#bust darts

[anielskaaniela]

Sewing Darts: Bust and Waist Darts Tutorial for a Perfect Fit

In this post, you will learn how to sew darts for perfect fit. Darts are one of the most essential and versatile sewing techniques that you need to master if you want to make your own clothes or alter existing ones. Darts are folds or tucks in the fabric that create shape and fit in garments, especially in the bodice area. They can also add some style and detail to your garments, such as…

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[aibidil]

Adventures in bust darts pt. 1

This is not a knitting blog, however, it IS a special interest blog and we believe in posting all special interests because we live loud.

So I knitted a few sweaters for boobless people before I knit one for myself. So when I started knitting things for myself, I thought, no biggie, I like wearing sweaters with a roomy fit, it will work great to pick a pattern size according to my full bust measurement, with the knowledge that it will be a roomy sweater.

But the armholes. The armholes, people!!!!

I have fairly broad shoulders and a G-cup (UK)/ I-cup (US). I do not, however have big upper arms. Most times the shoulders work themselves out, but the armholes decidedly do NOT.

Below is the Mooncrush Tank by Jacqueline Cieslak. The pattern says to choose a size with 4-6” of positive ease. This is the correct size to give 5” positive ease. Notice two things: the armholes are WAY too big. Like, it’d be okay if they were a little low, but they’re also gaping open in the front and showing a huge amount of front bra. But also notice how much higher the hem is in the front versus the back, because boob real estate. (This pattern is knit in front/back panels, so I’m in the process of fixing it by taking in the side seams. Will report back.)

Below is the Carlisle (Raglan) by Maddy Moe. It’s unfinished on both sleeves. The pattern says to choose a size with 3-6” positive ease. This is the correct size to give 0” ease (because I know from clothes sizing in general that this is more likely to work). This is a better fit, but notice how much extra fabric is bunching at the armpit! I love a comfy sweater as much as the next person, but even going down to 0” ease, there’s still WAY too much fabric here. The difference is between properly oversized and just poorly fitting.

Below is the Ursina by Jacqueline Cieslak. Ignore that it does not go with the t-shirt I’ve got it over. The pattern says to choose a size with 2-6” positive ease. This is the size for about 1” negative ease, but crucial difference: this pattern is written with instructions for adding short-row bust darts, which I added according to the pattern (size D darts, which adds 28 extra rows, about 4” extra!, starting at the fullest point of the chest). You can see the short-row dart stitches if you look closely, diagonal on the underboob. I also added five decrease rounds after the bust for a total of a 20 stitch (almost 4”!) decrease. This is by far the best attempt so far, but there is still too much room in the arms and slightly too much in the armpit. And notice how far off my size choice was from the pattern guide in order to get it fitting this well.

Okay, so.

Bust dart lesson #1:

If you’ve got big boobs, you cannot, cannot choose your size based on your full bust measurement. Even though this is how everyone will tell you to choose your size. When I chose the size as directed in the Mooncrush tank, I needed to remove 8” at the side seams to get it even close to fitting. 8”!

I’m unsure yet whether it will be better to choose pattern size based on bicep circumference or on high bust measurement (with the understanding that I will need to add significant boob real estate to that size). Both of these are good possibilities; I think it will be trial and error to figure out which one works better in practice. I suppose it’s also a possibility to use underbust measurement or waist measurement?

High bust measurement is taken under the armpits, but over the boobs. The measuring tape will not be level with the floor. You’d then choose the size with the bust measurement according to your high bust rather than your full bust measurement.

For me, my full bust measurement is 4.5” larger than my high bust measurement. If I was choosing according to pattern ease guidance using my high bust measurement, I should’ve chosen one size smaller for the Mooncrush tank (I don’t think this would’ve been enough to fix the problem 🤔), one size smaller in the Carlisle, and the size I chose in the Ursina (which is one size smaller than if I used the full bust measurement). Because of the big boobs, I may need to ignore their ease suggestions and choose a 0” ease for a sweater they intend oversized and a negative ease for a sweater they intend to be form fitting.

If I used bicep measurement to choose a pattern size, figuring 0” of ease in the bicep, I should’ve chosen the size I did in the Ursina and two sizes smaller in the Carlisle. This may be more promising??? Negative ease in the bicep is fairly common; I may need to use that.

Next up: what I’ve learned about bust darts and experimenting with them to figure out what works best. I’m knitting up a fairly plain sweater in a size chosen according to 0” of ease using high bust measurement, and the plan is to do different types and combos of darts, ripping out in between, and see which is best in the end!

Adventures in bust darts, pt. 2

[anielskaaniela]

How to Add Bust Darts to a Sewing Pattern

In this post, you will learn how to add bust darts to a sewing pattern like a pro. Do you want to learn how to add bust darts to any sewing bodice pattern? Bust darts are essential for creating a flattering and well-fitted garment, especially if you have a larger or smaller bust than the standard pattern size. Bust darts can also add shape and style to your sewing projects, whether you are…

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[comicsbeat]

Inhumans: What is going on with Medusa's bra?

