titsay
"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
we're not kids anymore.
PUT YOUR BEARD IN MY MOUTH
trying on a metaphor
Sade Olutola
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YOU ARE THE REASON
Discoholic 🪩
#extradirty
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@stringlady13
Hello and Welcome!
Are you over 18? If not please leave!
Is your blog blank? Do you have your age on your blog? If not I will block you!
After that please come stay for a bit. Please enjoy all the things I want Daddy to do to me.
Have a wonderful day! 🧡🧡🧡
Wolfforkitty
by Nikolett Emmert
Sunflowers!!!🌻
No Contact - No Excuse
I have recently been chatting with multiple submissive girls who are basically being ignored by their Caregiver. They did nothing wrong. They were not told they were going to be ignored. They just have been without any contact for no particular reason.
When you ignore your submissive, whether it is intentional or not, you leave them wondering what they have done wrong. They sit there thinking that there must be something wrong with them that you can so put them from your mind, as they starve for your guidance, love, and support. There is no excuse for it. It’s the age of texting folks. It takes less than 30 seconds to type a phrase like, “Sorry, I don’t mean to ignore you. Just wanted to remind you that I care about you. I’m just terribly busy.” Takes the same 30 seconds to type, “I’m having a hard time with myself right now, and I just need some time to sort it out. I hope you understand.” Any communication of what is going on that requires your absence will mean so much to someone who depends on you so much, and who you have sworn to care for. Don’t ghost on your submissive. Let me say it again for those in the back… DON’T GHOST ON YOUR SUBMISSIVE. If you can’t spare them 30 seconds over a period of several days, you don’t deserve one.
JerseyDaddy🌹
Show them how useful you’ve learned to be. Maybe one of them will finally want you
::
Heads up… it’s Fossil Friday! 🦕 The Museum's Apatosaurus, collected at the turn of the 20th century, was the first sauropod ever mounted. But did you know that for years, this mighty dinosaur was displayed with the wrong skull? Using incomplete remains, scientists speculated that Apatosaurus was closely related to another sauropod: Camarasaurus. As a result, a similar skull to Camarasaurus was sculpted and placed atop Apatosaurus’ body (pictured), where it remained for decades. As new research emerged, this reconstruction was updated. To this day, only one Apatosaurus has ever been found with its skull attached! You can visit Apatosaurus in the Museum’s Hall of Saurischian Dinosaurs. We’re open daily from 10 am–5:30 pm. Plan your visit.
Photo: Image no. 45615 / AMNH Library
Alt: A photo of a Museum preparator working on a speculative skull of Apatosaurus. It is huge with a domed head and peg-like teeth.
Currently obsessed with locking my sub up in their cage when I need to go out, where I can always check the camera feed to make sure they're safe and well behaved. Can't have my pet getting into things without me around. Besides, a good pet should be crate trained and stored properly while I'm away, I wouldn't want to be careless of my property. Not to mention how owned and subby it makes them feel to be stored like a common object or kenneled like an animal.
Do I need to run to the grocery store? Put them in their cage and lock the door.
Going out to help my friends move? Into their cage with them.
I want to go see a movie they have no interest in seeing? Caged up until I get back.
Going on a walk around the neighborhood? I'll keep them stored away in their cage until I return.
Away for a couple hours for a job interview? I'll let them out when I get back.
Are they misbehaving? They can go to their cage instead of the bookstore with me if they're going to be so disagreeable then (I could never not bring them some books home).
Let's talk about long term denial and a style of dominance that's compatible with it
As such, this post will mainly focus on the type of dynamic where a sub is giving out their pleasure to a dom, but I hope it can also be of value to those doing self-denial
It's something I've wanted to write about for a while and I spent quite some time thinking how to best put my thoughts into words, because it's a really important topic that people don't brush upon enough
Long term denial is hard, and that's a fact. Yes, even if you have experience and you've done it multiple times before, even if it's your main kink and you're enjoying it overall. There are going to be days when you, as the person being denied, won't be able to handle it all that well. Arousal levels might change, drop down or get too high, and it doesn't mean there's something wrong. Bodies are not machines, it's just how it is. Please listen to what your body is telling you.
Funnily enough, I think as someone dealing with chronic health issues that has to constantly monitor changes in my body and adapt to the fluctuating nature of it, it's somewhat easier for me to handle the ups and downs of denial too. But not everyone is like that and for some, long term denial will not be a healthy fit, even if you're really into the kink. And that's okay too.
Most importantly: life happens. Sometimes you have good things going on, sometimes you're just busy, but eventually, hardships will strike too. It's inevitable. Yet, you're still going to remain denied, even in such times. What then?
Denial is one of those perhaps more rare kinks that do not end together with a scene. Even if you're not actively edging, the ache creeps up. The fuzzy mindset often lingers and clouds your judgment. You're likely to start experiencing everything more intensely, you think of sex more often, mood swings can occur. It eventually starts seeping into so many aspects of life, and that's something I needed years to figure out how to manage, so I can stay denied for months at a time without it having any real negative impact on me.
