Outback Dog Training

Outback Dog Training began with a collection of training videos featuring Koji the Siberian husky, with his 'big brothers' Akuma & Tenshi making guest appearances. Koji was rescued at 7 months of age, totally untrained, and is now our superstar. You can connect with us on YouTube & Facebook at Outback Dog Training or on Twitter at @DogOutback.

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The Importance of Training

We live in a harsh environment and it can be a deadly one.

Today we were alerted by Tenshi that something wasn't right, we headed outside to find him growling at something under the house.

A closer inspection brought us to the realisation that Koji was engaged and attempting to hold something in position, we soon realised that 'something' was one of the most dangerous land snakes in the world.

As he moved towards it and within striking distance, a hurried, 'leave it' was issued, he immediately halted and stepped back. A 'To Me' (his recall command) was issued and he immediately broke eye contact with the snake, backed away and returned.

A bite means death out here - training and commands are essential, they are life savers. This is the second time in 10 months these dogs lives have been saved with this command from snakes.

Train your dogs, recall and leave it are lifesavers in many situations, because our dogs were trained and these commands reinforced over and over, we still have our three beautiful dogs with us today.

Train them, don't excuse them

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We are still about, just working on a few things - a Medical section with Symptoms and Conditions, Training Your Dog to do Tricks Files, and working with our own dogs. For free advice, videos and information on dog training and behaviour, come see us on Facebook at :Outback Dog Training Group

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If only more people thought this way!

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I couldn't imagine my kids growing up without a dog, but I was always super aware of bite prevention. My kids were brought up (as I was) to never, ever get in a dog's face....

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Teach Your Dog to Act Ashamed

Difficulty Level - Medium

Learning Curve - 3-8 days

Variations - Three

Introduction

Imagine how amusing it would be to ask “Who ate the last piece of pie?” Only for everyone to turn around and see your dog acting ashamed. Well now you can, we show you how to teach your dog three variations of ‘Act Ashamed.’

Prerequisites

To teach your dog tricks, you need to have completed and bulletproofed basic obedience, manners and expected behaviours such as 'Sit', 'Down', 'Sit-Stay', Down-Stay’, 'Leave It', 'Focus' and Calm training. A fun, entertaining behaviour can be just as beneficial to your dog's health and happiness as these basics; everything your dog learns builds on previous training. This makes it easier for your dog to learn more advanced skills later. While it is easiest and best to start training your dog when they are young, there is no age at which a dog cannot be taught new things.

What You Need

To begin teaching your dog to act ashamed you need a few basic tools; a flat collar, a 4-6' lead and a loaded treat bag are all essential. Treats are key to a positive training experience; use treats of varying values (low to high) as rewards for your dog exhibiting wanted behaviours.

Beyond the physical you need to want to teach your dog; calmness, patience and consistency are also essential. Your dog has evolved to please you. There is nothing they do out of spite. They want to please, if they don’t it is simply because they do not yet fully understand what you want or what is expected of them.

If you become frustrated, angry, disappointed or your dog seems bored or unfocused immediately finish on a positive note and go and play a game, take a walk or sit and watch the sunset together.

Remember Calmness, Patience, Consistency and Repetition are Key

To learn how to teach your dog to 'Act Ashamed' come find us on Facebook:

Outback Dog Training Group.

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It IS possible to train a Husky...

I hate seeing those same old posts saying 'You can't train a Husky' or 'You need an E-collar to get a Husky to listen'.

These posts, these individuals are one of the reasons why so many of these dogs end up in shelters, why so many end up dead.

The fault is not in the breed but at the other end of the lead.

One Husky trained with a collar, without even a harsh word.

https://youtu.be/vzp1YT7V--M

This is what a 'Leave It' command should be like, no matter the breed...

Want to learn how?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Outbackdogtraining/

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How to use a rolled up newspaper in training your dog...

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Submissive Urination

Troy Wilson & Rosita Wilson - Outback Dog Training Group

Submissive urination is a normal part of dog communication; they use it as a form of conciliation. A dog who submissively urinates is saying “I'm not a threat”. While not all dogs will utilise this means of communication, some will use it when they are extremely excited, when they are feeling intimidated or that they need to submit. It is common for dogs who submissively urinate to do so when they are playing, getting petted, being corrected for unwanted behaviour, or meeting someone (particularly someone new). It's like they lose control of their bladder. The amount of urine released will vary from dog to dog.

A dog who submissively urinates will use submissive body language when in a situation likely to trigger submissive urination; they may cower, raise their front paws, tuck their tail away, lick their lips, lay their ears back and/or grin submissively. The grin, although often showing teeth, is not a threat; it's the dog version of a nervous smile and is often accompanied by body wiggling, squinting eyes and lip licking; it is a conciliatory gesture. This behaviour usually occurs when meeting someone or during stressful interactions with people, such as a visit to the vet.

Submissive urination is mostly seen in puppies but can also manifest in older dogs. Females seem to be more prone to submissive urination than than their male counterparts and it is more common in dogs lacking confidence. The circumstances where individual dogs may submissively urinate will depend on the dog themselves; they are all different and have different triggers. Some dogs will experience submissive urination only with other dogs, some only with their owners, others with visitors and some only at the vet.

Medical Causes to Rule Out

If your puppy or dog experiences sudden changes in their toilet habits or is experiencing unwanted urination it is advisable to have them vet checked as there may be underlying medical issues.

Upset stomach

If your dog is fully potty trained but is experiencing loose bowel movements or diarrhoea in the house they may have an upset stomach.

Dietary Changes

If you have recently changed what or how much you feed your dog, they may experience a stomach upset. Often a change in diet will see a dog experience loose bowel movements or diarrhoea; they may also need to go to the potty more often than previously. The times of day your dog will need to go to the potty may also change.

