying cabinet

Graduates

Negative envelopes or sleeves

Sponges

Film squeegees

Scissors

Chemicals

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Chemical Usage

Developer Developer activates the light sensitive crystals that make up the emulsion on your paper. When the crystals come into contact with developer, any parts of the paper exposed to light will become some shade of black. Stop Bath The Stop Bath is an acid that deactivates the developer. As you put a print into the stop bath, it stops turning black. Water and lemon juice can both be used instead of stop bath, but are not nearly as effective. Fixer Fixer removes the unexposed crystals on the emulsion, making the paper light safe. Paper that has been through fixer can then be taken into open light without worries of turning black. Insufficient fixing will turn a picture yellow over time. Hypo Clear Hypo is not always used, but it helps insure uniform drying, so that you won't have any drying marks later on.

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Dark Room Equipment

Supplies

100% Cotton cosmetic pad

Rubbing Alcohol

A light tight room (Must be well ventilated) (Bathrooms with towels shoved under the door can work well)

Running water

Safe light

4 Trays for chemicals

Enlarger with a condenser head (and bulb)

Paper easel (holds the paper in place under the enlarger)

Timer

Squeegee (Technically optional, but highly recommended)

Drying rack/clothes line and pins

Grain enlarger (optional)

Emulsion paper - doesn't matter much what you use. I prefer fiber paper.

Gloves and apron are optional.

Chemical storage bottles

Chemicals:

Developer - I use Kodak Dektol

Stop bath - I use Kodak Indicator stop bath

Fixer - I use Kodak Fixer

Hypo clear - I use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent

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Process of developing film!!

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Apertures!!

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Cameras I own

Panasonic DMC- FZ100 (2010) Praktica MTL5 (German 1985) Konstructior (I built in 2011) Ricoh Diacord (Japan 1958) Polaroid One-Step (Netherlands 1983) Want -Canon 60D - new Polaroid can with stickers - waterproof camera on amazon