Hi everyone, @star-anise here, the news is awful and I'm terrified, so I'm gonna focus on what I can do and crunch some data.
Summary: I have been making chest binders for use by AFAB trans, genderqueer, and nonbinary individuals, using a publicly-accessible DIY method. 4 prototypes have been used so far, from two months to a few weeks, by 2 individuals who have some chronic breathing problems but no chronic pain or joint instability conditions. So far, these prototypes are as comfortable or more comfortable than other binding methods. They produce fewer reported health effects, and cause less pain or discomfort. Wearers report some shortness of breath, but say these binders do not restrict their daily activities or ability to exercise. Their materials cost about half the price of an off-the-shelf commercial binder. Bone length affected the amount of flatness the binders produced relative to commercial binders. There are some issues with pinching, minor discomfort, and bone placing.
What I have to report right now is data from 4 prototypes spread out over 2 wearers. Because this data pool is too small to be statistically analyzed, I'm providing summaries of the raw responses. This probably won’t happen to every response as more come in--these respondents knew their answers would be gone over in detail. In the future, data will be analyzed more in large batches to look at trends.
Prototypes 001 and 002 were boned sports bras with wide straps, using 8 heavy-duty zip tie bones each 5.5" in length. It was designed to reduce a 44" chest with a 36" ribcage to 40". Their wearer took the survey 2 months after having the binders, having worn them (mostly 002) for 6 hours/day approximately twice a week. Their wearer had previously used a GC2B nude half binder. The wearer also has asthma/breathing problems.
Binder 001 was compressed with three rows of ribbon sewn horizontally. The respondent rated it as less comfortable than binder 002, which was compressed with elastic sewn across the chest. Binder 002's 1"-wide elastic became slightly crumpled and disfigured the longer it was worn. Each binder was made using a sports bra (3 for $18) and one $10 transformation kit each.
The wearer reported about both binders that:
The binders did cause pinching or slight discomfort
The binders did not cause pain or serious discomfort
The binders did cause slight difficulty breathing
The binders did not limit ability to do daily activities
The binders did not limit ability to exercise
The binders did not cause change to the shape or texture of chest tissue
The wearer commented, "Inability to breathe is happens to me no matter what I'm using for my chest area. Be it bras, bralettes, or binders. It's partially due to anxiety as well as discomfort from having something constricting my chest. But the inability to breathe with this binder is minimal and on par with using a bralette or sports bra (which are the easiest garments for me to breathe with while using in my experience)."
Compared to a previously-worn GC2B nude half binder, the wearer reported:
The prototype was much more comfortable than the previous binder
The prototype provided a slightly flatter chest than the previous binder
The prototype caused much less pain/negative health effects than the previous binder
The prototype was slightly less convenient/discreet than the previous binder.
The wearer also commented during conversation with me that this binder was much cooler and more breathable than the GC2B binder, since the fiber absorbed sweat and allowed it to evaporate. They cited being able to put groceries away in their car during a hot, humid summer as something they were able to do in this binder, but not the GC2B binder.
Health conditions reported using both the prototypes and previous binding methods:
Shortness of breath
Health conditions reported using the prototype, but not previous binding methods:
None
Health conditions reported using the previous binder, but not the prototype:
Chest pain
Bad posture
Shoulder pain
Shoulder joint "popping"
The respondent summarized:
"Even with slight pinching, normally after a few hours of use, it's really the best binding method I've ever used as well as the best method for chest management that I've ever used. It's easy to put on, it allows me to move pretty freely, and it lessens the appearance of chest tissue significantly. I think if the boning was a tad bit shorter that would make the binder a bit more discreet and that's the only thing I can think to improve upon at this time. "
Prototypes 003 and 004 were boned sports bras with spaghetti straps, using 10 heavy-duty zip tie bones each 4" in length. It was designed to reduce a 42" chest with a 36" ribcage to 40". Prototypes 003 and 004 were identical apart from colour. Their wearer took the survey less than a month after having the binders, having worn them for 13 hours/day approximately twice a week. Their wearer had previously used a GC2B nude half binder. The wearer also has asthma/breathing problems.
This binder was constructed to be more gentle and provide less constriction, because of reported chest pain from a previous binding method. Accordingly, its 4" bones were only half the height of the binder front. This binder had straight up-and-down bones at the side seam, which jabbed somewhat into the armpit.
The wearer reported about both binders that:
The binders did cause slight pinching or slight discomfort
The binders did not cause pain or serious discomfort
The binders did not cause slight difficulty breathing
The binders did not limit ability to do daily activities
The binders did not limit ability to exercise
The binders did not cause change to the shape or texture of chest tissue
Compared to a previously-worn GC2B binder, the wearer reported:
The prototype was about as comfortable as the previous binder
The prototype provided a slightly less flattening than the previous binder
The prototype caused slightly less pain/negative health effects than the previous binder
The prototype was much more convenient/discreet than the previous binder.
