Stunner Sunday morning to return to “church”* for the first time with the fellas in far too long.
Thetis Lake Regional Park
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Stunner Sunday morning to return to “church”* for the first time with the fellas in far too long.
Thetis Lake Regional Park
Perhaps the thing we find hardest about cold immersion is not the cold, on its own, but the fact the experience leaves us with nothing to contemplate - or be distracted by - other than the uncomfortable container into which we have placed ourselves.
Uncomfortable, and beautiful, as today, where this thought arose.
Morning swim views.
Seen on my run: Mackenzie Bight & Gowlland Tod Park. 😍
On the Pointlessness of Running
I hesitated to write about it, because the point of the thing was to do something pointless, so why make a point about it?
Huh?
Perhaps I should start at the point of departure, which isn’t actually a point at all, but a line. A squiggly, undulating, earth-toned ribbon that starts and ends at no particular point, traveling around and through most of my home on Southern Vancouver Island. It wraps itself around and holds together a small community of runners, hikers and mountain bikers. It travels through most of my days, whether beneath my feet or through my mind.
Apart from people, it is this line – these trails – that tie me most securely to this place. In truth, trails even bolster my bonds to those people, so we are all connected – me, my people, my place – through the sinuous strength of our trails.
We form a loop.
I have wondered, for years, whether a continuous loop could be formed to connect most of my favourite trails in the region. Typically, I cut the ball of yarn of our local trails into manageable threads into which I weave my evening and weekend running and cycling outings. An hour or two, a few kilometers at a time. A run at Thetis Lake, a ride at Hartland. What if they could be tied together? What if I could just keep running?
What if I could form a loop?
~
The idea of this loop circles back to the beginning of the year (2013), when I made a commitment to focus my attention on home and explore, to the fullest extent within my means, my backyard. At the outset I defined my backyard as Vancouver Island in its entirety, but early in the year, while out mountain biking, completely lost following the wheel of my friend Tim as he led me away from my known routes, I realized I had a lot to learn from and about the trails even closer to my back door. And so while I spent the year exploring tip-to-(nearly)-tip and edge-to-edge on the Island, I also got hyper-local – and often rather lost – learning the trails of Victoria. Through this exploration I came to change Partridge Hills from a personal route-finding hell into my version of heaven on a mountain bike. I traced the contours of Mount Work until I was as familiar with its flanks as Salim was his lover’s. I asked anyone in the know and then did my own reconnaissance until I too knew how to connect every trail on the southwest Saanich Peninsula.
I cannot adequately describe the pleasure borne of transforming trail intersections into familiar friends. Your land becomes your family; your point on that landscape connected through a lineage of knowledge to all others. For me, last year, while exploring my local trails I came to feel the most profoundly grounding sensation: Belonging.
~
“Everything in life is vibration.” ~ Albert Einstein
A state of belonging, like all equilibriums, is a state of movement. We are defined by our movement, by our changing states. As still as I may appear on this couch, staring quietly out the window at the Pacific storm raging outside, at the atomic level I’m a dance party in Berlin; as equilibrated as my friend the family man may have appeared on the outside, he told me while on a run with another mate in October that inside he was vibrating for change, for movement, for adventure.
So I told him about my idea to loop 60-odd kilometers of local trails into one big ol’ run. Told him I couldn’t offer him any first ascents, major scientific discoveries or public recognition to go along with this subjectively defined adventure. Acknowledged that objectively, rationally, the whole idea was pretty pointless. But I told him that that was kinda the way I wanted it, that I liked the idea of creating your own adventure out of the mundane, wasn’t averse to running around in a (big, undulating, visually stunning) circle, that I found resonance in Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard’s description of he and friend (and later founder of The North Face) Doug Tompkins when they took their transformative (unsponsored, undocumented, laissez-faire) trip to Patagonia in 1968: Conquerors of the Useless. “It’s kind of like the quest for the Holy Grail,” Chouinard observed, “Who gives a shit about what the Holy Grail is, it’s the quest that’s important.”
