Store Cupboard Stalwarts

Gems from the Jewelry Box of the Kitchen

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Whole Head of Garlic

- decapitated, drenched in olive oil and given a spell in a hot oven, what you think might be a massive garlicky overdose is tamed and transformed into something rich and sweet. Like garlic in the pan, garlic in the oven can easily burn. Get it right, and the result is a sticky pale brown pulp which slips easily from the skins of the individual cloves. Use in sauces, gravies to give a mellow depth of flavour. Or chop and combination with other roast vegetables to make a quick pasta dish.  

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Fresh Bay Leaves

- pinched straight off the tree and folded a couple of times to break the midrib (the spine running down the middle of a leaf) a fresh bay leaf releases an exquisite perfume. Subtle yet striking enough to survive a long stew, a couple of fresh leaves lend soups, stews and sauces an understated sophistication. Fresh, never dried (entirely vapid).

- the tree usually grows well all year round but watch out for "Bay Sucker" a sap sucking insect exclusive to the plant which causes obvious discolouration & curling of leaves making them unsuitable for cooking.   

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Vermouth

- nothing knocks the hard edge off softening onions or shallots like a splash of Vermouth. It's the perfect preventative to an overtly "oniony" taste to a dish. Also keeps them from browning or worse, burning. Add a good slug once they're turning transparent. 

- use in place of white wine for a more reliable flavour. It also keeps far longer than any open bottle of regular wine as it's fortified. And usually pleasantly cheap.

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Whole Nutmeg

- a jar of ground nutmeg quickly loses most of its essential oils and becomes a one-note bore. It's the simplest thing in the world to grate a little from the whole seed as you need it.

- mushroom ravioli dressed only with melted butter, a little olive oil and a parsimonious grating of nutmeg is exceedingly good.

- dauphinoise potatoes go from alluring to irresistible when the milk & cream mixture is laced with nutmeg.

- nutmeg has an affinity with lamb which is well worth experimenting with. Remember how delicious moussaka is!

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Fresh Birds Eye Chilies

- these keep absolutely perfectly in the freezer for eons

- indispensable chopped in innumerable curries, stir-fries & marinades - spaghetti "aglio e olio": fry garlic in ample olive oil & butter until garlic just catches, add 1 or 2 chopped chilies, give it 10 seconds to infuse in the pan then dress well-drained pasta. Add chopped parsley & parmesan if desired. Unbelievably delicious. 

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Tarragon Jelly

- Adds Wow! when served as an accompaniment to cold chicken or white fish. It was a revelation when I first tasted this - fresh, tart & all the herbal-liquorice flavour of fresh tarragon.

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Ginger Paste

- for a super quick dipping sauce for dumplings combine light soy sauce, dash of mirin & ginger paste to taste.

- add right at the end of cooking if the taste of your fresh ginger has become indistinguishable & you want that ginger hit. Works for soups & curries.

- Hot wok + greens + sesame seed oil + ginger paste = 30 second nutritious magic

[NB some brands are better than others, or make at home if you have a powerful food processor & a freezer]

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Pomegranate Molasses

- a sticky coat for ham or beef. Combine with chopped chilies (and garlic), roll joint in the mix & bake on a high heat. Flash under the grill if you want an attractive charred look to the dish.

- a mouth-puckering yet moreish cocktail. 1 part vanilla vodka, 1/2 part molasses, 1/4 part lemon (or lime) juice, shake together with ice & serve.

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Caper Paste

- a teaspoon added to basic salad dressing instead of mustard. Delicious. Especially good if there are caramalised lemons in the salad. Or white fish is being served with the salad.