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loewe fw98 rye
Alexander McQueen - Fall 1999 RTW
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Tobias Wednt
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High Femininity was an attempt to command liberated women's attention with a counter-attack. As fashion designer Arnold Scaasi, one of High Femininity's leading architects, explains it, the new fashion edict "is a reaction to the feminist movement, which was kind of a war."
The mission of Lacroix and his fellow designers was to win this war, to make women "listen" and rein them in, sometimes quite literally. At a Lacroix fashion show, the designer trotted out his "cowgirl" model, bound and harnessed in a bridle rope. It was not enough that women buy more clothes; they had to buy the clothes that the couturiers told them to buy. Designers wanted to be in charge of "dressing women," as the Council of Fashion Designers of America phrased it, in its 1987 tribute to Lacroix.
What happened in 1987 had happened before, almost identically, in the 1947 fashion war. Women who had discovered pants, low-heeled shoes, and loose sweaters during World War II were reluctant to give them up in peacetime. The fashion industry fell into a "frightening slump," as Time described it at the time, with orders shrinking by as much as 60 percent.
— Backlash: The Undeclared War Against American Women, Susan Faludi (Three Rivers Press; 1991, 2006)
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sarah-linh tran - designer at lemaire
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