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Some more Haniel cosplay today! Season 3 when.
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todays bird
DEAR READER
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Not today Justin
he wasn't even looking at me and he found me
Keni

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Aqua Utopia|海の底で記憶を紡ぐ
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@fabrickind
👁Look over here. Look at me.👁
Some more Haniel cosplay today! Season 3 when.
📸 @silencedrowns
you catch me in my room watching something kinky, but instead of masturbating I'm just watching intently and taking notes like it's a college lecture
You see me write down the word "sex" followed by a question mark and underlining it twice
Aina Sahalin, Mobile Suit Gundam
this pride month we’re all going to be radically pro transgender. or else.
hey so this means radically pro ALL transgender. don’t put limitations on this. all trans people are radically accepted here.
scone butch... The person for all your pastry and lesbian needs
needle/pin sharpener.
no really, squeeze it. Does it feel like it’s got sand in it? is’s sharpening sand. Stab the tip of your needle into it back and forth and it’ll help put a sharp edge back on a pin or needle that’s been blunted by use, or has a little bit of rust on it. It can’t fix anything worse then a little of either, and won’t work on something REALLY blunted, but its a lifesaver.
also it is a pepper
It's not a pepper and it's not for sharpening!!
It may seem like it should be a pepper, since that would go better with the flavour of a tomato (and the mass produced modern ones are admittedly more pepper shaped), but it is and has always been a strawberry. Here are some antique emery strawberries, which are much more strawberry shaped, and some of them have seeds.
(source)
(source)
(Home Needlework Magazine, 1899)
And it's for cleaning needles, not sharpening them. I can't imagine how jamming a blunt needle point around in a bunch of loose grit could possibly sharpen it in any significant way, and all the historical sources I've seen only talk about cleaning.
"Every sewer's work basket or work box should contain an emery bag, as shown in Fig. 2, through which to push a needle when it becomes rough, squeaks, or sticks in the material. An emery bag is usually shaped like a strawberry and consists of a rough denim bag filled with emery powder, which is a very hard material used for polishing metals. Such a bag may be purchased for 5 or 10 cents in any store that sells sewing materials. Needles often become rusted from the perspiration of the hands or from being left in damp places. The beginner may use a small emery bag to remove rust; or, a small piece of emery paper may be used instead."
-Woman's Institute Reference Library, 1916.
"Use an emery whenever your needle does not slip through the cloth easily."
-The Improvement of Educational Administration in Massachusetts, 1916.
"An emery bag is inexpensive and is useful to keep needles polished and smooth. If the hands perspire and it is difficult to push the needle through the cloth, running the needle through the emery will relieve the condition."
-Boys' and Girls' Clothing Club, 1915.
"It was very hot to sit and sew. The needle would get sticky in spite of all the little emery strawberry could give it, and Beth's fingers had never felt so clumsy and uncomfortable."
-The Unitarian Register, 1908.
"She polished her needles to nothing, pushing them in and out of the emery strawberry, but they always squeaked."
-Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm, 1910.
This patent from 1873 mentions an emery slab for sharpening pins, which is quite different from a cushion, and which sounds like it actually would work for sharpening.
"C is a slab of emery or other sharp and fine grit, for sharpening needles or pins"
Then later down the page it also says
"E is an emery cushion, secured in the body of the holder A, and is used for polishing needles and keeping them smooth."
So. Strawberry for cleaning. Not pepper for sharpening.
Gentle reminder - modern sewing tools are made from treated or plated metal, or stainless steel. In terms of human civilisation, this is a wild advance of technology. Needles are some of our oldest tools; rust was formerly ubiquitous, and attacked every form of everyday metal. A rusty needle tears fabric, or worse, stains it. The luxury and technology of rustproof needles and pins - forgotten in a few generations of human memory - and yet it is remembered in the strawberry. Memory is stored in the strawberry!
memory is stored in the emery
A Guide and Walkthrough to Making Belle's Blue Dress in OUAT
Last December, I attended the Paris OUAT con in this Belle Blue Dress cosplay I made completely by myself, which leads to this AMAZING photo I had with Emilie de Ravin (mother is GORGEOUS and so kind and nice in person by the way)
Since I had a lot of trial and errors when making this outfit I want to share my process just in case that it might help anybody who wants to make this too in the future!
