Shelby Experiencing Accra

NYU sophomore in Accra from Spring 2013. I am expecting the unexpected and ready for this life changing experience. : )

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Where Am I?

It feels so unreal. There is no way I am already back in the States. I cannot even begin to understand how fast my experience went. I feel as though I have made a life and home in Accra, and now I am “home” to a place that I feel like I barely know. One thing I am sure about is how truly meaningful my experience in Ghana was, and how much I sincerely miss not only Ghana but also all the people I met there.

Being back in the States I instantly noticed things that I never would have had I not gone to Ghana. The individualistic mentality in the American society is very different from the community like feel that Ghana has. This is just an initial reaction that I had to being back in the States. I know, just as it took time for me to adjust to Ghana, it will likewise take time for me to adjust back to the States; it is all part of the process.

I am so immensely grateful for this opportunity to not only study in Ghana, but to live there and be immersed into the Ghanaian culture. There is absolutely more traveling in my very near future. 

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Leaving??

I sat in my room today, as I took a study break, looking around. It is hard to believe that my time here in Ghana is coming to a close. I looked into my malaria medicine bottle and realized there are so few pills left. I set off with an entire bottle, excitement, and readiness for a new adventure, and have accumulated incredible experiences while here. I have to say if given the opportunity I would stay a bit longer, but all good things must come to an end. As my time winds down I definitely am doing my best to take advantage of every minute of every day to enjoy the sunshine, nice people, smells, noises, foods, and the endless other great things that Accra has to offer. : )

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Friendships

As my time here in Ghana begins to wind down, I cannot help but think about all the friends that I have made throughout this semester. Ghanaians are some of the friendliest people I have ever met, so naturally I made many friends. I have befriended not only my colleagues, but also people that I pass daily on the streets. Every Monday after I go to the gym I would stop by this lovely woman’s vegetable stand and buy my vegetables for the week. As each week passed we began to converse more until we ended up having full-fledged personal conversations. When I went to her yesterday to buy my vegetables for the week, I began telling her how I was getting ready to leave; we then had a moment. She thanked me for my business and I thanked her for proving me with wonderful fresh vegetables and always greeting me with a smile. It really is amazing how quickly I have formed relationships with people here in Ghana. But leaving Ghana is not the end of those relationships; they will continue to grow and prosper. I am so internally grateful for each and every one of these unique relationships. 

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Farewell Dinner

This past Thursday night was our farewell dinner. We ended at the same restaurant that we had our first group lunch the day after we arrived. We truly have come full circle. From being confused on where we were, trying to buy our Nokia cell phones, and not knowing what we were eating, to our confident, azonto dancing selves! It truly has been a semester full of endless knowledge that will be useful forever. Thank you NYU Accra for everything you have done to make this semester so special!!

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PLANTAINS

Oh man how I am going to miss this delicious food. Plantains come in a multiplicity of forms. Some of which are chips, grilled, fried, boiled, or baked. I have to say my original favorite was definitely the chips but I have had a switch in these last few weeks to grilled plantains. You can get these off the street, 1 for 50 peswas ($0.25). They are a great snack, part of a meal, or desert. They have a sweet kick to them and are always warm and gooey. I had never had a plantain before coming to Ghana, but they definitely have changed my life. There absolutely will be plantains in my kitchen back in the states!!

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Clothing

People in the Ghanaian society typically have a majority of their clothing made or tailored for them. The process begins by buying the fabric either in the market (Makola, Keneshi, or the like), or at a stand on the street. You then proceed to the seamstress who takes your measurements, you talk your design over with them and come back in a week and bam you have custom made clothing. It is rather inexpensive compared to what making clothing in the United States would cost and a lot of fun because you can decide exactly how you would like your outfits to look. Here are a few pieces that I have had made, by my two amazing seamstresses, Margarie and Lami. 

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Beacon House

Since coming to Accra I have been working at Beacon House, which is a near by orphanage. I have met the most incredible, talented, bright children here and have formed endless bonds with them. I cannot even imagine not seeing these children every day.

A typical day for me begins with me waking up the children from their nap, which is actually near impossible!! They then have snack, followed by free time for me to play with all of the children. I frequently end up jumping on the trampoline with them which I am definitely not complaining about! I then have with a few children I would with 1 on 1 on reading, the alphabet, math, or any other education topics they may need help with. Following our “school session” I always read the child a book and then we head out to play some more before the older children return from school. As the older children are getting home from school, we always chat about their days and the exams they had, which they seem to have just about every day, and then begin their homework. At times it can be a challenge to keep them focused, but they have an incredible desire to learn which makes working with them such a joy! I cannot help but smile as I think about spending time with each of these children. There is never a day that these children do not surprise me with their polite and respectful attitudes, and their willingness to help one another. I am like a proud mother and I love every second of it.

