October 2, 2018: Letโs Have Some Kimchi
Itโs been almost two months since I left Seoul and had to start adjusting back to my life in Los Angeles. Having experienced multiple culture shocks throughout the summer, I feel obliged to write about my own stories with how I tackled the different environment I had to adjust to in South Korea; and my experience with reverse culture shock after coming back home made me realize that it would also be an interesting blog to write about, since I believe that I was not and will not be the only one to have lived through it. So, in the next few blogs, I will talk about the South Korean culture shock and reverse culture shock.
์๋ ํ์ธ์,
What is culture shock? University of Iowa defines culture shock as โpronounced reactions to the psychological disorientation most people experience when they move for an extended period of time into a culture markedly different from their ownโ. It is the feeling of not belonging whenever someone transitions to a new place, a new city, a new state, or a new country. It is more than just adjusting to the timezone difference, but encompasses all the changes and adjustment in language, food, weather, people, history, politics, and daily routines. It might be a familiar feeling to those overcome with wanderlust - a feeling that drives their minds to stay open, a signal for more exploration, and a means to gain more knowledge about a country.
I am from Los Angeles, which has the highest population of Korean immigrants and Korean-Americans in the United States. I am from an area in Los Angeles that is packed with Asian restaurants, and in which the Korean culture is ever so palpable. Koreatown, which houses the largest Korean population outside of the Korean peninsula after China, is a well-celebrated enclave within Los Angeles. It offers the most delicious restaurants and cafes that are outside the generic American fast food chains and Starbucks; and with the rise of Korean presence in the entertainment industry, the Korean culture is becoming much more celebrated than it already was.
With that said, Korean culture has been part of every Angelenoโs life - mine included. Frankly, I do admit that I enjoy listening to Korean music and find myself having a stronger preference to Korean dramas more than Western songs and television shows. I have a general knowledge of basic Korean etiquette within a home, in a restaurant, and in basic social setting. So, that basically gives me a free pass with the culture shock after arriving in Seoul, right? Wrong! No matter how much Korean dramas or films Iโve seen, or however many Korean barbeque restaurants Iโve eaten in, none of those had ever prepared me for the culture shock that I had to endure in South Korea. Here is my list:
1. Subway Culture
Los Angeles thrives on its car culture. There is a very big stigma regarding public transportation usage, and Angelenos will always rationalize not walking to go to the store that is only ten minutes away.
Fun fact: itโs sunny in Los Angeles all year, though we have a huge population with vitamin D deficiency, since it seems like the only times Angelenos go out and feel the sun is when they leave their cars.
I donโt have to hide the fact that the public transportation in Los Angeles is not to be trusted at all. Silver Line buses arrive 10 minutes late on a regular basis, and sometimes would be almost an hour late. Subway lines, such as the Red Line and Blue line would sometimes miss a schedule entirely. If the Metro schedule tells you that the Metro Rapid bus 770 would arrive at your stop at 1:15 PM, expect it to be there at either 12:48 PM or 1:39 PM. Metro drivers donโt have any regards to schedule or timing, so thatโs probably why Angelenos donโt trust the public transportation at all. Itโs also very difficult to go from point A to point B without having to take multiple subways and buses, since not all of the locations are accessible via the public transportation.
Contrast that to the Seoul subway station, in which the stigma is basically non-existent. They have less than 15-minute intervals between subways and buses, which minimizes the possibility of crowds, long lines, and insane wait times. Everything is accessible via the subways alone, and with a huge population of citizens incorporating public transportation into their daily lives, the funding for the maintenance of the stations and subway trains is insane.
The floors are very clean and Iโm not worried holding on to the metal bars in the subway trains. Expect the subways and buses to arrive on schedule, so you donโt have to worry about missing your ride, even in the middle of the night going home after a long day at work (seriously, the buses in Los Angeles stop working at 9 PM, and itโs so difficult to work around that schedule when Iโm trying to stay in the library all night to study - Uber and Lyft are options, but the prices do add up).