UTI

A UTI (urinary tract infection) can cause dogs to release small amounts of urine regularly. If your dog has a UTI they may have blood in their urine and/or lick their genitals excessively.

Medication

Some medications including diuretics and steroids can cause regular urination.

Incontinence

This is a medical condition where a dog 'leaks' or voids their bladder unintentionally, sometimes even while they are asleep. Your dog is probably unaware they have messed themselves.

Genital abnormalities

Genital abnormalities can sometimes cause incontinence.

Diseases

There are diseases that can cause frequent urination such as diabetes, liver and kidney diseases.

All medical problems should be be assessed by a vet before your dog is evaluated and treated for submissive urination. Once your dog has been vet-checked, if they are found to be healthy with no underlying medical issues that could cause unwanted urination, it is time to look for behavioural issues and potential triggers to unwanted urination. The cause may be a training or behavioural issue.

Behavioural Factors to Rule Out

Your Puppy is Not Potty Trained

It can take 4 - 6 months to get a puppy completely potty trained, but some take up to a year. A pup of less than 12 weeks of age may not have had any potty training; they may not know the rules relating to urination and defecation. Or it may be that they haven't yet learned to control their bladder or bowels; they may not have the ability to 'hold on'. Puppies usually begin to develop this ability around 12 - 16 weeks of age. For details on how to potty train your puppy refer to our articles on Potty Training and our supplementary document to potty training Bell Training Your Puppy for Potty.

Incomplete Potty Training

A puppy or dog who has not been fully potty trained may mess in the house if they are not given enough opportunities to go outside to the potty; when they are left alone in the house for long periods, during the night, first thing in the morning or when there is a change in the household routine that impacts their ability to get outside to the potty. They may sneak out of the room where they sleep to mess in other rooms. Some dogs who are not fully potty trained will mess anywhere in the house but others will go in rooms that are not used often. It may be that your dog does not know how to tell you they need to go to the potty or you may be missing the signs. To resolve this, you need to go back to the very beginning of potty training and start from there. For details see our articles on Potty Training and  Bell Training Your Puppy for Potty.

Marking

Dogs use urine as a means to communicate with each other - they 'mark' to identify themselves, let others know they are there, that this is their space or because they are frustrated, stressed or in a situation that is causing them anxiety. In the wild, this is the domain of the 'top dog'. In the human world dogs can get confused about where they stand in the social hierarchy, particularly if there is not a clear and consistent pattern of behavioural expectation. So they mark. Most dogs, both male and female, will lift their leg to urinate. To learn more about canine marking and how to stop it see our article on Canine Marking.

Isolation or Separation Anxiety

If your dog only experiences unwanted urination when they are left alone at home, even if they are only left for short periods, they may be suffering from isolation or separation anxiety. Your dog may be visibly upset or nervous before you leave. This can be resolved with training; you need to teach your dog to be alone. Begin with calm training so your dog learns to relax. You should also consider crate training your dog if you haven't already done so; this will teach your dog that they have a 'safe place' to wait for your return.

If you have eliminated all other possibilities and your dog only experiences unwanted urination when they are excited, anxious or nervous then your dog is likely experiencing submissive urination.

Training Your Dog Not to Urinate Submissively

The majority of dogs grow out of submissive urination by the time they turn one, often without human intervention. This does not change the fact that it is a messy, unpleasant thing to have to deal with. And the reality is that some dogs never grow out of it. However there are steps you can take to manage or minimise submissive urination and maybe even eliminate it.

Try the following:

Whenever you can, greet your dog outside the house. Distract your dog by tossing a few treats or a favourite toy gently towards them as they come to greet you so their attention is on the treats or toy rather than you. You are trying to make yourself less exciting.

If you can't greet your dog outside, ignore them when you walk in the door. Wait until your dog is calm before you acknowledge them, then greet them calmly. Get down to your dog's level - sit on the floor or squat down; don't stand over your dog. Don't look directly at your dog, look off to one side. Don't walk squarely towards your dog, turn your body slightly sideways. This is so you do not appear intimidating or confrontational to your dog.

Teach your dog that they must sit when they greet someone; begin at home with someone the dog already knows well.

Pat your under the chin or on their chest. Patting your dog on the chest will also help to calm them.

Don't:

Rev your dog up when you are playing; use toys to entertain your dog and avoid bodily contact.

Hug your dog or pat your dog around their head. If you must have body contact, pat your dog under their chin or on their chest.

Ignore your dog if they do submissively urinate. Continue with potty training.

Ignore your dog if you suspect they are about to submissively urinate. Continue with potty training.

Use negative words, tone of voice, facial expressions or body language when dealing with your dog's submissive urination; this may make the problem worse.

Tell your dog off for accidents; this may make the problem worse. Punishing your dog for accidents  may also make the problem worse, so avoid doing this, no how frustrated you are. Your dog needs training, not punishment.

to our YouTube Channel for more training videos and updates.

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The Dogs of Outback Dog Training - Akuma

Akuma the 4 year old red & tan kelpie is the oldest of the 3 Outback dogs. A Queenslander of working stock (his family are in sheep), he was the first to join the team. Devoted to Mum, Akuma is a fan of 'Tug’, and doesn’t mind a game of 'Fetch’. Another of his favourite things to do is go swimming, preferably in fresh water, whenever there is the opportunity. He is not as confident as his little brother Tenshi though; he tends to tire far easier, and look for safety in the arms of his people.

Akuma is Outback's best 'distance' dog, able to follow commands at up to 1km (just over .5 mile), is a trained personal protection dog, guard dog and boundary rider. He is happiest when there is no-one around except for his people and his brothers; if he had his way, the family would live in the middle of nowhere, and he'd sleep at his people's feet all day.

