She's Gotta Cook! A Blog

One woman's obsession with cooking and baking ...

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BLIZZARD WEEKEND - BLIZZARD BAKING!

Toscakaka - Tosca Cake:  Simple and delicious!

The blizzard is weekend gave me the perfect excuse to not leave my kitchen!  I have been baking and cooking, and cooking and baking.  I baked a cake whose recipe I have been meaning to share for a while;  it’s called Toscakaka, a Scandinavian cake that consists of a light vanilla cake topped with a delicious almond caramel. I discovered this cake a few months ago…in the cookbook called Scandilicious Baking by Signe Johansen.   

My husband and I had this cake first a few months ago and we couldn’t believe the flavor:  simple and simply delicious. We were literally blown away by how dangerous this simple little cake was...I had to give it away... before we ate it all in one sitting.

This cake is either named after the opera Tosca.  Others say it’s named after Tuscany, where almonds are grown.  I don’t know…not sure that I care.  

I’m so happy to have found this recipe!  The cookbook has the ingredients listed by weight:  I have translated them into volume for those of you who don’t weigh. This cake is good for an afternoon snack, a dessert or breakfast!  It keeps very well also.   I guarantee this recipe is a keeper!  

Preheat oven to 350F. I butter and line a 9” round cake pan with parchment.  I also put strips of parchment under the round to create …’handles’ to pull up the cake a bit…the sides get sticky with the caramel.  See the photo below.  

CAKE:

3 eggs – large

¾ cup/150 g  white sugar

½ teas vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract

1 ¼ cup/150 g all-purpose flour

1 teas. Baking powder

¼ teas. Fine sea salt

5 tbls/75 g unsalted butter, melted

1/3 cup/75 ml buttermilk

CARAMEL:

9 tbls/125 g butter

1 cup lightly packed/125g light brown sugar

1 ½ cups/150 g sliced almonds:  Buy the freshest, best almonds you can find: it makes a difference!

¼ cup/50 ml whole milk

¾ - 1 teas fine sea salt

½ teas vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract – I prefer vanilla bean paste

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 350F. Prepare your pan.

Using the whisk attachment of your mixer mix the eggs, sugar and vanilla paste until pale and fluffy. Whisk the flour, baking powder, and salt in a separate bowl.  

Still using the whisk attachment – add the flour mixture and the melted butter, and buttermilk …alternating the dry with the wet ingredients.  I start and stop the mixer, scraping the sides of the bowl, mixing on low – still with the whisk.  

 Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  Drop on the counter to release any large air bubbles (sometimes I forget to do this…not a deal breaker.)  

Bake for 25-30 minutes until the cake is done: it will be light golden brown and the center will pop back up when lightly pressed.

When the cake is in the oven make the praline:  Put all of the caramel ingredients into a small sauce pan over medium/low heat …bring to a simmer and cook for about 7 – 8 minutes:  it will have thickened. I generally start putting this all together once I put the cake in the oven.

 When the cake is done, turn the oven temp up to 425F.   Take the cake out of the oven and pour the caramel over the top…try to even it out across the cake top.

Return the cake to the oven on an upper shelf for 5 -10 minutes until the caramel is bubbly and browned.  

 Cool in the pan for about 5-7 minutes – then run a knife around the edge of the pan to loosen any stuck caramel.  Let cool a bit longer until the top is ‘dry’ and can be flipped from the pan…flip from the pan, remove the parchment and quickly return it to the rack to finish cooling.  

 This cake is wonderful plain.  I also like it with some whipped cream and fruit compote…dark cherry compote is especially good. Enjoy!!!

[shesgottacook]

DIPPITY DOO-DAH!   THIS SPICY ONION DIP WILL  MAKE YOUR DAY!

THROW OUT YOUR SOUP MIX!  THIS SPICY ONION DIP WILL KNOCK YOUR SOCKS OFF….LITERALLY….

No party or family gathering is truly complete without chips and dip, specifically onion dip.  Growing up -  we always made the classic onion dip with Lipton’s Onion Soup mix and sour cream…mix it the night before and put it back in the container and serve it the next day:  voila!  Awesomeness…and yes, it is…still is, I’m sure; BUT there is a better way… a much better;  yes, it takes more time but honestly not much and it’s worth it.

If your friends and family are like mine…they like some heat in their food and they like some good junk food…and what defines junk better then chips and dip!  My kids went crazy on Thanksgiving for this… of course they might have been a bit hungover but…still they went bananas…. I did put out carrot sticks with the dip also…no takers:  the chips and the dip were demolished.  

With the holidays here and the exciting end of football season here - it’s a great time to have  dip on hand  Also, have a bag of Ruffles handy!  Or really good crackers, or veggies definitely work…just not in this house.

This recipe is mainly from Donald Link’s, Down South  cookbook; a book I discovered whilst in New Orleans for an extended stay this summer.  Honestly, I want to make every recipe in this book…but that’s another post entirely.  

I’ve changed some of his amounts of things…too much salt was listed in his recipe and I’ve cut back the cayenne slightly…but that is something you can adjust to taste…remember – the hot will get hotter as it sits in the refrigerator…so, buyer beware!!!  I used Vidalia onions this time but any sweet onion and probably any regular onion will work.  Sweet onions are specified…but cook them low and slow and all onions get sweet …don’t they? 

 So here goes -   It makes a lot of dip but trust me…it goes quickly!!! 

I also carmelize the onions a little more than he does…but I use his ingredients and most of his proportions.  

INGREDIENTS

2 Tbls. Olive Oil

2 Large, sweet onions (I used Vidalia), DICED SMALL

2 Tbls. chopped, fresh thyme

11/2 Tsp. kosher salt - start there and work your way up if necessary.  

1 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper (the original recipe calls for 2 tsp. but that bordered on too hot…start here and add more if you really want to!)

11/2 tsp. black pepper

1 tsp garlic powder

1 cup sour cream (I used reduced fat…watching my figure…HA!) 

