Copper acetate formed on the battery iv made from the first project. You know what that means. Time for a bon fire
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Copper acetate formed on the battery iv made from the first project. You know what that means. Time for a bon fire
1 USB powered mini A/C
2 This project is an USB powered mini A/C. The materials I used are two microfans, shoe box and one switch. It only took like 20 minutes to put it all together. This project will show that I can connect wires carefully to a switch and that I can follow instructions by watching the video.
3 I chose this project because my room doesn't have A/C and it gets really hot during the summer. This mini A/C won't cool my whole room but, it could cool myself down.
4 My project is a version of USB powered A/C from HouseholdHacker Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJPd2x9CJ0Y
Power supply: 5V from a USB port
Notes: I acquired the two microfans from the professor, the switch i got from radio shack it cost me like $4. At first the two fans wouldn't spin because I connected the wires the wrong way but than i fixed it and it work just like the one in the video. what i would do differently is that probably I would use much bigger fans so it could blow more air and could cool a whole room down. "Very Important to Remember" is Ohms Law V=IR. V= volts, I=current, R=resistance V= measured in volts, I= measured in amps, R= measured in ohms
I wanted to build a talking boobytrap to keep my sister from just going into my room and taking my stuff like it belonged to her.
It's supposed to look like this. But the wires connected to the play button kept snapping off. It took me an hour to connect them but they snapped off again. The connectors to play the recording were just too small to solder on the wires.
The parts included:
• 1 9V recording module (bought at Radio Shack) • 1 9-volt battery • 1 Rubber band • 1 Clothespin • Aluminum foil • Wire • 1 Plastic cap from 1 gallon milk jug • Soldering iron • Electrical tape
Final configuration complete, I present the SPY-6 Multicopter.
I chose to do the "Drawdio" musical pencil.
I knew i wanted to do this after we saw it in class, some of my friends are musicians and i thought this would be a fun thing for them to use.
The resistors in the circuit are used to control the voltage and bring it down to safe levels for the other components. the Capacitors are there to make the flow more constant and to stop fluctuation in the circuit.
Notes from the build: It took me about 3 hours of hopping around from Radio-shack to Fry's and more Radio-shacks just to find the parts. I didnt have the 570pf capacitor until i went to Apex electronics, everywhere else i went the looked at me like i was crazy for asking for that specific one. it took about 1 hour to put it together only to realized that I had screwed something up so i have to pull it apart and start all over again. this time i got it working and its a fun little toy to play around with.
The parts it included:
-Electrical tape
-Perfboard
-0.1 uF ceramic disk capacitor
-Battery, AAA (2)
-TLC555/TLC555CP LinCMOS timer (8-pin DIP)
-Thumbtack, flat, metal
-PNP amplifying transistor
-Battery holder, 2 x AAA
-Resistors 1/4W - 10M, 270K, 10K, 10 Ohm
-8 ohm mini speaker
-Double-sided foam tape
-Hookup wire, 22AWG solid
-100µF 35V 20% radial-lead electrolytic capacitor
-Pencil, flat with soft lead
-560 pF disc capacitor
SPY-6
Special Purpose Y-6Multicopter
Electronics Final Project
My final project is also a personal project. I close to build a fully custom Multicopter from the ground up. As I am enrolled in both Electronics and Engineering courses, this could be a direct reflection of my course work. Granting me a much better understanding of the topics discussed and solidifying hand skills such as soldering. Also using programmable micro controllers called the Multiwii, an Arduino type board to control flight and read the on board sensors.
This Multicopter will be used in more ways than one. First it will be my training/ test vehicle, as I intend on becoming certified with the FAA. They can grant me an airworthiness license that lets me potentially start a business with these multicopters. This will allow me to charge for services such as surveillance, areal site inspections, and many more. As my family runs a legal videography company, this could be implemented very easily as a new service provided.
The Multiwii platform is a truly an amazing piece electronics. I've learned a lot in the last week of development in my Multicopter and through several painful hours finally made progress my Flight board is programmed with Y6 firmware, this means that I’ll be running six motors and is reading the accelerometer and GPS currently installed. Actually the accelerometer is a pre-installed piece of the board and the GPS is a separate unit. But both need to be configured before they can send and receive information.