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Meet the Dogs of Outback Dog Training - Koji

The superstar of the Outback training videos, Koji the Siberian Husky is the ‘baby’ of the family at 1.5 years of age. Born in South Australia to an Australian mum and a Canadian dad, Koji is of show stock (Dad was a US/Canadian Champion, and Mum is no slouch herself).

Totally untrained and horribly skittish when he came into the family at 7 months, Koji has come ahead in leaps and bounds, and has bonded well with Akuma, Tenshi and his people.  These days he not only comes for a cuddle when called, he will wander up and demand a cuddle in no uncertain terms.

Unlike his brothers he is not a fan of games, although he is coming around to the joys of a good game of 'Tug'. Unlike Tenshi and Akuma, who love the water, Koji is distinctly unhappy with the idea of a swim, although if the sprinklers are on, he will happily dance in them all day long.  He adores riding in the car; if the ute comes out, he'd better be coming along. Words shall be had otherwise...

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Bell Training Your Puppy for Potty

by Troy Wilson & Rosita Wilson - Outback Dog Training Group

Being a dog living in the human world isn't always an easy gig. You humans have rules; rules that just don't make that much sense to us dogs. We don't understand that it is not ok to urinate or defecate indoors. We don't understand the need to go outside. We don't have opposable thumbs and we couldn't reach the door handle to open it if we did. We try to tell you, but you are often too busy to notice us.

It can be very difficult for us to know when our pets need to go outside to eliminate. We are often distracted, busy or inattentive. Some dogs may not always show obvious signs that they need to go to the potty, while others may be able to clearly communicate their need. If your dog is in the first category, don't worry, you can train them to let you know when they need the potty.

Signs Your Dog Needs the Potty

Your dog may already be clearly indicating they need the potty and you are missing their signals. It may also be that you don't understand their signals. Clear signs will include:

Pacing,

Sniffing,

Whining,

Circling,

Moving far away from you (to the other side of the room),

Sniffing at table legs or walls,

Coming up to you whining, wagging and/or staring,

Going into corners or behind things,

Acting anxious,

Standing by or scratching the door.

If your dog exhibits any of these signs, take them outside on a lead to their designated potty spot; refer to our

Potty Training

article for how to achieve this, and how to teach a potty command.Make a mental note of what your dog did to let you know they wanted out and next time you see these behaviours, take them out straight away.

Other Things You Can Do

If your dog is eliminating inside because their signals aren't clear, it's time to train them to do something really obvious to let you know they need the potty. For example, if your dog currently stands quietly near the door, but you can't see the door, you will have no idea they are asking to go out.

A popular method is to train your dog to ring a bell hung by the door, so even if you are in another room, you will hear when your dog needs to go out. Once you have trained your dog to ring the bell with a touch of their nose, you will need to train them to ring the bell before you open the door to take them out every time. The end goal is to teach your dog that they need to ring the bell to go outside for the potty; when they ring the bell, you open the door.

Teaching Your Dog to Ring a Bell to Go Out to the Potty

You can buy a dog door bell or make your own using sleigh bells. Put some sturdy string in the bells; you will use this to attach them to the door handle or a hook near the door.Teach Your Dog to '

Touch the Bells

Because you want your dog to touch the bell, you need them to understand a 'Touch' command. You can find our video series on how to teach this command here.

Step One - Touch the Bells

Once your dog knows 'Touch' you can introduce the bells; follow the steps in the 'Touch' videos, specifically in the 'Target Introduction' video.Show your dog the bells, just a couple of inches from their nose, and use your 'Touch' command.

The instant your dog's nose touches the bells; mark, praise and treat. Repeat until your dog touches the bells every time on command.Now move the bells further away, repeating the command. When your dog touches the bells; mark, praise and treat. Keep moving the bells further from your dog, over a number of days. When you are sure your dog has the idea, move to Step Two.

Step Two - Ring the Bells

Connect the bells to your door handle, or put them on a hook next to the door. Make sure you have treats, and call your dog over.Hold the bells (still attached to the door or hook) out to your dog and give your 'Touch' command. When your dog touches the bells with their nose; mark, praise and treat. Repeat until your dog is touching the bells without hesitation every time you give the 'Touch' command.Next, just point to the bells and give your dog the 'Touch' command. When your dog touches the bells with their nose; mark, praise and treat.

Repeat until your dog is touching the bells without hesitation every time you give the 'Touch' command. If your dog doesn't touch the bells, take a step back in your training and hold the bells. After your dog has experienced more success at that level, try pointing at the bells again. Mark, praise and treat every time your dog touches the bells.

Now, move a little further away from the bells, and repeat the exercise. Remember, if your dog doesn't touch the bells, remain calm, and go back to the previous step.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Repeat Step Two until your dog is touching the bells every time.

It's the Right Time

Once your dog knows how to ring the bells, you can teach them to use the bells to let you know they need to go potty.Every time you take your dog out to the potty, ask them to ring the bells before you open the door.As you approach the door, give your 'Touch' command and point to the bells. The instant your dog touches the bells; mark, praise and treat. Then open the door and lead your dog outside.

Make sure your dog rings the bells every time they need to go out to the potty. Repetition is key to your dog learning to use the bells to let you know they need the potty. The first time your dog uses the bells on their own - JACKPOT! - be lavish in your praise. Maybe even give extra treats after your dog goes to the potty the first time they use the bells on their own, or even the first few times, just to reinforce the training.

Be Aware

Play Time versus Potty Time

Some dogs, once they realise ringing the bells gets the door open, will start to use the bells when they want to go out to play as well as when they want the potty. If this is what your dog is doing, teach them the bells are only for potty time, not play time.

When your dog rings the bells, praise them, put them on a leash, and take them to their potty spot. Do not play with your dog, or allow them to play. Give them five minutes to do their business; if they go, mark, praise and treat, then take them back inside. If your dog doesn't go, just take them back inside. Don't speak to your dog, apart from giving the potty command, unless they go to the potty.

