#agnes jonker

[zoominag]

1800-1849

This is part of a series in which I am posting clips of my larger project by decade as I finish them. For more about this project, or to ask me to include your doll or OC, check out my pinned post.

Previous posts:

17th century

1700-1739

1740-1769

1770-1799

The OCs in this post that are mine are Charlotte and Jane, Rachel and Abigail, and Hannah and Delia (they're in pairs because I did the Best Friends series based on @americangirlstar's suggestions, and in the process created a Best Friend for each of my own characters). Héloise and Aoife belong to @autistickirstenlarson, Violette belongs to @getintothesun, and Charlotte belongs to @gardner-n-pardner.

While putting together previous installations I became aware that I have the birth dates wrong for several of the canon characters. I'm planning a redo for the canon character set, eventually, so please do let me know if I'm wrong about anyone. I might already know, but since I have pretty severe dyscalculia as well as ADHD it's not bad to have the info available in multiple places.

1800s

Charlotte Finch: 85-94 Jane Finch: 83-92 Héloise Cormier: 46-55 Kaya'aton'my: 45-54 Speaking Rain: 45-54 Felicity Merriman: 35-44 Elizabeth Cole: 35-44 Rachel Gabay: 20-29 Abigail Schorr: 20-29 Lydia Livingston: 1-10 Caroline Abbott: 0-8

This is it, as narrow as skirts are going to get for about a century. Everyone was really into looking like Greek and Roman statues, so white dresses in drapey fabrics were the rage for young women. Caroline and Lydia are a little young for that style though. Before I decided to add the Best Friends to the project, I put Lydia's dress in Caroline's collection, but then I did make Lydia and made the green dress her meet outfit. Now that I'm thinking about a redo, I want to give Caroline a completely different dress, maybe that also has those sheer sleeves.

1810s

Charlotte Finch: 95-99 Jane Finch: 93-99 Héloise Cormier: 56-65 Kaya'aton'my: 55-64 Speaking Rain: 55-64 Felicity Merriman: 45-54 Elizabeth Cole: 45-54 Rachel Gabay: 30-39 Abigail Schorr: 30-39 Lydia Livingston: 11-20 Caroline Abbott: 9-18 Clara Montoya: 0-7 Josefina Montoya: 0-5

The switch from wearing their skirts calf-length with visible pantalettes to ankle-length might have been an exciting growing-up moment for Caroline and Lydia. At the same time, the silhouettes are getting less flowy with stiffer fabrics and little puffs on the sleeves. Meanwhile, in New Mexico, I gave Clara styles based on illustrations of Ana and Francisca as well as leftovers from Josefina's collection, and then afterward decided to do a siblings series, so...whoops again, I guess.

1820s

Héloise Cormier: 66-75 Kaya'aton'my: 65-74 Speaking Rain: 65-74 Felicity Merriman: 55-64 Elizabeth Cole: 55-64 Rachel Gabay: 40-49 Abigail Schorr: 40-49 Lydia Livingston: 21-30 Caroline Abbott: 19-28 Clara Montoya: 8-17 Josefina Montoya: 6-15 Hannah Kane: 0-5 Delia Freedman: 0-5 Violette Metoyer: 0-5

The early Regency was all about long, narrow lines, but now the width is coming back, along with growing sleeve puffs and lots of horizontal lines. Frills, lace, and bows are starting to show up on skirts, and hairstyles are starting to get tall again. It's coincidence that @getintothesun's Violette is the same age as my Hannah and Delia, but drawing them together is turning out to be a fun exercise: Hannah and Delia are comparatively plainly-dressed kids, appropriate to their hardworking lives on the Erie Canal, while Violette has a richness in her wardrobe that works with her comfortable life in the Louisiana warmth.

1830s

Héloise Cormier: 76-85 Kaya'aton'my: 75-84 Speaking Rain: 75-84 Felicity Merriman: 65-74 Elizabeth Cole: 65-74 Rachel Gabay: 50-59 Abigail Schorr: 50-59 Lydia Livingston: 31-40 Caroline Abbott: 29-38 Clara Montoya: 18-27 Josefina Montoya: 16-25 Hannah Kane: 6-15 Delia Freedman: 6-15 Violette Metoyer: 6-15 Aoife Callaghan: 0-3

This decade for the first time we have two members of the @autistickirstenlarson extended universe in play! Each of her characters has a strong color palette for their collection: not every outfit incorporates the theme colors, but enough do to feel like the character herself has a preference. For Héloise, the go-to colors are blue and brown. For Aoife it's green and cream.

