Day 7 and 8 - Mũi Né to Hội An
The next leg of our journey was the longest - 16 hours in total. We left Mũi Né on the 1pm bus to Nha Trang, where we boarded the 7pm night bus to Hội An and arrived at 5:30am the following morning, achy and groggy. As we stepped off the bus we were pounced on by taxi drivers, all pointing at maps asking where we were going. We couldn’t see any cars about so eventually we haggled with a motorbike taxi guy who agreed to take both of us and our bags on separate bikes to the hotel for 100,000 VND (£3). He called his mate over, Curran and I got on the back of the bikes, and off we went. Despite assuring us he knew where he was going, it felt like we were going around in circles, and about 5 minutes later he pulled over and asked Curran for the hotel number. A short phone call later and we were back on our way, enjoying the views of the farmland and the breezy air.
Amazingly even at 6am our room was ready when we got to the hotel - Hoi An Village Villas. This was the best room yet with an exquisite patio overlooking the lake. It was green as far as the eye could see - tall coconut trees swaying in the wind and well tended to plants neatly arranged around the patio. A couple of hours later we were refreshed and ready to explore, so we got a taxi (car this time!) to the ancient town for 8:30am. Hội An really is a beautiful town, the windy streets are sheltered with overhanging trees, and neat shops and restaurants line the sides. We were in need of some breakfast and keen to try some of Hội An’s local dishes, we found a street food vendor selling Cao lầu. At first they were going to sit us with their family and a very overexcited daughter, then they changed their minds and sat us nearby. Cao lầu contains a special type of noodles, only produced with a specific type of water from an ancient Cham well just outside the town, and it is only sold by a few families. It comes served with a broth, various herbs, salad, pork meat and pork crackling. The texture of the noodles against the bean sprouts and the crackling made for a very tasty dish.
We spent the next few hours walking all over town - along the river, in the shops and through the markets. Everywhere we went we were targeted by the vendors - ‘Excuse me! Buy something’, ‘Hello! What are you looking for?, ‘Sir, you want boat ride?’ Managing to stay nice but firm, we didn’t buy anything but didn’t make any enemies either. For lunch we had to check out a place we had seen on No Reservations with Anthony Bourdain - a small shop selling what claimed to be the best Bánh mì in Vietnam! Curran had decided these were the ultimate sandwich and we were intrigued to see if Anthony Bourdain was right, having sampled quite a variety so far in this trip. Actually, they came in second best, after the ones sold at the street food market in Saigon - sorry Anthony! We hopped on the 1:45pm shuttle back to our hotel where we chilled out for the afternoon.
That evening we planned to go back to old town to see to the night market. Hội An transforms at night - every street is scattered with lanterns and tasteful lights, and the river is highlighted with floating candles. We ate dinner in a Vietnamese fusion restaurant called Nu Eatery, which served small but well thought out dishes. Our favourite was the chilli lime shrimp - which was served on three prawn crackers with pickled veg and what looked like a tumeric mayo. After dinner we attempted to stroll along the river but the bridge in particular was inundated with Chinese tourists. Dodging numerous selfie sticks we found some less crowded areas, and wandered around these for a while enjoying the cooler air. I tried a local dessert called mango cake, which looked a bit like Turkish delight. However it was very misleadingly not filled with mango at all, but peanuts! Wanting to tell the ladies they had got their translations very wrong, but knowing it would be a lost cause, we decided to head back to the hotel for a well needed sleep in a much comfier bed than the previous night.