World - famous Designs, Then compared to. Nowadays (Hollywood's Menswear Heritage)
Let's look at how men's style andstyle icons improved with time, and what impact film celebrities had on traditional menswear, and if that impact is as durable as it was previously. Before we compare the movie stars of days gone by to the men on the red carpet these days and how it is they impact classic style, let's go to a periodwhen the silver screen wasn't even imaginable. While there's the popular quote, "clothes maketh the man," there are certainly a few individuals that actually got people talking about clothes in the first place. Throughout most of history, fashion was defined by monarchs and aristocrats.
They governed the land, set the trends, and paid handsomely for their clothes. Unless, of course, they stiffed their tailors. Today, needless to say, we have famous people who fixed the style trends. But, back then, from ancient history until the era of film, the ruling class influenced style just like famous individuals do so today.
The people in church back then would even go so far as to use the legal systems to create hierarchies that kept everyone in their place.
That, of course, also extended to fashion and certain people could wear certain things and others couldn't. And by wearing one thing, you were communicating one point. And it had a hugely profound impact on society. For example, some Roman emperors would forbid their nonroyal subjects to wear the color purple under penalty of death.Talk about having a fashion police right there.
[ba dum tss] In many European countries, there were some sure laws not allowing certain people to wear things and others had been forced to use things. For example, a law from 1397 in Venice dictated that Jews had to wear yellow badges so they may be identified visually. Other people were not allowed to wear certain things.
For example, the so-called "Negro Act" from 1740, which was passed in the province of South Carolina, forbade slaves to dress above their status. It also prescribed certain fabrics that were only to be worn by slaves.
Around the same time, in 1746, the Act of Prescription was passed in the British Parliament. It forbade anyone in Scotland to wear a highland dress or tartan. Of course, the fact that it was forbidden was ingrained even more in Scottish culture. Without this act, chances are we wouldn't have the ability to enjoy tartans and highland dresses today. At one time, rich fabrics like silk or velvet or urban fur were reserved for the upper class of society.
Now, once nifty businessmen and members, who were not part of the aristocracy, found methods to also wear these expensive fabrics and furs, the upper class had to come up with something else to distinguish themselves from the non-blue-blooded counterparts. So, in the 19th century, the rich opulence that previously characterized the aristocracy now had to make way for much simpler clothing.
While that shift might appear like it was in line with the general ideas and principles of enlightenment, that wasn't quite true. Hierarchies weren't abolished, they just shifted toward rules of elegance. The guidelines on what towear and what never to wear were closely guardedamong the aristocracy.
And so, if you weren't part of that, you simply didn't know very well what made you part of the group. Rather than just displaying bold colors and rich fabrics, fit became much more important and the tiny details of correctness could decide about one's social fate.
Of course, the upper class kept the secrets of what to wear and what not to wear very close guarded. So,if you were an outsider, you remained an outsider. The whole shift in menswear culture toward more simplicity became really obvious when Beau Brummell entered into high society.
Even though many consider him to be the dandy par excellence today, he was, in fact, at the time, someone who had made menswear more muted and less colorful and flamboyant. He wore his coats with just a white shirt and tie and waistcoat, and it wasn't concerning the color anymore. It was all about how it has been worn and how the tie was tied and how long it took him to make it look that he actually didn't spend any time on it at all. This concept is now also known as "sprezzatura" and if you intend to learn more about it, we have an entire video about it here. As society moved away from feudalism and monarchies, towards a new vision of democracy, and things changed.
Now, entertainers had an increasingly bigger sway on what people on the streets would emulate. Also it didn't matter if they acquired a high pedigree or if they came from humble beginnings.Along with the cultural evolution, the views around consumerism and traditional style shifted once more.
James Dean, The Beatles, and Marlon Brando became cultural figures of the mainstream, and therefore, they influenced the contemporary style of their day. Fame, as we know it today, was born then.
These days people in the entertainment industry have full-time stylists, and something of them is Ashley Weston, which also has a Youtube channel. The cultural andmarket ways of how celebrities are portrayed, how they're marketed are usually somewhat different, but at the same time, you will discover similarities to how things were through the golden age of menswear in the 1930s. So, what was the style of famous men back then? Unlike musicians, businessmen, or statesmen before them, movie star actors were seen almost on a daily basis, be it on the big screen or in the newspapers. So, because these actors were seen more often, people just felt they knew them better and they became bigger stars.
Interestingly, the stars of the 20s such as for example Charlie Chaplin, Buster Keaton, or Fatty Arbuckle often dressed poorly on camera for a comedic effect.
Today, mocking homeless or poor people and their clothing choices on screen is not considered to be gentlemanly behavior, especially not whether it's done for entertainment purposes. On a side note, actors wear sunglasses in between takes to prevent their eyes from getting all that harsh light. Now, people caught on to that and started wearing sunglasses to add a touch of glamour to their own, sometimes not as glamorous, lives. Soon, identified men's figures, like Rudolph Valentino, would pop up playing heartthrobs and gaining mainstream acceptance and significance.
