Test Prints & Contact Sheet
After learning the Darkroom procedures in order to produce a print from a negative, I decided to delve further to make some of my own test prints by renting out a medium format camera and a light meter from the college store. I wanted to get to grips with the camera before jumping straight to it, allowing me to experiment with it further and to understand the possible considerations and issues that may block my progress. Whilst on location, I did examine my ideas and explored them from a broad perspective, rather than specific reflections, I wanted to mainly experiment with printing different images off and gaining a complete knowledge of how to manage and how to print medium format. I travelled back to Barnsley and took photographs of the demolition taking place on Barnsley Market, which can be seen on the contact sheet, in a documentation of its history, reflecting back from the medium, but the subject is contemporary. The photographs also display a documentation of Leeds, early one Monday morning around 8am.
First we made the contact sheets, by using a contact strip holder and cutting the negatives into a row of 4 we were able to slot them into the negative carrier. Whilst working under the Enlarger switched off, we then applied a fresh sheet of photo paper emulsion side up on the baseboard under the Enlarger and placed the negatives on top of the photo paper (emulsion down), laying the glass down on top. Depending on the height of the Enlarger, depends on the time of the exposure, however, this is a test strip so the whole idea of it is to find out the correct exposure time to develop a correct print. We used an exposure time of 32 seconds, this allowed us to get a huge range of different exposures on the contact sheets. To gather a range of different exposures, use an opaque board whilst the timer is set, expose the image on white light with a filter of 2.5 for two mins, then cover a small area in the corner with the board for another two seconds. Once the light goes out after the two seconds, move the board up about 2mm up and expose for four seconds. Repeat this procedure, continuing doubling each time and move, until reaching the edge of the page or calculating to a total of 32 seconds exposure time - that is when the contact sheet is done and ready for developing. To develop the image at the sink, you use the three separate trays and the designated tounges for each the separate trays. The first tray is the developer and the photograph stays in for one and a half minutes, constant agitation with the alkaline designated tounges. After the time is up, the photograph is then placed face down in the second tray, a stop bath for 30 seconds, and then in the third tray (the Fix) agitating it intermittently for four minutes. Finally, soon as the four minutes are up, grab the photograph with the tounges and insert it into the slide to the cold bath. Here, when the image is in the cold bath you are able to analyse the print and examine which exposure time works the best for your image, like the second example shown below. The images aim to have a maximum tonal range; strong black, grey and white areas in the print, so taking this into consideration choose the exposure time that displays the best example of this. Now, to the develop this into a print, you take the exposure time you believe works the best on the test print sheet with the chosen negative, for example, 8 seconds with a filter of 3.5 (remember the Filter on the Enlarger increases or decreases the contrast of the image, so this is a creative decision by the photographer, but if changing you must also consider the effect it may cause to the overall exposure of the image). So, if my photograph had the correct exposure at 8 seconds with a filter of 3.5, I would insert the selected negative into the negative carrier of the switched off Enlarger, once in, then project the image onto the board. After this, use a pen/pencil with a piece of card in the Masking Frame to set the dimensions to 10x8, with White Light. You set the Masking Frame depending on the size of the photographic paper and the size of the print you wish to make, in this case, we’re printing at photographic paper size 10x8. The image should be projected onto the board at the specific dimensions, this is where you use a Focus Finder over the projection in order to maintain maximum focus in the final image. Correct the small black line seen in the finder to your eye, then use the focus knob on the side of the Enlarger to adjust it until the Silver Halides are seen (small grain). Once these are seen, it clarifies the maximum overall focus for the image. Next, adjust the lens so the aperture is wide open around f4, then changed to Bright Light, set the Filter to what the creative decision was decided after the test strip, in my case, I used the filter 3.5. I set my exposure time onto the timer, and exposed the photographic paper, finalising the image by developing using the same procedures in the three trays. If the image still doesn’t appeal to you or if the exposure/contrast is wrong, use this print as a test for the next one in order to create the perfect photographic print.
With my print, I struggled to gain the correct exposure of the image, as seen on the example below. I originally chose a fifteen second exposure time from the result of my test strip, with a filter of 4, and then a fourteen-second exposure with a filter of 3.5 and still was unable to gain correct exposure and a maximum range of tonal values. So, I asked for assistance and Eddie explained to me the ‘Dodging and Burning’ techniques, in an attempt to reveal colour in the overexposed white sky. Dodging and Burning is an essential aspect in the Darkroom process, it is exactly the same as D&B on Photoshop. Dodging reduces the exposure of the specific area and Burning increases the exposure of the specific area. For my case, I had to use the Burning technique as the sky is overexposed because additional exposure would make it too dark. The cure is to add additional light only to the white area. This will be adding additional exposure to an area that looks dark on the enlarger image as you view it in the paper. To do this, you cut a hole in cardboard or use your hand in a cup shape to project a beam of light back onto the paper after the main exposure. All of the photographs produced in the darkroom, unless they are ultimate perfect exposure (very unlikely) will most definitely need to use the Dodging and Burning methods - I am glad I have already explored it so if any more issues a raise with overexposed/underexposed areas of the print I can easily amend.
I am happy with my first ever darkroom prints and contact sheet, I have understood the process well and feel like I could step into the darkroom by myself and develop film independently. I know how to fix and correct exposures, manually on the camera and in the darkroom, so in the next shoot, I will focus more on the ‘Reflections’ idea - exploring it further with the medium format.
Photograph of Test Strip in Contact Sheet, showing the multiple exposures and times for my personal decision based on the creative outcome. I chose exposure time of 16 seconds.
Photograph of Test Strip in Contact Sheet, showing the multiple exposures and times for my personal decision based on the creative outcome.
Photograph of Contact Sheet
Photograph of the print enlarged, with the wrong exposure of 13 seconds.
Photograph of print on the wrong side of the photographic paper (by Jack).
Photograph of the print at 15/16 seconds.
Photograph of Image from Contact Sheet, not enlarged.
Here is another print that I made during this session.
Photograph of Test Strip, ranging from 2 seconds to 32 exposure time. I chose to use 16 seconds exposure but to reduce the exposure time slightly to 12 seconds with the filter still at 3.5.
Photograph of print enlarged at 12-second exposure with filter 3.5. The print looked flat, so I wanted to add more depth in the image, I increased the filter to 4 (increasing the contrast) and increased the exposure time to a second more at 13 seconds.
Photograph of the print at 13 seconds exposure and filter 4, I can’t detect much of a difference, however, the contrast has slightly increased. I really like this print, I believe it a great documentation to the destruction of the Barnsley Market - soon to be historical.