3/4 cup mayonnaise

1/2 cup mascarpone 

1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced

1 tbls. lemon juice

1)  Heat the oil in a large skillet until hot…add the onion and sauté on medium high heat until the onion give up their water …5 minutes or so… Turn the heat to low and sauté until  slightly caramelized…35 - 40 minutes or so.  I don’t over brown them and I don’t want them to burn but I like some color on them. 

2)  Add the thyme, salt, cayenne, black pepper, and garlic powder and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes:  enough time for the spices and herbs to bloom a little in the oil.  

3)  Remover the pan and put the mixture in a mixing bowl to cool:  either on the counter or in the refrigerator.  Let them come to room temperature.

4)  Add the sour cream, mayonnaise and marscarpone, scallions and lemon juice and stir until combined.  Adjust seasonings to taste.  

5)  Refrigerate the mixture for at least 1 hour to let the flavors meld.  

6)  Serve with chips, crackers or veggies!  

ENJOY!!!

[shesgottacook]

I had the most beautiful egg today....

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CHERRY TOMATOES - TRANSFORMED

Remember…way back…say about 2-3 months ago when the first cherry tomatoes, hence the first tomatoes of the season were coming in and everyone was so…so so …in love with the little guys,  we all oohed and ahhhh and we soo very happy with the candy like jewels of fresh tomato taste;  we were in heaven.  

Cut to – Two months later and cherry tomatoes are still abundant.  STILL ABUNDANT…

What to do with them all? They are still quite beautiful in a bowl…and so varied in size and color they are truly a pleasure but I for one am a bit sick of them…another salad, salsa, sauce?  Sigh.  

Enter:  focaccia!  Not just any focaccia:  this focaccia is baked with marinated tomatoes and onions on top…and honestly…the marinating of the tomatoes, the baking them on the bread everything that is done to these tomatoes contributes to making them succulent and difficult to stop eating….

You can choose your favorite focaccia recipe - if you have one…the one that  I have used all summer is from Baking Illustrated and it incorporates about 9 oz of cooked and grated potato into the dough…it makes the bread very moist and fluffy.  

Here is the low down on the dough:

DOUGH INGREDIENTS:

1 medium baking potato - 9 oz. 

3 1/2 cups flour (I use about a cup of bread flour and 2.5 cups of regular flour)

1 1/2 teaspoons yeast (I now always use the quick rise yeast)

1 cup of water - lukewarm

2 tbls olive oil - plus more for oiling the bowl and the baking pan

1 1/4 teaspoons salt (coarse, kosher salt)

TOPPING:

2+ cups of cherry or grape tomatoes or a mixture:  whatever color and size you choose…have fun with it!

1/2 teaspoorn dried oregano or to taste

1/2 teaspoon red chile flakes 

2 tbls. olive oil

salt to taste…for the marinating session about 1/2 - 1 tsp.  

For the dough:

1)  Peel and quarter the potato and boil until tender. Drain in a colander until cool enough to handle.  

2)  In the bowl of a stand mixer put 1/2 cup flour (at this stage I use bread flour), the whole amount of yeast and a 1/2 cup of water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit about 20 minutes until bubbly… 

3) When potatoes are cool enough to handle grate on the large holes of a box grater:  set about 1 1/3 cups of lightly packed potato aside for the dough.

4)  When everything is bubbly in the mixing bowl add the rest of the ingredients:  3 cups flour, 2 tbls. olive oil, salt, 1/2 cup water and 1 1/3 cups of grated potato.   Blend with the mixer until a dough forms and then change over to the dough hook of the mixer.  Mix with the dough hook for about 7 minutes.  *** the dough should be tacky but not liquid and not too loose…if it feels and looks ‘wet’ add more flour…at your discretion.  THIS DOUGH SHOULD BE TACKY AND A LITTLE BIT STICKY…

5)  When the dough is mixed set it aside in a warm spot to rise until doubled - 1.5 - 2 hours…or in the fridge for the day… 

6)  When the dough has risen - heavily oil a baking sheet with olive oil.   Dump the dough onto the oiled cookie sheet and spread it out…it may have to rest a bit in order for it to allow you to push it into the corners…. it’s okay, the dough will relax if you let it…if you are having a hard time - walk away and let it rest in the pan for another 15-20 minutes….Meanwhile…marinate the tomatoes with the thinly sliced onions, oregano, red pepper flakes and salt.  

7)  Let the dough rise in the pan for an another 45 minutes to 1 hour: a cover it with either a damp tea towel or oiled plastic wrap.  After it has risen - dimple the dough with your fingers ….just have a little fun and let your fingers walk across the dough leaving little divots to hold the vegetables.

8)  Take the marinated vegetables and put on top of the dough…all around.  Save the liquid marinade. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a tea towel and let rise for another 25 minutes or so. 

9) While in the midst of rising either during step 7 or at the latest step 8…set your oven temperature to 425F and set the oven rack to the lowest position in the oven.  If you have a pizza stone set it on the rack (start your pre-heat sooner if you are using the pizza stone!)  

10)  After the dough has risen with the topping on it…drizzle the marinade over the top:  be judicious with it…and drizzle it evenly…you don’t want a puddle of liquid in the middle of the focaccia - trust me - I did that recently and it was a mushy mess in that area.  So drizzle with care and then drizzle  a bit more olive oil and sprinkle some coarse salt over the top and then PUT IT IN THE OVEN!

11)  Bake if for 28- 35 minutes…until the top is golden brown and the bottom is crispy and browned.  

This focaccia is delicious served warm as an appetizer or with a meal.  I’ve been known to make a pretty messy steak sandwich with it the day after it has been cooked.    It keeps well for a couple of days.  

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PIE PIE PIE PIE PIE PIE FRUIT PIE PIE PIE PIE …CRUST.

BEFORE I DIVE INTO THIS POST …I JUST WANT TO SAY I cannot believe i haven’t posted since strawberry season…a friggin decade ago…or so it seems…I have been super super super busy at work…so busy that I have been traveling and since i’ve been back…cooking on weekends only …and not writing…just happy to cook…and bake.  And I haven’t even been making the magic English Muffins…BUT I am back!!!  HERE GOES…

PIE.  Fruit pie: blueberry, peach, blackberry, raspberry, nectarine  – a combination of all of them….