Health conditions reported using both the prototypes and previous binding methods (the GC2B binder and also a small sports bra)
None
Health conditions reported using the prototype, but not previous binding methods:
None
Health conditions reported using the previous binder, but not the prototype:
Chest pain
Change in chest tissue shape/texture
The respondent summarized:
"I use a gc2b binder for (near) total flatness but the binder prototype I have is a really good alternative for the days when I can’t wear my binder but can’t deal with the dysphoria I get. The prototype is really good for when I don’t have the mental capacity to put on my binder. Some days I can’t be bothered to wear and the prototype is easier to pull on."
Comments and observations by @star-anise: I made all of the binders analyzed here. A major question in this experiment is bone length and hiding the bones. How long should bones be? What happens if bones are too short or too long? P003 and P004 were slightly on the "too short" side, while P001 and P002 were slightly on the "too long" side--however, both of these measurements are relative to the total size of the chest and can't be generalized for everyone.
For all of these prototypes, the bones were bulky and visible through an average tank top. Heavy duty zip ties are relatively thick, and the bone casing used was twill tape, which is additionally bulky. Finding a more discreet boning method would help improve the binders.
Since the side bones are jabbing 003/004's wearer in the armpits, I'm going to look into modifying those prototypes, and the binder tutorial, in the near future.
This survey tracks the health effects of registered boned binder prototypes. Once you have a prototype number from Prototype Registration, you can take this survey to keep us updated on what it’s like to wear.
If you want us to recognize you as the same person wearing different binders, or wearing the same binder over time, please give us your email address at the beginning of the survey to help us track you. This will be anonymized and not used to contact you. There’s a separate place at the end of the survey to include a contact email.
After six or seven different models, I finally came up with two prototypes that felt ready for field testing
Today I put these two in the mail. Pau, my test-wearer, is a nonbinary friend who shares my chest measurements, and is willing to wear the binders for hours/days/weeks and provide careful feedback on effectiveness and comfort.
While waiting for feedback, I can put time into writing up documentation and assembling materials for future projects. 😁
How much chest compression do you want out of a binder?
Hey, @star-anise here. I’m sewing away and hit a question I can’t answer on my own, not being trans or someone who binds regularly. I’d really like transmasc peoples’ feedback here about what you want your chest to look like? and what makes you feel “flat enough”?
Because when I come down to it, making a binder involves a trade-off of how much it compresses vs how much it restricts. I can make this binder flatten me as much as my breast tissue will physically squish, if I don’t want to breathe. Something going around the chest has to accommodate for the fact that your chest is constantly expanding and contracting.
And I’m not actually sure what the ideal is here when people say “flat”. Most men’s chests are broader around their nipples than the rest of their chests, though until I can get a large sample of cis men’s bust vs underbust measurements, I don’t know how by how much.
TW: Body measurements: What kind of effects am I achieving right now?
When I’m wearing little or no breast support, my measurements are
Above Bust: 38″
Bust: 42″
Underbust: 35″
(That’s about a 36DD/95E, ish.)
Right now, with this sports bra vertically boned but not in any way horizontally restricted:
Above Bust: 39″
Bust: 40″
Underbust: 38″
So now I’m looking at adding vertical constriction to the binder--current experiments with ribbon seem to indicate I can get those three measurements to even out at 38″, meaning my entire chest is 3″ larger than my underbust used to be. (Yes, part of that is the binder extending out into open air under my breasts). I can still breathe deeply at that 38″.
So what’s the desired outcome here? Is even measurements for the three areas of chest the ideal? Am I on the right track about not compressing past the point I can comfortably breathe? Where should I be aiming with this?
(Oh! I forgot to mention. This is the “convert a sports bra to a binder using things you can find in a dollar store” project.)
@astraldepths replied to your post “Progress update from @star-anise, July 15 2018: On the one hand, with...”
I'm not planning on building it quite yet, but what fabric is the sports bra made of? Do you think the cheapo 3-for-10 bagged tank sports bras would work for this, or would something more sporty be required?
In this project simpler is better, because bras with more support have a lot more shaping specifically to lift and separate, and we’re working on a whole different mechanism here. The ideal bra to work from has a seam at either side and is otherwise completely flat.
This is the pack I’m using:
“Fruit of the Loom 3-pack full coverage sports tank”. That price is in Canadian dollars, so we’re probably talking about the same thing. It’s 95% cotton, 5% spandex.
Transform a sports bra into a binder: THE TUTORIAL
Is it possible to cheaply transform a simple sports bra into a binder? Would that binder be any easier to wear than what’s on the market right now?
