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(via What should the Groom Wear: Tuxedo, Lounge, Morning or Nehru Suit? | Parisian Gentleman)

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In case you missed this before.

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How to Identify a Glen Check Within Seconds | Parisian Gentleman

If you are a devotee to men’s style, then you’re already familiar with glen check fabric–otherwise known as the Glenurquhart Estate Check (not to mention the “Prince of Wales” which we’ll discuss later).

Don’t feel bad if you don’t know the identifying elements of a glen check fabric pattern. Even trusty members of the men’s style crowd may not know how to precisely identify the pattern –which may be the most common checked pattern for suits.

The glen check has been confused with houndstooth and other general checks and plaids. Although many refer to the pattern as glen plaid (which has become an accepted term to define the pattern, simply because of frequency of use) it is registered in the Scottish Register of Tartans as glen check.

If you take a minute to memorize the glen check design, you’ll be able to easily to recognize the pattern within seconds!

Here are three quick ways to identify the pattern:

You may not know that the city of Vienna, Austria, holds a strong position in the world of European menswear with a vigor of artisanship which gives a wink to the French and Northern Italian style. As the capital of the Republic of Austria, there are about 1.9 million people living in 23 districts in the city. If you’re from London or Paris, close to 2 million people may not sound extraordinary, but Vienna holds more than a fifth of …

A massive work on the sartorial offerings of Vienna by Bernhard Roetzel

parisiangentleman

12 Commandments for Organizing Your Closet

Why organize your closet?

If may seem like a superficial goal, but it’s really about preserving your investment and lifting your mood. If you know what’s “ready to be worn”, it’s easier to prepare for the day, but if you have to seek-and-find, it can be exhausting. Organizing is also also about mastering “aesthetics” through the ability to view your wardrobe at a glance.

ARE YOU ORGANIZED?

Some of us are more challenged than others when it comes to being organized.

Emma Thompson, in The Sense and Sensibility Screenplay Diaries, once said “Got up this morning and could not find my glasses. Finally had to seek assistance. Kate [Winslet] found them inside a flower arrangement.”

I can tell the same story as Emma Thompson, although with a different result, as my Maison Bonnet glasses were eventually found in the freezer.

I’ve come to understand that being organized is more about “caring” than about being an obsessive bore who approaches organization with the same approach as using a soulless spreadsheet.

Author Victoria Kahler expressed the purpose of organization in an anecdote from her novel “Their Friend Scarlet”:

“When everything was laid out before her, she felt safe, loved even. She was always trying to be more organized than she was. She knew it was weird and blamed her mother, with the lists and notes she’d leave whenever she and Dad went out of town. The labeled dinners in the freezer and the 20 emergency numbers on the phone showed she cared, even when absent, she cared.”

Caring for our clothes and being able to quickly find what we want to wear can clear the mind for other purposes. Efforts used to locate a lost sock or spot-clean a forgotten dirty shirt may not seem like a big deal, but at some point such experiences deplete our energy.

If you like good clothing and are ready to stop making excuses for being disorganized–getting your closet in order will allow you to enjoy your clothing investment. Remember, the absence of organization can eventually become maddening and cause a trap in cerebral thought and inaction, creating irritability and restlessness.

A warning though : obsessive organizational maniacs are more tiring than feeling disorganized. The act of order should bring joy and calmness to life, while the spirit of ‘nit picking, judgmental finger-pointing, and a know-it-all attitude’ destroys a sense of peacefulness.

G. Bruce Boyer is one of the greatest men's style authorities alive. Today we have the good fortune to publish a work entitled 'My Life as a Style Writer' by G. Bruce Boyer himself. Run (don't walk) to read these words. If you're like us, you'll find yourself returning again and again to the text, to absorb a vital portion of contemporary menswear history that may not be recorded anywhere else in its entirety, as is done in the following

Perhaps the most comprehensive write up on the life of G. Bruce Boyer, by the man himself.

