the wave
The wave
I was paddling calmly for this wave I managed to do a flawless popup, not long after I dropped into this halfpipe like wave. I slowly rotated my chest closer and closer to the board and rushing waters under my feet. I waited for a couple seconds, the wave quickly came tumbling over my head and I was hooked into it. I sat in the barrel for as long as I could, but my eyes started stinging due to the saltwater getting all over my face. I could also get a whiff oof the scent of the salt running through my nostrils. I rapidly exited the barrel and got struck by a million different tropical crystal-clear colour of the water shinning deep into my soul. I decided to surf down the rail a bit and as the wave came to an end my hair was flowing with the wind before it dropped back into the water.