Disclaimer:
this is actually my first serious attempt at full character cosplay! I am mainly a historical fashion and costume design enthusiast (heavy on enthusiast I have no professional training in fashion design or sewing whatsoever!!), which means my cosplay principle (which I guess is definately different to everyone) is actually how to 'improve' costumes from shows by combining historical and modern methods when constructing them and by giving them a more historical silhouette.
I will be honest in first saying I am actually not a big fan of the original costumes from OUAT personally -- especially the fabric choices and VERY MIXED AND MATCH silhouettes from very different historical periods that I don't think neccesarily make sense, even with the jumbo stories that is OUAT... I do understand why they are the way they are though for reasons like budget. But this is why I wasn't making Belle's dress to be exactly like the show version and was altering the design to my personal taste.
I also want to make 'cosplay costumes' into things I can actually wear in my daily life, so I will also focus on the practicality of the costumes I make. I think it's very important to figure out what your personal goal/aim with the cosplay garments before you started!! For example, if you don't want to wear this dress in real life and only want it for photoshoots there's a lot of procedure in my tutorial that you can just skip through and that's totally valid!
Lastly, the entire dress (skirt + bodice) can be done with only handsewing if you don't have a machine. I actually did get a sewing machine at the start of making this dress but I have been handsewing for about three years before this and even with the machine I'm still constructing the garment with a very historical-handsewing mindset.
Okay long disclaimer finally over!!! Let's get into it.
First let's look at the show design:
Reading the following tutorial you will realize I did not actually complete all the cosplay compotnents from the show design, and the reason is... due to poor time management (yes I am diagnosed with ADHD nobody is surprised) I actually started making everything like 10 days before the paris convention I RAN OUT OF TIME but here's the tutorial for all the steps anyway just in case you my dear readers actually know how to manage your time when doing a project...
1.White Blouse/Chemise
I was going to make this but for reasons above I ended up wearing a long-sleeve nightgown I thrifted from Ebay that has a similar neckline shape for the convention but here's a breakdown anyway!
This is definately not a historical look, and it appears to be a one piece blouse underneath.
To make the show version, the pattern may look something similar to this ugly doodle I have here!
The show accurate fabric you should be looking for is Broderie Anglaise (100%cotton), something like this: https://www.dalstonmillfabrics.co.uk/daisy-wheel-scalloped-edge-cotton-embroidered-anglaise-white.html
however, this is not the nicest fabric to work with, and if you want to cheat a bit, the search word 'dirndl blouse' on ebay is your friend!
To go for a more historical inspired vision, the neckline here is definately mimicing the neckline of tucking a garment called 'fichu' underneath your neckline, common in women's fashion in 17th century and 18th century and even 19th century (very loosely speaking, these 300 years also seems to be the very loosely speaking centuries of Belle's costume inspirations....)
There's tons of youtube tutorial outthere on how to make a fichu, and there are individual sellers on etsy selling these so I won't elaborate too much here, but to go for this look, you can wear a white chemise with the desired sleeve you want, and tuck in the fichu after you have put on your bodice and skirt.
and speaking of undergarments! let's go to the silhouette defining -
2. supportive undergaments:
I wore a corset for this look, which gave that nice shape of the bodice and supported the weight of my skirt and my pockets (more on those later). This made my layers to be: 1 very simple linen slip dress I made (please don't wear corset on your bare skin) + corset + the thrifted nightgown in substitute of the white blouse/chemise + 1 white cotton underskirt + blue bodice & blue skirt
However, from what I can see, the show layers are probably: 1 white blouse + blue bodice + 1 Farthingale or a bumroll + the blue skirt
A bumroll is basically a supportive garment that supports and holds the silhouette of the skirt at the hip, it's something that looks like this:
and will make the skirt looks like this
which is why I say the show version of the outfit definately has one underneath! I was going to wear one as well, they are quite easy to make and there are also people on etsy selling readymade ones, and yes the reason i did not wear one is my poor planning of time.....