Anyone who follows me on Instagram knows I like to make pie…I love a good pie….a good pie,  especially at this time of year!  In my opinion there is no better dessert at this time of year than a fruit pie…just saying….

And a good pie is hard to find, but not hard to make. It’s all about the crust;  a crust should taste good…a hint of sweet and have an amazing texture…flaky and buttery and crackly. Fruit fillings are easy - 4- 6 cups (more if you like to overstuff - call me guilty!)  of fresh fruit, sugar to taste, quick cook tapioca, lemon or lime zest and maybe a little spice and you have filling… crust crust…cursed crust is the tricky part of pie.

I have been tasting (and baking)  a lot of pies lately:  pies from all the best bakeries in NY…and the people I’m with always watch me taste the crust…and they watch my face as I give it a thumbs up or down…and generally it’s down.  They laugh at me as I pick at the crusts…usually I taste and eat a bit but here’s what I know about pie crust…IT GETS MUSHY QUICKLY;  VERY QUICKLY…AND HONESTLY, if  the crust is going to be mushy, at least it should taste good.

That’s one reason why I recommend you learn how to make a pie at home! Then you can eat your crust the day it is made and if it lasts until day two Bravo!  If you are going to make your own crust…I use the Cooks Illustrated or Dorie Greenspan recipes:  they are pretty close but I think I’ve messed with them:

For a double crusted pie:

21/2 cups flour

1 Teaspoon Sat

2 Tbls. Sugar

12 tbls butter - unsalted and very cold (1.5 sticks)- Cut into 1/2″ cubes

½ cup vegetable shortening- Frozen (yes, Crisco) - cut into 1/2″ cubes

4-6 Tbls ice water 

Whisk the flour, salt and sugar together in a mixing bowl.   

Add the shortening and cut the shortening  into the flour with a pastry blender until it looks like coarse sand.

Cut in the butter with a pastry blender…until the butter is incorporated but there are still blobs of varying sizes of butter in the dough…anywhere from a pea size down… 

Then start to gradually add the water…1 or 2 tablespoons at once and toss the mixture with a fork…it will start to stick together and form a dough… finally go in there with your hands…and mix it together until it holds together and you can form it into two discs that are not too cracked around the edges… pie dough is tricky - no doubt - the more often you make it the better you will get a knowing what’s right…and sometimes it still doesn’t come out right…trust me …I make at least one pie a week in the summer and it remains hit or miss…

Refrigerate the dough for at least an hour or longer (or freeze it for another time - thaw it in the fridge before using.)  And then use it for  your fruit pie recipes…

Please note …I leave little gobs of butter to melt away whilst cooking…making for flakes and taste!

Here are some of my thoughts on Pie Dough:

1)    I’m a proponent of blending my pastry by hand, yes, I do use the food processor sometimes but…. It’s tricky (I use Dorie Greenspan’s method when using the food processor.)

2)    Pies don’t really keep well – best to eat them the same day they are made.  

3)    I use a mixture of butter and Crisco * yes, Crisco, the trans fats are gone so don’t worry about it.

4)    I use lard for my savory pies but …even the best lard tastes a little bit meaty for a fruit pie…again, one woman’s opinion.

5)    I add a little bit of sugar to the crust – 2 – 3 tablespoons at most for a double crusted pie.

6)    Cook the pie either on the floor of the over or on a pizza stone set on the floor of the oven.  I start by preheating the oven to 500 degrees and turn it down to 425 for 25 -30 minutes and then turn the pie and turn the oven down to 375 degrees and cook for another 30 minutes or until done. 

8)    Use a glass pie plate (pyrex rules)

9)    IF YOU SCREW UP AND DON’T ADD enough moisture or you feel like you have overworked your dough:  TOSS IT.  IT’S JUST DOUGH.  TOSS IT.

10) My dough comes out different every time I make it…I try to be consistent but so many factors play into dough:  temperature, humidity levels, how dry is your flour that it is always a bit of a guessing game and I’ve learned by the feel of the dough.

11) I bake my scraps with a little sugar on top – maybe some cinnamon too…. They are good treats or …you can make crumbs out of them to line the bottom of your fruit pie to absorb some of the juices …and try to keep that tricky bottom crust crisp…

I also love my scraps with some grape jelly on them…I think my mother used to give us the cooked scraps that way.

12) Raw pie dough discs freeze really well:  so if you are on a roll – keep going and freeze them for another day.  Thaw them out in the fridge. 

13)  If you are like me and your crimping skills are challenged…then do what i do and buy lots of cookie cutters and cut the top dough into circles or tear drops or stars and make fun patterns that way…it’s an awesome cheat…and it’s not as tricky as a lattice top.

13) It’s just pie! If the crust sucks – eat the filling!

If you still feel intimidated by a pie - you can always make a cobbler or a crisp or a pudding cake!  I will tackle pudding cake in the next few weeks!  It’s so easy and delicious…meanwhile - go make a pie!  It’s fun!

[shesgottacook]

Strawberry Season!!! Local strawberries are here…get them while you can!!!

The season is short ...the product is...UNPREDICTABLE... However, I say, buy them, pick them, hit every farm stand you can or that can stand you and buy…strawberries!  I love a basic strawberry shortcake but this past week I really had a hankering for a strawberry tart.  

Now, the prices vary from $5 a quart at my farmers’ markets in South Jersey to $8 and up in posher places ...Brooklyn (I personally cannot believe I just wrote that sentence! - anyone who knows my history with Brooklyn knows...) to upwards of $12 per quart...WHAT???? WHAAAAAA

They are unpredictable…some are super sweet and juicy and others are dried out and bland…the thing is…if you buy them - use them pretty quickly or freeze them!  Strawberries freeze beautifully.!  Simply core them and place them, in a single layer on a parchment or waxed paper lined cookie sheet - once frozen -  toss them into a freezer bag...make ice cream in the fall or shortcake or whatever...even the sucky ones are better than the faux berries that are in the supermarket this time of year...just marinate those in a little sugar and vanilla when you thaw them and you are good to go.