One of the most important things is for a dominant in charge of your pleasure to be a good fit for what you as a denied sub need. Pro tip I learned the harder way: if something feels too good to be true, it usually is. Seeing no red flags can be a red flag by itself. If you fall easily for words, make sure they end up matching the actions as well, because sometimes sweet talk is nothing more than just talk. It might take a while to notice that.
What I've come to realise, especially after being a part of nsfw Tumblr for quite some time now and seeing how d/s develops in online spaces, is that some people treat dominance as a performance. They log in, chat and sext with subs, perhaps guide them through a scene, and when it's over and they've had their fun, the performance comes to an end. Conversation falls flat. For a denied sub, nothing really stops when their dominant has had an orgasm and their dose of pleasure, and that's what some overlook.
We're all here to have some kinky fun, and there's nothing necessarily wrong with that. But if you're a dom looking into denying a sub and being in charge of their pleasure, be aware that it becomes your responsibility. Don't get mad at them for needing you, don't take their struggle as disobedience and never ever stop such play over night, gently guide them back to solid ground. It's a duty you signed up for.
Long term denial has the best chance of working out with someone who can be dominant even when they're not horny and in the character they carefully curated to cater to a certain audience. Someone whose dominance is an underlying character trait, not a show to put on. If you've experienced both, you'll know exactly the difference I'm talking about. We're all people. You don't have to be a perfect dom or a 100% obedient sub, just a sincere one, willing to acknowledge your mistakes and improve.
For all my long term denial subs out there, especially the ones who are just starting out and dipping their toes into it: find someone who will be your friend before you let them dom you. Talk with them, check their values, goals, needs, see if those align with yours before committing to anything. No matter how good of a dom someone is, if you're not compatible, it won't work. Not for long, that is.
Done right, denial can be beautiful, never-ending dance of give and take, make you reach heights you wouldn't otherwise experience, and help you form a really intimate bond within the dynamic. But as everything, it doesn't come (lol) without risk.
Also, for God's sake, treat your doms like humans too. They're going to have hard days themselves, they won't always be able to play and match your horniness, they're not endless providers. Communicate and adapt. Tone it down or ramp it up. Be there for each other, even when things suck. Especially when they suck. That's how you build a healthy dynamic that will hopefully be long-lasting and fulfilling for both.
Feel free to comment and add upon this, I'd love to hear what others think and have to say on the topic!
date idea: me doggy style and you inserting the plug in me
Know what I’m salty about?
In all my art classes, I was never taught HOW to use the various tools of art.
Like yes, form, and shape and space and color theory and figure drawing is important, but so is KNOWING what different tools do.
I’m 29 and I JUST learned this past month that India Ink is fucking waterproof when it dries. Why is this important? Because I can line something in India Ink and then go over it with watercolors. And that has CHANGED the ENTIRE way I art and the ease I can create with.
tldr: Art Teachers: teach your students what different tools do. PLEASE.
WAIT INDIA INK JS WATERPROOF ONCE IT DRIES????? THE ENTIRE REASON IVE AVOIDED MARKERS MY ENTIRE LIFE IS BECAUSE JNK BLEEDS AND YOURE TELLING ME INDIA INK IS
F U C K I N G W A T E R P R O O F
yall calligraphers out there this is extremely fuckin important if u wanna get into illumination shenanigans because i swear to you there will b discoveries like these^
heres some of mine, pls take with a grain of salt im a total gotdamn amateur:
a lot of the time, the ability for colored ink to bleed will vary wildly WITHIN A SINGLE BRAND OF COLORED INKS. my cobalts bleed like fucking CRAZY compared to my reds, which, when u reference manuscripts that tend to put white ink ON TOP of either red or blue… you see where shit gets real and real annoying.
u can buy an aeresol, fully transparent workable sealant for like 5-10 dollars at your local art store. when i realize a piece ive been working on needs a color on TOP of a bleed happy ink, i give it a layer of this stuff. trouble is it CAN warp the paper so its important as soon as it dries to use heavy things (paperweights, books) to counteract the paper curling.
ink solvent, like koh i noor’s rapido-eeze, is only compatible with SOME inks, but will work on most acrylics. If you happen to be working with sturdy vellum that you have pre-sealed, it can be possible to literally use ink solvent to wipe away your calligraphy mistake like a goddamn bounty commercial
Shit I Learned Working At Dick Blick:
WD40, found at your local hardware store, will remove Sharpie marker from almost any hard surface.
Acrylic inks will show brush strokes in large areas but are waterproof and quick-drying.
Acrylic gouache is vivid, fluid, dried matte, is UTTERLY opaque on black paper, handles exactly like watercolor, and is waterproof.
Putting an oil painting in the sun will turn the yellowed portions back to their original white and wont hurt the painting.
Cheap acrylic paintings will bleach out if left in the sun - get UV protectant spray or varnish. Nicer acrylic paints are less prone to sun bleaching, but they still do. Plan accordingly. Oil paints are much less prone to this.