Rudolph was known for his rakish, rather flamboyant taste that had influences from Italy that was distinctly bolder than what most Americans were used to seeing at the time. He often wore his signature slick-backed hairstyle. You can see him wearing cufflinks, and rings with dark stones, and he would also not shy away fromwearing fur. Overall, his style was rakish through and through. Despite the fact that film was developing into a mainstream medium for entertainment, small studios like RKO or Warner Brothers had somewhat tight and limited budgets.
This often meant that especially male actors were expected to supply their own wardrobe, which was used for filming. And this just implies that the needs were a lot more simple at that time.
However, that also means that these actors actually had their own style. They would probably get custom clothing that fit them well and just spoke to their character. Now, this wasn't just true for C-list or B-list actors, but furthermore for the stars at enough time.
Humphrey Bogart, Clark Gable, Cary Grant, and Fred Astaire would often wear their very own clothing in contemporary productions. Obviously, one of the key differences was that actors were expected to build their own brand while on and off-camera. As such, one's style and the clothing one would wear became a big part of what an actor had to understand and master. So, even off the work, Clark Gable had been known for his formal wearand his double-breasted suits, as well asthree-piece single-breasted suits.
His clothes showcased all the hallmarks of 1930s style.
He had pants with big pleats that were full-cut and had cuffs or turnips. His jackets had a wider lapel with a lower gorge, sometimes patch pockets and he was definitely a fan of the drape cut. To learn more about that, check out this guide here. The jackets also had shoulder padding and some waist suppressions and he would always wear a tie and a pocket square. Cary Grant, who bought a large number of suits throughout his career, openly admitted that he didn't choose fashionable matches, but more middle-of-the-fashion stuff and he never considered himself to be well-dressed, while people looking back today think of him as this timeless style icon.
Choosing a lapel that was neither too slim nor too wide and being very much middle of fashion is probably the secret to why his stuff still looks wearable today and timeless. Here you can see him with a three-piece suit in mid-gray flannel with a darker overcoat and a white shirt, shoes, and hat.
Nothing special, nothing fancy, but just very classic. At the time also, many musicians transitioned into film via musicals because they were quite profitable. So, consequent singers like Bing Crosby, Frank Sinatra, or Louis Armstrong became a lot more popular and well-known.
In this photo here from Frank Sinatra in 1961, along with fellow Rat Packer Dean Martin,you can see elements of his signature style. It's a charcoal single-breasted three-piece suit with a five-button vest that's rather on the short side.
You can see the pants are cut high-waisted. He has a white shirt with an impeccable collar. He's wearing a tie and a pocket square, along with a hat.
Here you can see a dark straw short-brimmed trilby with a wide contrasting ribbon. To learn more about trilbys and hats, check out our playlist here. Note the pleats on his pants and the actual fact that he's wearing opera pumps. At the time, operapumps were popular for men for evening wear,however, not typically for regular suits.But, it was just a style that he liked and so he wore it.
So, if you think back about the well-dressed men from the 30s, 40s, and 50s, chances are you think about actors first and foremost. Not politicians, businessmen, or other important men at the time. Now, one could say, "Wow! That they had such great style,but compared to today, their clothingchoices were a lot more limited."As a man, you basically had to wear a suit.
There wasn't really a way around that.
Sure, you could try wearing jeans and a wife-beater, but that was socially less acceptable for their status and position. At the time, style moved much more slowly. Fashion had been well-curated and coordinated with manufacturers, and materials were a lot more expensive. So, people bought a lot less, less frequently.
But, spent more on individual garment. Fabrics are also heavier so they last longer.
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But, the finishing wasn't quite as refined since it is today. That being said, later on, actors like Marlon Brando or James Dean became well-known for their-suit, more casual looks. And also actors like Steve McQueen, who would sometimes wear suits, was also highly regarded for his more casual, rugged personal style.
To learn more about the style of Steve McQueen, have a look at this video here. Steve McQueen'sdesign wasn't complicated. Just look at this photo. He wore a set of khaki pants with somewhite socks and, a set of well-walked-inchukka boots.
His sweater was darker than his crew neck.
He had a lighter shirt and a coat. The only thing missing here is the traditional signature personal sunglasses, which you can learn more about in this video. So, what's the style of the people today? Hollywood is certainly part of the mainstream and pumps out much more films and movies than they used to. In addition, you have places like Amazon and Netflix that also produce a lot of stuff.
With big-budget Hollywood films, Amazon, and Netflix dominating the entertainment mainstream world, how come not more male actors are known for their style? Sure, they're actors like Tom Ford, Ryan Gosling, Jay-Z, Kanye West, George Clooney, and, needless to say, James Bond, Daniel Craig.
It is no longer necessary for an actor to really have this personal style and personal wardrobe. Just think about the Black Tie outfits on the red carpet at the Oscars and how many people fail. Oftentimes, they just wear whatever the stylist pushes because, maybe, it's part of the PR campaign.