Meanwhile - I made a strawberry tart…it was pretty easy but it was not perfect…another reason to try try again!  I tried a new tart shell recipe - Mistake… I’m going back to Dorie Greenspan’s tart crust recipe...and my custard was a little loose..again,I’m going back to Dorie.  One thing about the crust that was fantastico...lemon zest or Orange zest...grate a lemon or orange into the flour and sugar in your dough recipe...it’s a nice layer...another dimension to your crust….

I will openly admit that i have a custard/pastry cream/pudding problem…my results are not consistent...I try I try... and sometimes I hit and sometimes I miss - The mistake is that the cream is soupy... but they always taste amazing.  I think I don’t cook them long enough.  Once I again I defer to Dorie Greenspan...Mine was good in the pan, softened too much after chilling and whisking...and on day 2 was amazing but I want it to be firm and rich and pudding-y...I SHALL PREVAIL ...and when I unlock the secret I will let you know.

The topping really consisted only of strawberries that I marinated in a little simple syrup and vanilla.  They were perfect.  The flavors of this tart were right on…I think it would be awesome with a lemon curd filling also.  Just fill your pre baked tart shell with pastry cream or lemon curd or a lemony pastry cream or orange-y pastry cream.  Play around but…for a reliable crust recipe try Dorie Greenspan’s recipe from her book:  Baking: From My Home To Yours….my note in that book is the Dorie’s crust is trust;  if you can’t amuse yourself who can?  Have a great weekend and bake something ridiculous!

[shesgottacook]

JUDGING.... Once again I judged a book by it’s cover...

And I think I hit pay dirt!  This the book and it’s cover:  crumb:  A Baking Book by Ruby Tandoh… It just so happens the cover featured donuts or doughnuts…and today is National Doughnut Day!!!  Make some! Eat some!

Those doughnuts…I simply had to make them.  We were at the shore this past weekend: the Jersey Shore.  We go to a little town called  Ocean Grove and have been going there for many years, we love the town’s quirks its Methodistic quaintness mixed with seediness from a slightly bygone era…. 

Even naked they look pretty good…I mean they are fried bits of brioche…what’s to not to like?

Our neighbors are our friends and there is a real community:  because we rented our house out for the winter we had a bit of a reunion weekend… Well, Sunday night we had a dinner…a giant salade Nicoise with baguette and french butter followed but custard filled doughnuts…(it’s a british book, I’m sticking with their spelling…)

What better excuse to have a crazy desert than the summer kick off…These are fun to make…I will admit right up front that me wielding a pastry bag is not a pretty sight…custard and jam were everywhere… i must practice!  Plus my custard was perhaps a bit runny…tasty but runny..regardless…they were a huge hit….

The dough is basically a rich brioche type of dough…it is lovely to the touch…silken almost.  I deviated from the book by using my mixer with the dough hook rather than kneading by hand…at the end I finished for a few minutes of hand kneading but honestly…it’s so much easier with the mixer….and if it’s easier and the results as good if not better then …go for it!  

Make these!  I’m going to make them again and again…

I don’t have a link to this exact recipe but I found this recipe from Ruby in the Guardian newspaper…it’s pretty close.  I also filled them with strawberry jam…this weekend i will try again and keep you updated.

http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/how-to-bake-doughnuts-recipes-boston-cream-loukoumades-donutshttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/how-to-bake-doughnuts-recipes-boston-cream-loukoumades-donutshttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/how-to-bake-doughnuts-recipes-boston-cream-loukoumades-donutshttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/how-to-bake-doughnuts-recipes-boston-cream-loukoumades-donutshttp://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/may/03/how-to-bake-doughnuts-recipes-boston-cream-loukoumades-donuts

[shesgottacook]

Weekend!

Whatever shall I cook this weekend.... Stay tuned.... My little brain is churning....

[shesgottacook]

CAULIFLOWER CAKE?  Ottolenghi Strikes ...

CAULIFLOWER CAKE…WHAT????  Yes, a savory cake from Yotam Ottolenghi.

Hi all – It’s been awhile… I have been cooking here and there but mostly working …working long hours at the job that pays the bills… working away in Ad-Land!  It’s been intense but actually kind of fun…I really like the people and … that makes all the difference.  If you know me, it’s rare that I say I like people! LOL…not really but it sure feels that way sometime.

So, I have been cooking to eat and stay sane… now, the crazy time is over at work for a bit and I’m back!  There are a few recipes I want to post about:  a beautiful semi-freddo, a simple and delicious clam and cod chowder.  Today however, today I want to write about this cake…this is a crazy cake-like object from Yotam Ottogenghi…and his cookbook, Plenty More.

I have been intrigued with this recipe for months…it is indeed a cake, an egg-y cake with loads of cheese and cauliflower...a savory cake; that alone intrigued me…and the photo in the book is so beautiful I had to make it.  And I did.

I don’t know…people go absolutely bananas for Ottolenghi’s books;  although I have them all, I feel like whenever I make something from them ….they don’t quite live up to the hype…or what the photos in the books make me think they should deliver.  

This recipe has changed my mind.  Although true to form -  my husband, Gary said it could use a bit of bacon or chorizo….something to punch it up…I said, it’s called a vegetarian meal!  And he replied, “Well, there you go, that’s the problem.”  I don’t really disagree about punching it up a bit!  Of course I was thinking with heat:  maybe a hot pepper or two?  This recipe calls for a lot of fresh basil, I used store bought basil not fresh local basil and I know I will like it more when I can use my own! And…I am going to try it with bits of cooked crispy bacon or bits of crispy chorizo:  Gary is a pretty good to have around!

This is fun to make, and I’m sure it will be delicious tomorrow…for breakfast.

 I’m just attaching a link as the recipe goes on a bit:  I didn’t have Nigella seeds so I just used toasted sesame seeds!  I’m going to keep trying Yotam’s recipes and hopefully I will come around to the rest of the worlds’ point of view.  

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/cauliflower-cake-51254830

  I will update with the non-vegetarian bits!  

[shesgottacook]

HOT HOT HOT CROSS BUNS!  These are crazy good.

I have wanted to make hot cross buns for years…and for years Lent and Easter have come and gone and it just felt plain weird to make a hot cross bun out of season… I’m not religious but I guess I’m a traditionalist…of sorts.  