1840s

Héloise Cormier: 86-95 Kaya'aton'my: 85-94 Speaking Rain: 85-94 Felicity Merriman: 75-84 Elizabeth Cole: 75-84 Rachel Gabay: 60-69 Abigail Schorr: 60-69 Lydia Livingston: 41-50 Caroline Abbott: 39-48 Clara Montoya: 28-37 Josefina Montoya: 26-35 Hannah Kane: 16-25 Delia Freedman: 16-25 Violette Metoyer: 16-25 Aoife Callaghan: 4-13 Cecile Rey: 0-7 Marie-Grace Gardner: 0-7 Kirsten Larson: 0-5 Singing Bird: 0-5 Charlotte Devereux: 0

I struggled a lot with finding accurate, non-exoticizing references for Singing Bird, as I did for Kaya and Speaking Rain. As a result, it feels necessary to include a disclaimer to the effect that this project should not be viewed as an accurate source for Nimiipuu, Salish, or Lakota clothing. Please do not cite me as a reference. While it was easy to find examples of modern-day Nimiipuu , Salish, and Lakota regalia, and there are photos of individual garments from the 18th and 19th centuries on display in museums, it was hard to get a feel for what an outfit might accurately have looked like, without entering into a level of research that would have been way beyond the scope of this project. That said, I do intend to eventually go back and redo the canon characters, so if someone seeing this does have access to and familiarity with good 18th and 19th century Nimiipuu, Salish, and Lakota clothing references, and the time and patience to share it with me, I will absolutely use them in the redo. For now, please know that the probable inaccuracies in my drawings of these characters are not intended as disrespect, and as always I am open to knowledgeable correction.

As always, to get your historical doll or OC included in this project, HERE'S THE LINK. Obviously if your doll is from earlier than the 1840s they'll have to wait for the next round of drawings, but you're welcome to put them in the form.

[zoominag]

I'm back to drawing after a hiatus while my life was very busy, and I decided I might have a nice time if I post my progress by decade, and maybe you guys will have fun too. I'm going to put all of the 17th century in one post since it starts in 1654, and after that I'll figure out what feels right for a single post.

Editing with links to the next posts: 1700-1739, 1740-1769, 1770-1799, 1800-1849

1650s Susanna Hanchett: 0-5

Susanna belongs to @desertdollranch. Learn more about Susanna here.

1660s Susanna Hanchett: 6-15

Styles didn't change much around the end of the 17th century, especially for a young Quaker girl like Susanna.

1670s Susanna Hanchett: 16-25 Mazal Cardozo: 0-5 Agnes Jonker: 0-5

When Susanna was a child, she wore styles very much like the adults around her, but by the time Mazal and Agnes are children, there's beginning to be a separate style of dress for children. Mostly, their clothes look very much like the adult versions, but they fasten in the back and are covered by an apron in the front, and although I didn't draw them, they would probably have had attached leading strings for parents to hold on to them by.

Mazal and Agnes are my own OCs.

1680s Susanna Hanchett: 26-35 Mazal Cardozo: 6-15 Agnes Jonker: 6-15

As Mazal and Agnes get older, the mantua comes into style, an open gown over a matching or contrasting petticoat. The mantua was often tied up in a loose bustle in back, but could also be worn hanging down. Mantuas were worn with a tall, lacy cap called a frontage. In the 1680s, the neckline was wide and round, and sleeves were very short, with soft sleeves showing underneath.

1690s Susanna Hanchett: 36-45 Mazal Cardozo: 16-25 Agnes Jonker: 16-25

In the 1690s the shape of the mantua became narrower both in the skirt and the neckline. Frontages got very tall too, for an overall long and narrow silhouette.

[zoominag]

1770-1799

This is part of a series in which I am posting clips of my larger project by decade as I finish them. For more about this project, or to ask me to include your doll or OC, check out my pinned post.

Previous posts:

17th century

1700-1739

1740-1769

Following posts:

1800-1849

The OCs in this post that are mine are Mazal and Agnes, Charlotte and Jane, and Rachel and Abigail (they're in pairs because I did the Best Friends series based on @americangirlstar's suggestions, and in the process created a Best Friend for each of my own characters). Héloise belongs to @autistickirstenlarson.

1770s

Mazal Cardozo: 96-99 Agnes Jonker: 96-99 Charlotte Finch: 55-64 Jane Finch: 53-62 Héloise Cormier: 16-25 Kaya'aton'my: 15-24 Speaking Rain: 15-24 Felicity Merriman: 5-14 Elizabeth Cole: 5-14

I talked in another post about the decision to give Elizabeth Felicity's Beforever meet dress and move her meet dress to go with other party clothes, but the long and short of it is that, like the other Best Friend dolls, Elizabeth's collection is smaller than the number of outfits in the pattern I've been following, so I gave her several of the dresses that I hadn't used for Felicity. I also used photos of costume hobbyists and employees at Colonial Williamsburg to fill out her collection.

