#care sheet

[crispy-buddies-bakery]

Strawberry Care Sheet

[thenarrativefoil]

holy daphnia care sheet

[omg-snakes]

Saharan sand boa care sheet? (:

I'll be super honest, I don't know enough about sand boas to be able to recommend a good care sheet. I'm sorry.

They're neat little snakes but I'm a colubrid person.

Maybe somebody could recommend a few in the comments that are especially good?

[vet-and-wild]

Sugar Glider Care Sheet

Here is the care sheet I made for sugar gliders. It has info about the diet that I do for Pip along with sources for further reading. This is NOT a replacement for veterinary care! Also keep in mind that husbandry changes quickly and this information will likely change over the next few years.

Natural History

Sugar gliders (Petaurus breviceps) are small marsupials native to Australia, New Guinea, Tasmania, and a few islands and regions around Indonesia. They are complex and unique animals, with very specific dietary requirements. We don’t fully understand the diet of wild sugar gliders, but we know that they are omnivorous and consume a variety of foods including gums, saps, nectar, pollen, animal proteins, seeds, eggs, fungi, and native fruits. The “sugar” in sugar glider is named as such due to their consumption of sugary foods such as sap and nectar. They are considered “Least Concern” by the IUCN. Sugar gliders possess the ability to glide short distances, thanks to a gliding membrane extending from their forearms to their hind legs. While their appearance is similar to the North American flying squirrel, these species are not related. 

Characteristics and Behavior

Cute and charismatic, sugar gliders are popular in the pet trade. However, they have very complicated care needs and are not usually a “cuddly” pet. Sugar gliders require a large amount of space and enrichment to be happy. They are social to the point that singular gliders may mutilate themselves from stress. Wild gliders live in groups of about 5-12 individuals. While some sugar gliders will tame down and enjoy human companionship it takes patience and effort. They often enjoy curling up in your pocket or other dark spaces. 

Wild sugar gliders have a very complex diet, which can be difficult to replicate in captivity. They are also arboreal, and need plenty of space to climb, with plenty of options for enrichment. Gliders kept alone need daily interaction from their human companions, ideally at night when they are active. Given their complicated care needs, sugar gliders should not be considered beginner pets. 

Lifespan

8-13 years.

Adult Size

80-160g with males larger than females.

Housing

Sugar gliders need space, particularly vertical space as they are naturally arboreal (tree dwelling). At a minimum, 1-2 gliders can be kept in a 36’’x24’’40’’ (LxWxH) enclosure, but larger is better. If more than 2 gliders are kept, a larger enclosure is a must to give each animal their own space. Space between bars should be no more than ¼ inch to prevent escape. Secure areas such as sleeping pouches and nest boxes should be provided, with at least 1 per glider. Additionally, branches, bird toys, solid wheels, shelves, swings, and other toys should be provided for enrichment and security. Nest boxes should be placed near the top of the cage, as this is where gliders are most comfortable. Sugar gliders also enjoy chewing on wood, so natural branches can be provided as long as they are baked to destroy any pathogens. Paper towels, hay, or aspen can be used at the bottom of the cage for substrate but avoid cedar or pine as these can irritate a glider’s respiratory system. Cages should be set up in an area that is draft-free and won’t disturb their daytime rest. Covering cages during the day can help minimize disturbances.

Feeding

Wild sugar glider diets are diverse and complex, even varying seasonally. We don’t fully understand their diets in the wild, which makes them difficult to feed properly in captivity. Dietary variety is extremely important for preventing malnutrition in this species. The subject of what to feed a sugar glider is controversial, but generally includes a combination of commercial pellets, insects, other proteins, fresh fruits and veggies, and homemade glider food. Food dishes should be placed up high in the enclosure. Gliders in summer tend to consume more insects, while gliders in winter tend to consume more gums, saps, and nectars when insects are more scarce. 

One popular diet is the High-Protein Wombaroo (HPW) diet which is available premade or can be made at home:

Ingredients:

2 Cups Warm Water

1.5 Cups Honey

3 Scrambled Eggs

1/4 Cup High Protein Wombaroo Powder (Increase to 1/2 cup for pregnant/lactating females.)--this product can be found online

1 Tablespoon Bee Pollen

Recipe:

Cook eggs and set aside (stovetop or microwave is acceptable)

In a large bowl, mix water and honey. Stir honey until dissolved. Add in the HPW powder and mix well

Combine ingredients; add egg, bee pollen, and slowly add HPW liquid, blending thoroughly

Pour into a freezer safe bowl with an airtight lid. It should freeze to ice cream consistency.