Since I was little I loved hot cross buns:  they were a once-a-year treat.  I now know that they are traditionally eaten on Good Friday;  that if shared with a friend - you will be friends for life - I rather like that thought …but think long and hard about who you are going to share with…just sayin’….

There are a lot of legends surrounding them:  leave one hanging in your kitchen  all year and it won't go bad and you won't get sick that year…blah blah blah…I like the friend nugget the best.  

I have reviewed the recipe in the Bouchon Bakery cookbook repeatedly;  Bits of the recipe always gets to me…They don’t use raisins:  they recommend currants and dried cranberries, but I prefer currents and dried cherries, and  the frosting:  The frosting on his buns (Thomas Keller’s or Sebastien Rouxel’s) has cinnamon and cardamom in it…Cinnamon and Cardamom, Cinnamon and Cardomom…just the words conjure up the spice trade and some deeply displaced and romantic notion of the spice routes and ancient India.  These are spices with warming names….so romantic and elegant and mysterious.

Naked Buns …are simply gorgeous…

The first time i made this recipe I was mostly true to Bouchon Bakery…mostly except:  I traded out dried cherries for the cranberries.  They are fabulous…perhaps the richest Hot Cross Bun recipe i have found..this is truly a hi-jacked brioche dough…slightly repurposed for these buns:  They don’t have to proof overnight, however, I’m willing to bet it would be fine if they did…

This is a long recipe…so I’m just taking you to a link, it’s an NPR link and the article is interesting too.  Three things to remember… you can trade the fruit for whatever dried fruit you prefer:  raisins, cranberries, cherries…my most recent batch includes 2 TBLS of candied tangerine peel…I found I rather missed the strange bittersweetness of the traditional candied citron…So I candied some tangerine peel…It’s pretty subtle, I added about 2 tbls..but didn't’ really measure: i’m going to be a bit more aggressive next time.  Lastly, you absolutely need a stand mixer to make this recipe. 

http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/03/29/175599684/homemade-peeps-and-more-easter-treats-a-la-thomas-keller

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SCURVY SCURVY SCURVY

Scurvy – The images the name conjures are of emotional ancient mariners hunched over with teeth falling out and dead birds hung around their neck…A circle of hell I have no interest in visiting. 

Scurvy is basically a vitamin C deficiency. The easy and common cure; the one the sailors used was eating oranges and lemons and limes…  I love them all:  oranges and mandarins and tangerines and clementines, mineolas and cara caras, Persian limes and Meyer lemons and regular lemons too.  I guess it’s the essence of summer in the middle of winter that makes them sooo super special at this time of year.

Everyone in the northeast has been a little house bound to varying degrees this winter:  everything has simply been relentless:  the cold, the snow, the ice, the Cold cold cold. My answer to both scurvy and the cold: SORBET.  It’s kind of my fuck you to winter.  

Tangerine/lime sorbet - with a hint of mint and ginger.

It cures scurvy and if you can’t beat back the cold with soup:  have a bit of sorbet and wrap up in a down comforter.  

This sorbet is sweet and tangy and delicious.  It’s wonderful on it’s own or with a bit of a cookie:  for instance a lime coconut shortbread?  If you love a Dreamsicle then in your bowl include a scoop of vanilla ice cream with your sorbet and you will be rewarded with bliss;  my personal favorite.

RECIPE: 

Clementines:  enough to yield 2 cups of juice (10 – 15)

Zest of 3 clementines

Limes:  enough to yield ½ cup of juice – (4-5)

Zest of 2 limes

1 cup sugar (to taste)

½ -3/4 cup water

4-5 ginger slices

fresh mint (optional)

1)   Zest 3 clementines and two oranges and put into the bowl that you will put your juice.

2)   Juice enough tangerines or clementines or orange-y citrus fruit of  your choice to yield approximately 2 cups of juice:  could be 10 – 15 small fruit or less larger juicier types…  

3)   Juice enough limes to yield ½ cup of juice.

4)   Put the sugar and water and ginger slices and mint sprig (2-3) into a small sauce pan and bring to a boil to melt the sugar  --- take off the heat and let the ginger  and mint continue marinate in the simple syrup for a bit:  10 minutes or so or longer.  

5)   Take the ginger and mint out of the syrup and then combine the juices and the simple syrup into a bowl and refrigerate or freeze;  chill thoroughly before putting it into your ice cream maker.

6)   IF you don’t have an ice cream maker …simply pour into a 9 x 13 pan and freeze…stir it periodically (every 15- 30 minutes or so) and you will have an excellent result.  It won't be as smooth as if made in the ice cream maker but the taste will still wow your friends.  

[shesgottacook]

Valentines Day is upon us…Eat your heart out!

Some of you may know or maybe have figured out that I’m not the most sentimental, touchy-feely person in the world…I’m pretty much a handshaker …with a few exceptions…that’s a whole other blog!

One thing I do love…is beautiful sugar cookies with a bit of frosting….cut into heart shapes… These cookies make Valentines Day okay…whether you are with a sweetie or solo…hells bells, they taste awesome and maybe you will meet someone if you hand them out in the right crowd.  

This recipe comes from the Flour Cookbook by Joanne Chang…I change it up a bit…I use vanilla  bean paste to dial up the vanilla flavor of these roll cookies: you could easily skip the vanilla and add lemon juice and zest or orange juice and zest, limeetc etc……  I don’t use her frostingrecipe…I found this old Good Housekeeping frosting on another blog ages ago…and it’s good…I mess around with it: watering it down with more cream, water/lemon juice/orange juice …or lime juice …depending on my mood…  

I’m not great at decorating and frosting cookies or cakes, honestly: I get bored.  I keep it simple and tasty, this frosting  borders on a glaze.  I don’t really “frost” them: I dip the cookies into the frosting/glaze….and scrape off the excess and then go crazy with the little white dots…aka ‘non pareils’…who knew? I always thought they were just white round sprinkles…there’s a name for everything…

Holiday Sugar Cookies

Makes about twenty-four 2 1/2-inch cookies

1 cup (2 sticks/228 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature 1 1/2 cups (300 grams) granulated sugar 2 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla bean paste or vanilla extract 3 cups (420 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Using a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed for about 5 minutes, or until the mixture is light and fluffy. Stop the mixer a few times and use a rubber spatula to scrape the sides and bottom of the bowl and the paddle to release any clinging butter or sugar. Beat in the eggs and vanilla on medium speed for 2 to 3 minutes, or until thoroughly combined. Scrape the bowl and the paddle again to make sure the eggs are thoroughly incorporated.