My friend, typically one drawn to the gravity of Big Important Goals, thought for a moment and then said yes. We had a pointless quest. His adventure. Our movement.
~
The thing about vibrations: They cause ripples. Ripples expand outwards. A pointedly pointless beginning gains momentum. Concentric circles amplify an original idea and within those loops a community finds the space to grow. Word got out. Suddenly three guys heading out for a pointless run became an event. It occurred to me that so much of my year of backyard exploration had been written in the cursive of trails – why not draft its final chapter in that same script, make the finale of the year and the personal project into a celebration of those trails? We set December 31st as our day. We plotted a route from Thetis Lake to Goldstream Provincial Park; to Mount Finlayson; to Caleb Pike at the southern end of Gowlland Tod Provincial Park; through to Mackenzie Bight at its northern end; into and around my heavenly Partridge Hills; down to Durrance Lake; across to the Hartland end of Mount Work Regional Park; up, around, over and down Mount Work to its southernmost appendages; along to, up and over Stewart Mountain; and then a final hobble back to Thetis Lake Regional Park. 60-something kilometers. 8000-or-so feet of climbing.
A pointless loop.
About 1/3 of the way into that loop, three and a half hours into what ultimately turned into a 9 hour day, having picked up a dozen or so runners to add to our original alligator of eleven, ten more waiting for us 2 hours down the trail, my friend wove his way up to me at the front of the pack, ran forward through mud, movement, conversation, a kaleidoscope of clothing, laughter and friendships-in-the-making until he was just off my shoulder, within earshot.
“I guess it’s not so pointless any more?”
I rose with the sun this morning and hit the trails early, in order to leave most of the day free to link up with my brother and pay a surprise visit to our dear ol' da' on Pender Island. The hours alone tracing ribbons in the dirt gave me time to reflect on the day and the men it celebrates. So I ran through the woods accompanied by the times my dad and I have shared similar places, those memories standing out as they do with the greatest relief in the landscape of our history. My mind ran along the trails of Lake O'Hara with my father-in-law, the economist, feeling the value of those memories increasing with every stride and every day now that their supply has been cut down to zero. And I thought of all the memories I have the privilege of creating and sharing with all the young dads in my life, who open their homes and their families to me and by their example provide inspiration every day for a belief in Goodness. This one's for all of you, with thanks.
Another from the ongoing Point Hope | Front Yard Photos project. Victoria, BC. (iPhone 5)
Such Great Heights, Central Saanich, BC
The Morning My Brother Was Born, 34 Years Later. Point Hope, Victoria, BC. (D700)
I have great respect, as an artist and as a human being, for Chris Velan. For me, he is an admirable example of an individual with a purity of purpose driven by a deep sense of self and a clarity of passion. He has held the brass ring as contemporary society perceives it and chosen to return it to the jeweler, to instead seek gold of his own smithing.
And, hell, his music just raises the temperature of your body and the spirits of those with whom you share it.
I had the privilege of sharing some time with Chris late last year when he came out west to play for us at a private party hosted by Gabriel Ross (pictured). At the time he was in the midst of walking barefoot across the course grit sandpaper of the breakdown of his marriage, but when he spoke of it, while acknowledging the pain of the travel, he did so only with grace. I expect that same grace will ring through this new album of his, The Long Goodbye, which is the musical product - and one hopes, salve - of that raw time in his life.
Front yard, April 25, 2013 (D700)
Take the pre-race media reports as your guide and you'll be forgiven for assuming Jim Finlayson has retired from running, or that he's taking a pass on this year's Sun Run, or that even if he crosses the start line it will be from rows back, behind the elites, behind those that matter, behind the real stories.
Me, I read from a different book. It's printed in maize-coloured block capitals and reads: He'll be there. Take notice.
(Photo taken March 24th at the Comox Valley Half Marathon, where Finlayson narrowly missed setting a new Canadian Masters record for the distance.)
I've moved away from the house, moved away from the backyard, but in some sense I suspect I'll never move away from the tree that lives there, and the way in which it has acted as my personal indicator of spring. Today I stopped by to find it in bloom.