but overall, a corset + a bumroll should give you a really nice silhouette (btw if you have the classic misconception that corsets are patriarchal torture tools...they are not! if you want to know more about this here's a great video: https://youtu.be/zNwTqanp0Aw?si=4J5Q6ZrAUdSD8Zoe
and Belle who has to work as a maid and do heavy labour everyday would definately wear one....)
finally, let's go to the juicy part after all these yapping from mine I'm really sorry I have no idea how to be concise.
3. the Blue Bodice:
fabric choice: linen, definately linen, this would be the historical choice and it just looks good and so easy to clean I'm literally linen 's number 1 fan. I think they used linen for the show version too, but sometimes I zoom in and think are those actually linen or are they really denim....
and yes I am aware that linen fabric can be quite pricey, but they are so worth it and sometimes you can find great deals on ebay by searching 'linen fabric remnant', I did buy mine new (during black friday), and I bought four metres in total for the bodice and the skirt and I still have quite a lot to spare.
If you are buying fabric online like me you should definately order sample beforehand, I picked my final fabric by comparing like 10 different samples of light blue linen, if you are also based in UK, I bought mine from Higgs & Higgs's website and they do free samples!
you also need some other fabric for the lining layer (do not skip this part!!! a good lining make so much difference in your final product), I just used calico which is one of the cheapest fabric outthere as most people use it for mockups (a trial run version of the garment to test your patterns and fit), calico is 100%cotton and it has the right kind of stiffness for this kind of lining I really recommend it.
If you don't want to draft the pattern completly from scratch by yourself, I recommend using an exisitng pattern like simplicity 3809 and butterick 4669, and alter it to your body shape and the ouat design:
(the blue line is the dart)
The main difference between these and the belle bodice would be that the belle bodice has a dart, and butterick 4669 (as well as most other bodice/corset top commercial pattern I've seen) has not:
which led me to create my own pattern like this:
I'm actually very new to pattern drafting myself so very sorry I can't produce a precise pattern for you guys to reference, and if you are also bad at pattern drafting like me, my method of altering from an existing pattern (mainly adding the dart and play with measurements) and make mock up and alter again and mock up again... has worked more or less for me!
and when you have your pattern ready, the assemble process would be to sew all the lining pieces together first, and then attach the bonings (very important for the final shape, even though I'm wearing a corset I still add those boning that's how important they are!!! I used synthetic whalebone which is the best material but they are quite pricey, you can use zipties or steel bonings, lots of corsetry tutorials out there have talked about this!), as for boning placements you can refer to the pattern above. I bought premade boning channels for this, so I sew the boning channels onto the lining layers first and then inserted the bonings.
(btw did I mention that it's very crucial to press your garments with iron every single step of the way?)
You can then make the outer layer with the blue linen fabric, which essentially is exactly the same as the inner one, when you are done, attach the two layers together and flip it over, and your finish would look so neat and tidy I'm not kidding:
I mean this could've been better but this is literally my first attempt at making a bodice/corset like garment and I finished this in less than 1 week I AM PROUD OF MYSELF!
and now let's talk about those brown bindings.
back to the show version again, I feel like they have either used suede or velvet, I literally cannot tell, and yes if you try to buy premade binding tape, it would be very hard to find look alike to this shade and texture (trust me I've tried), which means you should find a lookalike fabric and make the tapes yourselves, the fabric options would be: velvet, suede, corduroy, wool, linen, cotton canvas, and I would suggest to shop this fabric in person and bring your blue linen fabric because if you shop this online there's a very high chance the colour tones of the two won't match nicely.
I found two options in a fabric street in London, one is wool and one is corduroy, and I went for the wool because it matches the cold tone of my blue linen fabric better and also because wool is more rumplestiltskin themed!
this is the wool I chose, I basically just teared them into long strips and bind the bodice with it, I also used the wool thread I teared from this fabric to sew the base layer of my lacing holes.
