The ALMA telescope is on a plateau at 5000m altitude in Chile -- the same height as the Everest base camp. I got to go up to visit the site in May.
Before my trip up, I'd already spent a few days at the ALMA operations site at 2900m. Even this is high enough that you really notice the effect of altitude -- carrying my suitcase the short distance into my room the first night there left my heart pumping. However, 5000m is a lot more serious.
The journey starts with a quick trip to the ALMA medical room, to have my heart rate and bloody pressure checked. After I've been passed, its time to make sure I've got sunscreen and sunglasses -- as well as gloves, a wooly hat and a warm jacket. Its pretty cold up on the site on the day I visit, but the high altitude means the sunlight is a lot stronger than it is at ground level, and you want to keep the UV away.
We also make sure we've got blood-oxygen monitors and some cans of compressed air. The oxygen levels at 5000m are low enough that you want to keep an eye on your blood-oxygen level and take regular breaths from the oxygen.
The landscape around the site is amazing, and to someone used to a wet and green Britain the dry Chilean mountains look like an alien landscape. This is a view from a peak overlooking some of the more far-flung ALMA antenna pads -- you can just see the roads out to the most distant pads in the left. Once its completed, ALMA will have its dishes spread out around the plateau, with up to 16km between them.
Even though I didn't have to do anything more physically taxing than walk around for a few minutes, I can feel the effect of the low oxygen as I wander around snapping picture. I have to consciously remind myself to keep taking extra deep breaths, as well as occasional breaths from the cans of oxygen we've brought. But people have had to build all the telescope infrastructure in these conditions -- roads, power lines, antenna pads, buildings, radio masts, weather stations, all had to be constructed or installed at the high site. As well as an amazing scientific instrument, ALMA is also a hugely impressive engineering project, constructed under very difficult conditions.
Below, you can see an overview of the central region of the ALMA site. The individual dishes are spread out over about 2km in this picture. Once the telescopes construction is finsihed, the massive 12m dishes will be moved around the site regularly -- averaging about one dish moving every single day.
We drive back down to the 5000m plateau where the ALMA antennas live to take a close up look at them. In the picture below you can see the antennas clustered together from a lot closer up. The building off to the right of the image contains the ALMA correlator. The correlator is where the signal from each of the dishes are combined together to create one much more detailed image. The level of detail we can see is determined by the size of the distances between the individual dishes instead of by the size of a single dish.
And here's a close up of some of the 12m dishes. ALMA will eventually have 66 dishes, and as of May this year they already had 33 dishes at the 5000m site! The dishes are a mix of 12m dishes and a few 7m dishes. The 7m ones are placed very close together in the centre of the array, and this helps ensure that ALMA can produce more accurate images. Each of the 12m dishes weighs almost 100 tonnes, and the special transporters that move them to and from the different pads has to have a 28-wheel drive!
After this we head back down to the comfort of the ALMA operations site -- after a few hours spent at 5000m, the lower site feels far more comfortable than it did in the morning!