On the Observer Effect, Heisenberg and the Subjective Fallibility of Judgment
In science, the term observer effect refers to changes that the act of observation will make on a phenomenon being observed. … The observer effect on a physical process can often be reduced to insignificance by using better instruments or observation techniques. However, in quantum mechanics … it is not possible to observe a system without changing the system, so the observer must be considered part of the system being observed.
- Wikipedia
In simplified terms, this means that, at least in the realm of quantum physics, the closer you are to an object the less accurately you can measure or assess it. In common usage, this effect is often confused with the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle, which poet Shane Koyczan defines with his typical elegance: "Nothing is fo' shizzle"
And the interesting thing about that Is that it ensures that the principle itself can't even be a fact. But we still act as though This time we can see the forest through the trees.
- from the poem, “Atlantis”
Mashing-up, over-simplifying and bastardizing these two principles, extrapolating their physical truth to conjecture about human behavior, leads to the following hypothesis:
The closer we are to another human being, the less we are able to objectively, accurately, assess their condition. Taken to the ultimate limit of observational closeness, this would suggest that humans cannot with certainty assess themselves.
Put another way:
We’re kinda crap at knowing ourselves, hard as we may try.
-----
I’ve learned myself well enough over the course of these years dealing with a heart condition to know that when I get symptomatic out in the woods I get first frustrated, then angry. A sadness often follows in the days proceeding an episode out on the trails, but while still out there and fighting my limitations I get single-minded, bullish – I rage. On a particularly bad day during the 2010 TransRockies Challenge mountain bike stage race I was raging as my teammate and I approached the Continental Divide, me reduced to pushing my bike, head limp, wheezing, unbalanced and zigzagging on either side of the trail. I was lucky that day to have my 200+ pound teammate with me because after a few minutes of watching that debacle playing out in front of him, taking on the chin my swearing back at him when he suggested I stop, he finally got tired of it and simply knocked me over, then hung me upside-down from the ankles to get some blood back into my by-then grey and numb face. I suspect this episode of lycra-clad couples yoga, witnessed by dozens of our competitors as they passed by, will live on in TransRockies mythology for years to come.
I’m not romanticizing this behavior – I recognize it for its futility and its stupidity. But I also recognize it for its genesis and its (lizard-brained) rationale: It’s a fight for control. Due to some still-undiagnosed fault of physiology I no longer have control over my cardiovascular system and its ability to perform. When this system breaks down I’m left with the things I can control – my will, my desire, my perseverance – and I put those into overdrive. I try to overcompensate for the failings of my body with an exaggerated effort of my mind. The rub, though, is that in placing this disproportionate effort into tenacity, to tax my mind with that effort, I leave my mind too depleted to perform what should be its primary function when heading out into the woods: Judgment.
I recognize this.
-----
Our exercise of judgment is not limited to outdoor adventures; its effects are certainly not limited to us as individuals. In terms of the outcomes resulting from our judgment, as social creatures our families, friends and broader networks are affected by the implication of our decisions. On the flip side of the coin, individuals of contemporary society are under the influence of a multiplicity of decision-making inputs, information and opinions. How we filter and weight these – and the extent to which we are aware of the effect the outcomes of this process will have on the people around us – are key to making sound decisions. Outside, in unforgiving terrain that doesn’t give a damn how its behavior will affect us, clarity of judgment becomes paramount. But no matter the context – whether making a go/no-go decision about traversing a loaded avalanche slope or your choice of language in the midst of an argument with a loved one – having an understanding of the factors that cloud that clarity of judgment is critical.
Months after surviving a massive avalanche on the slopes of Mount Manaslu, in the Nepali Himalaya, that killed 11 other mountaineers, honch backcountry skier, Greg Hill, reflected on his blog on the decisions that put he and his teammates in harm’s way:
I realized that the more I want to summit something, the more I will justify things and ignore signs. This has happened to me in the past when I was way out on a traverse and really wanted to climb this 10 000 foot peak that is on my list. The mountains let us get away with an amazing descent in the morning and I wanted one more summit. The signs were all pointing to turn around and all I was doing was justifying to keep trying. Eventually as I skinned across a slope I was sent flying down a 500-foot slope. Luckily nothing significant happened. But from now on the more I want something the more I will double check that I am not ignoring signs.