Here's the cotton corduroy I end up not using for comparison:
After you have bound the blue bodice with your brown strips, you can finish the inside with cotton tapes, using felling stitches (which is what I did as you can see from the previous photos).
You can then use an awl or whatever other methods to make the lacing holes at the front, I made 10 pairs of lacing holes following the show version, however, I did not use metal gourmets as I like the hand embroideried lacing holes better and I can add my rumbelle elements this way too:
I use the wool thread I tear from the brown binding fabric as a base layer, and then i added another layer of gold thread (vintage japanese embroidery silk thread mixed with actual gold or gold toned silver I'm so rumbelle pilled I went insane) symbolizing the transformation of rumple's character. The sewing here is not my best but yes I was sewing this on the metro in paris and the night before convention I RAN OUT OF TIME)
Unlike the show version with its black lacing cords which honestly is quite ugly.... I used vintage french gold cords (again rumbelle made me crazy and broke)
and that's basically it for the bodice! Now onto the skirt!
The Blue Skirt
I think the show version just did a simple gathered skirt, however, I made a catridge pleat skirt, historical, looks great, and very easy to make!
I recommend these two great tutorials on how to make a catridge pleat skirt:
I didn't sew a pocket into this, instead, using a historical tied on pocket (which is actually seen on the blue dress variant of the disney live action beauty and the beast) but if you want to, sewing two pockets into the dress should be quite easy and simple.
I also french-seamed the entire skirt so the inside finishing is very secure
I use this very rumbelle themed blue silk + gold thread to do my pleating, and sew the button hole with the previously seen gold thread, and used a golden rose button for some more rumbelle elements.
after I finish the skirt, I start on the most special part of this cosplay, which is a rumbelle themed embroidered skirt bottom hem, (with all the crucial rumbelle elements!) designed by my good friend Fiona, the very very very talented @pinkantihistamine
Again, these embroideries are not the neatest because of the time issue I mentioned (and the fact that this is actually my first time doing serious embroidery on a garment....)
I printed out Fiona's design onto some sticky water soluble paper stabilizer (you can get them on amazon and everywhere, if you do embroidery and don't know about these you are missing out!!!) and cut them and stick them onto my skirt hem (and rinse them under water when all the embroderies are done)
And I use wool threads and yarns to embroider everything (they are so much better than embroidery flosses trust me!!! and yes again with the rumple wool theme)
I finish the entire 3 metres long skirt hem embroidery in three days while doing paris tourism, a round of applause for my suffering please....
btw because the linen fabric is stiff enough I didn't have to use an embroidery hoop (which made all the train and metro and bus embroidery a bit more easier bruh)
more close ups:
and that's the skirt done!!!
the final cosplay compotent I want to talk about are the shoes, these are what I wore to the paris con:
I found these on ebay after searching vintage teal pumps everyday for three months, these are not show accurate but the brown-gold is so rumple and the blue is so belle to me so I love them, if you want to go for the show accurate version, you should be looking for these:
The Everest in Black & Tan must be seen to be believed. Witness our in their full glory, and discover the sole for your soul at Fluevog tod
the all white version of the 'everest' model from John Fluevog shoes, the show painted the all white models blue for belle. From time to time people might be selling these on ebay so you have to keep an eye for it (And they are not the cheapest...)
Some other look alike would be this one from american duchess (again PRICEY)
Be utterly beguiling in Elsie Pumps! Meticulously reproduced from period originals, Elsie is accurate to 1890 through 1920. These step-in pu
if you want to make the belle shoes yourselves, I think the show takes inspirations mainly from 1930s women dancing shoes so you can start from there (as I said, the ouat historical inspirations are really all over the place), but I think some 17th century style slippers might look very nice for belle too.
If you are still reading, thank you so so much! I really do keep on yapping and this is actually my first attempt in writing a costume tutorial so I hope everything makes sense and if you have any questions do dm me or leave a comment! (I also did not proof read this at all so do excuse all the spelling errors...)