WE DON’T KNOW, BUT WE’RE TRYING TO FIND OUT. If you’re willing to give it a try, here’s how.
How to use this tutorial: This is a rough draft for a tutorial to transform a basic sports bra into a binder. It's part of a conversation between me and you. If there's something that doesn't work for you or that you don't understand, please tell me about it or ask me for a better explanation.
As I hear from readers who try this project on their own, I will get a better sense of what I need to explain and what common problems are. Then I will update this blog or edit the tutorial. Right now these directions are intended for people who have a fair bit of understanding about sewing. Not everything is totally explained, and some of the methods are a little advanced. As this project grows and progresses, I want to refine the sewing methods used and the writing of this project until I can produce a version that works for absolute beginners as well as advanced sewists.
Health concerns: Binding can have negative health consequences for you. Right now, we have absolutely no solid knowledge about how this binder compares to other methods of binding. Binding can cause back pain, shortness of breath, tissue damage, skin rashes, and other problems. Please use caution; do not bind for more than eight hours or while you sleep, and stop wearing this binder if it causes you pain or discomfort. If you have a special health concern that makes binding especially difficult for you, eg. chronic pain or joint instability, please consider waiting to see what results other wearers have.
Participating in the project: When you make a boned binder, fill out the Prototype Registration Survey get your prototype number. This number will follow your binder.
Then, anyone who wears it can take the Boned Binder Health Effects Survey to give information on what wearing that binder has been like. That is how we will get information on what the health effects of these binders are.
Equipment needed:
Sewing machine with ballpoint/"for stretch fabrics" needle
Thread
Straight pins
Marking pen or chalk
Scissors
Measuring tape
Optional: 20-30 safety pins
Materials needed:
1 sports bra (also called "your binder" in this tutorial)
Buy a simple sports bra in your usual size. If possible, buy the bra that matches your ribcage (underbust) measurement exactly or is a little loose. I have been using pull-over Fruit of the Loom sports bras because they're cheap and breathable. These bras already stretch a little to expand to the body they're covering—for example, a "size 36" bra may only have a 24-inch circumference when laid flat, but stretches elastically once the wearer puts it on. This is perfect.
In this project simpler is better, because bras with more support have a lot more shaping specifically to lift and separate, and we’re working on a whole different mechanism here. The ideal bra to work from has a seam at either side and is otherwise completely flat. The bras I have been using are 97% cotton, 3% spandex fabric. Bras with spaghetti straps are easier to hide under clothing; bras with solid straps provide more stability.
1" wide elastic
You want three times the width of your binder laid flat—for example, if my binder laid flat is 12 inches from armpit to armpit, I want 36 inches of elastic. Then cut it into two equal pieces.
8-12 steel or plastic bones
For the purposes of simplicity, right now the formula I'm proposing is: Try bones the height of the centre of your binder, minus 1"/2.5cm. (This is not how you will lay them out, just how to get the height)
This tutorial assumes the use of heavy-duty cable ties, which are roughly as strong as spring steel. If you want to experiment, please see this tutorial for information on different types of boning and how to prepare them.
Bone casing (bone height + 1-2 inches) for all bones
This tutorial has information on making bone casing. In this case, I have sewn twill tape together.
Instructions
Step 1: Elastic
1. Mark elastic placement:
At center front and at side seams, make marks 1/3 and 2/3 of the way up on the side seams, and 2/3 of the way up on the front seams.
2. Place bottom elastic
Line up the center of one piece of elastic with the center of the binder. Place it along the two bottom marks you put in the side seams.
It will continue around to the back of the garment
3. Zigzag stitch all around edge of elastic.
The zigzag stitch allows the elastic to stretch when you put your binder on.
4. Place top elastic.
Pin it to the marks you made, and then pin the elastic into a gradual curve.
5. Zigzag stitch all along top elastic.
Done step 1! Your elastic is finished.
Step 2: Bones
1. Prepare the casing
Cut your casing into pieces long enough for each bone, plus 1-2"/3-5cm, each. Fold the ends over.
So for example, if you had 8 bones 6"/15cm long, you would cut 8 strips of casing 7-8"/18-20cm each. Then the bone should fit inside with a little wiggle room on each end.
2. Experiment with bone placement.
Lay the bones out on your binder front and see what works, what looks good. Once you've got a placement you think works, then use safety pins to keep them in place, or sew them to the binder with a couple loose stitches. Try the binder on. See if it works for you. Will it look flatter if you have more bones? Are the bones obviously too long, creating a shelf effect, and need to be cut?
