Unfortunately coletterie.com does not have a tumblr, but this image is so helpful I had to share.Ā So often people ask us what fabric they should use for a certain cosplay, and two things you should always ask yourself are: 1) how much does it need to flow, and 2) how heavy does it need to be.Ā Sheen and texture are obviously important as well, but picking a weight and stiffness is the first thing you should tackle.
From The Coletterieās awesome blog post:
When you choose a fabric for your sewing project, ask yourself these questions to decide on an appropriate weight:
Should my fabric be sheer or opaque?
Will a light fabric be difficult to sew for this project?
Will the fabric be sturdy enough to tolerate stress on the seams?
Will the heaviness of the fabric cause bulky seams?
And to decide on an appropriate amount of drape:
Will the fabric have enough drape to flow the way I want?
Will the fabric have enough stiffness to have the structure and crispness I want?
Selfie roundup from days 1, 2, and 3 of GenCon! This is the first time in a while that I've had a bunch of new cosplays for a con and it was a blast wearing these.
I cannot stress enough that all those things in sewing pattern instructions that seem pointless are actually very important
Yes, how you fold your fabric before putting down the pattern pieces and cutting matters, because it influences how the fabric drapes, and ignoring that can cause fit issues in ways you wouldn't expect
Yes, cutting an entire separate piece to sew to the edge to finish it is going to be better than turning the edge and stitching it on its own, because there are geometry issues in play that make it actually harder to just fold a curve to the inside.
Yes, cutting clips or notches into the seam allowance around curves should always be done, because those geometry issues will work on the seam allowances and keep the curve from laying flat (remember, clip when the curve goes in, notch when the curve goes out)
Yes, interfacing may seem completely superfluous and frustrating and an extra step to work with, but it adds rigidity and stability to areas that need it (especially under buttons)
Yes, using a fun quilting cotton print for lining looks nice, but the point of lining isn't to make the inside pretty as much as it is to make the inside slip smoothly over the layer under it, and quilting cotton is going to instead be prone to grabbing everything under it, so you really should use those annoyingly slippery lining fabrics
Yes, in general, you should use the kind of fabric the pattern tells you to use, because there have been centuries, if not millennia, of people throughout the entire world figuring out what fabric best suits what kind of garment, for reasons beyond aesthetics
I know that a lot of people new to sewing see these things and feel like they're things that just aren't necessary, because they skip them when they sew and the item ends up just fine. And if you don't mind the idea of your clothes looking homemade, then it is fine. But...if you're consistently skipping these things and end up unhappy with how homemade your items look, please consider that that result is at least partly because you're not following the entire directions
"Sewing" involves so much more than just the stitches
incredibly cursed that my brain works by trying to skip past all the boring parts of my current WIPs (hemming, finishing, making fiddly details) to begin planning my next WIP
I'm very happy with how my Githyanki artifact came out for my Shadowheart cosplay!
3D print files are from the Dangerous Ladies; printing was done by @vengeris, sanding, painting, and assembly was me.
Process photos below the cut!
I've only worked with PLA once before, so I wanted to be very careful with priming. I hit it with 2-3 coats of primer, then painted it with acrylics.
Finishing details on the faces were done with a brush pen, since I wanted finer control than you get with a paintbrush.
I may add in the spikes on the corners later, since the Dangerous Ladies didn't have them built in. This version is probably a lot easier to carry and store though so we'll see.
I get a lot of questions about material choices, so I thought it would be cool to do little overviews of my favorite materials! (since to be honest, i pretty much just rotate between 3-4 fabric types haha)
Starting with microsuede, my all time favorite and most used material choice. Microsuede is a faux suede made from lots of tiny polyester microfibers split and combined together. its similar in feel to natural suede but distinctly different in its overall fabric drape. It can sometimes have stretch, but usually its a non-stretch fabric. (also not to be confused with microfiber!! mircofiber fabric is similar but its much softer, its the material that cleaning wipes for glasses/screens are used of.)
Some of the advantages of microsuede is its a thick, sturdy fabric. Personally I find it a very friendly fabric due to its thickness and body. Its a great choice if you want something to have some heft to it and structural support. It presses well and can hold folds like the dickens. Its both easy to work with and easy to make a garment that looks nice out of imo. It comes in all kinds of weights from apparel to upholstery. I've personally never used heavy duty, true upholstery weight microsuede so I cant speak much to that, I tend to use microsuedes intended for apparel.
Another great advantage of microsuede is it has an inherent, mottled texture. this is great for making simpler, color blocked designs still have visual interest.
It also takes to adhesives well due to the fuzzier texture, meaning the glues can grisp with more surface area (you just might have to press it in a bit, its still a poly fabric so its not the easiest thing to get hot glue to stick to but by god it can be done).
But microsuede is not a one-size-fits-all fabric. One, the stiffness it has can be a downside if you want a more flowy drape, it would rather fold and crease than flow. Two, its a pain to paint or use HTV on, the fuzzy texture is a downside here. Three, It can also show needle holes if you have to seam rip depending on what you used. You can use a universal needle on microsuede dependings on the weight (I usually do). But its still a thick fabric so be sure not to use too thin of a needle, i also have luck using medium pressure and a walking foot. but all the same ive lost many a needle to microsuede via snapping.
Another thing is personally i find that due to its texture, it looks more homespun and rugged, as such I would hesitate to use it if i wanted a costume to look more regal or formal (i still used it on thistle though lol so its all about the particular use-case)
I source my microsuedes from Big Z primarily (like literally 90% of the time) but I also use fabric wholesale direct, and jo anns, who despite their markups does have some very nice quality suedes, i love their stretch suedes in particular.
