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Me right now, in real life I'm importing my blog to Squarespace with my own domain, like a real, grown up blog. I'm not very web savvy so fingers crossed it is live sooner rather than later. Updates to come.

#travel #travelwriting #realblog #40countriesbefore40 #40before40

The Faroe Islands: Torshavn

I don’t think I’ve still fully processed my thoughts on the Faroe Islands portion of my trip because I loved it so much. Then, I had the overnight in Reykjavik and I was so sad to leave. So, I really have no idea how to start this, I am going to keep it short for now. But, I’m just going to start with Torshavn, because it was my base. Torshavn is the capital of the small country and less than 20,000 people live in it and the surrounding area. It is small but has all that it needs, it felt bigger than I think a town in the in the States that size would feel, perhaps because it is the major harbor of the country (Torshavn literally means Thor’s Harbor). But the race and its participants might have made it feel more international as well with about 500 participants total, from the Torshavn, the Faroe Islands, the Nordic countries, and then the rest of us scattered around from all over the rest of the world.

The Faroe Islands had their own very distinct identity but as an outsider and an American, I did notice similiarities to Iceland. The natural landscape blew me away. It didn’t look exactly like Iceland, where there are a lot of volcanoes and glaciers, but it is more like the islands off of the coasts of Scotland and Ireland: rocky, steep, and green. Torshavn was hilly and the half-marathon I ran that started and ended there was very challenging because of this. I’ll save the race review for another day though.

Overall, I was completely charmed by this small town and its people. I got to know it very well over the course of the 5 days I made it my home base for exploring the islands. I will most definitely return and stay there. I will run the race again. I’m excited to see how the city grows and changes. The Faroese were kind, friendly, and curious as to what attracts tourists. Don’t worry, I told them!

#faroeislands #visittorshavn #torshavn #travel #40countriesbefore40 #40before40 #solotravel

Copenhagen - EAT & DRINK!

Aka, the start of Sonya’s Mikkeller Tour of Europe.

Madklubben Vesterbro - I ate at this place after I started walking to Warpigs from Mikkeller Bar, but then felt a little uncomfortable (it was late, I was tired, there were a few sketchy people) and headed back to the main street. I probably would have been PERFECTLY FINE. However, I was too tired to deal with harrassment in another language. Madklubben had a really tasty menu and is apparently the most popular restaurant to book at this time in Copenhagen. It was popular and I had great service at the bar. Rather large place, creative cocktail menu but I didn’t have one because I’d already had a lot of beer and decided to keep that train rolling with another one. Since I live in Chicago, I didn’t flinch at what I spent here, it was about $30 after a salad,a fish based appetizer, and a beer.

Copenhagen Street Food - This place was my favorite. All the locals were out enjoying the sun and eating and drinking on the patios. If I lived in Copenhagen I’d be here once a week. I’m sure it is really popular on Fridays after work and on the weekends. There were a few cocktail bars, a few beer vendors, and all the cuisines one could imagine. I ate Korean at the Korean Street Food vendor. The set up is an old warehouse building on what is known as Paper Island and it has been filled with food trucks. Go, you’ll love it and there are budget and expensive options here so its a crowd pleaser for a group or if you’re on an budget. I try to be.

Mikkeller Bar - My first taste of Mikkeller in Copenhagen, its a smaller location than its Nørrebro sibling but it has more “official” outdoor seating too.There’s a great mix of interesting brews on offer and I love that Mikkeller (and other bars in the Nordic countries) offer the 20 cl size for beer. Nothing is cheap, you will probably pay the equivalent of $7 plus for 20 cl of beer, but you’ll not find more unique beers anywhere either. I had three 20 cl sours and probably spent about $25.

Mikkeller and Friends - The Nørrebro location of the official Mikkeller bars in Copenhagen (Mikkeller has quite a few projects in the city). Larger space that is somewhat subterrranean but near a beautiful park and in the neighborhood that I liked so much. I had a couple of delicious sours here before heading off to do some shopping. I would say which ones but the menu is ever changing at Mikkeller so just know what type of beers you like and ask the bartenders on staff for suggestions if you’re overwhelmed by the 40 beers on tap.

Ruby Cocktail Bar - This place was suggested by my Google Trips app (which is a great app!) and I am glad that I went. It had a nice retro/throwback styled interior and the bartender on staff was dressed in suspenders and a button-down with dress pants (so kind of speakeasy style). He was friendly and extremely knowleldgable about his city and was chatty since it was fairly early and not too busy. He let me try a few different aquavits since I ordered an aquavit cocktail and didn’t know much about the liquor. I suggest stopping here for a break from the weather (no matter what it is!) and to recharge. The seating options are tables, comfy chairs, and a cozy and sunlight bar. Cocktails are about $12-$15.