I am so blessed to have had this experience and opportunity to get to know these children and spend my time in Ghana with them! <3 They all have a place in my heart. 

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Family

Last night I had the privilege of watching films that were produced by my colleagues. Throughout the course of the night viewing these films I began to finally understand my relationship with them, as I felt so proud of each and every one of them after seeing their film. It is as simply as we have become a family. We have seen each other through the ups and downs, picked people up when they needed it, lent your should to someone in need, went for a walk with someone who is stressed, and have just been there for one another throughout these last five months. I cannot imagine having experienced Ghana with anyone else. This group of people and myself now share something so special and intimate. We have many inside jokes based on the Ghanaian culture that no one else will fully understand. I guess the point is, I finally get it, these people have become my family and I am going to miss not spending every waking second of every day with them. <3

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Rhythm

Rhythm in Ghana is unlike rhythm anywhere else I have ever been. Ghanaians walk in, make food, do chores, and care for their children in rhythm. It really is something so different and incredible. At first it may be easy to pass over this rhythmic way of life, but with time it easily becomes more visible. Fufu, a typical Ghanaian dish is pounded. One to two people pound the yam or cassava while another turns over the substance with their hand. This is all done in a specific rhythm which keeps everyone’s hands safe. If either the pounder or turner happens to get off rhythm they risk having their hand getting smashed. So although the rhythm is beautiful, it also serves a very important purpose.  Additionally, the rhythmic way of life plays a huge part in the production of Ghanaian music.

In my African Popular Music Class I have had the privilege of learning some of these rhythms from Professor John Collins, a very well known musician in Ghana. Music in Ghana is not in 4 time as typical music is, instead it in a 6, 8 rhythm which does not allow it to ‘fit in a box,’ but rather extend outside that box and fill a large space. It is a very interesting concept, and I am lucky to be learning these rhythms on beautifully handcrafted local drums. It is important to remember that rhythm is everywhere and in turn look for it. It may be easy to miss it, but once you begin looking for it you will be able to enjoy the lovely melodies that it brings to everyday life.

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Wli Falls

Today I took a break from writing papers, preparing presentations, and studying for exams and embarked on my last journey while here in Ghana to Wli Waterfalls. Located in the Volta Region of Ghana, Wli Water Falls is the tallest waterfall in West Africa. I hiked past Mount Kilimanjaro which is the largest peak in Africa and extends between Ghana and Togo. Ultimately the beauty of the rainforest was astonishing. Due to the movement of the water, we were even able to swim in the waterfall, and I believe for the first time ever I stood directly under a waterfall; what an incredible adrenaline rush that was. It was loud, windy, and hard to see at times, but I touched the back wall that the water was bellowing down on and it was unconceivable. Additional beauty in the trip lies with the people I was with. Spending every waking moment with these amazing people for the last 4 months has been incredible and I am glad I got to go on one last adventure with them, another amazing excursion in the books. : )

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Food

Food in Ghana is spicy, starchy, centered around meat or fish, and consists of large portions. There is typically a starch such a fufu, kenkey, or banku that is placed in a stew and eaten with your hands. Fufu is yam or cassava pounded into a dough-like consistency, kenkey is ground maize that is fermented and sour tasting, and banku is a mixture of the two in that it is cassava and maize that is pounded and then fermented. There are a variety of stews that you may possibly eat your starch with such as groundnut stew, okro stew, or garden eggs stew to name a few.

Beyond these dishes some popular meals here are plantains, red red, waakye, and jollof rice. Plantains are served in a variety of ways, fried, boiled, grilled, with spices, in chip form, or an assortment of other ways. Ultimately, plantains are sweet and delicious. Another incredible local dish, and my personal favorite is red red. Red red is a tomato base stew that has a variety of vegetables and beans in it. A traditional one will also contain fish. I have had the pleasure of making red red with a Ghanaian friend here so I hope to be able to recreate it when I get home. Another typical lunch dish is waakye. Waakye consists of brown rice, beans, and shiito. The brown rice and beans are cooked together with normally take on a smoky flavor that calls for a bit of an acquired taste. The shiito is then placed on top of it, which is a spicy red sauce that contains fish. Lastly, jollof rice is a typical dish that is served with a variety of meats and sauces. When making jollof rice you make the base to a tomato stew and then throw the rice in there to cook. The rice then takes on a lovely red color and the flavors of the stew. It is definitely a delicious choice. Ultimately the food has been an experience in itself. I have enjoyed seeing, smelling, and learning how to cook these new dishes very much. I indeed will be missing some of these as I go home.