Accidents Happen!

If you teach your dog to use the bells to let you know when they need to go to the potty, but they still have 'accidents' your dog may not understand they need to go out to eliminate, how to tell you they need to go out to eliminate, or your training hasn't taken. Go back to the beginning of potty training and start again; make sure each stage is 100% before moving on. Be calm, patient and persistent.

Additional Tips

Always seek medical advice if your dog continues to have accidents, or the frequency of urination/defecation suddenly changes; your dog may have a UTI or some other issue.

There are a number of commercial dog door bells available; some have actual bells attached to fabric that you hang on or near the door, while others are button-operated (your dog uses their paw to press these; the training principles are the same); all these come with training instructions.

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Toilet Training Your Puppy

By Troy Wilson - Outback Dog Training Group

Toilet training our puppies requires us to have a flexible schedule we can adjust to suit our puppy's individual needs. We need to be consistent, alert, patient, calm and ready with lots of positive reinforcement. When our puppy has accidents, they will not be not the puppy's fault, they will be ours. We missed the signs, delayed a trip outside, overslept or our schedule needs adjusting. We should not correct or punish our puppy for accidents; we need to adjust our schedule, be more vigilant, and remain patient and calm - the end result will be a puppy who has good toilet habits, and a loving bond with us.

It often takes 4 - 6 months to get a puppy completely toilet trained, but some take up to a year. The adult size of the dog may be a factor; smaller breeds require more trips outside as their bladders are smaller. Another factor is the human on the end of the leash. It all depends on how consistent we are; this is often the determining factor in how quickly our puppy is toilet trained. Additionally, we may need to break old habits created in our puppy's previous home; this may extend the time we will need to toilet train completely.

Having said this, I aim to have a puppy toilet trained in the first 2 weeks; at this point my puppy will ask to go out and understand and follow a 'toilet command'. My puppy will still need to be taken out as per the (flexible) schedule I have arranged, but they will have a thorough understanding that toilet is strictly an outdoor activity.

There will be accidents; we need to adjust our schedule, be consistent, remain patient and calm, keep up the positive reinforcement and our puppy will learn.

When to Start Toilet Training

It is recommended by experts that toilet training begin between 12 - 16 weeks; this is because around this age your puppy will have enough control of both bladder and bowel movements to 'hold it'. I personally begin toilet training on Day 1; I don't wait. I don't use pee pads, newspaper, toweling or anything similar. I immediately begin teaching my puppy that all toileting is to be done outside.

This requires a lot of work and supervision on my behalf, as I need to be continually monitoring my puppy and taking them out to the toilet. In nearly all cases, however, within the first 2 weeks I have a puppy who can go on command, and tell me (as long as they are not overly distracted) when they need to go. Monitoring and supervision takes care of those situations, and a ritualistic schedule ensures my puppy isn't toileting in their crate.

My current oldest 2 dogs between them had a total of  2 accidents; one at 8 weeks, one at 9 weeks, both while they were playing and distracted. I missed the signs.

How to Toilet Train

Even before you get your puppy you should define the areas where you can contain them; don't allow your puppy to have free access of your house or rooms. One of the best ways to contain your puppy and maintain full supervision is to tether train and crate train your puppy when they cannot be supervised. Not only does this help with toilet training, it is the best way to teach your puppy the rules of the house, and correct and redirect any unwanted behaviours into wanted behaviours..

There are a few basics you will need to follow.

Feed your puppy on a schedule and stick to it. There should be scheduled meal times; whatever is not eaten in 10 minutes should be picked up and thrown away. Do not allow 'free grazing'. This is a good opportunity to begin to teach food manners; our 'Food Etiquette' video series is perfect for this. Always ensure your puppy has access to cool, clean, fresh water.

Follow a Schedule

It is critically important that you follow a flexible schedule. You will need to take into account your puppy's age, breed, food and environmental factors as these may all have an impact on their toileting needs. Have set meal times. My dogs' last meal of the day, no matter their age, is 4.30 – 5.00 pm; this allows them to digest their dinner before bed. Obviously, they will still need to urinate; how often will depend on their age. This does not mean you should feed your puppy at this time; schedule feeds according to your own lifestyle.

Be prepared to lose sleep; being disciplined and losing a few hours sleep will speed up the toilet training process, making life easier and more pleasant for you and your puppy.

The Golden Rule of Time

The accepted rule for puppies holding their bladder is a maximum of 1 hour per month of age, so a 2 month old puppy should be able to hold on for 2 hours, a 3 month old for 3 hours and so on. But all puppies are different and many other factors come into play.

These are maximum times and are often a real stretch for a puppy; in the real world it is unlikely they will make that time unless they are crated and calm with little to no movement and manfully holding on.  Not to mention extremely uncomfortable.

A better rule of thumb when your puppy is out of their crate and moving around would be a maximum of 30 - 45 minutes per month of age at 2 months old,  1.5 – 2 hours total at 3 months and an hour for each month from 4 months.

This rule of thumb is much more accurate, and will make organising your puppy's toilet training schedule much simpler.

When to Take Your Puppy to the Toilet

When they wake up in the morning;

5 - 10 minutes after they eat or drink;

When they get up from a nap;

Before training;

After training;

Before they play;

During play;

After they play;

Every hour;

Whenever they look restless;

Before you go out;

Whenever they get excited;

Whenever they greet somebody;

When you come home;

Just before the last person in the house goes to bed;

Once or twice a night (set an alarm for 3 - 4 hours but be flexible. Each puppy is different).

Night Time Toileting

If you don't feed your puppy 2 hours before their bed time and take them out to the toilet right before you go to bed, they shouldn't have to go out too often during the night.