Cava Bar Playa - I stopped in here to warm up before my walking tour and had a delicious glass of cava. There were some local women in there - about my age - celebrating one just getting her dream job. The man on staff was very nice and we were all chatting together at one point, from our different tables and him from the bar. The local women actually asked if I wanted to join them and had I not been going on a walking tour, I would have! They were so nice (more on the people in my next post). This bar did not have an innovative or crazy cocktails but stuck to the classics and good wine, which is fine by me! There’s an outdoor terrace with tables and heaters but on that particular day it was too windy to be outside. The bartender had to go tie everything down. My glass of wine was about $15 and I didn’t select the cheapest one.

Schønemann’s - I had to make a lunch reservation here! It is extremely popular and after dining there, I know why. The Danish open-faced sandwiches (smørrebrød) are their specialty and they were amazing. I ate an appetizer one and almost all of a lunch plate one. I had herring and salmon and a Carlsberg, which is the classic Danish beer, its no Mikkeller but I didn’t need anything fancy with lunch. I would go back here! It isn’t cheap, I spent about $40, but I also ordered two in order to sample and thinking the appetizer would be small and it was not. Service here was impeccable. Honestly, it was everywhere.

Copenhagen, I love you.

#travel #40before40 #40countriesbefore40 #Copenhagen #denmark #copenhagendining #copenhagenstreetfood #Mikkeller #beer #craftbeer

Copenhagen: SEE!

I’ve decided to break down my personal trip review of Copenhagen (i.e., not a “guide”) into three parts: See, Eat, and a general post on my impressions and thoughts. I’m going to jump right in with what I saw and where I went.

Since I stayed in an Airbnb with a family in their spare bedroom in South Copenhagen, I purchased the 72 hours Copenhagen Card, which was approximately $98 with the exchange rate. I thought it was a good deal because it included unlimited rides on CPH public transportation (bus and metro) as well as free entry to many of the museums.

Danish Museum of Art and Design - I loved this museum. I think it would be a good place to go for anyone, not just design fiends or even just Danish design enthusiasts. There was fashion, photography, furniture, mixed media, and a special exhibit on the Japanese influence on Danish design. There was also a great gift shop and cafe. This museum isn’t very close to a lot of other sights, but I felt it was worth the visit. Also, Copenhagen is not that big, and you can always rent bikes and bike to everything even as a tourist. Cycling seemed very safe in the city. I’m an idiot on a bicycle (hoping to change that) so I did not! This was included with the Copenhagen Card.

Statens Museum for Kunst - This place was very close to the Botanic Gardens, but did not open until 11. So I visited the gardens, then the Design museum, then breezed through this place. It is your typical State art museum with paintings from the Renaissance through the modern period. There was renovation going on when I was there so they’d created a special ground floor exhibit of the most special Nordic paintings and put them on one floor. I thank them for that, I was most looking forward to the more contemporary art and I was pleased. This museum isn’t huge so you can see it all in 2 hours or less. This was included with the Copenhagen Card.

Botanic Gardens - I was up with the sun so I went here because it was the only thing already open when I was out and about. But I am glad that I did! It was pretty and I imagine it must be quite busy on the weekends when the weather is lovely. There were so many beautiful flowers and plants. The greenhouse was filled with beautiful plants as well. This place was free.

Tivoli Gardens - I went here to see it all lit up at night because that is what a TripAdvisor person said was most magical and he was there with his kids. I got the feeling that he thought “I came all the way to Denmark and had to take my kids to a stupid amusement park, but the lights made it worth it”. So, I saved this for the end of a day and I was SO TIRED when I got there. It was my last day, I had walked all over, I got there at about 8 pm and then remembered that it would not be dark for about 2 more hours. Oy. I walked around the park, where people were having fun on the rides and playing games! There were some interesting circus-like stage shows happening, and some live classical music, however I needed to sit. After I circled through the park, I sat with a view of the most famous white palace looking building, at an outdoor cafe under some heat lamps, and ordered a coffee and a caramel sundae. I enjoyed the peace and quiet for about an hour before it was finally dark and then I snapped photos, bought some souvenirs, and took the bus home with dozens of drunk teenagers and 20-somethings who had been at Distortion. I got stuck in the Distortion crowd two nights in a row! Woohoo! (More about this later in probably both CPH posts). Entry was included with the CPH Card - rides are extra.

Round Tower - This was worth the climb to the top because Copenhagen does not have any hills of notable size to view the city from so a climb up a tower was in order to get a 360 degree view. The climb was mostly a ramp that just circled up, and a very short and steep staircase at the end (like 10 steps or less) so it is actually a good climb for anyone who is claustrophobic because the ramps were spacious! There was also a mini-museum type display on almost each floor on the way up as well as public toilets so there were places to rest. Included on CP Card.

Christiania and more to read here, and here - The last link is a Buzzfeed article, but sometimes they are right on (actually many times). I did a great walking tour that ended up near Christiania. I don’treally have any words to describe this place and photos were not allowed so I just want to say you should read the arcticles I’ve linked, go yourself, and form your own opinion. I think it is really cool that it exists and coexists somewhat peacefully within Copenhagen, Denmark. It is a bit hippie, a bit strange, but good for them. My walking tour was free and I tipped the guide about $10 after the exchange rate.