Nightly Feeding(per glider):

1.5 Teaspoon of Original HPW

1 Tablespoon of mixed Fruit

1 Tablespoon of mixed Vegetables

Acceptable produce for a glider includes melon, jicama, papaya, strawberries, bell peppers, squash, carrots, sweet potatoes, figs, cabbage, cucumbers, artichokes, beats, turnips and turnip greens, endive, okra, parsley, radish, bananas, celery, green beans, bok choy, oranges, snap peas, mangoes, blueberries, peaches, and kiwi. Avoid grapes, onions, garlic, pits, and seeds. 

For enrichment and variety, other foods should be supplemented occasionally including commercial glider food (i.e. Mazuri, Exotic Nutrition), earthworms, nectar, pollen, acacia gum, crickets, roaches, mealworms, and other insects. Avoid wax worms as these are very fatty. All insects should be gutloaded (fed a nutritious meal prior to feeding to your pet) and dusted with a calcium carbonate powder (no phosphorus) and a multivitamin powder with vitamin A. These are available in the reptile section of your local pet store, or online as glider specific supplements. Be careful not to overfeed fruits and other sugary foods! Gliders are prone to obesity and dental disease and will actively choose sugary foods over healthier foods. Small amounts (no more than 5% of your glider’s diet) of treats including flavored yogurt, no sugar-added dried fruit, and applesauce can be offered occasionally. Dog food, cat food, seeds, nuts, and cheese are not recommended for gliders. 

Other popular diets include 50% of a homemade diet and 50% of a commercial insectivore diet, or 75% commercial insectivore diet and 25% fruits and veggies with a calcium and vitamin supplement. There are many other home prepared diet options such as Leadbeater’s, Bourbon’s Modified Leadbeater’s, Australian captive diet, and others, but none have been studied to evaluate suitability in sugar gliders. This author chooses to feed HPW with fruits and vegetables daily, and supplemental glider kibble, insects and other animal protein sources, nectar, gum, and pollen. 

It is important to maintain a Ca:P ratio of 2:1 in sugar gliders. Calcium and phosphorus work as opposites in the body, which is why supplements or foods high in phosphorus should be avoided. Sugar gliders are very prone to metabolic bone disease from improper calcium absorption, which can lead to decreased bone density, seizures, and fractures. While most fruits and veggies are ok in moderation, an effort should be made to not overdo produce that has a lower Ca:P ratio (i.e. higher phosphorus). This includes, banana, squash, peaches, carrots, pumpkin, sweet potato, cantaloupe, and blueberries. Conversely, raspberries, blackberries, papaya, turnip greens, parsley, and endive all have higher Ca:P ratios that are more ideal for regular consumption. 

Water

Fresh water should always be available. Filtered water or bottled water is recommended. 

Sexing

Both male and female sugar gliders have a cloaca, which is a common opening for the reproductive, urinary, and gastrointestinal tracts. Male sugar gliders have a very apparent scrotum (often called a “pom”), along with a scent gland on top of their head that looks like a bald spot. Like other marsupials, females have a pouch for carrying young. 

Handling

Sugar gliders are best handled at night when they are naturally awake and active. They should be handled gently and consistently from a young age to acclimate them to people. Sugar gliders may climb on your head or into pockets/sleeves. They can bite when threatened, but tend to vocalize first. Desensitization to handling should be done gradually, and a glider should not be forced into interaction. If a glider needs to be handled in an emergency, garden gloves may be necessary to protect your hands from bites. Bonding sacks can help your glider become accustomed to your scent. 

Grooming

Sugar gliders will need their nails trimmed 1-2x per month. Bathing sugar gliders is not recommended.

Enrichment

Bored sugar gliders may pull out their hair or even mutilate themselves, so providing mental and physical stimulation is imperative. Keeping sugar gliders in pairs or groups allows important social interaction. Gliders that are kept alone need 1-2 hours of human interaction per day. Gliders should also be provided with pouches, climbing opportunities, toys (bird toys are great options), hides, and a varied diet. Rather than feeding food in a bowl, set up foraging opportunities. Holes can be drilled in branches and filled with acacia gum or nectar. Live insects can be hidden in containers full of shredded paper or aspen. Hide fruits and veggies on top of platforms or hides. A wheel is also excellent stimulation for a glider, but ensure that it is solid on the running surface. Be sure to rotate toys for your sugar glider so they don’t get bored. 