An 8 week old puppy should last 3 - 5 hours. Remember, this will depend on the individual puppy and environmental factors. You will still have to get up in the night; set an alarm for 3 - 4 hours and see how you go; adjust your schedule as needed.

Even if your puppy is asleep when you get up, take them out anyway. If your puppy needs to go before the allocated time, they will certainly attempt to let you know. If you hear them, immediately get up and take them out and adjust your schedule accordingly. If you fail to hear them, clean up your puppy and the mess; do not punish your puppy. Adjust your schedule; flexibility is key.

By 10 - 16 weeks, your puppy could be making up to 7 hours a night. This may happen earlier, it may happen later. Remember, each puppy is an individual; there are no hard-and-fast rules here.

The Training

This is how I toilet train all of my puppies. This process NEVER CHANGES, no matter what. This is also how I suggest you toilet train your puppy.

Put your puppy on a tether or a lead.

Ignore your puppy - no talking, no petting. Nothing...

Walk your puppy outside - go the same way, out through the same door every time.

Walk your puppy to the designated toilet spot. Make sure the area is clear and there are no toys or anything else in the area that your puppy might play with or that will distract them from the business at hand. Once there, and only then, issue a toilet command. I use 'LOOK SHARP'; use any term you want your puppy to associate with going to the toilet.

No further talking. None. Not one word.

Don’t allow your puppy to play, run or jump - NOTHING. Your puppy's only job right now is to go to the toilet. If they try to play, give a gentle double tug on the lead/tether to distract them. SAY NOTHING!

If your puppy goes to the toilet; mark, praise and reward as soon as they finish. Remember a number one is often followed by a second number one and/or a number two, so after your initial success and after you have marked, praised and rewarded your puppy, issue the toilet command again and wait.

If your puppy goes again - mark, praise and reward as soon as they finish. Once all toileting needs have been attended to, walk your puppy back inside without speaking, patting or making eye contact. Continue with everyday life until the next time.

If you want to take your puppy outside to play, come inside, wait 5 minutes, then go back outside to play. You want to clearly mark the distinction between toilet time and play time.

If after 5 - 10 minutes your puppy hasn't gone - without a word, a pat, a treat or eye contact, walk back inside and continue with everyday life. Try again in 10 minutes, repeating all of the above steps: continue following these steps until your puppy goes to the toilet. Then return to your normal toileting schedule.

If you come inside and the moment you do your puppy relieves themself, ensure you extend the time you are outside. Stay calm, consistent and focussed on the job at hand. Remember, punishment or anger  will only serve to fill your puppy with fear and anxiety and worsen any toileting issues. This is a puppy; the mistakes are ours.

This is how it goes, every time, no matter what. If it’s 2 a.m. and you haven't slept for days, if it's raining, if it's snowing; it still goes the same way. If you are short on time, running late for an appointment or your favourite TV show is on; this is how it goes, nothing changes.

Stay calm. Don't hurry the process, don’t skip steps, don’t talk to your puppy other than issuing a toilet command when you reach the designated toilet area and again when you mark, praise and reward your puppy after the fact.  No other comments, no other talking.

Remember: don’t take your puppy to the toilet and then let them off to play. Your puppy goes to the toilet, then immediately back inside. Wait 5 minutes, then take your puppy outside to play. You want to ensure play and toilet are two separate entities.

Crate Training

A crate can be a way to keep your puppy where you can supervise them and recognise the signs that they need to go to the toilet.

A few things to remember when using a crate:

The crate should be big enough that your puppy can stand up, turn around and lie down, but not so big they can use one corner as a bathroom.

If you are leaving your puppy in their crate make sure they have fresh water in a spill-proof container.

If you aren't going to be home while you are toilet training your puppy, try to arrange for someone else to come in and give them a break from the crate, such as a neighbour, family member, friend or a local dog walker.

If your puppy is messing in their crate you may need a new strategy; keeping your puppy crated when they repeatedly mess their crate isn't going to work. There are a number of reasons why your puppy may be doing this; they may be too young to 'hold on', they may have bad habits carried over from where they lived previously, they are not getting out enough, or they may have a medical problem.

Warning Signs

Your puppy will let you know when they need to go out; the signs, however, may be subtle. Your puppy may whine, circle, sniff around, seem restless, anxious or bark if they are in their crate or tethered. If your puppy is loose, they may exhibit any or all of these behaviours, as well as barking or scratching at the door or floor. Do not ignore these signs, take your puppy out straight away.

Accidents Will Happen

While our puppy grows and learns, they will most likely have accidents. It may take as long as 12 months before all accidents are eliminated. Why? Because shit happens. There are many things that can cause a puppy to have an accident, from changes in their environment to incomplete toilet training.

When our puppy has an accident; we need to remain calm and keep up the training. Remember: all accidents, all missed signs are our fault; we failed our puppy. It is us who need to learn, it is us who need to do better. We shouldn't blame our puppy.

If there are repeated frequent accidents, we need to ensure our puppy is vet-checked to rule out any underlying medical issues.

Do's and Don’ts

Do not restrict your puppy's water intake to make life easier for yourself. This is a growing trend that has resulted in puppies suffering from dehydration. In some cases, puppies have died.

Do not punish your puppy for accidents; they can't help it.

If you 'catch them in the act' clap loudly to interrupt and let them know the behaviour is unacceptable, then get them outside as quickly as possible to finish. Mark, praise and treat once they are done.

If you find 'evidence' of an accident, but don't see it happen, do not yell or rub your puppy's nose in their mess. Puppies do not comprehend 'after the fact' punishment.

Keeping your puppy outside longer when they go may help reduce accidents; it can take a little time to get things going.

When cleaning up accidents, do not use an ammonia-based cleaner. Use an enzymatic one to get rid of any smells that may encourage your puppy to mess there again.