In a medium bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt until well mixed. On low speed, slowly blend the flour mixture into the butter-sugar mixture and then mix just until the flour mixture is totally incorporated and the dough is evenly mixed.

Scrape the dough onto a sheet of plastic wrap, and wrap the dough in the plastic wrap, pressing down to form a disk or some such - 

 about 8 inches in diameter and 1 inch thick. Refrigerate the dough for about 1 hour, or until it firms up enough to roll out. (At this point, the dough can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days or in the freezer for up to 1 month. If the dough is frozen, thaw it overnight in the refrigerator. Let the dough sit at room temperature for about 1 hour before using, then proceed as directed.)

Position a rack in the center of the oven, and heat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Lightly flour a work surface, place the dough disk on the surface, and lightly flour the dough. Roll out about 1/4 inch thick. Keep both the work surface and the dough floured to prevent sticking. If the dough begins to stick, sprinkle on a little more flour and keep rolling. Using a cookie cutter about 21/2 inches in diameter, cut out as many cookies as possible. Place them on a baking sheet, spacing them about 2 inches apart. Gather up the scraps, reroll, and cut out more cookies. If the dough is soft and warm and difficult to roll, wrap the scraps in plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm enough to roll.

Bake for 15 to 17 minutes, or until the cookies are golden brown on the edges and pale to light brown in the centers. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheet on a wire rack for about 30 minutes, or until they are cool enough to remove with a spatula. Then transfer to the wire rack to cool completely.

FROSTING!

3 cups confectioners sugar

3 tablespoons heavy cream

2 tablespoons melted butter

1 1/2 tablespoon light corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla (or lemon juice, etc.)

Additional water  or liquid as needed:  water, milk, juice etc… 2- 4 teaspoons to tablespoons depending on how thick you like your frosting!

Combine the first five ingredients in a mixing bowl until smooth:  add more liquid as needed to reach the consistency you want. 

Separate into bowls:  add food coloring as desired.

[shesgottacook]

Potato Leek Soup...

WHEN YOU ARE FEELING ON EDGE OR ABOUT TO FALL OFF THE LEDGE

My life has been pretty crazy and unbalanced lately: working a lot, traveling, not enough yoga, eating too much junk... every day is a bit of an emotional roller coaster…which is not necessarily unusual for me…STILL…in an effort to hold onto my center,  I go back to the basics ofmy cooking… and one of those is potato leek soup…it’s simple, delicious; requires enough chopping for me to get my frustrations out and, once in the pot everything softens into a warming delicious bowl of comfort.

Potato leek soup…or should I say leek and potato soup….Lately, I lean a bit more heavily on the leek factor in this soup…and I use a shallot or two as well as celery…you will find many recipes with no celery but I stand by the celery element!

Also, because I eyeball this one all the time…I’m just giving you my approximate measurements…I did weigh my leeks and potatoes…but there are no hard and fast rules…they are your taste buds – mess around. This soup is homey and delicious and can handle any emotional baggage you have…. Honest – goodness knows I make it enough lately.

Ingredients:

3 tbls olive oil or butter or a combination

4 -5 medium leeks – white and light green parts – about 12 oz., cleaned and sliced thin

1.5 lb potatoes – I use baking potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” pieces

2-3 stalks of celery – 5 oz, chopped

2 shallots, chopped

2 cloves of garlic, peeled and smashed

Fresh thyme or marjoram: 2 – 3 sprigs tied.

Fresh parsley for finishing – loads of it…1/2 bunch; chopped fine.

1/4 Heavy cream - to taste

Red pepper flakes (optional)

Ground black pepper (or white pepper if you have it and detest the little black specs…)

Salt and pepper - to taste.

6- 8 cups of chicken broth: for this I use either store bought or Better than boullion...I don’t use my rich homemade stock for this…it just doesn’t warrant that…you could also use water or vegetable broth.

1)   Heat oil/butter in a heavy soup pot or dutch oven – add the leeks, celery, shallots, garlic, red pepper flakes (if using) – add salt to get all the juices flowing. Let’s all of this start to melt a bit: the leeks will soften and wilt.

2)   Add the potatoes. Toss in the potatoes and stir them to coat with the oil and leek mixture. Saute for a couple of minutes.

3)   Add the broth and the herb bouquet. The broth should just barely cover…this might be about 4-5 cups of broth…it’s easier to add more than take away liquid so be judicious at first! Bring to a boil and then simmer until the potatoes are done…about 15- 20 minutes; when pierced with a fork they will fall apart. I warn you…there are moments when this looks pretty gray and grim but don’t be sad – it will look gorgeous in the end! Take the herb bouquet out of the soup and toss it.  REMEMBER - YOU CAN ALWAYS THIN OUT A SOUP:  YOU CAN'T ALWAYS THICKEN ONE UP!

4)   Use your immersion blender, or regular blender, food processor or just mash everything up with a potato masher - and puree the soup…I leave it pretty chunky. If it is too thick, add more liquid.

5)   Return to the heat on low and add about a ¼ cup of heavy cream – or more – to taste and to the eye…what looks good. Toss in your parsley. Let simmer for a minute or two and serve.

This soup is great served alone or with a lovely winter salad: last weekend I served it with an escarole and apple salad, and/or with grilled sausages and baguettes.

[shesgottacook]

New Years Day - Cook Something Expansive

I’m not religious. I’m not superstitious. Sometimes I feel like every tradition I ever experienced is somehow merely a memory…sometimes a sad loss and sometimes a pleasant one… But there is one tradition/ superstition that I follow and enforce annually: On New Years Day one must cook something that expands in volume; just as one’s wealth should grow in the new year….

I like the thought.