Not only the subways are very timely, the people of Seoul themselves are very orderly. There are designated seats for pregnant women (colored pink), the elderly and the disabled people (the seats closest to the subway doors on each opposite end). In Los Angeles, these seats are mainly for priority. If there are no pregnant women, elderly, or disabled people around, the seats would be taken until they arrive; not in Seoul. Even when the subway trains are packed at rush hour, these seats will remain empty until the designated occupants take them.
Important: Donโt disregard this rule since you will be met with angry comments and shame from the Korean subway riders, and thatโs never a fun experience.
Also, people form lines to walk up the stairs after getting off the subways in a neat and tidy manner. They donโt rush to walk or run in front of someone with the fear of missing their subways, because once again - Seoul subways have a set schedule that itโs very rare to miss your ride. If you know the time of when your subway leaves the station, expect them to leave at that very minute.
Side note: while taking the escalator, stand on the right side and walk on the left side.
The social life within the subway stations are also reminiscent of Tokyo and Hong Kongโs. There are stores, restaurants, massage parlors, and even a mall in all of Seoulโs subway stations. While waiting for the subway, you can buy croquettes (ํฌ๋ก์ผ) with different fillings in a bakery, heat up some cup noodles or doshirak (Korean lunch boxes) and eat them at the dining sections in the convenience stores, or you can even shop for some clothes, wallets, jewelries, and bags. Try using the subway stations in Los Angeles, and all youโll see are unpainted gray walls, a group of homeless men stationed by the Tap Card machines, and dirty floors that seem to not have been cleaned since the station was opened.
2. Accessibility
Itโs without a doubt a common knowledge that Seoul is obviously a small city, despite its booming economy and huge population; but a small location means that everything is within a walking distance, so that calls for a celebration (letโs pretend Singapore doesnโt exist, since my friend told me you can walk Singapore from end to end in a day).
Everything is spread out in Los Angeles. If you want to buy some snacks at a 7/11, you might have to drive about 10 minutes for the closest one. A quick coffee break? The closest Starbucks is a 5-minute drive! Planning to eat before headed for a night out? The next few eateries are just 20 minutes away via car. Donโt be fooled though! 10 minutes by car is very close for an Angeleno, since everything is far apart from one another. This is not the case in Seoul, and this is very apparent at night.
Night life in Seoul is very accessible. Clubs and bars line each other side-by-side, with a convenience store or two stationed right in front of each one to accommodate the drinkers who canโt afford to buy another glass of alcohol inside the bar.
Convenience stores are another culture on their own, since unlike Los Angeles, they are used as a means for quick social gatherings. Convenience stores in Seoul have a designated dining area, equipped with microwaves and hot water dispensers for whatever item you bought. Since theyโre open 24/7 and are ubiquitous, people can just stop by at any time and sit down to eat, may it be to enjoy their time alone or to talk to their friends over cup ramen or tonkatsu.
On top of the clubs, bars, and convenience stores, there is also a large number of pojangmacha tents, although they have been in rapid decline recently due to the rise of trashes they leave. โThey donโt look nice and make the city look dirtyโ, my Korean friends would say. Pojangmacha (ํฌ์ฅ๋ง์ฐจ), or temporary tents that serve quick bites and, most importantly, soju, are also found alongside the streets of Seoul if you donโt plan to sit down in a loud bar.
And whatโs a Seoul night life without its noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ), or the Korean version of karaoke. In Korean, norae (๋ ธ๋) meansย โsongโ and bang (๋ฐฉ) meansย โroomโ. There are two main types of noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ): one you pay by the hour and one you pay per song. An hourly rate would be as low as โฉ8,000 ($7), or you can opt to pay per song for only โฉ500 ($0.45) per song. Compare these prices to the hourly rates in Koreatown in Los Angeles that start from $25-$30 an hour.
Noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ) in Seoul has never-ending options of songs to sing along to. Korean songs, Top 100 Western songs, Chinese songs, Japanese songs, Filipino songs, Vietnamese songs, Indonesian songs, Spanish songs, Russian songs, you name it.