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Destructive Chewing

By Troy Wilson & Rosita Wilson   - Outback Dog Training

Chewing is instinctual behaviour for dogs and puppies; they use their mouths to explore the world, it is how they garner information. Puppies also chew to relieve teething pain. Adult dogs use chewing to keep their teeth clean and their jaws strong; this is a natural behaviour.

Chewing is also your dog's way of dealing with stress; it is Nature's Prozac. Chewing is also one of the first things a dog will turn to when it is bored, frustrated or stressed.

If your puppy or dog seems to be chewing compulsively, have them vet checked; there may be an underlying medical cause.

Problems that Can Lead to Destructive Chewing

Anxiety

For the purposes of this article, anxiety will include basic anxieties, isolation anxiety and separation anxiety. To relieve anxiety puppies and dogs will often turn to chewing; if not properly supervised this chewing will be unwanted and destructive. Anxiety is usually more prevalent when they are left alone. Isolation and separation anxiety always come with other signs and symptoms such as whining, barking, urination, defecation, pacing and general restlessness. Anxiety can be addressed through training, but you may need to seek help from a behaviourist or trainer.

Sucking on Fabric

Some dogs suck and chew fabrics. There is a school of thought that argues this is the result of too-early weaning. If your dog is a long-term fabric-sucker and is not easily distracted from this activity, they have formed a habit; in essence, it is an addiction. Fortunately, like many unwanted behaviours, this can be trained out. If this habit has become obsessive, you may need to seek assistance from a behaviourist or trainer.Hunger Dogs on restricted diets may chew as they seek sources of nutrition. This kind of chewing is usually aimed at objects that look or smell like food. Training and supervision can solve this problem, but if you are at all concerned, have your dog vet-checked to ensure there are no underlying medical conditions and they are getting sufficient nutrition.

Stress and Frustration

Dogs will sometimes chew if they are stressed. Identify the stressors affecting your dog and strategise ways to resolve the issue. These may include removing the stressors or desensitisation training

for your dog. Your dog may also be chewing from frustration; wanting to do a particular activity and not being able to. To vent their frustration, they chew; anticipate this and make sure they have an appropriate chew toy when they are likely to be in these situations. Make sure your dog has an appropriate amount of physical exercise and mental stimulation. Training your dog to be calm is extremely important.

How to Manage or Reduce Your Dog’s Destructive Chewing

Supervise, Supervise, Supervise!

The best way to supervise your dog and stop unwanted, destructive chewing is to tether train. If you see your dog licking or chewing something they shouldn't be, give a short, sharp correction sound ('ARGHH!') and redirect to something they can chew. If you can't be with your dog, put them in a crate.

Teething Puppies

Curiosity and discomfort are the motivating factors for puppies to chew. The chewing due to teething stage begins around four months, and usually ends by six months. You can give your puppy special frozen chew toys, ice-blocks or something similar to chew to ease their pain if you wish. Redirect your puppy to chew appropriate items. Do not give your puppy things like frozen washcloths as these are easily swallowed and can also confuse your puppy as to what is and is not appropriate to chew.

Dog-proofing Your Home

Restrict access by creating off-limit areas.  Ensure doors to these areas are closed or use baby gates to contain your puppy/dog.

Put items you don't want chewed out of range - on higher shelves, benches, in cupboards, drawers or closed-off rooms.

Cover electrical cords, or make them inaccessible.

Put plants up out of the dog's reach - some plants are toxic to dogs, so this is crucially important.

Make sure your dog has plenty of appropriate toys, including chew toys. Rotate your dog's toys so they don't get bored with the same old ones.

Give your dog a natural bone or something like a 'bully stick' to chew every week or so. Make sure bones are not cooked, as they can splinter and harm your dog and always supervise your dog when they have a natural bone. Do not give your dog rawhide bones, pig's ears or other similar chewables.

Work out what time of day your dog seems most inclined to chew and give them something else to do; a puzzle toy, some training, a game with you etc.

Spray items you don't want chewed and cannot remove to safety with chewing deterrents. Spray some deterrent on a rag and let your dog sniff and taste the rag; this will teach him to associate the smell with the bad taste. Re-spray the off-limits objects every day for two to four weeks; by this time your dog should have learned what he is not to chew. It is crucial that you don't just deter your dog from chewing; you need to show them what they can chew, so remain vigilant.

Spend plenty of time with your dog playing both physically, and more importantly, mentally tiring games. Do not get your dog all revved up, then leave them alone; this increases the risk of chewing.

Do not confuse your dog. Make sure you give dog-only appropriate toys; do not give your dog old shoes, socks, cushions, or household items to play with. Do not give them dog-appropriate toys that look like everyday items as this will only confuse them and encourage unwanted chewing.

Teach your dog to be calm. This is crucial as it teaches your dog that doing nothing is ok. A bored, frustrated or over-stimulated dog is a dog who is likely to chew, so teach your dog to be calm.

Discourage inappropriate chewing. If your dog begins to chew something they shouldn't, correct and redirect. Train your dog not to chew.

Don't

Verbally or physically punish your dog. This includes showing your dog the damage they have done; they will not know what they have done wrong, or understand why they are being punished. Dogs do not comprehend 'after the fact' punishment. Train your dog not to chew. Be patient and consistent.

Use your hands, tape or similar to force your dog's mouth closed to prevent chewing; get anger management for yourself and train your dog not to chew. Be patient and consistent.

Tape a chewed object in your dog's mouth or tie a damaged item to your dog; get anger management for yourself and train your dog not to chew. Be patient and consistent.

Muzzle your dog to prevent chewing - this is not what muzzles are for. Train your dog not to chew. Be patient and consistent.

In Conclusion

Dogs chew - it is in their nature. But what they chew is up to us - we can teach them to chew appropriately. All it takes is a little time, patience and consistency.