#parisian gentleman #bruce boyer

parisiangentleman

Quoi de neuf chez les bottiers ? | Parisian Gentleman

For Direct Sale : Thirty 12-Fold Neckties with a New “Dimensional Printing Method” A Direct Sale of Limited-Edition Ties by Premiere Italian Maker “Calabrese”

The following artisanal ties and pocket squares are from one of the premiere tie makers in Italy : Calabrese of Naples, who is crafting and selling a special-edition collection made and sold directly from the Calabrese atelier.

For this first collaboration, Calabrese has raised the bar to present a very limited number of luxurious neckties and silk accessories: specifically, seven models of designer ties, with the highlight being a very small batch of three 12-fold ties which are highly specific in terms of construction and design.

Update : less than 12 hours into the direct sale and Calabrese reports the 12-folds (only 30 total) are really moving!

To place an order write directly to [email protected]

LAST UPDATE BY CALABRESE

AFTER Three Days, Calabrese informs us that all 12 Folds (model 1, 2 & 3) are SOLD OUT.

What remains :

Model Six : 1 final tie remains

Model Seven : 3 ties remain

Model Four and Five : 7 ties remain until the entire “special edition” is sold out.

#12 fold tie #Extreme crafting #Calabrese

Truth and Popularity : A Real Life 'Black Mirror' Show? On CNBC 'Squak Box', last month, venture capitalist and former AOL and Facebook executive Chamath Palihapitiya said : 'I think the tools that have been created today are starting to erode the fabric of how society works. Today we live in a world where it is easy to confuse truth and popularity, and you can use money to amplify whatever you believe, and get people to believe that what is popular

#PittiUomo93 #pittiuomoreport #pitti93

johnslamson

MADE TO ORDER BALMORAL BOOTS BY CAULAINCOURT PARIS

My latest article for Parisian Gentleman

Unlike other elements in menswear, shoes are not a mere accessory. You actually need good shoes, quality support for your feet throughout the day, which explains why shoes have always been an investment and not just a fancy ornament. Technical and aesthetic creativity in boot-making have reached an impressive level, strangely contrasting with the abundance of badly made industrial shoes with glued soles and mediocre materials. As in many aspects of contemporary menswear, for smaller companies, economic survival resides in top-notch quality.

Keep reading

Today we welcome as a contributing editor, Bernhard Roetzel, acclaimed author of several volumes on men's elegance including the seminal Gentleman, A Timeless Guide to Fashion, first published in German by Koenemann in 1999. The original version of the book has since been translated into 19 languages. Along with Alan Flusser, Mr. Roetzel is considered a pioneer in the discourse of classic men's style. We are pleased to present An Essay on Bespoke, by Bernhard Roetzel, published for the first time in these

Now a Parisian Gentleman Contributing Editor!

Read his first article here, entitled “An Essay on Bespoke”.

#Parisian Gentleman #Bernhard Roetzel

parisiangentleman

Pitti 89 day 3

Norwegian tailor T Michael & Parisian Gentleman UK Editor Sonya Glyn Nicholson

Classic English Tailoring Defined in Two Minutes.

From an experimental website, Iconicallyrare, engaging both men and women in the world of artisans.

#English Tailoring #English suit cut #Parisian Gentleman #iconicallyrare

parisiangentleman

Instagram journeys from parisian_gentleman and sonyaglyn for fellow-grammers (Hugo and Sonya pictured here at A. Caraceni in Milan).

parisiangentleman

A COMPREHENSIVE REVIEW OF WRITING INSTRUMENTS (PENS) PARISIAN GENTLEMAN

by Dr. John Slamson

Listed in alphabetical order :

1. AURORA

Although sometimes prone to exaggerated taste, Aurora is a historical brand (1919) whose productions are technically perfect but sometimes too flashy and colourful. The many special editions feature sculptures that may prevent using the pen itself easily. Their bold attempts sometimes overdo it in a gaudy way (the Ipsilon Quadra Gold with its gold cap is slightly over the top!).

There are also excellent models such as the Talentum Rubber (see above) and the TU, an impressive pen in a modern-classic vein. The 365 in colored resin (see below) is in the fine spirit of the 1930s’.

A brand focusing on luxury collection.

2. CARAN D’ACHE*

The venerable Swiss make Caran d’Ache (1924), who invented the mechanical « fix pencil » in 1931, presents an impeccable collection.