Inhumans: What is going on with Medusa’s bra?

  I’ve become a bit perversely fascinated by Marvel’s Inhumans. When something this epically bad happens, it emits a hypnotic allure. And the blame game is beginning to start. According to Variety, people at ABC already had voiced “concerns”: ABC sources tell Variety that concerns over quality of “Inhumans” episodes — both the special effects of early cuts and the underpinning scripts — were a…

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[allbrandsales]

New Post has been published on All Brands Sales - Classifieds of Vintage fashion items for shopaholics

New Post has been published on http://www.allbrandsales.com/1980s-black-on-black-floral-brocade-sort-night-robe.html

1980s Black on Black Floral Brocade Sort Night Robe

Worth: $55

Product Description:

Welcome to my store! 1980s Black on black floral patterned night robe. Labels: Tempted, Made in USA, 55% Polyester, 42% Cotton, three% Spandex, Chilly Water Wash, Line Dry, 13 (please see measurements). Determine flattering. This gown has a nylon zipper within the again and one inch broad straps. Bust darts and princess seaming back and front. Attractive thigh excessive slits on both sides of the gown. This garment does have just a little stretch to it.

Bust – 36 inches, Waist – 32 inches, Hips – 37 inches, Size – 48 inches from entrance middle chest to hemline.

Wonderful situation. I discover no flaws or points with this gown. Clear and able to put on.

Thanks for wanting and if in case you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to e mail me. I’m all the time comfortable to reply any questions.

Retailer: The Pink Poodle Classic Clothes & Equipment

[allbrandsales]

New Post has been published on All Brands Sales - Classifieds of Vintage fashion items for shopaholics

New Post has been published on http://www.allbrandsales.com/1950s-inexperienced-gold-brocade-wiggle-gown-bigger-measurement.html

1950s Inexperienced & Gold Brocade Wiggle Gown - Bigger Measurement

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Worth: $60

Product Description:

Welcome to my store! 1950s Inexperienced and gold brocade sort gown. Bigger measurement. No label. Boast type neckline. Metallic zipper within the again with hook and thread closure. Brief sleeves. The skirt of the gown is completely lined in gold acetate. The bodice just isn’t lined. Kick pleat within the again skirt. Bust darts. Pleated back and front waist.

Bust – 40 inches, Waist – 28 inches, Hips – 41 inches, Size – 41 half inches from prime shoulder to hemline.

Wonderful situation. Seems to be prefer it was by no means worn. No flaws or points. Clear and able to put on.

Thanks for wanting and when you’ve got any questions, please don’t hesitate to e mail me. I’m all the time joyful to reply any questions.

Retailer: The Pink Poodle Classic Clothes & Equipment

[allbrandsales]

New Post has been published on All Brands Sales - Classifieds of Vintage fashion items for shopaholics

New Post has been published on http://www.allbrandsales.com/1960s-pink-knit-sort-gown-toni-todd.html

1960s Pink Knit Sort Gown - Toni Todd

Worth: $38

Product Description:

Welcome to my store! 1960s Pink knit sort gown. Label: Toni Todd, the label is frayed. Brief sleeves and nylon zipper within the again with hook and thread closure. Vast cummerbund type waistline with two gold button detailing – buttons have some discoloration. Rounded neckline with pink prime stitching. Bust darts. This garment does have stretch to it.

Bust – 38 inches, Waist – 30 inches, Hips – flared skirt out to 38 inches, Size – 40 inches from prime shoulder to hemline.

Wonderful situation apart from the discoloration on the buttons. No different flaws or points. Clear and able to put on.

Thanks for wanting and when you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to e mail me. I’m all the time completely happy to reply any questions.

Retailer: The Pink Poodle Classic Clothes & Equipment

[allbrandsales]

New Post has been published on All Brands Sales - Classifieds of Vintage fashion items for shopaholics

New Post has been published on http://www.allbrandsales.com/1950s-classic-pink-and-white-checked-gown-rockabilly.html

1950s Classic Pink and White Checked Gown - Rockabilly

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Worth: $52

Product Description:

Welcome to my store! Fairly 1950s classic pink and white checked rockabilly / picnic gown. No label. Probably a cotton mix and is sleeveless. This gown could possibly be a house sewn merchandise. There’s a metallic zipper within the again with hook and thread closure. String belt loops however no belt. Full skirt pleated on the waistline and bust darts. The gown is proven with a crinoline beneath which isn’t included.

I discover no flaws or points with this gown. It’s clear and able to put on.

Bust – 38 inches, Waist – 29 inches, Hips – very full skirt, Size – 40 inches from prime shoulder to hemline.

Thanks for wanting and when you’ve got any questions, please don’t hesitate to e-mail me. I’m all the time pleased to reply any questions.

Retailer: The Pink Poodle Classic Clothes & Equipment