Walking along any streets in Seoul, may it be in Hongdae, Myeongdong, Gangnam, Anam, Kondae, there will be the word noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ) in flashing neon and LCD lights. You can purchase your soju in a noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ), although a little more expensive; but, donโt fret. A convenience store is always there just a few meters from the entrance ready to save your wallet and contribute to making your musical nights much more memorable.
If you and your friend circle are not the types to socialize in a convenience store or a noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ) - fear not! There is a huge industry on PC bang (PC๋ฐฉ) in Seoul. In Korean, PC meansย โpersonal computerโ and bang (๋ฐฉ) meansย โroomโ.ย PC๋ฐฉ is an Internet gaming center that caters to the gamers, the introverts, and the social media fanatics. You may gain access to aย PC๋ฐฉ through membership or one-time uses.
For membership, you just need to apply for one and they would give you a card for your login information, which charges you by the hour every time you use the computers.
For one-time users, you pick up a card on the reception that gives you the login information, which gives you access to the computers. The timer starts once you login, and you pay for the total amount right after you logout and give the card back to the receptionist.
The hourly rate is not very expensive. Expensive PC๋ฐฉ are equipped with large screens and more advanced software for the gamers, which have prices ranging from โฉ1,200 to โฉ1500/hour, or $1 to $1.30. Personally, I donโt need big screens to write my blog or do my assignments in, so I opt out for the regular computer screens, which costs me about โฉ900 to โฉ1,200 an hour, which is equivalent to $0.80 to $1.
Once again, Seoul thrives on accessibility and since South Koreans spend an average of five hours playing computer games per day, there will be a need for food - and yes, there are a lot of choices of food. There are snack bars, dining areas, and the receptionist even delivers food to your computer. You have options from chips, to finger foods like fries, and to full-course meals like a tonkatsu and bulgogi set. And of course, there are the never-ending supply of soju, if needed.
Soju is very cheap in Seoul, and many convenience stores would sell them for about โฉ1,200 to โฉ1500, which is about $1 to $1.30 (soju is cheaper than bottled water, just saying). Because of the accessibility of the drinking areas and soju, South Koreaโs culture revolves around drinking (sometimes heavy drinking), therefore there are a lot of places where you can sit down with a group of friends and drink after work.
Many of these drinking places are around college campuses to cater towards the students vying for a social circle or are finding ways to de-stress themselves from the university responsibilities. In Los Angeles, the drinking culture are only within certain cities: mainly West Hollywood and Pasadena, two cities on opposite ends of the county. It is very difficult to gain access to social areas when youโre situated in the middle of the county or away from West Hollywood and Pasadena - once again, these cities are very hard to access via public transportation.
Not in Seoul. Even if Anam is considered empty compared to the lively Hongdae, which caters to the students of Hongik University, and Itaewon, which caters to the foreign population, Anam is still packed with social areas that are meant for students and teachers to drink in.
My favorite part is having to drink with friends and getting back to our dormitory or our housing by walking, which proves how close everything really is. Plus, if you are looking to experience Seoul drinking culture, Hongdae and Itaewon are easily accessible via public transportation, so finding the means to get there is never a problem.
Frankly, there will be nights where you just donโt want to go out and stay in (perhaps by yourself or with your friends), and Seoulโs delivery service culture is surreal. Almost every restaurant, if not all of them, have a delivery service that is easily accessible by a tap of a finger. You may call or make an order online (Korean reading skills are required if itโs not ordered through a phone call), and the food will be swiftly delivered via a motorcycle in less than half an hour.
They even write you cute littleย โthank youโ notes in Korean as a token of appreciation, and those always brighten up my day. One of the post-it notes that came with a chicken wing order saidย โ์ฃผ๋ฌธํด ์ฃผ์ ์ ๊ฐ์ฌํฉ๋๋ค. ๋ง์๊ฒ ๋์๊ณ ํ๋ณตํ์ธ์!!^^โ (Jumunhae jusheoseo gamsahamnida. Mashitge deushigo haengboghaseyo).
