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This video has some excellent advice. I keep finding myself nodding along with the video point for point. Not one tip made me go "but not that one"
As I'm working on my Howl cosplay, I thought I'd share my favorite ten-second trick for determining if you've got the right contrast in your fabrics!
Take a photo and put it in grayscale. That's it!
When you want a design to read as recognizable, clear, and sharp from across the room, you want to be able to see the difference clearly in grayscale. Since I want the harlequin design to be clear on my Howl jacket, this will be perfect.
And you can use it the other way, too! For example, the reverse side of my pink fabric is a beautiful shiny light pink. In grayscale, it's the same value as the blue, even the same shine, and the only difference is the little bit of texture that comes through in the jacquard.
It would be a bad choice for a sharp, clearly visible design. But if I wanted subtle visual interest that didn't dominate the outfit, and didn't want the design to stand out, these fabrics would be a great complement!
Making a tiny bear plush 🧸
From sketch to plushie ✂️
Soft fabrics, tiny parts, and lots of hand sewing.
https://recuna.etsy.com/listing/4493276546
Go Fabric Shopping with me: Peppermint Pocket Skirt
This is a new series (because I love a series) where I choose a pattern (or a reader could DM me a suggestion for a pattern) and I go virtual fabric shopping and discuss how and why I make the choices I make. Last time I chose a pattern I was planning on making and was able to eventually share the finished project. Today's pattern is another pattern I have some experience with, I made it a while back and I can tell you where it went wrong for me (look I didn't say I always get it right, now did I).
Today we are doing the Peppermint pocket skirt - which is a pay what you can release from Peppermint magazine and Paper Theory Patterns. This pattern has several reviews on threadloop and is generally considered great for beginners. There are 49 shared projects for this pattern and it looks like many makers chose midweight linen, linen rayon blends, and cottons. Versions made with quilting cotton are a bit stiffer, while washed cottons, linens, and rayon blends have more of a flowy drape.
When looking at the product images the pattern maker seems to have intended the skirt to be made with more drapey fabrics. Unfortunately the store page does not include the fabric requirements - however the threadloop page for the pattern does include the needed fabric amounts.
The absolute first place I go for linen is http://fabrics-store.com/ . Or rather I go to my email inbox to see their most recent sale. The IL019 is the medium weight linen and it is fantastic for loose trousers and dresses. The below green is currently 20% off and I am a hobbit colored human. It is also 58 inches wide which is close enough to 60" that we only need 1.5 yards to make the skirt. While I'm at fabrics-store I also always check the "doggie bag" section which is their bolt ends.
My next stop would be fabric mart - this is another "never pay full price and there's always a sale on something" store.
This rayon linen blend is softly slubby and would have more drape than a pure linen and would wrinkle a lot less. 100% rayon is more fragile and I wouldn't recommend doing a skirt with big pockets out of 100% rayon.
On threadloop I saw some very pretty versions with cotton gauze. While you would need to be very careful choosing a gauze that is not too fragile or see through I thought this one from cali fabrics was very cool.
You could do this project in a quilting cotton (spoiler, I did) but it will be quite structured and the pocket may make the lines of the skirt quite square. A washed cotton, or something yarn dyed would be much more forgiving for a skirt like this.
I made this skirt years back in a quilting cotton, it was a charcoal black cotton with small scattered white arrows. It was quite structured and I ended up passing the skirt on because I just never wore it. The reasons I didn't wear it largely added up to the fact I wear very little black, I'm bad at styling skirts, and the cotton made it stand out and be very rectangular on my frame. If I were to tackle this project again I would do the following things to make it work better for me.
Hem it to hit JUST below the knee (I had it above knee).
Make it in a solid or large print that isn't black.
Make it in a fabric with more drape.
Work on styling so it doesn't remind me of fundies (As a former homeschooled kid, I have denim skirt trauma. This is a me issue).
Perfect to keep on your floor or countertops for quick and easy spill clean up. Never waste your paper towels on a mess again. Make your ow
How to Make Faux Ermine Tails + Fur v.2
Just wanted to redo it this time.
I just stole it from Sewing With Sir Mari and others.
This is useful for historical reenactments, cultural events, or for cosplay purposes. You can finally have the realistic ermine fur you want sans the guilt of killing animals or money wasted.
Materials
-White fur for the base/top part of the tail (alternatively you may use cream/ivory fur for a more tanned look)
-Black fur for the tip of the tail
-Needle
-Thread
-Pencil/Tailor's chalk (for markings)
-Scissors/Thread cutter
-Pins (for security)
Optional:
-Another piece of white fur for the base fur, ideally short pile faux fur or rabbit fur
(FYI, here's a pic of actual ermine fur from a historical royal robe as your reference)
1. Draw your pattern for your ermine tails. Keep in mind that the black tip should be 1/4 or 1/3 of your tail. In this case, I made the tip 1/3.
Tails must be around 3-6 inches long.