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Market Time

Markets in Ghana are organized chaos. To an outsider like myself the layout makes little sense, but to the Ghanaian people it is a clear design making their shopping experience the most pleasurable possible. The market place can be overwhelming at times, but the key is to just look around, take it all in, and laugh when the Ghanaian woman begins to yell at your for not buying her goods and standing in her shop. I can now say I enjoy my experiences at the various markets, and will definitely be missing them. In visiting Nima this past week I was able to snap a few shots of a typical market place. Don’t get lost.: )

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Rules of the Road…

There are none. Honestly. Since being in Ghana for over 4 months and traveling throughout the country I have yet to see even 1 speed limit sign, and that is only the beginning of the craziness. On the roads in Ghana it is every vehicle for itself. There are instances of cutting people off, rear-ending other vehicles, an occasional side swipe, driving towards opposing traffic, running red lights, and many other questionable practices. As a result of the driving scene, road trips can quickly turn into afternoons of praying. However, surprisingly it is all organized chaos. To an obruni the roads seem chaotic, but to a Ghanaian they are flowing along as usual. There is never an uneventful trip in a car here in Ghana, but hey that is what keeps a person young right? : )

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Widows Weaving Project

This experience was absolutely hands down one of the most touching ones yet. After a bit of a trek, we arrived in Bolgatanga. The village was very nice and some lovely children and women enthusiastically greeted us. We made our way to what I imagine was the center meeting place for the women. It was explained to us that these women all live together with their children because their parents did not have a son to carry on the family name. Because the parents were unable to conceive a male the fathers name is at risk. In order to continue the family name, the father sets aside one daughter to produce a son to continue the family name; this daughter is then visited by men in hopes of getting pregnant with a male child.

All the women in this village although very individual, have similar experiences and hardships, and therefore are able to all help one another and support each other; they are like one big family. Upon arrival we met with the head Mother who introduced the community and then we began learning how to weave baskets. I got up, began walking around to the women trying to show my interest in learning but they seemed hesitant. Finally I came upon Theresa; Theresa was standing with part of a basket in one hand, a cloth in the other, and simply observing the group. As a result of the language barrier it was a bit of a challenge to communicate, but I smiled and pointed to the basket and she set off teaching me. She actually spoke English well, although she said she was no good. She continued to encourage me as I went along with the basket, asking if I was tired and wanted her to take over. I learned that she has 2 children, Francesca who is 6 months old, and an older daughter who is about 5. We talked about our different interests, families, and lives. It was so inspiring to hear Theresa speak with such confidence and excitement about each topic we discussed. Regardless of all she has been through she refuses to let it get her down and that is truly inspiring.

As I continued to work on the basket, Theresa heard Francesca cry and quickly ran to her aid. So I sat alone and continued my basket with this incredible peace in my heart. As I sat there I heard the director of my program say we were going to give the supplies we brought to the community. I decided to listen as I continue working on the basket. All the sudden I heard a rumble of noise, excitement, yelling, chanting, and clapping. I looked up to see the most incredible site: the children of the community were all gathered around chanting “football, football, football,” referring to what Americans call soccer, and the women were dancing holding the footballs above their heads. Everyone in the community was gathered around, cheering, smiling, shouting, and dancing. It was extremely emotional for me to see these women who have been through so much never give up and get so excited over things that are so simply. I was moved to tears and just did not know what to do. I sat there with the half completed basket on my lap overwhelmed by emotions. Theresa, noticing my pause in work and tears on my cheek, comes over, grabs my hand, and escorts me to the circle to dance with her. It was honestly such a touching moment for me.

To be able to help these women who I am unable to even communicated with in words was amazing. I quickly learned that speaking is not the only way of communication. Our many gestures, smiles, and gifts meant a lot more to them than any words could have ever meant. I am truly grateful that I was able to meet each and every woman and child in this village and spend my afternoon with them. As much as they think we helped them, they helped me significantly more. 

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Pikworo Slave Camp

Slavery is a topic that is ever present in the world today but that is often silenced. It is silenced as a result of there being no one perpetrator and one victim, but rather countless perpetrators and victims. It would be totally irrational to point the finger at one tribe, ethnic group, or clan of people and say they caused slavery. Therefore, the topic is often kept quiet about.