I don’t necessarily make the same thing every year: Yeast breads are always a winner and beans are very popular too. This year I made– Pecan Sticky rolls. YUM. And to be doubly safe I may make a black bean soup…I need all the help I can get this year!

Some years I make risotto: I think my mother made risotto a la Milanese on New Years for two reasons: first, rice expands and doubles/triples in volume, second, it’s rich yellow color represents gold – yep back to money.

In the past, when I had a raging hangover…I probably just made a huge bowl of popcorn. Popcorn is a great option and talk about multiplying!!!

This year I wanted a rich buttery brioche with nuts and caramel. Sticky rolls! I want my year to be sweet and nutty and rich!

ENJOY MY FRIENDS, ENJOY - HAPPY 2015!

Ps. I know I was late on publishing this …but you have all weekend to make these…so let me whet your appetite and then go for it. The dough handles beautifully and so far everyone who I have given them to goes bananas for them… YOU will get a sugar buzz and you will be happy.

This recipe comes from the Model Bakery cookbook – a winner and one of my favorites. Make the dough the day or night before making the rolls.

Flip side!  It's gooey oozy deliciousness…next time i might add a bit of vanilla past to the butter, sugar, cinnamon mixture…

NUTTY STICKY BUN

DOUGH - SPONGE: ½ cup/75 grams unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ cup/60 ml water

¼ tsp. instant yeast (quick rising yeast aka bread machine yeast)

DOUGH:

2/3 cup/165 Ml whole milk

2 large eggs

2 tsp instant yeast

1 tsp fine sea salt

3 cups/435 grams bread flour, as needed ¼ cup/50 grams sugar 6 tbls/85 grams butter, at room temp. 

1) Make the sponge: The day before baking, combine the flour, water and yeast in a small bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm place until the surface shows bubbles, about 1.5 hours.

2) Make the dough: combine the sponge, milk, eggs, yeast and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer. Using the paddle attachment mix on low speed until the sponge has dissolved. Gradually mix in 2 ½/365 grams of flour to make a sticky dough. Turn off the mixer, cover the bowl with a kitchen towel and let stand for 20 minutes.

3) Mix the dough on medium-low speed, gradually adding the sugar. Mix in enough of the remaining flour to make a soft dough that cleans the sides of the blow. REPLACE the Paddle attachment with the dough hook. Knead on medium-low speed until smooth and elastic, about 8 minutes. Add the butter, 1 tbsp at a time, letting the dough absorb each addition before adding the next. Knead until the dough is shiny, about a minute more . Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface.

4) Shape the dough into a thick rectangle. Wrap well in placetic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours before using. The dough will have puffed up but not necessarily have doubled.

NEXT MORNING --- MAKE THE BUNS!!!

1 cup/225 sweet butter – plus more for the pans

1 2/3 cup/330 g packed light brown suger

1 tbsp ground cinnamon

1 recipe dough (above)

Unbleached all-purpose flour for rolling out the dough

2 ½ cups/235 gram chopped pecans or walnuts – toasted. Toast them the night before when making the dough…all you will have to do is chop them in the morning. Roasting them does make a difference!

1) Butter 2 8” cake pans. Beat the brown sugar, butter and cinnamon together in mixer until light and fluffy- scrape down sides of bowl…it spreads better if you mix it as though you are making cookie dough.

2) Roll out the chilled dough on a lightly floured work surface; making a 18’’ by 10” rectangle. Spread half of the butter mixture on the dough in a thing layer – leaving ½” border on all sides. Sprinke 1 ½ cups of the chopped nuts over the butter mixture. Starting at the long side, roll up the dough and pinch the seam closed. Cut the dough into 12 equal slices – 1 ½ “ each…Yes, I use a ruler...

3) Divide and spread the remaining butter mix into the buttered cake pans…(honestly – I forgot this step this morning and it was fine.) Sprinkle the remaining nuts into the bottom of the pans. Arrange the slices, cut sides down, in the baking pans. Loosely cover with plastic wrap. Let stand in a warm place until the buns have puffed up: 1 ½ hours.

4) Position rack in the cent of the oven and prehead to 350 degrees F.

5) Bake until the buns are golden brown and the dough near the crevices looks dry, 30 – 35 minutes. Let cool in the pans for 5 minutes. Invert the pans onto a large rimmed baking sheet to unmold. Scrape the pans clean of any nuts and caramel…either put the pans on a low flame to loosen them up and pour them over the buns or simply scrape them out and onto the buns. Serve warm or at room temperature.

6) NOTE: These are best eaten the day they are made – but you can wrap them in foil and store at room temp for 2 days…Reheat the wrapped buns in a preheated 300 F oven until warm: 10- 15 minutes. They do not freeze well.

Before the rise

[shesgottacook]

Soup/Football: His Football is My Soup

A couple of weeks ago I said to my husband, “I’m getting pretty sick of football…”

Bad move on my part.

And I got a LOOK LIKE I was beyond insane. Mad. HAD. I. GONE. MAD??

I was like, “Ww--w-hat? It’s on all the time.” College; Saturday – all day; Pro – Sunday/all day, Monday night and Thursday night and I’m sure I’m missing some time slots or it just feels like 24/7 because of the NFL channel and ESPN.

Anyway… He responded with the look and this, ‘You can’t be serious: THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH FOOTBALL.”

Nuff said.

Cut to a week or so later and we were discussing dinner, and I said, I can make some nice soup…

He replied, “I’m kind of sick of soup....”

WHaaaaaaaaatttttt? THAT WAS MY FOOTBALL MOMENT

I replied…maybe not so calmly, “What? That’s impossible, THERE IS NEVER ENOUGH SOUP… and …soup season hasn’t even begun??? Are you bananas? Nuts? Crazy? This is absurd."

So there you have it… and here you have one of the first of many soups of the season – He will reconsider…actually there is a big bad storm in the Northeast and I’m in sunny California…so guess what he had for dinner? Yes indeed: He thawed out some soup!

Score – Melanie!