The luxurious materials and the precision of the manufacturing are truly magisterial even if the overall style is somewhat low-key. Those pens are fundamentally sober as they have a silver base with various guilloché-work. It is not actually silver, mind you, but platinum coating (12 microns, a truly exceptional level).

But their style seems to be evolving thanks to coloured lacquers, manually polished, with the RNX.316 PVD, a ‘technological’ pen with a black nib (PVD coating, an innovating closing and filling system and an excellent steel nib). The initials above the cap have been changed to a nut-shape logo with a dot.

The octagonal Ecridor is a fine starting point but the most beautiful model is undoubtedly the new version of the Léman, the Big Blue, whose blue guillochébody is covered with a transparent lacquer and has just been elected pen of the year by the renowned Le Stylographe magazine. Massive and translucent, its flow is phenomenal, like the superbly fluid Madison and Varius models (the Varius is a very comfortable pen even with an extra-fine nib).

Each model has its own original nib, each with an impressive flow, which immensely enhances the writing pleasure.

The technical quality of Caran d’Ache is akin to a watchmaker’s exacting approach—a Leman ballpoint requires five persons working on it full time for a week to be completed. Golden finishing is always gold. The closing mechanisms are also remarkably efficient.

An extremely reliable brand.

3. CONKLIN

A formerly famous brand, Conklin (1898) invented the crescent filler (the crescent was the back of a coin that pressed on the internal sack to suck in the ink), but folded in 1955 before its rebirth in 2000.

The brand now belongs to the Yafa group and produces instruments in the vintage spirit (flat top, marbled celluloid) but the nibs seem common at an entry level.

Some visually satisfying models.

A website dedicated to women’s tailoring : iconicallyrare .

An experiment for the moment to see where it leads.

EDIT : We will be introducing in 2018 under a new title !

#womenstailoring #parisiangentleman

parisiangentleman

Noble Shirt Fabrics : Three Makers You Must Know (MAROL Academy #2) | Parisian Gentleman

The world of fashion can, at times, seem too overwhelming to comprehend.

To put a finger on the pulse of the luxury fashion market, a recent Business of Fashion’s State of Fashion report summed the current state of affairs:

Fashion is one of the world’s most important industries, driving a significant part of the global economy. In 2016, the industry is projected to reach a staggering $2.4 trillion in total value.

If it were ranked alongside individual countries’ GDP, the global fashion industry would represent the world’s seventh largest economy. And yet, for some observers, fashion is still regarded as simultaneously frivolous and indulgent; and many of the sources of information about the industry are fragmented, incomplete, or unreliable.

~Imran Amed and Achim Berg, BOF ‘State of Fashion Report’ 2017

Even if the luxury market is thriving, it’s not clear how many consumers are educated about what they buy and how many consumers simply buy on impulse.

Attitudes play a role in buying behaviors, as the above report points out that some consumers view the market as ‘frivolous and indulgent’, while others view investing in fashion as viable.

Ponder with us as we peek into the world of buying behaviors of luxury goods like noble fabrics. Or, for immediate information about Three Shirting Makers to Know, skip directly to the interview section below.

— — —

LUXURY SHIRTING (FABRIC) : WHAT MAKES IT SPECIAL?

Shirting : a material for making shirts, especially a fine cotton in plain colours or incorporating a traditional woven stripe.

If you’ve never worn noble shirting, you may feel curious about what it’s like to experience such fabric.

To clarify, the term ‘shirting’ and ‘shirt fabric’ mean exactly same thing (on the other hand, shirting and shirt-making are completely different–the former refers to only fabric and the later refers to building a shirt).

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Carla Riva… Alumo… Grandi & Rubinelli?

How much do you really know about these shirt fabric makers?

For around two years, Instagram has become one of the social media platforms of reference for many sectors, and in particular for ours. Every week, a multitude of Instagram accounts are born and bloggers without blogs (i.e., people who have never written a line on classical masculine elegance) self-proclaim themselves as #publicfigures, #influencers or even 'ambassadors of luxury brands', with perplexingly unrealistic numbers of followers. Some, in order to seduce advertisers whom are more and more hypnotized by the phenomenon,

#Instagram followers #parisiangentleman #men's style

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