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Clandestine Castlestuke, Isle of Doagh

It must be one of the most unlikely places where the site of a castle could possibly be suspected. Nevertheless, Castlestuke is perched on top of a wonderfully weathered rock outcrop, sitting right beside a larger one, intriguingly called Dunmore (Big Fort).

Nothing can be found on the latter, except for splendid views all across Trawbreaga Bay, Malin and majestic hills to the south, making its much smaller sibling even more an implausible candidate as a site for noble habitation.

A desperate urge for absolute isolation becomes apparent when recollections of former sea levels are taken into consideration, stating that the rock was ‘insulated by every tide’, which no longer is the case. But despite not having to wait for the tide to recede, access to the summit of the rock still remains treacherous and not for the faint hearted. No obvious approach from the land/south side is visible, making going up a matter of navigating even the smallest of nooks and crannies.

Having managed surprisingly to reach the top, the little space available for anything left a worrying gap between the name of Castlestuke and what could be accommodated on something that small and would house only a cabin or hut, roughly 5 to 6 meters long and 2 to 3 meters wide.

The notions of a keep, never mind a castle, and two or more floors might be stretched with so little room left to build upon. A small rectangular hole occupies what seem to be the centre of the structure, approximately a meter in depth, less in width and slightly larger in length. Although its existence has been mentioned by Swan and Colhoun, no thoughts or elaborations have been made as to its purpose and this curious depression still escapes explanation why it was there or what it may have been used for. But whatever was built upon the rock is said to have been placed there on behalf of Feilimi Brasleach O Dochartaigh, the Lord of Carraig Bhrachai around 1600, to shelter his infant son from an outbreak of the smallpox.

Sadly his effort were in vain and the young boy died of the epidemic. Although taken by the heroic attempt of a father to save his son, this may not have been necessarily or exclusively the reason for erecting a structure on an isolated rock. Afterall, these were very troublesome times.

Henry Docwra had arrived via Lough Foyle in May 1600 and established an English garrison at Derry, ringing in the conquest of Inishowen. And despite the O’Dohertys paying tribute to the O’ Neills and O’ Donnells, both frequently raided Inishowen additionally, forcing Docwra to fortify it almost immediately in an attempt to prevent his precious hinterland larder getting constantly plundered of supplies and cattle.

But the people of Inishowen had already developed their own cunning ways to safe guard what was not due for taking.A conflict amongst the Irish over succession broke out in 1601 after the dead of Sean Og O Dochartaigh, Lord of Inishowen, leading Aodh Rua O Donaill, Lord of Tir Chonaill, to inaugurate Sean Og’s half brother Feilim Og as new chieftain, instead of Cathaoir Rua, Sean Og’s teenage son, much to the disagreement of local nobles.

Hostilities broke out, ending in a bloody battle, within sight of the castle at Carraig Bhrachai, on the sands of Pollan Bay, defeating the supporters of O Donaill and Cathaoir Rua O Dochartaigh became Inishowen’s tragic and last Gaelic chieftain.

And in 1603, according to the Annals of the Four Masters, ‘An intolerable famine prevailed all over Ireland.’

Considering the troublesome circumstances of this time, there may have been additional reasons to that of a father trying to protect his child for erecting a small building on a nearly inaccessible rock.