For Hill, his judgment was clouded by the seduction of a stretch goal; in the general case the diminution in judgment resulting from the pursuit of a particularly enticing positive outcome, thing, or state of being. In theory, in the abstract, I recognize the opposite and equally powerful manner in which our judgment can be compromised: by the drive away from a negative outcome, thing, or state of being. I just hadn’t recognized how it has been affecting me.
-----
The perception of this risk usually changes with the objective, quite often becoming clouded as the objectives get personally more important.
- Hill, again
I’m in the midst of an extended period of cardiac symptomatology. Since my very long day on the Spearhead my heart simply hasn’t been right – everything I try to do leaves me challenged, breathless. Nonetheless, the weekend following the Spearhead Traverse I put in long days of ski touring, solo, on both Saturday and Sunday. On the following Wednesday I jumped into a road-running group’s workout – my heart suffered badly and I had to quit, going home to lie in the bath with a 140 bpm heart rate before passing out with panting exhaustion. The following day was a write-off, more or less forced onto my back for the day. That Friday I considered my options. I wanted to tour. I wanted to go on an adventure. I wanted to put in a big day. I felt the entire gravity of the earth dragging me outside and into its wilderness.
I felt it dragging me back north into the meat of the Vancouver Island Mountain Range, towards my old friend, Mount Albert Edward, who I’d flanked but been able to summit the previous weekend. The trouble was, the previous weekend I was skiing on top of a bulletproof crust of snow and in the intervening days over 30cm of new snow had fallen. You don’t need to be an avalanche expert to understand the physics involved – imagine tilting a layer cake with slippery icing between the layers. No one wants to get caught underneath a foot of gravity-assisted sponge cake. The Vancouver Island Avalanche Bulletin pegged the outlook in the alpine at high. More snow was scheduled for the following day; visibility was going to be marginal. I tried to co-opt my buddy George into joining me – more to the point I tried to co-opt his avalanche transceiver and shovel into joining me.
“How far will it be?”
“Around 35k.”
“Dude, I don’t have the fitness for that – how long would it take?”
“Shouldn’t be more than 8 hours with the new snow, but I’ll break trail the whole way.”
“Get bent, I’m going to the resort.”
Damn.
No problem. I can do this. I’ll be smart. There’s not a lot of high-angle, avalanche-prone terrain on the route. I’ll be fine. I’m getting this done. I packed my heart medication and the rest of my gear before heading into town to meet up with friends for a gentle beer and a blether, anticipating an early start the next day.
At the pub, I told one of my friends about all this, about the gravity, about the plan.
“I know.”
“What do you mean, you know? What do you know?”
“I know how you’re feeling, that itchiness, that sense of being caged. Look at you. Don’t you realize that for days after a heart episode you’re not yourself? You’re grumpy, agitated…approaching frantic. It’s so obvious you’re pissed at your body and that all you want to do in response is to do more, to push harder. Honestly, you become a bit of an asshole.”
“Oh.”
No, I hadn’t realized. Hadn’t realized that my stubbornness persisted beyond the day of an acute episode and that following those days I would continue to fight my heart, to push, to try to disprove my physical limitations, to repel that negative reality.
While I recognized the fact of my failing judgment when I’m in the midst of a cardiac episode, what I’d failed to recognize – where I’ve proven to be crap at self-knowledge – is that my questionable judgment persists beyond the narrow-scale circumstances of being symptomatic on the trail and extends in the broader-scale context of my mindset and decision-making in the following days.
“And I also know you're not going to ski that mountain tomorrow.”
“Oh?”
Notwithstanding the realization that had begun to establish a tenuous hold on my psyche, my back started to come up.
“No. I may not ski, but I figure I can interpret avalanche reports that say ‘high risk’ and translate that to ‘incredibly low intelligence if attempting to ski alone.’ You’d be an idiot – consider yourself disowned if you go.”
