#bear takedown

[essence-of-nightshade]

My new bow arrived!!

Case instert wipped up in half a day so I could go shooting at the range in the afternoon :3

[beararcheryproducts]

One of the great aspects of traditional archery is the simplicity. There's just not a lot of moving parts. Setting up a traditional bow forces you to learn some of the basics of archery and look at the bow-arrow dynamic from a perspective that you may not see as a compound shooter, so lets take a look, set up a bow, and go have some fun.

In the video below we'll unbox and set up the classic Bear Takedown.

Takedown Setup Video: https://youtu.be/Hd8XvD3BD8M

Whether a 3-piece of riser and two limbs like the Takedown, or a single piece longbow or recurve, you're only dealing with three things -- the bow, string, and an arrow. There are no cams to adjust for draw length or draw weight - that is all dictated by the physical flexing properties of the bow itself. If you're new to traditional archery, I'd suggest starting with a bow in the 40-50 draw weight range, and you can hunt with that for most North American game for your entire hunting life if you so choose. 60" bows are average for most shooters. My personal preference is a 56" bow for added maneuverability in tight spaces with the shorter length. That makes for a more compact 'feel' on the bow when drawn than a longer bow will yield. To find your personal preference, it's best to get out there and try and few.

Now that we have a bow chosen and built, it's time to fit a string. For that it's always best to use a stringer, and the smaller loop of the string goes on the bottom tip, and larger loop on the upper limb. Go ahead and string it, and using a standard bow square take a measurement of the Brace Height from the lowest point of the grip on the bow riser to the string. Every bow has a recommended brace height, usually around 8" +/- an inch. Too low of a brace height (string too close to riser), and prepare yourself for some arm slap and a noisy bow. Too high (string too far from riser), and the bow will be too stiff and you won't get much power into the arrow since the distance the string travels when released is reduced. Every bow has an ideal balance between the two, and that's the brace height.

If it measures too low, unstring the bow, and twist the string in the direction it's wound. That will shorten the string, and bend it a little more the next time you string it, increasing the brace height. Do the opposite to lengthen the string and reduce the brace height. You can usually get it about right in just a couple iterations.

The last primary step is to set a nocking point on the string to consistently nock your arrow. You can do that with serving or even dental floss, but crimp on brass nocks are quick and easy, and easily adjusted. To start, just put the bow square on the shelf, and crimp the nock on the string in line with the upper edge of the bow square. Done.

After that you have a choice on installing a quiver or not. Some people like bow mounted quivers, some like quivers on their back, hip or pack. All have their pros and cons. I personally prefer bow mounted quivers when hunting, and the inserts in the Takedown riser make it easy to install them. I use a custom quiver made by the folks at Thunderhorn in Montana that mounts to the inserts, but there are strap-on quivers that will work on nearly any traditional bow by strapping around the limbs.

That's pretty much it -- your bow is now set up at a good starting point. Have fun out there, and shoot straight.

Author: Damon Bungard

[essence-of-nightshade]

Set my brace height, nocking point and fur string silencers she's all good to go now. I'll take it to the range as soon to break it in as I'm confident it's not going to rain

[essence-of-nightshade]

New legendary weapon unlocked