I also plan to make Belle's gold dress and her green cloak in the future so stay tuned!
There's only one more month until the Steel Ball Run anime premieres, so I’m celebrating by posting the first shot from my Diego Brando equestrian shoot! I’ll be sharing one photo every week as the anime airs (assuming its weekly).
📸: Sharma Shari
Cosplay by me
Belt buckle STL by hexerik
GYARU MAGAZINE PAGES
Nice spreadsheet of crafting/sewing supply specific thrift stores! The lady who made it has added an international tab for all the non-u.s. ones, which you can get to by clicking the "A1" arrow thingy in the upper left corner. You can also submit more if you know of any that aren't on the list.
None in my province yet, alas, but hopefully someday.
Found you via your Naoya cosplay (10/10 my boy 😭😭😭❤️💕).
And thought I’d ask if you could direct me to any resources for face contouring and crossplay makeup? I’m like super makeup stupid and not sure what products I should buy. Your face/makeup looks insanely good/goals in all your photos so I thought I’d ask.
Thank you very much!! I drew my basic routine and linked a few tutorials I have referenced throughout the years below. Hopefully this helps a bit, let me know if you have questions. I am by no means an expert but this is what has been working for me!
Full text tutorial under the cut !
steps:
Wash your face and use a moisturizer!
0. Face tape. I basically use medical tape to pull up the sides of my face and make my jawline sharper. (optional, I get lazy sometimes) Tutorial HERE from another cosplayer. I use an alcohol wipe on the areas I am putting the tape to remove oil and have it stick super well for a full con day.
1. Base Makeup: I use a poreless primer (haven't settled on a brand yet but hear good things about elf) and then let it sit for a few minutes, then use this color corrector by NYX for red or dark spots and cover my whole face with jung saem mool cusion foundation, going light around the eyes. Here is a tutorial on color correcting! Before using my current foundation I used a liquid foundation from NARS which is probably more available but if you are on a budget I also enjoy NYX products.
Is Bernadette Banner right about corsets?
There's this attitude I see pop up periodically on this website that Bernadette Banner is a total sham who dupes people into believing that corsets were okay, speaking from her own personal and limited experience while not saying anything a real historian would stand by. A lot of the time, they kind of vaguely allude to what her points on the topic are, spreading ideas that they're completely out there to people who haven't bothered to watch.
After seeing one too many of these posts, I decided that the productive thing to do would be to look at her video specifically on corsetry myths, pull out her claims, and analyze them from a historian's perspective. I don't tend to watch costubers because a) I know more than them and so get nothing out of their content and b) I have a lot of bitterness about people who know less than me being more successful as #brands because they're comfortable on camera (which is a failing of mine, I recognize). That being said, what little I've seen of Bernadette Banner has actually been pretty good.
Thanks for linking that point about corsets rounding out the waist - every now and then I bring that out in the inevitable "corsets bad because everyone tightlaced because you can't get that narrow waist in this picture without tightlacing", and I think it never quite lands the way it did light up a lightbulb for myself (maybe because I get a bit bogged down in the explanation). I spent approximately fourteen years going to art lessons in my childhood and teenage years, and therefore getting a pretty solid primer on how 3D objects look in a flat representation, and I guess that's part of the reason it was a "once you see you cannot unsee" thing for me, looking at old photos after I learned about this - whenever someone is presented in half-profile, which they actually often are, it's now obvious to me how the torso around the waist isn't as flattened as it actually is naturally. And you can of course see it in the extants, too. I think I learned it from Leimomi / The Dreamstress offhandedly mentioning it in a comment somewhere (obviously from her own ample experience), so it's good to have something a bit more solid to link back to.