Naturally, in my state, my back came up all the further, very nearly pulling me out the door and back to my condo for the few hours sleep before I was scheduled to leave. But then the soundness of her observation poked a hole in the shroud of my faulty judgment, and through it came tearing the full reality of the foolishness I had been considering, but hadn't been able to see in myself, for myself.
I stayed seated. I pushed back, created a little distance and observed the forest for what it was. I turned the trip off.
-----
This one's for friends and the way they know us sometimes better than we know ourselves.
Cumberland, BC
Forbidden, Unexpected
The bootprints that fear leaves behind on time’s pathways through our mind. So much else is blown away on the wind, washes downstream or is simply covered over by the fresher memories that accumulate with every passing season. But memories born of fear – oh, those are instantly petrified, turned to enduring stone in the landscapes of our brains.
I was nine years old that spring day, skiing with my dad on Forbidden Plateau, one of the many one-lift-wonder ski hills that sputtered through existence in the 70s and 80s before succumbing to financial pressures and, especially here on Vancouver Island, the inconsistencies of weather and snowpack. That day, it was in its heyday, as were my dad and I. I was skiing in front of dad – bombing (as far as a nine year old can be trusted to be objective about such things) – turning big GS arcs across an open bowl, fresh snow windblown into drifts sculpted perfectly for jumping.
Wump! Just as I coiled my legs to spring off the next drift it fell away beneath me. In every direction but down the world stopped; below me it continued, accelerated, opened up into a dark yawning abyss. I dangled by my right leg, held above the creek 10 feet below me by only a few centimeters of ski edge caught on something. Fear gripped me as I instinctively tried to stay still to avoid challenging my purchase even before my dad skied up to deliver the same slightly panicked advice. He’s calling up to people on the chair lift, telling them to fetch the ski patrol. I imagine how cold that water will be if I fall, if I even survive it given my head will land first from this bat-like perch. Please don’t let me fall. An eternity passes, my dad talking to me, trying to keep me calm. Finally the ski patrol arrives.
I have no idea what happened next, how they pulled me out. I think perhaps I was transported down the hill strapped into one of those sliding-ski-gurney-thingies. If I did, surely it was with a feeling of combined mortification and elation at my celebrity. What I remember precisely, what is stamped into my mind, is the feeling of that snow falling away; the uncertain relief of knowing I was hanging, but for how long; the expanse of cold air between me and the creek below. I say precisely, but I know I have parts of this wrong, at least the measurements. Just as the streets of our childhoods between schools and houses run for tens of miles, but then somehow shrink to hundreds of yards when we return as adults, I was probably hanging six inches above that creek. The creek itself was probably a trickle of run-off no wider than a garter snake. But I remember that moment just as deeply as I have forgotten all the other moments in all the other minutes, days, weeks and likely months on either side of it.
——-
Like the others, the Forbidden Plateau Ski Hill at Wood Mountain, at the southern boundary of Vancouver Island’s Strathcona Provincial Park, was eventually mothballed. Vandals added the final punctuation to a place of formative ski stories for so many Islanders when they burned the lodge to the ground a couple of years later.
In the pre-dawn grey I sat in my car eating a bowl of granola, facing towards a darker, geometrical shape that I assumed must be the old lodge’s foundation. But I couldn’t be sure. I’d followed the directions up the road and this seemed to be the place, but my memory for these details was nil. I don’t know that I returned after that day when I was nine. Regardless, I felt I was seeing this place for the first time.
I waited for the light to come up so I could ensure this was in fact the starting point for the ski traverse I intended doing from Wood Mountain, across the Forbidden Plateau (the geographical feature rather than the ski hill) to the Paradise Meadows below Mt. Washington. At only 30k and over forgiving terrain (plateaus are flat by definition, yes?), I figured this would make for a nice little low-consequence solo mini-adventure. The nostalgia that I took with my morning cereal just made it that little bit more compelling.