The flight controller I am using, which is a Multiwii lite version 2.0, and has a variety of various open ports. Some of these include one single FTDI port, I2c level converter, and TTL port, commonly used for GPS Bluetooth and telemetry. Unfortunately my I2C port will be used by my barometer, which is in route to me via eBay shipped from China. I've had to make some modifications to my flight control board to ensure that my I2C GPS navigation module works alongside the other components I have installed. This is where the lessons from electronics really make a difference. This ensures that I’m able to use a single port for dual function. I accomplished this by soldering thin 26GA wires from the GPS nav module on to the flight control board directly. These wires were solder directly onto the SDA and SLC inputs or resistor converters something like that which grants me direct access to the i2c feed, also it's called i2c logic level converter. What does this grant me? The ability to use the GPS and I2C nav module . The Multiwii Lite only has one I2C port as I’ve said earlier and through this modification I have created basically two i2c ports on my Multiwii flight controller.
This Multicopter project is a mirror image of the classes that I'm taking at PCC. Through my engineering course I've developed skills in a software platform called SolidWorks 3D. In using this program I have designed a frame and motor mount for my multirotor aerial vehicle. My projected dimensions will be 630 millimeters from motor to motor, and is considered a Class D unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) according to the FAA. I have retrofitted a pair of retracts, from a rather large model airplane. This is the retractable landing gear, and those were obtained from a surplus store for 1/3 their original cost. But in reality, this project has cost me a lot more than I originally expected.
The first electronics class addition to my Multicopter was in the power distribution board. I tried to run to 12 volt battery life first of all and listening to it to other people and their projects project tricot is I've heard the flight time is one of the biggest issues. And one thing that I want more than anything is extended find time so there's a simple solution to that. The first thing I did was in the power distribution board instead of running just one battery I can run two. This is accomplished by wiring the batteries in parallel to the distribution board. This allows me to maintain the same voltage through both batteries of 11.8 VOLTS, but double the amp hours of life, with 4200mah a piece this should give me 8400 Mila and hours of battery life. As this isn’t a perfect world I most likely won't get the full double hours but will get over 3/4 of it and will it extended my life my flight time up to 8 minutes the drawback. But there is a drawback, and that is with running two batteries in parallel you are not doubling the weight of your batteries you're doubling the battery weight on your multicopter. This lowers the overall flight ability of your aerial vehicle as you become a little slower and you also have to eliminate other components to make sure that you can get off the ground.
Although I'm not completely finished with my Y6 Multicopter, most of the electronics portion is complete. Due to my inexperience, I have had to reorder, send back, or at orders to insure that this project is completed. I have minimized the wires on board by connecting the sixth yes he's directly to the soccer on pad distribution bored. This saved me about 9 feet of 12 gauge power wire and about 36 brass bullet connectors. These parts were needed elsewhere as I refuse to spend any more money on this project I have already gone over budget by about 300 dollars. I will complete what I have named spy 6 and hopefully within the first week of May.
As this is my first big project where I had a design, construct, and program something completely from the ground up. This was in only could be accomplished with what I've learned this semester at Pasadena city college. From frame design and multicopter layout using SolidWorks 3D from engineering class, to all the electronics, soldering, Arduino programming from the electronics course. These skills I have attained have put me through what I knew nothing about 4 months ago. Hand skills like soldering have greatly increased, giving me the confidence to tackle any new project like this with minimal mistakes this project alongside my classes has really helps solidify a certain subjects that were fuzzy before. I highly recommend anyone pursuing electronics or engineering to do something like this to help them understand the information being taught.
Electronics Part List
1x Multiwii ZMR light flight controller board
1x Power distribution board(Solder on)
1x RX1008 receiver I2C navigation module
1x UBlox Cirus neo-6m GPS antenna
1x external barometer -BMP 6085
1x Devo 10 transmitter / controller
6x ESC electronic speed control
6x sunny sky black brushless motors
20 feet of 12 gauge power wire
50x Bullet quick connectors
2x small voltmeter / display for battery monitoring
1x 5.8g hurts FPV video transmitter parentheses GoPro close parentheses
2 feet of various size / color heat shrink
This is a short and modified parts list as these are all the electronics related parts. A more complete parts list can be found in my journal excerpt’s.
My Contact Mic
Project Name:
Contact Microphone
What is this project:
This project is a Pre-amplifier Circuit. This Contact Microphone is designed to pick-up audio vibrations through solid objects.
Why this project:
I am a sound engineer and am interested in audio electronics and wish to learn more about this subject.