Even low-budget productions today have enough money to pay for all the clothes of the individual character and, oftentimes, roles are much more varied and nuanced than they used to be. Most male celebrities today gain moreattention for their good looks or their level of fitness. Daniel Craig, Ryan Gosling, or Brad Pitt are more well-known for what they look like without a shirt on than with a suit.
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This current, sort of, obsession with fitness and looks wasn't as pronounced during the heyday of classic men clothing. Also, there's a much bigger emphasis on product placement these days because that may make a lot of money.
Just think of Daniel Craig'sfamous scene in one of the early Bond movies, where he corrects Vesper Lynd on the brand of his watch, Omega not Rolex. [Scene from Casino Royale] [Vesper Lind] Easy smiles and expensive viewes.Rolex? [James Bond] Omega. [Vesper Lynd] Beautiful The influence of streetwear, hype culture, and comfort has really changed just how status and wealth, and style are perceived in the general public eye today.
Old Hollywood may have been more interested to give that flair of upper class, but today, it's more about being bold andgetting true to yourself and just expressing yourself. Even some famous men look down on dressing up. Just think about Mark Cuban or Steve Jobs or Mark Zuckerberg, for example. Now, if you look at famous men today in the film industry that are hailed for their style, one of the first names that comes up is George Clooney [The suit-up scene from Batman & Robin] Frankly, in my own mind, he wears more of a uniform and he doesn't have a very interesting personal style.
Typically, he wears a suit that is neither too slim nor too wide with a shirt, without the neckwear, without any pocket square, and matching shoes in black.
Overall, an unexciting outfit. Nevertheless, most people in the mainstream would consider it to be a classic suit look that is timeless and stylish. It's a bit like the old Cary Grant approaching our era. But, because everything around us has changed, it is a lot less nuanced and more boring than it used to be. Now, an actor like Benedict Cumberbatch, however, has a a lot moredistinct personal style.
But, he's also British. You can learn more about him in our in-depth guide gentlemen of style here.
For example, here you can see him at Wimbledon wearing a green suit with rather slim lapels that suit his silhouette, a light blue shirt with a blue knit tie, brown derby shoes, and, of course, sunglasses, and a more relaxed haircut. Even though we appreciate stars who have a knack for classic style, there are other actors, likeMahershala Ali or Timothe Chalamet, who use suits in a different way. Mahershala Ali often likes a monochrome look.
I've seen him wearing tuxedos with a black shirt and a black tie, or he wears a navy suit with peak lapels that's double-breasted but with a turtleneck sweater, and then, maybe, some yellow sunglasses and shoes that are spectators and loafers, which is not something you would have traditionally worn with a double-breasted suit and, then, without socks or no-show socks.
He's not afraid to wear bolder colors such as burgundy suits, for example, with less contrasting shirts. Timothe Chalamet is known for his bold outfits. It can be a suit that's super trim cut with a bold flower print or something else that's just over the very end up beingst. So, the question becomes: "What has changed since then and now?
" In the beginning,it may seem that celebrities in the past were just themselves versus today it's all just about marketing. But, if you take a closer, look you see that, even in old Hollywood, they had their ways to protect the reputation of actors. Back then it was important for the studios that their contract actors and performers had a squeaky clean reputation because other things was bad for business. This aspect of Hollywood is pretty well-covered in the Coen Brothers' "Hail, Caesar!" [Scene from Hail, Caesar!
] It was so simple. [stuttering] Cut. Because of that, studios and record labels pay top dollar to make instances simply disappear.
Clark Gable and Mary Pickford are certainly the most infamous cases for that. Today, exposing scandals is just portion of the game of show business.
There's even a whole industry of bloggers and influencers who do nothing but highlighting those things. As a lover of classic style, it's much harder to find role models in Hollywood today. Fortunately, there are a lot of period productions that pay great attention to the clothing worn at the time. I'm sure many of us gonna do classicmenswear by watching Mad Men, Boardwalk Empire, Peaky Blinders, Downton Abbey, etc,or simply think about Kingsmen, for instance.
They created an entire range of clothing.
And even though we disagree with many details in the movie, it definitely helped to create an interest in mainstream men in classic men's clothing and that's a good thing. By the way, to learn more about Kingsmen and the details, check out these videos here. Now, another big difference between then and now is the fact that men are a lot more free to choose whatever they want when it comes to clopoint.
Back then, you could wear a suit, maybe a slightly different color, and your tie could maybe be different. But, today, it is possible to truly wear whatever you feel comfortable with and express yourself through your clothes.
We believe that's a good thing and with the internet, it is becoming easier than ever to find like-minded peers at another end of the world that you can nerd out with about the facts of your particular style interests. Within the last ten years, there's been an increasingly large number of influencers, Youtubers, and lately, TikTokers who help keep classic style alive. Maybe you're even watching one right now. And while you can't depfinish on Hollywood giving you great examples of classic style, you can bet we always will.