The post-it note translates toย โThank you for ordering. Eat deliciously and be happy!โ Translation courtesy of Minki-hyung (๋ฏผ๊ธฐํ).
Accessibility is staple South Korean culture: from convenience stores lining up next to each other blocks on end and to Seoulโs fast delivery service, thereโs never an excuse to not spend a day in the country without Korean food and a bottle of soju... or two!
3. Confucianism Culture
Thereโs one C word you have to fully understand once you land in South Korea, and that is Confucianism. The whole Korean culture revolves around this - from greeting, to talking, to eating, to drinking, and to socializing.
Eldest Culture - when eating and drinking, the eldest member on the table always has to be served first. Donโt pick up your chopsticks, utensils, or drinking glasses until after the eldest does. When drinking alcohol, younger people should never point the bottom of their glasses towards the eldest. Drink facing away, and with both hands.
Refusing an Offer - when someone older than you offer you food or drink, you may not refuse that offer. This is a nice gesture of friendliness, especially if youโre drinking together for the first time. If you refuse the offer, that means youโre refusing the friendship and Koreans take that very personally.
Maknae (๋ง๋ด) Culture - the youngest is always asked to pass down the food or to refill everybodyโs drinks. Be familiar with the term, maknae (๋ง๋ด/pronounced mangnae), which means the youngest of the group. Since the Korean culture relies heavily on age order, there are many traits and responsibilities that come with being the maknae (๋ง๋ด) of the group. He/she is expected to be polite, obedient, and respectful to the people order than him/her. Once labelled the maknae (๋ง๋ด), he/she will perform everything his/her elders ask him/her to do. The elders will take care of their maknae (๋ง๋ด) in return.
Donโt be surprised when the first question a Korean asks you when you meet is โ๋ช ์ด์ด์์โ (myeot salieyo?/how old are you?). This is the main means of establishing where they are in the conversation, since Korean verbs are distinguished based on age and politeness (whether or not they conjugate the verbs as if theyโre talking to someone older, someone of the same age, or someone younger).
Addressing people older than you differs based on gender.
If youโre a male, you address older males as ํ (hyung); and older females as ๋๋ (noona).
If youโre a female, you address older males as ์ค๋น (oppa); and older females as ์ธ๋ (unni).
Basic Dining Etiquette - Korean chopsticks and utensils are longer than its Chinese and Japanese counterparts for a reason. Donโt lift up your bowl to eat your rice or noodles. Absolutely no slurping either.
Korean Table Setup - there is a setup that all Korean tables follow (from the left side to the right side): rice bowl and banchan (side dishes), main dish, spoon, chopstick, then soup. Hot foods, such as soup, are always placed on the right; while cold foods are placed on the left. Banchan, and kimchi, are placed behind the sauces by the rice bowl.
Non-verbal Politeness - donโt ever give or receive anything with one hand. It always has to be done with both hands - if not with both hands, make sure to have your non-receiving hand hold your receiving arm. This goes for shaking hands and paying as well.
4. Fashion
Need I say more? Donโt ever leave your place and walk the streets of Seoul dressed like an American in sweat pants and t-shirt. Not only will you get the disapproving looks of the natives, but you will feel very foreign and different. Everybody knows how much the Koreans love to take care of their looks. From skin care to plastic surgery. If you take the time to pay attention to your surroundings in Seoul, you will notice how much mirrors there are: from restaurants, to noraebang (๋ ธ๋๋ฐฉ) rooms, and even in the most random places like the subway stations. Hey! Gotta look good while riding the subway, right?
Korean culture revolves around being fashionable at all times. Donโt be surprised when you see guys wearing makeup, the young Koreans with their hairs dyed, or natives dressing in layers even under the hot and humid summer weather.
It wonโt be long until you start wanting to join in the fashion game and walk around Gangnam feeling like you belong in Gangnam.