For free training videos & advice come see us at:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCR1L47VjjZKeH1AArpe9VDw https://www.facebook.com/groups/Outbackdogtraining/

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Problem Barking

It is unrealistic to expect your dog to never bark; this is the equivalent of expecting your child to never speak. However, some dogs bark excessively. If this is a problem you have, the first thing you need to do is work out why your dog is barking. Once you know the triggers for the barking you can begin to train your dog that excessive barking is unacceptable.

Why Do Dogs Bark?

Dogs bark to communicate; it is how they 'talk'. What the barking means will vary depending on the situation. Some reasons dogs bark include:

Hello/Come Play barking– dogs will sometimes bark in greeting, whether they are greeting people or other dogs. They will also bark to try to encourage their human or another dog to play with them.

Attention barking – dogs will bark to get their human's attention; this may be for a pat, a treat, to get you to play a game or let them outside.

Boredom barking – bored dogs may bark in an attempt to get attention or company. This can escalate into destructive behaviour.

Compulsive barking – some dogs seem to bark just for the love of hearing their own voice. Dogs who bark compulsively often exhibit repetitive actions as well, such as running in circles.

Anxiety barking – this is similar to fear barking. The dog is upset and afraid, and barks to express this feeling. If your dog is anxious, and you do not address the problem, your dog may develop aggressive behaviours.

Fear barking – dogs may bark if they are startled. A loud noise or an object that startles them can lead to a fearful bark. Certain situations or experiences that cause a dog fear may also lead to fearful barking. This kind of barking can escalate to territorial barking and result in aggressive behaviour.

Territorial barking– your dog may be protecting what they see as their territory from a perceived threat; this could be a person or another dog. As the threat comes closer, the barking will increase. Your dog will act and behave aggressively during this kind of barking.

How to Treat Excessive Barking

Training your dog not to bark excessively will take time, patience and consistency. It may take a long time to correct, but with persistence and consistency you will get there.

If your dog suddenly begins to bark excessively, or exhibits sudden changes in behaviour get your dog vet-checked to make sure there is not a medical reason they are barking. Pain or illness could be the root cause of the excessive barking.

Shouting at your dog will not help. Your dog will think you are joining in the conversation and will continue to bark. They may even increase their efforts. Don't yell; speak firmly and calmly to your dog.

Don't ignore the problem; the longer your dog is allowed to continue an unwanted behaviour, the more of a habit it becomes, and the harder it will be to train out. Barking can lead to a release of chemicals in your dog's brain; your dog can then become addicted to barking.

If your dog barks when they are alone and/or bored, tire them out. Games that mentally tire your dog are best; excessive exercise can over-stimulate your dog and may lead to increased barking. Mild exercise combined with games and training will physically and mentally tire your dog.

Once you have identified the reason(s) your dog is barking, you can begin to work on fixing the problem.

Attention Barking - if your dog is barking for attention, ignore them. If your dog barks because they want you to do something and you do it, you are teaching your dog that barking will get them what they want and they will continue this self-rewarding behaviour. If your dog is barking because they need to go outside to toilet, teach them an alternate way of letting you know.

Don't tell your dog off for barking. This is still attention; you are still giving your dog what they want. Ignore the barking and teach calm non-vocal communication.

You should never reward your dog for barking when you come home; no petting, praising or making eye contact until your dog is calm. Once this happens - JACKPOT! - lots of praise and pats.

Boredom Barking - if boredom or loneliness is a problem for your dog, give them something to do while you are away. Train your dog to be alone; crate training is essential for this. Give your dog appropriate (mild) physical exercise to avoid over-stimulation. Play mentally-stimulating (and therefore tiring) games with your dog before you go out. If your dog is an outside dog, bringing them inside will reduce the impact on your neighbours and offer better security for your home. You will need to train your dog to be inside or in a crate.

This will not be a complete solution if your dog is bored inside. Maybe look at getting a friend, family member or paid dog walker to visit with your dog each day while you are out. A further option is to take your dog to doggy daycare a few days a week. Your dog will get to play with other dogs, in a safe, supervised environment, so has the added benefit of learning to play with other dogs and socialising with other humans. If this is not an option for you, try a food-dispensing toy or two, like a Kong. This will keep your dog entertained and mentally stimulated. A mentally-stimulated dog is a tired dog, and therefore a quiet dog.

Fear/Territorial Barking - if your dog is barking because they seeking to protect their territory, or because they are frightened or alarmed, try limiting their ability to see or hear the cause of the barking. The quickest way to stop this is to manage your dog's environment; remove their sight-lines to potential barking triggers.

Outside, use privacy fencing. You could use the kind that installs over existing fences or plant privacy hedges.

In the house, consider closing curtains and blinds. Spray-on glass coatings or opaque removable plastic films that allow light in but decrease visibility are also options.

If your dog barks at night, bring them inside, and train them to be quiet. Having your dog inside will give the added bonus of increased protection for your family.

Anxiety Barking - if your dog is barking because of anxiety, you need to work out the cause of the anxiety, the 'triggers', and seek methods to reduce this. You may need to seek professional help to address this problem.

Hello/Come Play Barking - dogs that bark at the ringing of a doorbell, a knock on the door or when you get home need to be trained out of this behaviour. One way to do this is to teach your dog a 'Place' command. Train your dog to go to their 'Place' and to remain there calmly when the door opens. It is a good idea to train your dog within sight of the door, but not too close.

Choose a spot, and get your dog to go there, but do not open the door. Use treats and praise, until your dog is going to their 'Place' on command and remaining there calmly until released 100% of the time.

Once your dog has mastered this, have them on a tether or lead and open the door; if your dog goes to move or bark, give a double tap on the tether/lead (only hard enough to get the focus from the door back to you). At the same time, use a clear, sharp correction sound like 'ARGHH!' so your dog understands they are not to move or bark; their job is to remain calm and wait for a command.