Try this classic tomato for a day or night when old man weather is serving life to you raw and cold.. but it’s fabulous and easy. It doesn’t need the bacon …but the bacon crunchies are a wonderful topping … INGREDIENTS

4 slices smoked bacon (about 3-4 oz.) cut into thin matchsticks, Optional for the vegetarians

1 tbsp. unsalted butter

1 medium onion, thinly sliced, about 6 oz. 2 cups

2 small – medium carrots, halved and thinly sliced (about 1and ½ cups)

2 tbsp. tomato paste

2 teaspoons or to taste – smoked paprika (optional)

4 tsp. flour

4 cups chicken stock or water or vegetable stock for the vegetarians

3 cups canned diced tomatoes, well drained

3-4 sprigs thyme

2 fresh bay leaf

2 garlic clove, lightly crushed

2 – 4 tbs. heavy cream - optional

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Render bacon over medium heat in a 3-quart saucepan until crisp, about three minutes. Remove bacon to paper-towel lined plate and set aside, reserving the rendered fat in the saucepan.

2. Increase heat to medium-high and add the butter. Sauté the onion and carrot for 8-10 minutes or until very soft and beginning to caramelize, stirring occasionally. Add the tomato paste and continue cooking about 2 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the paprika, if using . Sprinkle the flour over the vegetable mixture, mix well and continue cooking for another minute. Gradually pour in the stock, whisking constantly to prevent lumps from forming. Add the diced tomatoes, thyme, bay leaf, garlic and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer soup for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Remove soup from the heat. Add the heavy cream and puree with an immersion blender until smooth. Season to taste and serve garnished with the crisped bacon.

OH AND IT'S GREAT TO EAT WITH A GRILL CHEESE SANDWICH WHILE WATCHING…FOOTBALL!

[shesgottacook]

When Life Gives You Rotten Bananas…make Banana Cupcakes with Chocolate Frosting!!!!

I've been cooking a lot lately but have not been able to photograph much of the results…too busy serving it up to the peeps!  However, I have made these banana cupcakes a couple of times now and they are delicious…The frosting is particularly good! 

This recipe comes from Baked: New Frontiers in Baking by Matt Lewis & Renato Paliafito.  It's a wonderful cookbook…one of three (I think) of theirs…the frosting is from the same book but I mess around with the proportions of the recipe as it the published version makes way too much…this does too…but not as much…Also, my gluten -free friends like to eat the frosting solo:  I do think it could easily be transformed into a mousse…but that's another post for another day when I have time to mess around.

Banana Cupcakes

Preheat oven to 325F and line two 12-cup muffin pans with paper liners.

2 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/4 tsp. baking powder

1 tsp. baking soda

1/2 tsp. salt

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temp.

1 3/4 cups sugar

2 tsp. vanilla extract or paste

2 large eggs

1 1/2 cup mashed, very ripe…bordering on …rotten…bananas (4-ish)

1/2 cup buttermilk

Whisk or sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together into a large bowl - set aside.

In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment- beat the butter and shortening together on medium speed until creamy, 3-4 minutes.  Add the sugar and vanilla and beat on medium speed until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Scrape down the bowl, add the eggs and beat until just combined.  Scrape down the bowl again and add the bananas. Beat until just combined.  Turn the speed down to low.  Add the flour mixture, alternating with the buttermilk, in three additions, beginning and ending with the flour mixture.  Scrape down the bowl, then mix on low speed for a few more seconds. 

Fill the cupcake liners about 3/4 full.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through the baking time. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.  Transfer the pans to a rack and let cool for 20 minutes. Remove the cupcakes from the pans and place them on the rack to cool completely.

Naked cupcakes below...

FROSTING

6 oz. bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped (I just take a rolling pin and smash the bar up.)

6 oz. milk chocolate, finely chopped (I mess around with this proportion…sometimes i just use all bittersweet or 4 oz. milk chocolate and 2 oz semi sweet)  This is not a sweet frosting…the more milk chocolate you use the sweeter it will be.

1 cup heavy cream

1 Tbls. light corn syrup (please note this is the only additional sweetener.)

1 cup (2 sticks) butter…soft but cool, cut into 1" pieces.

Place both or all three chocolates int the bowl of an electric mixer. In a small saucepan, bring the cream and the corn syrup to a boil, then remove from the heat and immediately pour the mixture over the chocolate.  Let stand for 2 to 3 minutes.  Starting at the center of the blow and working your way out to the edges, whisk the chocolate mixture until completely smooth.  Set aside to cool to room temperature.

with the electric mixer fitted with the whisk, on medium speed gradually add the butter pieces and mix until thoroughly incorporated.  The frosting should be completely smooth and have a silky look.

Two Notes:  I usually keep these refrigerated as the frosting can get rather soft…I take them out a bit before serving to bring them back up to room temperature.  Note #2:  I put my oven on warm and put the bowl with the chocolate bits in it to pre-warm whilst the cream is boiling…just helps the process.

These are delicious and just remember:  when life gives you rotten bananas - make cupcakes!  

[shesgottacook]

Some Great News! SAVEUR! Archived Issues - FREE!!!!!

You know how sometimes you find something and it sticks with you:  a book, a cookbook, a song, a person (?) will stick with you…it will follow you around and you, likewise may keep it close; pour over it, listen to it repeatedly, cook from it… Well the October 2012 issue of SAVUER magazine:  101 Classic Recipes  is one of my 'things'.  

Since the day I received it I have read the recipes - cooked more recipes from it than i have from many of my cookbooks, have many more earmarked to make and my paper copy is becoming a bit shabby….

I figured I would just go buy a digital version to keep it near and dear always and handy in a grocery store: What i found made me chirp with joy! An app of the Saveur Archives!!!! FREE!! It's all free! The archives go back to March 2009. It's a veritable treasure trove of great articles and recipes. If you only download one - I would go for the one that I drag around with me - October 2012. I write in my cookbooks…a diary of my day or what i think of the recipe or who was with us…Here are a few snippets from my Saveur.

FYI: The hot and Sour soup recipe will ruin you for your Chinese take out. The General Tso's Chicken is time consuming but so very interesting…I never thought I would make it again but I am seriously reconsidering. The Asparagus is terrific and unusual. I urge you to try these - make friends with 101 Classic Recipes. It won’t let you down! Here the App icon - for a visual reference.