Zoonosis

There are no known cases of sugar gliders transmitting diseases to humans, but it is always a good idea to wash your hands after handling animals. 

Health

Sugar gliders are prone to a variety of diseases including cancer, malnutrition, nutritional-secondary hyperparathyroidism (metabolic bone disease), dental disease, and stress related mutilation/hair loss. Sugar gliders should be examined by your veterinarian every 6-12 months. A thorough diet and husbandry review is essential for ensuring your sugar glider’s health. 

Sources and further reading: 

https://lafeber.com/vet/basic-information-for-sugar-gliders/

https://lafeber.com/vet/wp-content/uploads/Care_of_the_pet_sugar_glider.pdf 

https://www.vin.com/members/cms/project/defaultadv1.aspx?id=6892370&pid=12071&

http://www.exoticpetvet.com/sugar-gliders-and-marsupials.html 

http://nessexotic.com/docs/Calcium.pdf

https://azeah.com/sugar-gliders/sugar-glider-behavior-and-enrichment

https://azeah.com/sugar-gliders/sugar-glider-nutrition 

https://www.exoticvetclinic.com/mammal-care-sheets 

http://www.sugarglider.com/

http://www.glidercentral.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php 

[physhthelizard]

The Absolute Basics of Your Leo Set Up

This is the absolute basics. I will be going further into further leo care, but for now we’ll just talk about the actual home.

    So we’re going to start off with the size of your tank. A 20 gallon is usually recommended, I personally prefer a 40 gallon as a basic for adults. This gives you plenty of room to add climbing areas, lots of hides, and lots of decorations and things for your lizard to mess with. This usually means a 36”x18” tank of varying heights, but usually 18 or 24 inches. 

    Next you need to decide what style of tank you want. You can choose a top open tank, which is easiest to find and usually cheaper. I personally don’t like top open tanks. I think it makes your lizard feel vulnerable when you reach down into their tank (like a bird swooping down to grab them.) They’re also harder to lock if you have curious kids running around your house or really crafty cats. You can get lid clips, but this doesn’t necessarily deter any children. I also noticed that my lizard was “stargazing” and thought he had enigma syndrome, but this stopped when I switched to a front open tank, and he was simply doing it because he knew that’s where food came from. Which leads to the fact that I think it’s harder to feed. You can’t get the right angles. Your lizard also feels vulnerable while feeding them. If you drop the bug and it’s especially fast, they’re harder to catch. 

    Front open tanks, on the other hand, usually have built in locks with keys! Easy to hide from kids, and cats don’t have thumbs or know how to work keys (hopefully…) I do find it harder to set up the tank the way I want it, as any two sided decorations cannot be used on the front two panels. They’re easier to clean, and you don’t have to keep reaching in, and easier to feed, because you aren’t playing bug claw machine. 

    Next we’ll get into ventilation, humidity and heat. I’ll  have a bigger breakdown on how to heat your tank but it should be 85F minimum and 90F maximum. Your hottest spot on the tank could reach 100F, but that’s okay because the rest of your tank should be at different temperatures. You will need feet on your tank if you’re going with an under tank heater (or UTH) to not overheat the mat, the glass, or the furniture your tank is on. You’ll also need ventilation on your tank. This is usually screen top and sides. Tops are always screen, some tanks feature side vents too. Never have an open tank! Things can fall in like ceiling crap, dust, cats, and things thrown across the room. Also never have a completely closed enclosure (ie, a storage bin with no holes or screen.) It can cause humidity to build up and give your lizard respiratory issues. 

    And the last thing you’ll need to worry about is a place to put your tank. I personally have a basic fold out lawn table from Walmart because I could not find anything that could hold my tank without being way too oversized. You can also consider old furniture you have, or checking on local online shops or second hand stores to put your tank on. My dubia roaches are on an entertainment stand from the 90’s. If you go the DIY route you can have cupboards and shelves and it’ll be exactly the size you need! Do not put the tank on a surface that gets used a lot like a dresser or a coffee table. This creates lots of unnecessary stress from wiggling, thumping, or setting down objects on the table. Either way, measure (or get measurements from the seller) of the stand so it’s not too small. 

    And that’s it for now! That was really long, but I think I’ve covered literally all of the tiny basics. Again, I will go further into things like heat, substrate, lighting, etc. This is just the absolute basics of things. I went into things as detailed as possible, but if you think I’m missing something, go ahead and add it in a reblog or a reply! 