So as I got started I rubbernecked at the chairlift chairs hanging from their cables-come-gallows for a decade and a half. Looked for familiarity on the ski runs as I ascended. Felt my age. Felt the comforting weight of history. Carried it with me, a welcome companion, upwards into the mountain. Let it converse with the new experiences of this tour and the beauty of the Plateau as it spread out beyond the ski hill. I felt true ecstasy at times; I laughed at myself as I grinned madly and sung out loud.
——-
One of my projects for the year is to spend as much time as possible exploring my Vancouver Island backyard. I’ve had the great pleasure and privilege of having traveled around the world exploring and adventuring; however, time being a finite resource, the cost of this itinerancy has been my relative neglect of landscapes and experiences closer to home. Recognizing that shifts in equilibrium typically require planned acts of determinism, I’ve committed to pushing back against my well-established far-flung wanderlust and turning down opportunities away from home in favour of creating opportunities closer at hand – 2013 is about being an outdoor homebody.
Skiing a few of Vancouver Island’s classic tours and traverses satisfies that plan, and with the longer days of March extending available range, this Forbidden ski tour was one of the first mini-adventures on my list. Bu it wasn’t to be. Three hours in I was descending a peak in a near white-out, watching the clock run past my intermediate marks to complete the traverse in the available time and, the third time I cliffed-out (what happened to the advertised flat geography?), figured prudence dictated a turn-around on this little solo outing.
I left my ecstasy at that point and found it replaced by frustration as I backtracked. My map of the year to come has been plotted with a list of objectives and I stewed about the implications of failing to satisfy a goal so early in this yearlong personal quest. A fog to match my surroundings descended on my outlook as I skied towards the car.
“At least you’re out there, dipshit.”
The voice in my head isn’t my own; it’s that of a particular friend, a person who doesn’t mince their words with me. Their voice came through the fog in characteristic playfully deprecating terms and smacked me like a low branch in the forehead, leaving a welt of perspective. Given my respect for this person and their voice, I listened. I looked around. And yes, I was still out there, skiing through the woods on my own, the beauty – yes, still, despite the weather – of the landscape mine alone to monopolistically consume.
——-
I skied down out of the fog at higher elevations and back to the ski hill. Took my time traversing, redoubling my breakfast efforts to regain my nine-year-old eyes and recall the terrain. Skied to the top of a bowl and was suddenly struck by recognition: This is where it happened. The visceral memory of fear. A knot in my childhood stomach. But then the unexpected: a grin across my adult face. Though there was no powder on this spring day, below me, again, was the same snowy playground that had drawn me into it thirty years ago: the natural ramps ripe for carving, the drifts, my line. I dropped in, turned the same GS arcs, aired the same little hits, relived the joy of that day before the bottom had dropped out.
The snow didn’t fall away this time, not ten feet, not six inches. There was nothing to undermine the moment, no necessary rescue or snowmobile evacuation to safety. Just a slow sliding to a stop beside the burned-out skeleton of a lodge and a grin that could have – that did – burn away the thickest of fogs.
As I threw my skis over my shoulder and walked across the parking lot to my car, an act that could have represented failure, was instead a moment to reflect on the fact that while certain experiences and the emotions they entail – such as that of a scared nine-year-old boy – leave us little self-determination of the nature and scope of our memories from those events, we get to choose what we make of the majority of our days and our interpretations of how they unfold. Thirty years later I missed an objective on Forbidden Plateau, but thanks to a piece of sage subconscious advice from a friend and a little bit of serendipity I crossed off an experience in my backyard that I couldn’t have foreseen or even imagined: a return to youth, an overwriting of fear, an ecstasy of the unexpected.
"I have a homesickness for a country that isn't mine...the steppes, the solitude, the eternal snows and big skies up there haunt me. One remains permanently engulfed in the silence where only the wind sings, in the solitudes almost naked of greenery, the chaos of fantastic rocks, dizzying peaks and horizons of blinding light."
~ Alexandra David-Neel
Castlecrag Mountain Ski Tour, Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, BC: A stellar day of solitude - apart from the occasional Whiskyjack - in my backyard mountains.
(All photos: iPhone5)