I love microsuede. its probably my favorite fabric to use and I will even change my plans on a costume just to use it!
You've probably found your way here because you're thinking about making Dame Aylin! This pack includes the patterns for the helmet, torsopl
I finally got all my patterns for Aylin digitised! Please make sure you read the listing description before purchase so you know what youāre getting!
Are you a cosplayer? Are you painfully stubborn and tired of every video and tutorial out there about painting shoes telling you not to paint the rubber soles? Me too! So I did it anyway.
Here's a full break down of how I did it complete with suggested materials and pictures!
Apologies to those that use screen readers, Tumblr is NOT letting me add alt text on desktop, so I would greatly appreciate anyone who wants to add an image description in a reblog. I'll try to write one up and add it to the end of this post later, but you are free to beat me to it!
šøWant to do cosplay photoshoots but don't know how to find that perfect place to shoot? This tutorial covers how to brainstorm a location for your shoot, logistical and cost concerns with shoot locations, and how to actually find your dream location.
šøThis tutorial can be applied to shoots of all types, including but not limited to self shoots, shoots with friends, and shoots with hired photographers. Self shooting or shooting with friends only requires a camera (a phone works!) and possibly a tripod.
Part 1: Location Types
Coming up with the general type of location you want requires some brainstorming about what you want from the shoot. Think about your specific goals and types of photos you want and how certain types of locations would work for your goal. Remember you can always do multiple shoots for the same costume with different concepts!
For example, if you want big, sweeping shots, you will need a location that allows for wider framing and still looks good, while if you are primarily after shots with closer framing, you can go with a location with only a small usable portion. If you are looking to primarily showcase the costume itself or your posing, a flatter and simpler background works better than a busy background, but if you want cinematic shots or shots where you are existing in the environment as the character, somewhere that can show off the location itself as well as how you exist in it would work better.
Types of Locations
There are three main types of locations for cosplay shoots in relation to the cosplay itself. Of course, you can combine these types and there is a lot of overlap, but thinking of these three location types will help you conceptualize your shoot.
The first type is locations that are similar to something in the series, or an exact location from the series. My cover image is an example of this, where I took photos at the location of the climactic battle of the manga. Most fictional locations don't exist in real life so exactly, however, so think of locations that look similar to where this character might be found. The example on this slide shows a cosplay at a nature preserve with grassy fields and oak trees, which is similar to the locations the character traverses several times throughout the game she is from. This category can also include locations with similar vibes, such as a studio made up to look like a fancy European castle for a character from a series about European royalty, or a shoji screen backdrop for a character who lives in a Japanese-style house.
The second location type is locations with symbolic meaning. These locations showcase something about the themes or character arcs present in the series, and this can be accomplished with anything from specific props and setpieces to the entire background. One shoot I'd love to do with this concept is of Lady Blackpearl staring into a mirror -- this would symbolize her dual personality nature -- or of Lady Oscar wrapped in thorns, with the rose thorns symbolizing her glorious but fragile life. I chose to represent this location type with Ultimecia, a sorceress who wants to compress time so she is the only one who can live in the combined past/present/future, set among ruins. The ruins aren't accurate to the game, but show her crumbling reign marked by the passage of time.
The third location type is locations chosen for pure aesthetics. Obviously all locations are chosen for aesthetics, but these are locations with no deeper meaning and may not represent anything from the series at all. These can range from a simple colored wall backdrop to a sweeping landscape that simply looks good with the colors of the costume. Some examples are the Yasuho Hirose ocean shoot on the slide, where it doesn't represent a particular scene or location in the series but simply looks good with the cut and colors of the costume and the sailor theming, or my Princess White Rose milk bath photoshoot, where again the character never takes a milk bath, but a bathtub full of milk and roses shows off the detail of her floral hat and showcases the opulent nature of a rose-themed princess.
Requirements of your Shoot
Once you have a general concept, think of what is required to fit that concept. This can be as general as specific backgrounds or types of backgrounds to as specific as particular items at the location or particular lighting setups. Some shoots might need specific props, such as furniture to sit or lounge on, and props that won't work in a public location, such as realistic weapons that may cause panic or worse. Also keep in mind any accessibility needs, whether it is an accessible location in general to accommodate a disability or a need that is caused by the costume itself. Check not just the specific area you want to shoot, but how to get there from the parking lot or transit stop. Finally, keep in mind that unsecured outdoor locations, such as a park or beach, are locations where you can't change things about the location and you may encounter other people. Discussion of how to be respectful of such locations is in part 5.
Hey there, fashionistas! Iām excited to share a fantastic sewing tutorial on creating your own stunning balloon sleeves. If youāre looking to add a touch of drama and elegance to your outfits, this tutorial is perfect for you!
In my latest video, I guide you through the process of drafting and sewing balloon sleeves. Whether you prefer a lined or unlined version, Iāve got you covered. To make things even easier, Iāve included a free printable PDF pattern that you can download and use right away.
These balloon sleeves are incredibly versatile and can be added to a variety of garments, from tops to dresses. They instantly transform any piece into a fashion statement. Even if youāre new to sewing, fear not! This tutorial is beginner-friendly, with detailed step-by-step instructions and useful sewing tips to help you along the way.
Head over to my channel to watch the video now and embark on this exciting sewing journey. Donāt forget to give it a thumbs up if you find it helpful and consider subscribing to my channel for more inspiring sewing content.
I canāt wait to see your fabulous creations! Share your experience, ask questions, and connect with fellow sewing enthusiasts in the comments section. Letās make fashion magic together!