    Happy herping! Physh the Leo and his human Theo

[kamorth]

Hi Animal Tumblr

Specifically Fish Tumblr

Specifically specifically Tetra Tumblr

I want to watch the pretty fishes. I’ve been playing with walmart/dollar store aquarium stuff and sea monkeys for a while (I started before the fire and we’re settled enough now for me to have my monkeys and moss balls going again) as a kind of practice test to see if I could take care of a proper aquarium with real fish.

It has been decided that I can and I’m allowed to start putting my Proper Aquarium™ together. I’ve chosen Tetras as the species I want to at least start with since they’re apparently a good beginner fish and get along well with other species in community tanks.

The problem I am having is pretty simple. Before I even think about going shopping for fish I want to do my research to make sure I have the right supplies and I’m not getting bad brands of things and all that stuff, but when I try to find care sheets I get inundated with Aquarium Brand Names trying to convince me to buy their products and only theirs and not a lot of actual information that would be useful outside of being a rabid ride or die fan of Tetra Supplies ACME Brand Incorporated.

My question is this:

Do you have any links for forums or care sheets that you personally as a tetra keeper with a bit of experience would recommend to a complete beginner?

I appreciate any advice or signal boosts!

[helminthvirus]

How to care for Ecalibur Umbra:

...

You don't, he's a person

He can take care of himself

Maybe learn sign language so he can actually talk to you, damn.

Or get one of those magnet poetry things

He wants you to know you're being a shitty roommate (my words, not his. He was nicer about it)

[nonbeenaries]

Ball Python Caresheet

So you’re thinking of getting a ball python/just got one, and you’re overwhelmed by a ton of conflicting information from different websites? Here’s the quick and dirty guide: Enclosure Size: Adult ball pythons can be kept in enclosures 4x2x2 or larger. Hatchlings can be kept in 16qt sterilite tubs and moved up to larger enclosures as time progresses, or immediately given their adult size enclosure if you give them enough cover. The general guide is long enough for them to stretch out fully, and enough space to utilize their climbing ability. Enclosure Type: Plastic tubs, PVC, and wooden enclosures can all be purchased and used, and guides can be found on how to DIY a PVC or wooden enclosure if you choose to get handsy. Glass tanks are not recommended as it’s hard to retain heat in them and they are much pricier. Humidity: 65-80%. Other caresheets will say 60% is acceptable, but 65-80% is their ideal humidity based on where they live. Humidity should not fall below 60% or be above 80%. You should not need a humid hide if humidity is 65-80%. Temperature: Temperatures should not increase above 95F/35C or fall below 75F/23C anywhere in the tank. 88-92F/31-33C for the hot spot (surface temp under/above heat fixture). 76-80F/24-26C for the cold spot (opposite corner from heat source). Ambient temperature (air temperature) should be 85-80F throughout. Heatsource: No matter the heat source it should be approximately 1/3 of the tank. Under tank heat (UTH) can be made with heat tape, purchased premade or be heatmats. You place this under your enclosure. This is not recommended if your home is under 75F/23C, and does not provide any other benefits other than simple heat. Other, and better options for heating include: Halogen lights (provides UVB + near infrared light), Deep Heat Projectors (DHP; provides near infrared benefits without visible light), Radiant Heat Panels (RHP), and Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHE). You MUST use a thermostat for any of these options. Substrate: Paper towel, reptichip (NOT reptibark), coconut mulch/chips/fiber, or topsoil (make sure no fertilizers or pesticides) are all acceptable. You can also add sphagnum moss to any of these. Hides: A minimum of 2 hides should be given, 1 hot side 1 cold side. Can be made of any waterproof material, including takeout boxes.They should be small enough that the snake is snug when coiled in it. Water: Water bowl should be large enough for the ball python to fit their entire body in. Use reptisafe on water, change water as necessary. Feeding: frozen/thawed (f/t) prey is best, as live r@ts/m!ce can harm your python. Feed 10-15% of weight every 7 days until 600-750g/1 year old, then 7-8% of weight every 2 weeks for year 2. 3 years and beyond, feed 5% of body weight every 14-21 days. Do not handle your snake 2 days before and 2 days after a meal. Body condition:

Supplies list: enclosure, thermometer and hygrometer (acurite is good), thermostat, heating element(s), water bowl, reptisafe, 2+ hides, clorhexidine or f10 disinfectant, substrate, feeding tong/hemostat, kitchen scale (weighing), decor (climbing areas, cover), food/food source Resources: r/ballpython, reptifiles, not just a pet rock (fb group), advancing herpetological husbandry (fb group)