While in Northern Ghana I had the honor of visiting Pikworo Slave Camp, a camp located on the Ghana, Burkina Faso border where slaves from all over West Africa were brought. Slave raids were common; people would enter a community and abduct people in order to sell them into slavery and make a profit. Once abducted the people would be sent to a slave camp where they would be kept until they were sold. These slave camps housed many people from various locations. This was done strategically in order to reduce the amount of possible communication. If the slaves were unable to communicate with one another easily, it makes it increasingly difficult to come up with a ‘code’ language in order to revolt against their master. So strategically people from Ghana, Benin, Togo, Burkina Faso, and other neighbor countries were brought to Pikworo. Here slaves were kept until they were sold off.

Not unique to Pikworo, but important to note is the beauty of these slave areas. Elmina Slave Castle, Sesami Slave Plantation, and Pikworo Slave Camp all had this factor. From the top level of the Elmina Slave Castle you had a beautiful view of the ocean; Sesami Planation, located on the top of a mountain, had a breathtaking view of the city; similarly Pikworo Slave Camp was located up in the hills with many breathtaking views. Because of the visible beauty today, it is hard to imagine the torture that was going on within the confinement of these spaces.

Having the opportunity to visit the Pikworo Slave Camp was a very eye opening experience. One thing the tour guide said that really stuck with me was, “and this was Africans doing this to their fellow Africans.” It is easy to get stuck in the racial binary thinking the white people did this to the black people, but the reality is not so. Africans were enslaving other Africans. It is extremely important to hear the story of slavery from both sides of the Atlantic Ocean, however it is not often taught this way. The more we see, hear, and experience the clearer the story will become.

Never Again..

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Tiehisuma Shea Butter Processing Centre

 An informative and interesting stop on our trip in Tamale was the Shea Butter Cooperative. Here we were shown the many steps that are taken when making Shea Butter. I personally have never been super into the usage of Shea Butter, however, I know a number of people here in Ghana that swear by it. Regardless, it was a very interesting experience.

I never realized how long of a process making lotion could be. The Shea Fruit is first purchased and then the workers abstract the nut. From there the nut is roasted, and then hand kneaded a number of times. Throughout each step of the process the Shea Butter takes on different constancies and colors and has different liquids at varies temperatures added to it in order to further the production. The women knead the Shea Butter by hand. As depicted in the photos above, they sit on the floor and knead the substance for hours. I can only imagine how strong that one arm of theirs must be. The entire process from start to finish takes days. Seeing the many steps and amount of time it takes to make such lotion will cause a person to think twice next time they are lathering their legs. : ) 

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Dr. Abdulai’s Clinic

I had the incredible opportunity to visit Dr. Abdulai’s clinic in the North East Region of Ghana about 2km from the Burkina Faso boarder. Dr. Abdulai is an incredible man you grew up extremely poor, but in light of his challenging situation got an education both in Ghana and abroad and became a doctor. He currently runs this clinic where patients are able to come in and be seen regardless of their ability to pay. It is run solely on donations. In addition to the drop in clinic, Dr. Abdulai has facilitates on the grounds were many of his patients are able to live.

My first impression of Dr. Abdulai is when he walked in to the covered sitting area, where the breeze was nicely blowing, in his shorts, t-shirt, and baseball cap, laughing. He sat down right beside one of his patients and first greeted them and then us. The way in which he talks to his patients in itself is uplifting. He does not speak down to them or speak simple because they may not understand. Instead he carries on interesting and often hilarious conversations with them. Even while talking to our group, he allowed the patients to interject their comments, which he would translate to English and share with us while often uncontrollably laughing. You could tell that he purely loves his job and what he is doing every day. He enjoys helping people and most of all seeing them happy.

The motto at the clinic is to not medicate mentally ill people, but rather to love them and show them that someone truly does care about them and enjoy their company. Through doing this, the patients desire to stay there at the clinic. Patients tend to find the environment to be a loving, welcoming, and encouraging opposed to hospitals where mentally ill patients can often be treated as less than a person. Dr. Abdulai shared with us that some hospitals in Ghana actually restrain mentally ill people, not allowing them to get up and move around freely. At Dr. Abdulai’s clinic the patients are all there on their own free will. At any time if they decide they want to leave they can simply walk out. A few of the people did choose to go home at different points, but after being home for a short amount of time would return because they simply are most happy at the clinic.

I saw many patients who had a psychological disorder, however they were happy. They were walking around the community carrying on conversations with themselves as well as Dr. Abdulai and simply enjoying their life. That is what it is all about, and Dr. Abdulai is helping many people have the best possible life they can. What an admirable man!