I have mentioned and talked about this extensively in multiple blogs, such as in โAs the Sun Sets - The Final Golden Hoursโ, but South Koreans have an obsession with pastel shirts with a random English word written across the front side. Reddit User Mr_Bakgwei talked about this East Asian culture of how English looks โcoolโ in a thread asking the culture behind random English words. The user talks about someone he knows from Chaozhou, a city in Guangdong, China, who makes millions of shirts with random English words, despite quitting school after the ninth grade and does not speak a word in English.
Certain letters are considered โbetter looking than others, such as J, P, B, Y, and Uโ. If the word looks โcoolโ enough to be in a shirt, but contains the โless good lookingโ letters such as I and O, the designers would swap it out to a more acceptable-looking letter, such as J, T, and V. This is very prominent in shirts in East Asia, where South Korea lies, since youโll find shirts that will say โGeometryโ,ย โAlaska Whalesโ, โParagraphโ, and โBabylonianโ.
Initially, I find it very hilarious whenever I see someone wearing a shirt that randomly says โVeracityโ orย โCheeseโ, but I do understand the hype surrounding random English words on shirts. Los Angeles does have a culture equivalent to this one where people wear clothes that have random French words written on it. Words likeย โBonjourโ andย โMerciโ are printed across tote bags and laptop covers. Francophilia, the love for all-things French, is a billion-dollar industry in the Western world. Stores like Forever 21 and Anthropologie would sell t-shirts in ridiculously high prices just because it says the phraseย โCโest la vieโ with a sketch of the Eiffel Tower on the corner. So, this East Asian culture on having random English words printed is not so new and foreign after all. I was just able to be in the feet of the French people when they see Americans wearing a shirt with words that mean so random to them.
I did go back home to Los Angeles with a couple shirts with random English words written though! I caved in to the culture, since some shirts look so nice. I bought clothes that said โSummer vibesโ in English and โใใใฐใฃใฆโ (ganbatte) in Japanese, which is the equivalent to โFightingโ or โI wish you good luck!โ with a knitted corgi on the top left side of my shirt. Japanese characters appeal to the Americans too, by the way. My friend in Korean class was wearing a shirt designed with an ad for a squid restaurant written in all Japanese today - so this culture is not just centered around English and French.
I walked around Seoul wearing those shirts feeling like a native.
When in Rome....
5. Cleanliness
Fun fact: public trash cans are a rarity in Seoul, so you better hold on to that trash of yours until the next convenience store. An American reading this would probably think that since there are little to no trash cans in the city, people will be littering every chance they get, but he/she is more than wrong. On top of Seoul natives worrying how they look, they also take a lot of time making sure their city is as clean and tidy. Itโs very rare to see cigarette butts or bags of chips on the sidewalks, and this was something I really appreciated while being in South Korea.
Fun fact: Hongdae (pictured above) is always crowded, but itโs never as dirty as Itaewon (pictured below), which is the area in Seoul that houses most of the expatriates and foreigners. There is an unspoken stereotype on how foreigners are very dirty and like to litter a lot.
To further show how clean and organized South Korea is with their trash, in some cases there are trash cans in Seoul that are meant to separate everything.
For example, in McDonaldโs in Anam (first picture below), there are seven areas to place your trash: bottles, leftover food, remaining juice and soda, soda cups, plastic lids, straws, and utensils. The bibimbap cup place I frequent in Anam has four areas (second picture below): one for the bibimbap cup, one for the leftovers, one for the water cup, and one for the utensils. In some cases, such as the Dokkaebi Night Market (๋๊นจ๋น์ผ์์ฅ) in Banpo Hangang Park, there will be people getting paid to separate the trash for you. Just hand them your tray and cups, and the rest is history.
I find this culture so hard to adjust to - not that I litter myself.
Thatโs all I will be talking about in this blog, since I plan to expand on other cultural practices that are very unique to Seoul in the next posts:
โTteokbokki Juseyo!โ - an introduction to Korean street food
โThe Visuals and the Vibesโ - xenophobia, cafe culture, PDA, and the K-entertainment culture
โThe Art of Coming Homeโ - my reverse culture shock experience
Until then!
๊ณ ๋ง์์, Chris ใํฌ๋ฆฌ์คใ












