On NAS whisk(e)y and Americans
The good doctor would like to pontificate about whisk(e)y based on this article about the loss of age statements in certain bottles.
"Americans, for the most part, have a misguided fascination with age statements, equating quality with age," said Tardie. "I've had people come to the bar and shop by age statements, looking for the oldest age for the cheapest price. Misguided indeed." - Tommy Tardie, owner of The Flatiron Room in Manhattan.
Two things. Firstly, *some* "Americans" have an obsession with age statements. I agree. But *some* people around the world have this very same obsession. This is a slightly insulting expression of that whole "Americans are stupid" mentality, of which I am getting incredibly sick to death. Of course you find a higher number of Americans who think one thing or another. This is a massive country filled with a very large number of people. I would bet a lot of money there are as many people per capita who areobsessed with age statements in Scotland, and they kinda run the whisky world, no? Do I doubt that some people "shop by age statements" in his bar? No. Do I think it's such a high number that it warrants tarring all American whisk(e)y consumers with this brush? No. I think he remembers a few pompous asses and has decided anyone who expresses concern about No Age Statement whisk(e)y, or wants a specific aged expression, is an boor who doesn't know what they're talking about.
The second thing is, this guy is glossing over a fact. NAS whisk(e)y is a big thing lately precisely because many makers are trying to hide that they are using very young spirits in their new expressions. Scottish distilleries are doing this, and the experts, hobbyists and casual consumers alike are all questioning it. Why?
Because you can taste a difference in many of them.
The distillers and blenders and bottlers (especially Japanese ones) are trying to keep up with demand. I get it. But saying that you miss and prefer Hibiki 12 over this new Harmony is not silly or unwarranted. You can taste the difference.
"I recently picked up 10 cases of Elijah Craig 12 year. Why? The prominent '12 year' that was rightfully displayed front and center on the bottle has since been quietly moved to the back of the bottle in small 12 point type," he explained. "I predict very soon they will do away with the age completely. Perhaps they wanted to discreetly make the move as to not stir up to much attention. American's love their age statements." - Tommy Tardie
You'll pardon the good doctor for his French, but oh, for fuck's sake. Tardie damn well knows Heaven Hill isn't gonna blend some 10 and some 12 for a NAS bourbon. They're gonna blend some 4 and some 6, maybe. Maybe some 2 and some 8 if we're lucky. What used to be the low part of the high end of Heaven Hill juice will now become the top expression they offer and they will slap the Elijah Craig label on it, put it in the bottle we all know and continue to charge exactly what they charge now for juice that sat in a barrel for 12 long years. It will not taste the same. There's no way it can. Whisk(e)y is as much art as science, but come on. 12 years in a barrel in an American rackhouse will obviously have an effect on flavor and color that 2, 4, 6 or even 8 cannot possibly have.
No reason to insult American bourbon drinkers for saying that's not a square deal.
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