2. Cut out your individual pattern parts, then trace them over the naps of your fur pieces using tailor's chalk or a pencil. I used color pencils for this one.
3. Cut out your pieces of fur using your markings as a guide.
4. Create a tapering shape for your black tip, by cutting out the bottom two edges diagonally.
This is what our separate tail pieces look like in the front...
...and then the back.
Since the mobile version of tumblr won't allow more than 10 pics, I'll do several more parts soon.
Go Fabric Shopping with me: Style Arc Hayden Tee
This is a new series (because I love a series) where I choose a pattern (or a reader could DM me a suggestion for a pattern) and I go virtual fabric shopping and discuss how and why I make the choices I make.
Our first pattern is the Style Arc Hayden Tee and the information we need to choose fabric should all be on the purchase page for the pattern. I strongly recommend avoiding purchasing ANY pattern that does not give the buyer information of fabrics needed and the pattern sizing on the purchase page.
The first place we are going to look at are the pattern images. Scroll through everything they provide. This is a knit tshirt with an oversized boxy fit. Because of the oversized fit we know that we can use a more stable knit, because while stretch is important for comfort, getting on over you head, and the drape - we don't need a lot. It would be interesting to see how knits with differing drape behave with this pattern but I would avoid stiff heavy knits like sweatshirt fleece or scuba. Those would make the sleeves stick out and put the T into t-shirt. Super drapey knits could also make it just look like you stole the shirt from your older brother. The fabric suggestions confirm what I have deduced from the line drawing (I did cheat by doing an easy one this time)
The next place I look are the size chart and the fabric requirements. The size chart is used to determine what size you will make - I will probably make a 12 or 14 in this top. So I know I need a little over a yard, which is typical for an oversized tee in my size.
You can also check and see if anyone has posted finished projects on threadloop, instagram, or sewing pattern review. That is a very good thing to do before purchasing a pattern regardless as reviews can also flag potential problems with the pattern. Its always interesting to see what kinds of fabrics other folks have used. This is a relatively new release from Style Arc and it hasn't yet been reviewed.
I think this pattern would look best in a solid, although a wide stripe would be really fun. Color and print are always subjective, but ultimately I'm a plain tshirt kinda guy.
My primary source for solid colored cotton jersey is purple seamstress. This shop sends out color cards for their cotton lycra if you request it and the prices are VERY reasonable. I've been quite pleased with the quality of the cotton lycra. They carry prints and stripes as well as other kinds of fabrics, but I tend to stick to the jersey. Note that the description mentions the weight, stretch type (4 way means it will stretch horizontally and vertically), and width. It doesn't indicate opacity, but these knits are nice and opaque.
If you wanted to stick to 100% natural fibers this is a great pattern to do that, since it doesn't need negative ease to fit your body. LA Finch carries a few colors of cotton jersey. It is a bit more expensive, but Made in the USA and LA Finch has a good reputation. The description gives us more information on the stretch percentage and opacity on this one.
If I did want a print Cali Fabrics always has the most delicious Art Gallery Cotton Lycra Jersey that is SO nice. They also have an array of rayon and modal knits - which would technically work, but I think the liquid drape of a rayon knit would make this pattern loose some of its definition and structure. It also tends to stretch and droop from gravity.
Finally we shall see what Fabric Mart has in stock - Fabric mart is all deadstock (fabric leftovers from the garment industry, resold instead of discarded). The stock is constantly changing and they run daily sales. The first rule of fabric mart is to NEVER BUY UNLESS ITS ON SALE. Almost everything will be at least 60% off at some point in a given month. They have a wide variety of knits at any given time. There will be a lot of polyester ITY knit or double brushed poly. You may note I do not mention these as good options for a tshirt. These fabrics are the garment equivalent to trapping yourself in a closet with no air conditioning in August. In Georgia. I do not purchase or wear most synthetic fabrics outside of activewear and swimwear and I think they are also miserable to sew with. Call me a snob. I will agree with you.
I do want to bring attention to the level of detail in the fabric mart item descriptions. For this cotton lycra rib knit we see a ton of information. One thing I recommend taking with a grain of salt is the opacity - I think fabric mart marks everything with visible light passing through when you hold it up to the sun as translucent.
I do plan on making this pattern at some point this year and the image below is the fabric I plan on using. I purchased it from fabricmart and I have more than enough to complete the project. It is a light slubby cotton knit, more textured than a jersey, but not heavier. I think the moderate drape, texture and slight sheerness will bring visual interest to the simple lines of the top and I love the rich color.
I hope this post was insightful, and I encourage folks to send me patterns to shop for future installments.
Idea for some educational posts
It seems like a lot of new sewists have a hard time matching their pattern to a fabric, especially when buying online.
If I were to do a series where I picked, or collected suggestions for patterns and then virtually shopped for the fabric and showed how I make decisions about it, would that be interesting?
Would you read?
yes
no
I like buttons