Once your dog is remaining calmly in place when the door is opened have someone come in the door; if your dog goes to move or bark, give a double tap on the tether/lead (only hard enough to get the focus from the door to you). At the same time, use a clear, sharp correction sound like 'ARGHH!' so your dog understands they are not to move or bark; their job is to remain calm and wait for a command.

Compulsive barking - dogs who bark compulsively may also need professional help to identify the cause of their compulsion and techniques to resolve the issue.

Should You Use a Bark Collar or Similar Device?

Thanks to advances in technology and a wider understanding of dog behaviour, there are some products on the market that claim to effectively control barking in a gentle, humane way.

Electronic collars

The old type of e-collar delivered a painful jolt to your dog and this is still often the case with cheaper versions. Newer, more expensive types deliver a 'stim' as well as using sound and vibration. Owners should always be taught how to use these devices correctly and dogs need to be properly conditioned and trained to wear them. Poor training and lack of conditioning can lead to emotionally, mentally and physically damaged dogs, resulting in fear, anxiety and/or aggression.

Ultrasonic Devices

Ultrasonic bark deterrent devices work by emitting an ultrasonic sound that dogs find unpleasant, which startles them out of barking. Reviews of ultrasonic anti-bark devices are mixed; some dogs don’t respond to them, and others are too sensitive for what is essentially a correction. But for some dogs, these are effective.

Citronella Collar

Promoted as a humane alternative to shock/stim collars, the citronella spray bark collar utilises a burst of citronella spray to eliminate excessive barking. Dogs generally don’t like the taste or smell of citronella, and the 'Shhh' sound can startle them into reducing or stopping their barking.

My opinion is that these collars are anything but a humane alternative to anything. They are cruel; the smell and taste of citronella can last for hours upon hours, as it sticks to the dog. A concentrated burst of citronella to dogs who are averse to it can be mentally damaging. This turns the collar from a correction device to a cruel punishment that can last for days. I would never recommend such a device.

Stress-reducing Collars

Stress-reducing collars are laden with dog-calming pheromones, which may help to calm stressed dogs thereby reducing anxious barking. Reviews are mixed, with some dogs not responding at all, while for others, these collars are effective.

ThunderShirt

The ThunderShirt Anxiety Jacket has been found to be very effective for some dogs, but not for others. It is promoted as being helpful to dogs suffering from anxiety, over-stimulation, compulsive barking and fear and anxiety caused by loud noises such as fireworks and thunderstorms. The shirt works by applying gentle, constant pressure to calm your anxious, fearful or over-excited dog.

You can make your own version of the Thundershirt using a human bandage. A search on Google will show you how to do this.

The Thundershirt has mixed reviews; some people swear it is an instant fix, while others have little to no luck. My only advice would be to ensure that your dog does not overheat from any covering you put on them, and that your dog is never left unsupervised while wearing a Thundershirt or similar.

Noisemakers/Water Sprayers

There are other devices on the market that you could try if barking is occurring in a clearly defined area. One option is noisemakers which emit an annoying sound when they detect a dog barking. Another option is bark-activated water sprayers which will spray your dog with water when they detect your dog barking.

These tools also have mixed reviews. I would never recommend any of these, and would suggest that if you were to use something like this, that you ensure you never use them when the dog is home alone.

Train Your Dog

No matter what tools you decide to use to reduce/stop your dog's unwanted barking, training will make them more effective. A few key commands that will help include:

Focus – this technique teaches your dog to focus on you, and will eventually see bark triggers reduced to 'white noise'. This means that your dog will learn to ignore these triggers, even when you are not present.

Recall – you can use this technique to teach your dog to ignore barking triggers. When your dog ignores the trigger, and comes to you – JACKPOT – lots of praise and treats.

Speak – teaching your dog to bark on command can help them not to bark at other times. Once your dog knows this command, and is doing it 100% of the time, you can teach them to stop by using the 'Quiet' command and hand signal. If you practice these commands when your dog is calm, they will learn to stop barking on command.

Quiet – this command will teach your dog to calm on cue. You can do this by using a calm but firm voice to say 'Quiet', while holding a finger to your lips when your dog is barking. When they stop, no matter how brief the break, praise and treat. Make sure you never treat your dog while they are barking. Eventually your dog will work out they are being treated for stopping barking when you say 'Quiet' or perform the hand signal, and will begin to respond faster.

Sit with auto-stay – having your dog sit in a stay when someone comes to the door ensures your dog won't rush forward. Having the dog tethered or on a lead ensures you can maintain control and correct/guide your dog as necessary.

Calm – these techniques teach your dog to remain calm in the face of distractions, and are immensely useful in all situations.

Noise desensitisation – by desensitising your dog to bark triggers, you will teach your dog to stop responding.

Patience and consistency are essential when training your dog to stop unwanted barking. It may take some time but it will be worth it in the long run.

Don'ts

Don't encourage your dog to bark at specific noises and not at others; consistency is key.

Don't use muzzles or other restraints to keep your dog quiet.

Don't punish/correct your dog for any behaviour that arises out of fear or anxiety. If you do this, you risk creating an aggressive dog.

Don't punish/correct aggressive behaviours. Aggression breeds aggression. Even if this tactic seems to work initially, there is a high-level of risk it will eventually backfire.

Don't ever correct your dog 'after the fact'. They will have no idea what they are being corrected for. Correcting your dog 'after the fact' becomes punishment. Punishment results in your dog feeling anxious and fearful. An anxious and/or fearful dog is an aggressive dog in waiting. For free training videos & advice come see us at:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCR1L47VjjZKeH1AArpe9VDw

https://www.facebook.com/groups/Outbackdogtraining/