For example, when creating a binder for a large chest, I tried three bones a side, found it wasn't flat enough, but had a better time with 8:
A little suggestion: Don't place the bottom of your bones directly on the bottom edge of the binder. When I did that, I found there was a gap between the bottom of the binder and my chest, which felt weird and let sweat run down onto my stomach. It was more comfortable to place the bones slightly above it, creating a fold of fabric to catch the sweat.
3. Sew front bones in place.
Stitch along the sides of the boning casing. You might do this by putting your presser foot half on top of the boning casing, and stitching along the side of the casing, or it might mean using a zipper foot.
4. Add boning in the back.
Cut one bone down to the height of the binder in the back, where your elastic ends. Sew it down. This bone helps ease strain on your back; if back pain is a concern for you, more bones might help.
Step 3: Registration
Go to Boned Binder Prototype Registration and fill out information about this binder. A volunteer will email you with your Prototype Number. Please label your binder with this number, with a permanent marker, embroidery, or some other permanent method.
Then, as you or someone else wears this binder, you can use that Prototype Number to take the Health Effects Survey and let us know how it goes.
If you decide to make significant changes to the binder--for example, adding more elastic, or changing the length or number of bones--then you will have to take the Prototype Registration again and get a new Prototype Number, as it is, in effect, a different binder.
Also, if you write up your binder project anywhere, drop the Better Binder Project a link!
@elijahdarling replied to your post “Consider funding me while I work on this project? @star-anise here:...”
Hey, I've been hesitate to bind because of concern with exercising - would I be able to exercise and bind in this possibly?
I’ll know that better in a few weeks. When I was sewing the binders I did my best to make it so that I could breathe deeply without any discomfort or constriction. If I ever made a model that felt like it was pinching or holding my chest too much, I ripped it up and scrapped that design. And the binders are pretty breatheable, since they’re made out of sports bras in a 97% cotton fabric. So I know that in the short-term, it’s pretty promising. However, I’m disabled and really restricted in what I can do, so I’m not able to be a better judge
In the next few days, the prototypes will arrive at my test-wearer’s house, and they’ll try wearing the binders for longer-term. That will include cardio exercise, weightlifting and circuit training.. Because really, the only way we’ll know for sure is whether, when they exercise, they feel any restriction or pain. Pau, my test-wearer, has started a pain log so that we’ll be able to compare no binder vs. this binder vs. commercial binders. Right now Pau’s going to be keeping an eye on the possible negative physical consequences, whether that’s overheating, rashes, pain, or shortness of breath. So they’re taking a bit of a risk--if you have something like a chronic pain or hypermobility condition that makes binding risky for you, I’d recommend waiting and watching the project until more sturdy people report in.
(When it comes to future test-wearers, I’d love to hear from people who do types of exercise like fencing or tennis, that involve lots of moving your arms and twisting your body, without much time to stop and readjust. Which means that when I recruit test-wearers, those athletes will probably be top of my list. I also want to try making the binder as swimwear, since the fabric I’m using so far is very similar to the swimsuit fabric.)
So I’d love to be like “Oh yeah totally, they’ll be great!” but I cannot make any promises yet. We’ll know more as the experiment progresses.
A friend asked me to explain just why boning works on these binders because they just couldn’t get their mind around the physics, and I think I found a way to explain it.
Imagine having a rubber band on your wrist that’s too tight, so it’s cutting into your skin. Then take a pencil, and slide it under the rubber band on the top of your wrist. Take another, and slide it under the rubber band on the other side. The more pencils you add, the more comfortable you are; the rubber band is still exerting the same amount of pressure, but that force is dispersed up and down the length of the pencils instead of all that pressure being focused on the same tiny piece of skin.
That’s the same thing with boning.
This is literally a before and after--I took the binder on the left, sewed boning on it, and then put a piece of elastic at the top to chill out the shelf effect from the bones being too long. But it’s basically the same as putting pencils under a rubber band.
The appeal of using small elastic and boning, as opposed to just using really thick elastics that compress the whole thing, is that you’re using a much smaller amount of force, but being really clever and intentional about where that force goes. That way, you can work with using the least possible amount of squeezing around your chest--you can have a binder that expands when you breathe, while also flattening you out.
I think there’s a metaphor at work about how you don’t actually need that much power, if you’re able to find a way to spread the burden out over a broad space--kind of like a lot of people working together to share the load vs one person working heroically. Sometimes cooperation beats out overwhelming strength.
(The boning is also a little bit inspired by how the ribcage itself works. Ribs are joined together by fibers and muscles, so they provide a sturdy protective cage, but the distance between them is elastic, so they can move further apart to allow the chest to expand, or move further together to let you bend and move. Evolution has forced our bodies to be very cautious about how many big, solid, inflexible things they have, and in this project, I’ve tried to be likewise.)
