#alec steele

[verdx]

Wait, Alec Steele is in the production team of Dimension 20. Like, swordsmith Alec Steele!?!?!?!

[fidgetspringer]

Sometimes I'm horrified to remember that there might be people out there who don't know about the treasure that is Alec Steele.

[kingofthepitt]

[miner0rw00zer]

This is an Alec Steele appreciation post

[suwunnysideup]

was playin around with dnd character ideas when suddenly alec happened. she’s a deep gnome barbarian/fighter!

[macabee-613]

Quench Safety

I like that Alec Steele posts his mistakes as well as successes but this is just crazy. It would be nice if he discussed what went wrong and why.

Obviously his quench tank was over filled and the displacement from the giant sword was not considered. It's also important to remember that oil expands rapidly as it heats it becomes less viscous and thinner as well so as it starts to flow like water it gets everywhere taking the fire with it. Glad he's ok but damn that was dumb.

[xenonreality]

im at 15.30 & I've noticed something that you probably already know about, but just in case, the nuts are moving & slowly coming undone. I know it might not mean much, but maybe. Other than that, the valve is rubbing & will wear in, but could become something of a pre-failure because of increased stresses on your valve, maybe. Maybe completing the other groove & putting another matching one on the other side might just give you what you want, or just I'm worried for no reason. Because lube, & a better spring isn't out of the question, but its because of how much work it is to take it apart & put it back together again that makes me also feel like maybe something for the future to deal with. But like.... yeah, I dunno I'd like to do it too.

BTW! ABSOLUTELY CONGRATS! Dude, it works far better than it did ever before, all your hard work has fully paid off & you have a hammer that is amazing. If you wanted to sell restoration for customers, they are likely going to be annoyed if you didn't do that final valve stuff, but that's not what you are doing okay. It's yours! YOur hard work & amazing efforts with others that got you to the point of having a hammer you love now.

If you sell it later, they will get you on the valve.

Just saying, I'd have to agree with them as a bystander. It's worth far far more, don't even, but yeah.

ANYways. Not a thing to have to get all pointed towards, great work & awesome stuff. If it fails you know every single dang facet of this hammer & will absolutely be able to make it work beautifully again. Prepare for the onslaught of damascus steel comments until whenever that might go away.

[xenonreality]

New looking lenses & better wide angles eh? Looks good, great editing these days ;)

the ring gap bla bla bla. yada yada.

Put a sleeve around the rings when you heat them & clench them. Also, using a thick boy steel pot with a bunch of liquid n2, add in argon to warm up the liquid n2 & a little bit of oil that is resistant to chemical reaction & low oxidation, if you want during that you can add in nano graphite to increase lubricity. But that's usually after the fact, although the nano graphite does get in there pretty far during the shock cooling moment.

Pressures are usually around 15 bar or higher, nothing past 50 bar. You need a pressure release valve to have it maintain the pressure in the vessel, pouring in the (which, I don't think that is more just blowing it in, but whatever) super cold argon, n2, & oil mix to the pot is what allows for the hot part to expand everything up to pressure. You don't have to have a lot of pressure, just a lot of gas. Yes this is my other account, I'm xenonreality.

Argon & n2 have a better cooling efficiency than atmospheric gas, but even better when added with a good oil & made to be under pressure. Which, most, good thick steel pots will handle it. It needs a grate on the bottom to make that work & a pre-vacuuming to help it. So you take it from the forge, vacuum it out, then shove in all that gas quickly & pull it out. After about 30 min. After releasing the pressure please lol.

Anyways, yes the piston ring gap needs to be sized up to the heat of your air being used, sure. But that's basic calculations that perplexity will easily give you. I'm more worried about your bore in your hammer.

That's right, that dude probably is a Llllliiiiittttllllleee off. Also your rings will expand into being more circle like later as they heat up. But the off of circle your bore is will too. Which is why boring that dude is reallllllyyy Sssuuupperrr important.

Finding a non-laser based micrometer for something that big is going to be a huge pain. Let alone moving off & to where ever it is that it needs to go to to get it measured & done. Quite frankly, I'm fairly surprised the people didn't comment that on the sort by top comments.

I'm glad your upping the game on editing & filming. The craze going on during the wide angle slight fish eye effect on top of the hammer was just perfect for old style movies. Same for capturing the intenseness of his realization of rings after trying to fit them. Coefficient of thermal expansion during heating & friction is a pretty simple calculation for your hammer bore & those rings, same for the given simulation you can run showing the possible issues in tolerance ranges. It'll make you happier in the end.

*edit*

to be fair, I barely remember you going to the dude to get something bored out. I don't remember if it was this hammer bore or something else, but that's the problem with me. I will 100% start stressing about that side before the piston rings & start measuring everything & wanting to know the possible densities in the metal in those areas to know how much expansion in that area due to heating or not, if a pocket exists there or not, I just stress. I dunno. I'm sure if you did it already its good to go, but then metal doesn't care if it wasn't there for whatever reason. Anyways, did it already then its all piston rings allllll tthhee wwwaayayy~.