Project Source:
DIY Contact Mic - Make
Video: youtube/aOJuCYgmPPE
My schematic: See Above
10uf & 4.7uf – acts as a filter
Mph102 – amplifies
3.3M, 560, 220k,1.5k resistors – all act as amperage controls
Female 1/4 inch – acts as a way for the audio to get out of the circuit
Piezo disk – acts as a transducer converting vibration into an electrical signal.
9volt battery – power source
Notes from my Build:
I unfortunately had to visit a variety of electronic store to purchase the parts for this circuit, which costs about $90.00 to make this entire circuit. I went to OrVac Electronics, JD Audio Visual, Radio Shack, & Frys Electronics.
If would I were to do this project again, I would use bigger capacitor. Bigger capacitor would filter out the buzzing noise I experienced in this circuit. I would also add a potentiometer as a volume knob and an off switch for my battery.
could not post audio will send 2 post
Homopolar motor 10 awg copper solid with out insulation Made a couple turns around the batt into it fell off the point Resistance was .0001ohms Used a 2 magnets Tony
The LED strip I got was a cheapo. The colors were seaparte and didn't mix too well. I had more luck with the laptop controlling values than k did with my android which was waaayyyy delayed and gave incorrect colors most of the time. I liked this project because I never used the android to control arduinos before. And I wish I went with something else where I had to come up with values rather than just fallow the make magazine tutorial. Now im gonna reuse those strips to line the glass at my work. I also found a lot of codes (for the laptop) to make the strips "dance" or flash. Pretty cool community. And I found out I cant upload pictures and video to tumblr at the same time. So stay tuned for videos. And I found an old LED strip controller that I also messed around with
Cool!! Maybe ill try and rebuild this ol relic
555 Timer Examples
In addition to the examples in Play List 8
http://www.instructables.com/id/555-Timer-LED-Flasher/
http://www.dummies.com/DummiesArticle/Electronics-Projects-How-to-Make-an-LED-Flasher-Using-a-Timer-Chip.id-309311,navId-810974.html
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_8/1.html
Sample Final Project Report
PICTURE(s):
more on Flickr
Project Name: LED night-time project light
What is this project:
This project is a USB powered LED with a diesel punk design. The LED lights up when the device is inserted into a USB port. There is no other switch. This project will show off my soldering and LED skills. Using an USB port as a power supply will test my ability to make a current limited project so I don't hurt my computer. I will have to use Ohm's law to calculate the value of a resistor.
Why this project:
I share a room and sometimes I need to keep working after my roommate goes to bed. This project's LED casts a soft glow that I can point wherever I need.
Project Source:
My project is a version of Dieselpunk USB Lamp from Instructables.
Video: youtube.com/fakeURL (if available)
Instructions: http://www.instructables.com/id/Dieselpunk-USB-Lamp/
My schematic:
(List each part and what it is doing in the circuit)
LED1: Creates light. A white 3.0-3.4VDC Forward Voltage LED with a 20mA Forward Current (SparkFun)
R1: Voltage drop/current limiting. I needed a 2.0V voltage drop at 20mA (from the LED datasheet). I used Ohms law (V = IR) to calculate that I need to use a 100 Ohm resistor at least. I used a 470 Ohm resistor because I will be using this LED in the very dark powered by the port on laptop. Keeping the current draw at down to 10 mA will keep my battery life longer.
Power Supply: 5V ± 0.25V DC from a USB 2.0 port. The load will be kept below 100mA for maximum compliance (USB Spec, directions for designing a USB device)
Notes from my Build:
(Where you got your stuff. Things that went wrong, things that you would do differently)
I hacked a metal necked USB light that I found in a pile of eWaste with parts that I had around the house.
If you decide to make your own version of this instructable, please note two important missing pieces: any mention of a current limiting resistor or a link to how to solder wires together.
It is tiny, but you can see a resistor soldered to the lead wire of the LED in the Instructable. I would have liked the writer to call that out as important. I know the original current limiting resistor in my hacked object came out in the dismantle.
If I was doing this project again I would try to figure out a way to add a potentiometer so I could change the brightness of the LED, or a switch so I could turn it off without having to unplug my light all the time.
If you would like to know more about my build you can go to the write up on the CRASH Space blog.
is it possible we can barrow the arduino and bread board?
I wanna add something from my chemistry side to this. maybe run a ton of current through the magnesium strip to set it aglow then burn a plastic container to drop the sodium metal into water and that would tip over the potassium iodide into the hydrogen peroxide to foam everything up. Oh and the water has glycerin in it to make it fog up when the sodium metal hits it. Im not crazy!! My mother had me tested!!!
I wanna take it apart