The Little Mermaid - This is a “pass” for most people because it is kind of a hike from all of the main attractions. However, I went my first day because I needed to walk and adjust to time change. I am also a huge fan of the Little Mermaid, both the original Hans Christian Andersen tale as well as the animated Disney version, so I had to see her in person. :) Free because it is a statute and there are no restrictions around seeing it.

Nørrebro - Very cool neighborhood, if I lived in Copenhagen, I’d want to live here. Lots of shops, restaurants, and bars. I did some shopping in this area after spending the morning wandering around the main “downtown” area and then having lunch at a place I’ll review in another post - then I took the bus to Nørrebro. I wandered and took a few photos, then shopped, bought some jeans, a cool earring, and some small gifts, and then had a few beers at Mikkeller and Friends before continuing on to Copenhagen Street Food and then Tivoli (omg what a full day I had my last day!) My favorite shopping street in Nørrebro was recommended to me by a friend of a friend and it was called Jæggersbroggade.

Nyhavn - If you have seen any photo of Copenhagen, I’m going to bet it is either Den Lille Havfrue (the Little Mermaid) OR, some extremely colorful rowhouse looking buildings that line a canal that leads to the port that was once one of the busiest in the world. Nyhavn means “new harbor” and is the name for the area. There are restaurants with outdoor patios and boat tours leave from canal - it is extremely touristy. However, you must see it. I headed straight for it my first day and it was cloudy. I passed it a second day and it was a little bit brighter. My last full day I was close by and had time to kill (how?) and it was SUNNY and I ran over to snap a third group of photos of the colorful architecture. Must-see, for sure. Some of the houses date from the late 1600′s and Hans Christian Andersen lived on the street.

#travel #wanderlust #40before40 #40countriesbefore40 #copenhagen #denmark

Friday Favorites

Travel:

Icky travel news about carry-ons. Prepare, its coming.

Travel apps for green travel.

Tips to staying healthy while you travel - I’ll be trying to enforce these next week!

Anthony Bourdain’s thoughts (all good!) on Iran.

Budgeting for travel! This is pretty much my method.

Keeping it short and sweet this week because it has been BUSY. I am checking in to say I have kept up the morning meditation and yoga, for the most part. I’ve been happy to start my morning with a little peace and “me” time. Have a wonderful Memorial Day weekend and I will have some short posts for you next week in real time while I travel.

#travel #40countriesbefore40 #40before40 #wanderlust #fridayfavorites

Copenhagen Eat and Drink

The photo above is from Taboga Island in Panama, but I felt the heart was appropriate because I’m about to get excited about Copenhagen bars and restaurants that I am going to hit up while I’m there.

Ruby Cocktail Chronicles - I have an early reservation here for Wednesday night, I’m excited to try this cocktail bar that has a seasonal menu and seems pretty strict about reservations.

Mikkeller & Friends - I’m not naming just one of the many in Copenhagen because I will hopefully go to mulitple locations (do they have a Mikkeller passport?). I honestly can’t want to try Warpigs.

Norreboro Bryghus - I am excited to try the food and organic beer at this place and have a reservation for dinner there the same evening as Ruby but at 8 pm.

BrewDog - Planning on popping over to Malmo one day to check out this place and have a late afternoon beer (probably after the museum in Malmo, more details later) and then head back to Copenhagen for dinner on my last night.

I also have a few coffee places that I really want to try, coffee culture is important in Copenhagen and I love coffee so of course I’m going to try as much as I can. But breakfast is provided at my Airbnb! I eat like a lumberjack though so I’m sure I’ll be snacking mid morning and checking out the food options at any of the coffee options.

Six days until departure!

#40countriesbefore40 #40before40 #travel #copenhagen #denmark #sweden #malmo #scandispring17

One week until I leave

I’ve reached the one week mark! I packed a little bit this weekend and what I have packed may change - it seems like I am going to have to deal with a range of temperatures. That’s always a challenge. Confession: I do not own hiking boots and I think I need some for the Faroe Islands. However, I’m annoyed because I already have plans to pack 3 pairs of shoes and to add a fourth pair seems excessive even if one pair will be worn on the plane, harrumph!

I have been pinning and adding some fun places to visit in Copenhagen to maximize my time. And I’m planning on heading to Malmo, Sweden for my last day to have lunch at a brewery and explore a modern art museum and be back in Copenhagen by the evening for dinner and a last hurrah.

I ran 10 miles this past weekend and oh man am I ready to run this race and not have to train anymore. I like running, I’m excited to run this half-marathon, but my right hip flexor is not happy these days. I need a break from race training to let it heal properly. Either way, with work and life, I am ready for a trip again. Traveling feeds my soul, however corny that sounds, it is true.

#travel #40countriesbefore40 #40before40 #wanderlust