I don't think I've really encountered much of said criticism in particulars, but I'm also wary of people dismissing costumers' knowledge as not real because I know (of) a number of people who combine the costuming hobby with actual academic research (case in point: you). Or at least apply a more or less academic standard to their costuming research, even if they gained the academic standard in a different field - I'm more unclear on who exactly this applies to but since one such person is me, I can at least tell when someone is being conscientious with their sources and providing them for others to check out for themselves. And Bernadette Banner is definitely among the costubers who actually go to the trouble of trying to cite their sources. Or at least did - I haven't watched her much recently because there's only so much I can keep up with (and it does feel like she's become a tad too YouTuber-y for what I'm actually interested in). Sooo. It also still feels a bit like "being interested in clothes is frivolous and therefore if you are you're obviously not a serious researcher and wrong". And then I guess all the nuance you do try to insert is just casually dismissed because nuance is always beneath the notice of internet warriors, you have to pick a side.
Arguments like this do often feel like you have to pick a side without nuance, and like the corset criticisers have picked the side of "humans in the past stupid and ignorant, humans in the 21st century enlightened and know everything there is to know", and, well, if looking into history taught me anything, it's that that's a pretty ignorant view to take; and if historical costuming taught me anything, it's that some solutions from the past are actually better for at least some applications than our oh-so-advanced ones. Because from my personal experience I'm not particularly convinced modern bras are so much better than corsets. They're different, and have different drawbacks.
I may not be making the same argument you are, sorry. This got a bit ranty.
I think we're coming at the same argument, though maybe not in exactly the same ways! Because we've both been dealing with the problem for so long, haha.
Pragmatic Costumer's post is so good, and I've linked it in so many different places as an illustration. I can't use myself because I have enough natural squish (am fatter than her) that I always get compression out of my corsets and can't fasten my gowns without them.
Banner does cite her sources in this video, at least. I do wish she'd separated primary and secondary, because they're all together in alphabetical order, but they're there.
I agree wholeheartedly; I actually just got into a really interesting conversation with a historian yesterday about the designation "historian" in the first place, and how we sometimes lack the language to hold up the very important work of someone who does research but does not have the technical qualifications of a historian. No one wants to downplay their work, but no one wants to denigrate people with PhD's either. I've also had personal issues with the community because the vast majority of my social circle does exactly what costubers do, we just aren't on video about it and so don't get similar respect. But that's on me and my ego.
As far as the corset issue, I will always be a centrist. There are 100% downsides to corsetry, as Bernadette points out, things like loss of muscle mass, chafing, the very idea of body modification, etc. Women existed before corsets and have existed after them. They were often uncomfortable, and occasionally dangerously so. But they weren't created to be torture devices; they served multiple real, decent purposes as well. They provide breast and back support, and give a smooth surface to drape clothing on in an era before stretch fabrics. I've worn 18th century clothing without stays before, and you know what? Feeling all that weight digging into your waist hanging off your hips is far worse than the feeling of the stays.
When I talk to the public about it, I liken them to shoes. Do people technically need to wear shoes? No, not really, unless it's snowy. But they serve important functions, keeping our feet off the ground, warm, and supported. However, they exist in a million different forms, many of which are uncomfortable and even dangerous, because they're trendy. People wear shoes that are made poorly or fit poorly, and suffer because of it. They pinch, they wobble, stilettos get caught in cobblestones, the wreck your arches and calves, etc. And yeah, a lot of that is some patriarchal bullshit. But if we look at ourselves, do we want pop historians of the future calling us all stupid and tortured for wearing high heels?
Gilbert Baker helps hoist one of the two original rainbow flags created by the decoration committee for San Francisco Gay Freedom Day | 1978 | ph: James McNamara, lead seamster of the flags
As... as opposed to what, Tumblr? Non-link type links?
Happy pride month specifically to folks on the asexual and aromantic spectrum who oftentimes feel isolated and left out of the conversation. You belong here as much as the rest of us and I hope that you are all loved in a way that is comforting to you.
future features to help tumblr become the new pdf:
you can insert tables into posts
you can link poll results and notes to a graph or chart
when you reblog a post, you can annotate it by highlighting words and drawing on the post (the drawings stack with each reblog) (you can only draw in your blog colors)
search feature that works
Hey You! ‘Jet Set Radio’ SEGA Dreamcast