Solvent-based markers blend together MUSH MORE SMOOTHLY than alcohol-based markers.
There is an acrylic paint medium for literally every effect you can conceivably think of (fabric paint medium, gloss medium, fluid medium, sand medium, fast-dying/slow-drying medium, etc.).
If you’re going to buy student-grade paint to save cash, buy earth-tones (burnt sienna, ochre, etc.); they are made with cheap pigments already, and you wont tell a difference. You WILL tell a difference between student-grade and artist-grade bright colors (all yellows, blues, and reds).
If you’re working with markers but aren’t using marker paper, you need to switch. Markers don’t blend on printer paper, they just layer (even expensive markers).
If you want a glass palette for paint mixing but don’t want to shell out the cash, buy a giant picture frame at Goodwill, take the glass out, and electrical tape it to a piece of foam board the same size for stability.
Hog bristle brushes are for oil paint, sable brushes are for watercolor, and synthetic brushes are for acrylic and oil (but not watercolor because synthetic bristles can’t absorb water).
If you’re going to splurge on any aspect of your creation, splurge on the paper. Get the good stuff - crappy markers/paint/pencils look good on good paper, but not the other way around. (There is more, but these are the big ticket items)
Some more, also from working at Dick Blick:
- Palette knives are for mixing paint and TRUST ME you want to learn how to use them. When you mix with your brush you loose paint and it’s hard in your brushes.
- DO NOT FIX YOUR ARTWORK WITH HAIRSPRAY. If you’re proud of your work and want to keep it, buy the actual spray fix. Hairspray is not archival in the slightest and will damage your work.
- On top of that, be careful how you store your work. Newsprint is handy and cheap, but also not acid-free and it will yellow your paper. Foamboard? Matboard? Also not always acid-free (but you can get them acid-free).
- There is no food-safe paint. Period. There are lots of ways you can decorate pottery that aren’t glazes, but only glazes are food safe (and even some of those aren’t).
- Also not food safe: Polymer clay (sculpey), air dry clay, oil-based clay, ceramics that have not been glaze fired, oil pastels, sharpie, glues of any kind, or mod podge (even the ‘dishwasher safe’ kind).
- Don’t even get me started on mod podge. It’s not consistent. It’s not archival. It’s not a sealant, it’s a glue (setting aside some of the weird hyper-specific ones they make that I’ve literally never seen in real life).
- If your glue isn’t archival or at least acid-free, don’t use it in your artwork.
- There are so many different kinds of paper out there, just go try them. But also make sure you know if it’s acid-free or not (it probably is).
- Marker paper is usually 15 to 20 lbs. News print is usually 30 to 35 lbs. Tracing paper is usually 25 lbs. Rice paper can range from 20 to 50 lbs. Printer paper is 20 lbs. Vellum paper is usually 48 to 55 lbs. Sketchbook paper is usually 50 to 60 lbs. Drawing paper is usually 70 to 80 lbs. Cardstock can range from 50 to 110 lbs. Charcoal paper is usually 50 to 65 lbs. Pastel paper can range from 70 lbs to board. Bristol paper can range from 50 lbs to board. Mixed media paper can range from 90 to 140 lbs. Printmaking paper can range from lbs 90 to 300 lbs. Watercolor paper can range from 90 to 500 lbs.
- The heavier and rougher the paper is, the more it will absorb. If you’re using a paper too smooth for your medium it will take forever to dry and may smudge. If you’re using a paper too light for your medium, it will warp and curl.
- If you’re working heavily with water, you need to stretch your paper (aka seal down your edges of the paper to a hard, water resistant surface). If you don’t like doing that because it’s a hassle, buy a watercolor block instead of a pad/individual peices.
- If you’re working on a thicker paper, and make a mistake that your can’t erase or cover- you can scrape and/or cut it out! With a really sharp exacto knife, you can very CAREFULLY remove the top layer of paper fibers on most paper.
- DO NOT USE ACRYLIC AS BODY PAINT. It’s plastic.
- If you paint with oil, buy a silicoil jar. It’s the best $10 you’ve ever spent.
- Acrylic paint is basically water-based plastic. It will basically fuse with anything plastic (like a plastic palette), and will not stick to anything oil-based.
- Acrylic paint and house paint are not the same thing and you cannot mix them together. Acrylic paint is made from a water-based acrylic polymer, and house paint is almost always latex and can come both water-soluable and not.
@pamelab has this amazing reference crossed your dash yet?
most paints will have a lightfastness rating & pigment code on the tube so you can get an idea of how prone to fading it will be, it’s not 100 percent reliable but it’s a start
it took me goddamned near 20 years to realize bristol paper/cardstock has slightly different texture on each side, it doesn’t matter a whole lot for pencil or ballpoint but can for ink (one bleeds more with microns & similar fluid inks) & if you cut piles of it for messing around like i do, try to store them with that in mind i guess?
