“BLACKMERLE” - Sitting down With Queen’s Grad Terry Shin
BLACKMERLE [blăk-mûrl] noun. - A black coated dog with irregular streaks and speckles of black.
www.blackmerle.com | @blackmerle | @iamblackmerle | www.blackmerle.com/shop
(Full Interview, Visuals after article)
Queen’s graduate, Terry Shin, was interested in fashion from a young age. Classic streetwear labels like Billionaire Boys Club, Stüssy, Bape had peaked his interest, and discovering Japanese streetwear labels such as Number (N)ine, Undercover, and Hare, initiated his journey into the fashion world. He ventured further; exploring classic menswear styles while at Queen’s and eventually working his way into perfecting the high-end avant-garde styles of Boris Bidjan Saberi, Julius, and Rick Owens – the advancement of menswear today.
“I started gathering ideas and themes since the early summer of 2014. Sampling took months after months because I kept on switching materials, dimensions, designs around.”
He has continued further after graduating from Queen’s Life Sciences program in 2014 by designing an extremely meticulous collection entitled “BLACKMERLE”.
“The collection was based around the idea of simplicity that can be infinitely complex.”
Terry’s brand is a solemn, minimal, and monochrome collection composed of both Raw Cut Short and Long Sleeve Tops, Tailored Drop Crotch Cargo Shorts, Side Lampo Zip Hoodies, and 2-way Lampo Zip Bomber Jackets. All of the pieces are handcrafted with an unmatched attention to detail using only the highest quality of materials and components.
“I spent countless hours sourcing fabrics and comparing them to see what worked and what didn’t. Each piece was sampled and altered multiple times to achieve the best fit and the proportion. I took my time to not allow even the smallest details to be left unpolished.”
The design process Terry took was not a brief road – over five months of sketching, experimenting, and improving the cuts and fits of each piece until all were impeccable in quality and aesthetic. He went on to direct look-books, editorials, videos, develop a top-notch website, as well as complete various business aspects of the launch, which was August 31st, 2015. Each piece is cut and sewn from raw fabric until the piece is perfect. Terry is an extremely dedicated mind in all aspects of life, as he completed the full process of BLACKMERLE while preparing for and currently attending post-graduate studies for Management at the University of British Columbia.
The full collection can be ordered at www.blackmerle.com/shop with worldwide shipping and excellent price points. Check out our full interview with Terry below:
1. Tell us about BLACKMERLE’s debut collection; are there any themes or inspirations behind the pieces?
The first capsule collection, “BLKMRL”, consists of 5 unique custom cut pieces that come in either black or white. The collection was based around the idea of simplicity that can be infinitely complex.
2. How would you describe your BLACKMERLE designs?
BLACKMERLE integrates minimal grunge look with complex and utilizable details. Engineered seam works and custom cut patterns contribute to its superior and unique fit.
3. What went into deciding the materials and construction of your garments?
I spent countless hours sourcing fabrics and comparing them to see what worked and what didn’t. A LOT of elements were taken into account in selecting the right materials, not just for the garment itself, but also for the perfect harmony and balance with other garments in the collection. I am a very meticulous person. Each pieces were sampled and altered multiple times to achieve the best fit and the proportion. I took my time to not allow even the smallest details to be left unpolished.
4. What was the timeline like in the creation of your label?
I started gathering ideas and themes since the early summer of 2014. Sampling took months after months because I kept on switching materials, dimensions, designs around. Went through a lot of change and finally went into production. I barely did anything but worked on the brand for a long f-ing time and I enjoyed every bit of the process.
5. Did attending Queen’s help drive the execution your collection?
Even though I majored in a completely different field, I still believe that my science background helped shaping myself into an analytic and detail-oriented person.
6. Do you have any words of advice for those looking to create their own label?
Be meticulous and RECORD EVERYTHING. Set up a strong foundation of concept and theme first. Lastly, do not rush and sample many many times because you will always want to modify details and you will never be 100% satisfied.
(Visuals supplied by BLACKMERLE)
(Edited - Bradley Dobson)
annaxmalina
stormborns
izzy806
jbbartram-illu
origamiaround
kianamaiart
snowghoul