1780s

Charlotte Finch: 65-74 Jane Finch: 63-72 Héloise Cormier: 26-35 Kaya'aton'my: 25-34 Speaking Rain: 25-34 Felicity Merriman: 15-24 Elizabeth Cole: 15-24 Rachel Gabay: 0-9 Abigail Schorr: 0-9

There's a significant shift in the silhouette during this decade. Skirts are getting narrower, hairstyles and hats are getting larger, and casual styles like the round gown are starting to come into vogue. Rachel, my OC representing the Jewish community of Rhode Island, and her best friend Abigail, are most often dressed in simple, high-waisted gowns with colorful sashes. Their formal dresses are white with pink or blue sashes, a common style for girls of all ages and for very small boys--both colors were popular for either gender.

When we talk about a company like AG trying to correct for its lack of representation for any marginalized American population, it can be understandable and simultaneously frustrating for the one example to focus on a major turning point in that population's history. Addy and Rebecca are similar in that way: on the one hand, if there's only going to be one period in history to represent this population, the end of the Civil War and the Jewish immigration boom from Russia in the early 20th century are obvious choices, but does there have to only be one? Cecile and Melody--and Claudie, one hopes--show otherwise. So if there were going to be a second Jewish historical, Rhode Island in 1790 is my first pick. George Washington's letter to the Jewish community of Newport still resonates with American Jewish communities today. His promise of a government that gives "to bigotry no sanction, to persecution no assistance" is a dream that has never been fully realized, but has never been forgotten.

1790s

Charlotte Finch: 75-84 Jane Finch: 73-82 Héloise Cormier: 36-45 Kaya'aton'my: 35-44 Speaking Rain: 35-44 Felicity Merriman: 25-34 Elizabeth Cole: 25-34 Rachel Gabay: 10-19 Abigail Schorr: 10-19 Lydia Livingston: 0

The period of English political history known as the Regency and the period of fashion history named after it don't perfectly align: although the political period had not yet begun, when we look at the high waists and narrow silhouettes that begin during this period we usually describe them as being Regency fashion.

Part of the problem with doing a project based on dates is that I have severe dyscalculia. Although I drew the canon American Girl dolls and Best Friends more than a year ago, it took me until this week to realize I had Lydia and Caroline one year older than canon. For the time being, I'm going to proceed as I had them, but I'm planning a redraw of the first series I did, and when I do that I'll move them and anyone else I didn't get quite right to the right birth year.

[zoominag]

1740-1769

Continuing my posts of a few decades at a time as I go along.

Previous posts:

17th century

1700-1739

Following posts:

1770-1799

1800-1849

Susanna Hanchett belongs to @desertdollranch and Héloise belongs to @autistickirstenlarson. Mazal and Agnes and Charlotte and Jane are my own. Excited to have some of the canon American Girl characters finally appear!

1740s

Susanna Hanchett: 86-95 Mazal Cardozo: 66-75 Agnes Jonker: 66-75 Charlotte Finch: 25-34 Jane Finch: 23-32

Wide panniers are still in fashion, especially for formalwear. Orientalism and pastoralism have visible influences on fashion, particularly in the colorful fabrics and the sheer linen aprons too fine for actual work. The last vestige of the robe battante can be seen in the pleated "sack back" of the robe a la francaise.

1750s

Susanna Hanchett: 96-99 Mazal Cardozo: 76-85 Agnes Jonker: 76-85 Charlotte Finch: 35-44 Jane Finch: 33-42 Héloise Cormier: 0-5 Kaya'aton'my: 0-4 Speaking Rain: 0-4

Reaching the end of Susanna's story was bittersweet. Thank you so much to @desertdollranch for trusting me with Susanna: I hope you enjoyed seeing her grow up and slowly change decade by decade. At the same time, we get to meet Héloise, the first of @autistickirstenlarson's OCs to appear in this project. Learn more about Héloise here.

Kaya and Singing Bird are finally here as well! Kaya's community, the Nimiipuu, are not unaffected by the arrival of Euorpeans on the continent--Kaya's books mention smallpox, horses, and other echoes of European settlement far to the East--but they haven't made formal contact yet, and won't until Louis and Clark make contact with the nations of the Pacific Northwest in 1805. Kaya will be 50 then. For now, she is dressed in the same style buckskin dresses that she will wear throughout her story and probably throughout her life.

1760s

Mazal Cardozo: 86-95 Agnes Jonker: 86-95 Charlotte Finch: 45-54 Jane Finch: 43-52 Héloise Cormier: 6-15 Kaya'aton'my: 5-14 Speaking Rain: 5-14 Felicity Merriman: 0-4 Elizabeth Cole: 0-4

Felicity and Elizabeth may be an ocean apart for now, but they are dressed in a similar fashion. They both wear "long clothes," plain white gowns that trail below their feet, as infants, and "short clothes," plain white knee-length gowns, as toddlers. After that they are dressed very much like their mothers, with the addition of leading strings, which I have not drawn. We start to see Kaya and Singing Bird's fashions diverge, as Singing Bird begins to spend time with her Salish family as well as her Nimiipuu family of origin.

For the adults, skirt width has reached its most extreme and begun to slim down again. Hairstyles that have been curled tightly around their heads are beginning to get taller, and caraco jackets over petticoats are common casual wear.